During the Middle Ages, Clermont-Ferrand (clare-mohn-fur-rahn; pop. 141,000) existed as rival cities—Clermont and Montferrand—until Louis XIII merged them in 1630. Clermont got a better deal: the allegedly “combined” city’s walls excluded Montferrand. Now the outcast city is nearly forgotten while its illustrious twin has become a lively urban center. During the 20th century, red-roofed Clermont became synonymous with Michelin tires (rubber was first used in bike tires here) and the revered Red and Green Guides, thanks to brothers André and Édouard Michelin. Today, Clermont-Ferrand is a true college town, home to two major universities, nearly 35,000 students, and the comic shops, kebab stands, and tattoo parlors that so often accompany them. While the city itself provides ample entertainment for a short stay, it also makes a perfect base for trips to the surrounding mountains.
Clermont-Ferrand’s centre-ville is in Clermont, between place Delille and place de Jaude. Pick up a map at the information desk in the train station, which is a 15min. walk from the centre-ville. Buses #2, 4, and 14 run from the station to pl. de Jaude. Several restaurants, a movie theater, and the monstrous shopping complex Centre Jaude surround the place, while boutiques, the famous cathedral, and bookstores line the streets of the vieille ville. From the station, turn left onto av. de l’Union Soviétique, left again onto bd. Fleury, and a quick right onto av. Carnot. Continue through several name changes to pl. de Jaude.
Clermont-Ferrand’s Michelin brothers may have created the most influential French restaurant guide to compensate for a hometown not known for its cuisine. College hangouts are tucked into side streets in the centre-ville, fast-food joints cluster on avenue des États-Unis, and a few brasseries surround the tourist office and cathedral. A Champion supermarket takes up much of rue Giscard de la Tour Fondue, past pl. de Jaude. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-8:30pm, Su 9am-12:30pm. MC/V.) Off pl. Gaillard, the Marché Couvert/Espace Saint-Pierre stocks local produce, cheese, and meats. (Open M 7am-7pm, Tu-Sa 7am-7:30pm.)
Clermont’s vieille ville, called the Ville Noire (Black City) for its many black-stoned buildings, features architecture from the Middle Ages, the Belle Époque, and modern times. Tiny Montferrand doesn’t boast much in the way of attractions, but it does feature some well-preserved half-timbered houses, medieval mansions, and a church built of volcanic rock. A combined €6.50 ticket allows entry into any two of the city’s four museums. Most museums are free for students and those under 18 and free for everyone on the first Sunday of the month. The best sights, however, lie in the surrounding mountains. To reach Montferrand (a 40min. walk up av. de la République), take the Clermont tourist office’s French walking tour or tram line A (dir.: Champratel).
Cathédrale Notre-Dame-De-L’Assomption. First built in AD 450 and later completely reconstructed in Gothic style between 1248 and 1295, this magnificent cathedral rises high above the surrounding buildings and remains a presence wherever you are in the city. Tiny bubbles in the black volcanic stone used in construction made it much lighter, allowing the church’s spires to soar to 100m. The combination of the cathedral’s gargoyle-covered Gothic exterior, towering height, and jet-black color make the building seem more like an evil citadel than a house of God. Climb up the 252-step tower for unrivaled views of Clermont-Ferrand and a closer look at the gargoyles and flying buttresses. (Pl. de la Victoire. www.catholique-clermont.cef.fr. Open M-Sa 8am-noon and 2-6pm, Su 9:30am-noon and 3-7pm. Tower open M-Sa 10am-noon and 2-6pm, Su 3-6pm. €1.50.)
Basilique De Notre Dame Du Port. This 12th-century church, near the site where Pope Urban II allegedly started the First Crusade, was built in Auvergnat Romanesque style. In May, pilgrims come to see the Black Virgin icon. (Pl. Notre Dame du Port. ☎04 73 91 32 94. Open daily 8am-7pm. Tours in French July-Aug. W and F 3pm.)
