Hovering amid the Cordillera Central ’s sloping green hills, Ciudad Quesada (a.k.a. San Carlos) marks the fusion of the campo tico with everyday small-city life. Campesinos stroll along modern, freshly paved streets, and vendors hawk overflowing crates of ripe fruit beside seemingly endless clothing stores. At the center of town is the gorgeous parque, filled with lush trees, dotted by pink park benches, and anchored by a large concrete gazebo. Cattle is an integral part of the food and culture here. The agriculture and ranching center of the north, Ciudad Quesada pumps out much of the country’s beef and milk. It also serves as a major saddlery center; locals make traditional, detailed leatherwork in the talabarterías (leather goods stores) around town. Northwest of San José (110km), the city is also a transportation hub within the Alajuela province. Travelers connect here to nearby Fortuna and Volcán Arenal (40km), as well as to Los Chiles and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí.
The city’s bus station (☎2460 5064), referred to as Parada Nueva or El Terminal, is northwest of town in the Plaza mall center. A shuttle bus leaves every 15min. from the mercado, 100m north of the northeast corner of the parque, to the terminal’s side for ¢170. From the station, catch buses to: La Fortuna (1hr., 14 per day 5:30am-8pm, ¢560); Los Chiles (3hr., 9 per day 4:30am-6pm, ¢1955); Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (3hr., 10 per day 4:50am-5:30pm, ¢765); San José (3hr.; regular service 11 per day 6:05am-7:15pm; direct service express approx. every hr. 6:40am-8pm; ¢1275); San Miguel (1hr., 6 per day 4:50am-8pm, ¢485). Taxis line up on the north side of the parque. Adobe Rent-A-Car, 300m north of the northeast corner of the parque. (☎2460 0650; fax 2461 0202. Must be 23+ to rent. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9am-noon.)
Ciudad Quesada/San Carlos has street names, but it will be hard to find any. Instead, locals go by units of 100m ( cuadras, approximately one block) up, down, right, and left, radiating out from the four corners of the Parque Central. A cream-colored cathedral borders the parque to the east. The streets go uphill to the south (subiendo) and downhill to the north (bajando) .
Ciudad Quesada is filled with small hotels, most offering simple, safe accommodations for a mainly tico clientele. Fortunately, most of them are clustered within walking distance of the parque and other key destinations in the city.
Lomito (steak) is what’s for dinner in Ciudad Quesada. Even the humblest soda serves high-quality steak, and most of the restaurants around the parque can marinate a steak to perfection. Most of the beef and chicken served in the city comes from the ranches that surround it, making dining here fresh and cheap. Vegetarians will have a harder time eating out in Ciudad Quesada, but most sodas and restaurants have options with beans or cheese; just be sure to ask. Super Granda (☎2460 0703) supermarket, opposite the northeast corner of the parque, can fulfill your grocery needs. (Open daily 7am-midnight. MC/V.)
Tel Zoológico La Marina. In 1957, a dairy farmer with a passion for wildlife started taking in abused, sick, or otherwise endangered wild animals from individuals, the government, circuses, and other places. Doña Alba’s “hobby” turned public in 1989, when it became too expensive for her to run alone. Today, Dona Alba’s son and his family run El Zoológico la Marina, an impressive zoo/park/preserve where 550 animals, including jaguars, elastic-nosed tapirs, toucans, crocodiles, and spider monkeys are sheltered and gradually rehabilitated; the He sido liberado (I have been freed) signs posted on vacant cages attest to the success of the staff’s efforts (about 200 animals are reintroduced into the wild each year). The park is world renowned for being the first zoo to successfully reproduce Baird’s tapirs in captivity; this recognition has brought several international donations, including African lions and ostriches. Fences are so minimal that you’ll feel like you’re inside the habitats—close enough to feel the heat of a full-grown jaguar’s breath. There are also opportunities for volunteers to participate in feeding the animals, cleaning their habitats, and helping build new enclosures. The museum can help arrange homestays; call or email for more details. (Take any bus heading north from the terminal toward Aguas Zarcas, Pital, Venecia, Río Frío, etc., and ask to be let out at the Zoológico La Marina. 35min., ¢160. ☎2474 2202; www.zoocostarica.com. Open daily 8am-4pm. Adults US$8, children US$5.)
Thermal Pools. The volcanic activity in the area around Ciudad Quesada, especially to the north, has created a number of natural thermal pools that make for safe, sumptuous bathing. Though there are no public pools in the vicinity of Ciudad Quesada, there are various options for accessing the privately owned pools. One of the best ways to lounge in the hot mineral water is also the cheapest. At El Tucanito, a soda about 3km south of La Marina, you can enjoy the termas for a whole day. A scenic, winding trail leads 1km from the entrance to a hot-water Fountain of Eternal Youth surrounded by forest. (Termas open daily 8am-4pm. ¢1500) Stop for lunch at the soda, which serves fajitas (¢1500) and cordon bleu of chicken, beef, pork, or fish for ¢1000-2000. (☎2460 7850. Karaoke Th, F, Sa, 7pm-1am. Open daily 11am-1am.) For an even more luxurious experience, walk 1km south to the beautiful Termales del Bosque, owned and maintained by a hotel of the same name. Follow the trail 1km from reception, where you can enjoy eight connected blue pools of different temperatures for ¢5000. (☎2460 4740; www.termalesdelbosque.com. Guard 24hr. Open daily 8:30am-9:30pm.)
Leather. For some leather of the north, check out Talabartería y Souvenirs La Ranita, 150m south of the southeast corner of the parque (}/fax 2460 4980; open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-4pm) , or Talabartería Jesús Hidalgo, 200m north and 25m east of the northeast corner of the parque, which specializes in handcrafted belts and saddles. (☎2460 2458. Open M-Sa 7am-6pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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