Chiang Khan Overview

Tucked behind the Mekong River north of Loei and west of Nong Khai, Chiang Khan is not to be missed. It offers the same beautiful scenery and slow afternoons as other border towns, but steps it up a notch with relative seclusion and spectacular guesthouses. Life remains fairly slow and isolated here along the meandering Mekong. With a soothing atmosphere and few sights to distract you, you’re free to kick back, enjoy the cultural enrichment, and rejuvenate.

Pak Chom and Loei serve as Chiang Khan’s connection to the rest of the world. Songthaew leave from Rte. 201. Wait opposite the Shell gas station, for songthaew going Loei (1hr., every 30min. 5:30am-5:30pm, 40฿). There is one direct bus to Pak Chom each day (1hr., 3:30pm, 40฿); otherwise, catch a bus to Loei and ask to get off at Ban Tat (20฿). From there, buses to Pak Chom leave more frequently (60฿). From Pak Chom, buses run infrequently to Nong Khai (#507, 2 per day 8am-3pm, 140฿) via Sangkhom (42฿) and Si Chiangmai (78฿). However, if your final destination is Nong Khai, you are better off traveling via Loei. A small orange office (☎086 011 2540), one block south of the market on Soi 9, sells tickets for buses to Bangkok (10-11hr.; A/C buses 6:30pm, 795฿; 2nd cl. 6:40pm, 398฿) via Loei (83฿).

Orientation And Practical Information 

Chiang Khan sits on a particularly stunning stretch of the Mekong River in Nothern Loei Province. It is 50km from Loei city, the provincial capital. The two main roads in Chiang Khan, parallel to each other and to the river, are Chai Khong Road, which is closer to the water, and Sri Chiang Khan Road, connected by Sois 0-28. Route 201 merges with Chiang Khan Rd. between Sois 6 and 7. Buses stop at a Shell petrol station on route 201, 500m south from this intersection. As of Summer 2008, a boardwalk is under construction along the river’s edge.

• Tours: Mekong Culture and Nature Tours, whose main office is 1.5km west of town on Sri Chiang Khan Rd. Runs biking, kayaking, hiking, and boat tours to nearby sights (including the rapids) and visits to small local farming villages. A smaller, but more convenient office (☎042 821 530), is located opposite Chiang Khan Guest House (see Accommodations, ) on Chaing Khong Rd., near Soi 19. Kayaking tours 1500฿ per person, bike tours 1000฿ per person; 4-person min. Open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm.
• Immigration office: (☎042 821 911), on Chai Khong Rd., at Soi 26. 30-day visa extension 1900฿. open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm.
• Bank: Krung Thai Bank ATM on the corner of Route 201 as it intersects with Sri Chiang Khan Rd. Open 24hr. Cirrus/MC/V.
• Police: (☎042 821 181), 300m east of the immigration office just off Chai Khong Rd., near Soi 28.
• Chiang Khan Hospital: 427 Sri Chiang Khan Rd. (☎042 821 101), across from Soi 25.
• Pharmacy: (☎042 822 351). On Soi 9 just before the market. Open daily 6am-8pm.
• Internet access: U.U Net, on Sri Chinag Khan Rd., near Soi 13. Internet 15฿ per hr. Open 8am-10pm.
• Post Office: Chiang Khan Post and Telegraph Office, 50 Chai Khong Rd. (☎042 821 011), on Soi 26, enter from Sri Chiang Khang Rd. as there are no signposts for sois greater than Soi 17 on Chai Khong Rd. International phone. Poste Restante. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm, Sa 9am-noon. Postal Code: 42110.

Accommodations 

For a small town with few noteworthy attractions, Chiang Khan has a surprising number of quality guesthouses.

• Loogmai Guest House, 112 Chai Khong Rd. Soi 5 (☎042 822 334), is modern and chic. The owner is an abstract artist and, together with his wife, has created one of the best designed guest houses in the northeast. There are only 3 rooms, but each one is spectacular. All rooms with fan. Small rooms 300฿; single room with private bath 400฿.
• Chiang Khan Guest House, 282 Chai Khong Rd. (☎042 821 691), between Sois 19 and 20, has homey, wooden rooms with shared bath. The friendly owner, Pim, speaks English and has loads of information about the surrounding area. For large groups, the guest house will whip up an all-you-can-eat feast (280฿) and can arrange live Isaan music and dance performances (2000฿). Pim is also happy to give you free cooking lessons. Bicycle rental 50฿ per day, motorbikes 200฿ per day. Doubles 200-300฿.
• Ton Khong Guest House, 299/3 Chai Khong Rd. Soi 10 (☎042 821 871), has small, snug rooms with fan and polished wooden floors. The rooms on the second floor with shared bathroom are considerably nicer. The downstairs restaurant serves excellent Thai food, including a number of vegetarian options. Dishes 40-80฿. Western breakfast 70-120฿. Bike rental 50฿ per day, motorbikes 200฿ per day. Singles 150฿, doubles 240-450฿.

Food

During the day, a small market with a few small food stalls opens up one block south of Sri Chiag Khan Rd. between Sois 9 and 10 (open 5am-8pm). Chiang Khan doesn’t have many restaurants, so choices are especially limited in the evening, when the market shuts down.

• Rabieng (☎042 821 251), on Chai Khong Rd. between Sois 9 and 10, churns out tasty Chinese food. Soup with minced pork 80฿. Dishes 70-90฿. Open daily 8am-10pm.
• Look Kochana, on Soi 9 (no English sign). Its pad thai (25฿) and morning glory vine in garlic bean sauce (50฿) satisfy even the pickiest taste buds. Open daily 7am-10pm.

Sights 

About 3km east of town, towards Nong Khai, a turnoff leads left to Kaeng Khut Khu Rapids, where picturesque rock piles interrupt the Mekong’s seaward journey. Follow the sign to Wat Thakhaek, and continue for 1km. A row of covered picnic areas are great for watching the rapids (Feb.-May). Songthaew (10฿) and tuk-tuks (round trip 50฿) leave from Chiang Khan Rd. On weekends, and occasionally during the week, vendors set up stalls selling local goods and cooking up fresh fish and shrimp dishes. Along the river by the Kaeng Khut Khu (Kaeng Kood Ku), the local specialty, kung den (tiny live shrimp that dance around your plate; about 40฿), and kung tot, the same shrimp but deep fried and crunchy, are especially popular. (Ferry service 30min., 400฿; 1hr., 700฿.)

The kayaking tours run by Mekong Culture and Nature Tours offer a more hands-on way to experience the rapids (see Practical Information, above). Trips can also head upstream to the Hueng River. They will often visit Phra Yai (Phu Khok Ngra), a 19m Buddha statue located on a 315m hill overlooking the Mekong, about 23km from Chiang Khan. Chiang Khan Guest House can arrange boat trips to both Kaeng Khut Khu (200-250฿ per person) and the Hueng River (900฿).

A convenient viewpoint for the Buddha statue at Phra Yai is at Phu Tok. About 3.5km in the direction of Nong Khai, 0.5km past the Wat Thakhaek turnoff, another turnoff leads right. Follow that narrow paved road for 3km until the road forks, then bear right. Before you go, make sure your bike’s brakes are in very good condition, as it is a steep descent.