Parc De Montjuzet. This immaculately groomed park covers a hill located high above Clermont, offering panoramic views of the city and its surrounding mountains, including Puy-de-Dôme, which are only bested by those from the cathedral’s tower. The Mediterranean garden—one of the park’s highlights—seems to be taken straight out of a Van Gogh landscape. The rest of the park features shaded paths, contemporary sculptures, and various playgrounds, making it a perfect spot for people of all ages to enjoy a picnic or afternoon stroll. (Northwest of the main city. Main entrance and parking on rue du Parc de Montjuzet; secondary pedestrian entrance closer to the vieille ville on rue des Aubepines. A 15min. walk from the cathedral; ask at the tourist office for directions. ☎04 73 42 63 63. Open 7am-8pm.)
Musée D’Archéologie Bargoin. Prehistoric skeletons and North African textiles take a back seat to this small museum’s rich collection of Gallo-Roman artifacts. What the array of artifacts lacks in size it makes up for in variety; figurines, glassware, mosaics, sculptures, and relics of Puy-de-Dôme’s Temple of Mercury are just some of the items on display. (45 rue Ballainvilliers. ☎04 73 42 69 70. Open Tu-Sa 10am-noon and 1-5pm, Su 2-7pm. €4.20, students €2.70, under 18 free.)
Pool tables and cheap beer are the main attractions at bars across from the train station. Check out the Guide de l’Étudiant Clermont-Ferrand (available at the tourist office) for complete bar listings.
Although Puy-de-Dôme is only 12km from Clermont-Ferrand, getting there takes planning. A shuttle circulates 3 times per day from the Clermont train station to the summit and 4 times per day to the Vulcania. (☎0800 50 05 24. 35min.; July-Aug. daily, Sept. and May-June Sa-Su and holidays; round-trip €5, students and under 16 €2.50. Includes connecting shuttles to Vulcania.) Cyclists allowed on mountain July-Aug. daily 10am-6pm; Sept.-Oct. and May-June Sa-Su and holidays 10am-6pm. Drivers pay a €6 toll, leave cars at the base, and take a bus to the top (last bus descends 6pm, round-trip €4). Limited free parking at base and summit.
Clermont-Ferrand’s greatest attraction may be its proximity to extinct volcanoes, crater lakes, and mountains. Puy-de-Dôme (pwee-duh-dohm), the mountain dominating the region’s middle, is part of the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne (☎04 73 65 64 00). Hikers, bikers, and skiers enjoy the unspoiled terrain of one of France’s largest parks. A hiking guide is available at the Clermont-Ferrand tourist office. There are three main sections in the protected area: the Mont-Dore, the Monts du Cantal, and the Monts Dômes.
On a clear day, the sweeping view from flat-topped Puy-de-Dôme (1465m) encompasses the rest of the Chaîne des Puys, a lush ridge of extinct volcanoes. The scenery in late autumn can be particularly spectacular, as a sea of clouds often obscures the plains below so that only isolated peaks protrude into the sky. The ruins of the Roman Temple de Mercure, from the first and second centuries, sit on the summit. Parapente (paragliding) is quite popular on the summit. (Paragliding flights daily 10am-sunset, depending on weather. Contact the Puy-de-Dôme paragliding director, ☎06 08 32 08 46, for information on hours and weather conditions. €70 per flight. Cash only. Puy-de-Dôme open July-Aug. daily 10am-9pm; Sept.-June hours depend on daylight.) Call ahead (☎04 73 62 12 18) to see if the road to the top is open.
Hikers can take the navette to the base of the mountain and make the 45min. ascent up the chemin des Muletiers, a path that climbs 350m vertically before reaching the summit. Though tiring, the hike is reasonable for most. If you miss the navette, a longer hike is necessary: take bus #14 to Royat from the stop at pl. Allard. From there, take D68 to reach the first yellow markers that guide the rest of the wide, graveled, 3hr. hike along the PR Chamina to the summit. The hike from Royat is approximately 10km, mostly uphill. Buy the IGN Chaîne des Puys map and listen to the weather forecast for the day; conditions change rapidly, affecting access to the summit, guided tours, and paragliding.
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