Corsica (La Corse) Overview

Bathed in turquoise waters, Corsica was dubbed “Kallysté” (most beautiful) by the Greeks. Behind the island’s sun-drenched beaches, patches of scrubby underbrush give way to an endless, unspoiled landscape—nearly one-third of the island is protected nature reserve. Over 100 summits pierce a sky that refuses to rain 310 days of the year, and the rugged landscape makes the island ideal for hikers. Yet all this beauty comes at a price: budget hotels and restaurants are scarce and camping is often the best—if not the only—option.

Though development along the coast has brought a stream of young bikini-clad sun worshippers to the spectacular beaches and older fanny-packed retirees to the picturesque coastal towns, most of Corsica remains untouched. Despite centuries of invasion, it has managed to guard a unique culture that has its own language, cuisine, and customs. In the tiny mountain towns of this island paradise, life proceeds much as it has for hundreds of years. Goats and sheep wander lonely roads. Crumbling hilltop chapels ring with prayers sung in Corse, Corsica’s traditional dialect. Even well-trodden resort towns are marked by Genoese towers and bustling markets filled with fresh local produce.

Fiercely defensive of its independent identity, Corsica has long resisted foreign rule. The Corsicans controlled their island until the Genoese took over in 1284. Almost 500 years later, after the 40-year Corsican War of Independence, General Pasquale Paoli reclaimed the island and created a university, government, currency, and army. He also drafted the island’s—and the world’s—first modern constitution. Nevertheless, the 1768 Treaty of Versailles gave France’s Louis XV control of the island, and Corsica found itself divided between the nationalist Paolistes and the Populaires, who swore allegiance to France.

Today, the Front de Libération National de la Corse (FLNC) sporadically tries to bomb its way to independence, but most Corsicans deplore this sort of extremism. When President Nicolas Sarkozy, then interior minister, proposed increasing Corsican autonomy in July 2003, the referendum was defeated by a 2% margin—only 49% of Corsicans wanted increased autonomy from France. The island’s love-hate relationship with the mainland lives on.

Transportation

By Plane.  Air France and its partner Compagnie Corse Méditerranée (CCM) fly to Ajaccio, Bastia, and Calvi from Marseille, Nice, and Paris. In Ajaccio, the Air France/CCM office is at 3 bd. du Roi Jérôme (☎36 54 or 08 20 82 08 20). Hunting around can yield significant savings; ask at a budget travel agency in France.

By Boat. Ferry travel between the mainland and Corsica can be rough, and it’s not always cheaper than plane travel. High-speed ferries (3hr.) run between Nice and Corsica. Overnight ferries from Toulon and Marseille take over 10hr. The Société National Maritime Corse Méditerranée ( SNCM; ☎08 91 70 18 01; www.sncm.fr) sends ferries from Marseille (€40-58, under 25 €25-45), Nice (€35-47, under 25 €20-35), and Toulon (€40-58, under 25 €25-45) to Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi, and Île Rousse. It costs €40-305 to take a car, depending on the day and the type of car. In July and August, nine boats travel between Corsica and the mainland, though only three make the trip the rest of the year. The fastest boats (Navires à Grande Vitesse) leave from Nice and head to Ajaccio, Calvi, and Île Rousse, crossing in nearly a third of the time. Corsica Ferries (☎08 25 09 50 95; www.corsicaferries.com) has high-speed ferries with similar destinations and prices. SAREMAR (☎04 95 73 00 96; fax 04 95 73 13 37) and Moby Lines (☎04 95 73 00 29; fax 04 95 73 05 50) run from Santa Teresa on Sardinia to Bonifacio (2-5 per day depending on the season; €14-15 per person, €26-52 per car). Moby Lines (€15-28) and Corsica Ferries (€16-32) cross from Genoa and Livorno in Italy to Bastia.

By Wheel And Rail. Rumor has it that the Marquis de Sade and Machiavelli collaborated on the design of Corsica’s transportation system. Train service is slow, limited to the half of the island north of Ajaccio, and doesn’t accept mainland rail passes, though a €48 Zoom pass allows for seven consecutive days of travel. Check www.ter-sncf.com for more info. Buses serve the island, but be prepared for winding roads. If roller coasters aren’t your thing, bring some motion sickness medicine. Call Eurocorse Voyages (☎04 95 21 06 30) for info.

By Foot.  Hiking is an excellent way to explore Corsica. Randonnées (hikes) exist all over the island, with panoramas of everything from the mountainous interior to the rocky coastline. Campsites, refuges, and an active backpacking culture ensure that hikers feel at home in Corsica. The longest marked route, the GR20, is a difficult 180km, 12- to 15-day trail that takes hard-core hikers across the island from Calenzana (southeast of Calvi) to Conca (northeast of Porto-Vecchio). The GR20 requires excellent physical fitness but rewards hikers with an unparalleled sampling of Corsica’s scenery. Do not tackle this trail alone and be prepared for cold, snowy weather even in early summer. For a shorter, less challenging route, try the popular Mare e Monti, a seven- to 10-day trail from Calenzana to Cargèse that passes through the pristine Aitone Forest and the breathtaking Gorges de Spelunca. The easier Da Mare a Mare Sud crosses the southern part of the island between Porto-Vecchio and Propriano (4-6 days), leading hikers through green countryside and past prehistoric remains at Filitosa. Its northern equivalent, the Mare a Mare Nord, is a 12-day trek from Moriani to Cargèse that passes through the university town of Corte before traversing the Tavignanu and Restonica river valleys. The Mare a Mare Centre transects the middle of the island from Ghisonaccia to Porticcio and can be completed in seven days. Though easier than the GR20, this trail requires advance preparation and is best enjoyed in autumn and spring. All major trails are administered by the Parc Naturel Régional de la Corse, 2 Sargent Casalonga, Ajaccio (☎04 95 51 79 00; www.parc-naturel-corse.com), whose jurisdiction encompasses most of the Corsican heartland. For any route, a topo-guide is essential (€14-15; available for purchase by fax, by email, over the phone, or at a Parc Naturel office). The guide includes trail maps, gîte and refuge listings, and other important practical info. Prospective GR20 trekkers should consider buying Le Grand Chemin (€15), a more complete guide that includes elevations and sources of potable water. For more info, contact the Parc Naturel office.

Accommodations

Agence du Tourisme de la Corse, 17 bd. du Roi Jérôme, Ajaccio (☎04 95 51 00 00; www.visit-corsica.com), publishes free guides to Corsica’s accommodations, available at tourist offices. Corsica’s few budget hotels fill weeks ahead in summer, and it can be nearly impossible to find a room in August. Camping is a great choice all over the island. Nearly every city, small town, or half-forgotten village offers at least one spot to pitch a tent, although many sites tend to be located away from the centre-ville. Don’t forget to bring your own toilet paper and other amenities when camping, as most sites do not provide them and may be located far from the local tabac or supermarket. Resist the urge to set up camp on that stunning mountain ledge: unofficial camping is not only dangerous but also strictly banned and will be met with severe fines. Refuges (mountain huts) provide trail-side shelter and camping.