Collioure Overview

Located where the vineyards and orchards of the Pyrenees meet the blue-green waters of the Mediterranean, Collioure (koh-lee-ohr; pop. 2930) is truly an oasis. Once the prize of Greeks and Phoenicians, the town’s rocky harbor became one of Matisse’s favorite subjects; artists like Dalí, Dérain, Dufy, and Picasso soon set up their easels as well. Though the artistic avant-garde no longer populates the town, numerous art galleries are housed under its copper roofs. Outside the art world, tourists lie on the pebbly beaches or walk around the harbor to enjoy the evening light play on the stones of the Grand Palais.

• Trains: At the top of av. Aristide Maillol (☎04 68 82 05 89). Ticket office and info desk open daily July-Aug. 6:30am-9pm; Sept.-June 9am-1pm and 2:40-5:45pm. To Perpignan (20min., 13 per day, €4.90) and Barcelona, ESP (4-5hr., 3 per day, €23) via Port Bou (30min., 6 per day, €3.10).
• Buses: Leave from carrefour du Christ, at the intersection of av. du Général de Gaulle, route d’Argelès, and rue de la République. Les Courriers Catalans (☎04 68 35 29 02) travels to nearby towns and Perpignan (45min.; 5 per day; €6.60, free with regional bus pass).
• Taxis: Allo Almaya (☎04 68 82 09 30).
• Bike Rental: X-Trem Bike, 5 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne (July-Aug. ☎04 68 82 59 77, Sept.-June 06 23 01 93 01). €10 per ½-day, €18 per day, €85 per week; €200 deposit. Open daily 8:30am-12:30pm, 1:30-2:30pm, 6-7pm. MC/V.

Practical Information

• Tourist Office: Pl. du 18 Juin (☎04 68 82 15 47; www.collioure.com). From the train station, walk downhill on av. Aristide Maillol to pl. du Maréchal Leclerc. Continue along the canal, then take a left at pl. du 18 Juin. From the Christ bus stop, walk downhill along rue de la République. After crossing the canal, turn right on av. Camille Pelletan and left at pl. du 18 Juin. Free maps and a guide (€5.50) to 1-7hr. regional hikes. Open July-Aug. daily 9am-8pm; Sept. and June M and Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm, Tu-F 9am-noon and 2-7pm, Sa 9am-noon; Oct.-May M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm.
• Tours: Petit train, pl. du 8 Mai 1945 (☎04 68 98 02 06; www.petit-train-touristique.com), across from the post office. 45min. tour of the vineyards up to Fort St-Elme and Port-Vendres. Departures every hr. July-Aug. 10am-8pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June 10-11am and 2-6pm. €6.50, under 12 €4.50.
• Laundromat: 28 rue de la République (☎04 68 98 04 17). Wash €4.20-8, dry €0.50 per 5min. Open daily 8am-9pm.
• Police: Rue de la République (☎04 68 82 09 53).
• Pharmacy: 7 rue de la République. Open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 3-7:30pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm.
• Internet Access: Café Sola, 2 av. de la République (☎04 68 82 55 02). €5 per hr., €7 per 2hr. Free Wi-Fi with purchase of food or drink. Open daily 7am-2am.
• Post Office: Pl. du 8 Mai 1945 (☎04 68 98 36 00). ATM and currency exchange available. Open M-F 9am-noon and 1:30-5pm, Sa 9am-noon. Postal Code: 66190.

Accommodations 

Collioure fills its hotels and beaches to the brim during July and August; the cheapest rooms are €30-40. The best choice is to daytrip from Perpignan.

• Hôtel Le St-Pierre, 16 av. du Général de Gaulle (☎04 68 82 19 50; hotel.saint-pierre@wanadoo.fr). From the train station, follow av. Aristide Maillol to pl. du Maréchal Leclerc and turn right onto the bridge. At the rotary, take a left onto av. du Général de Gaulle. Some rooms with balconies and A/C. Breakfast €5.50. Doubles with sink and toilet or shower €40, with toilet and shower €48-56; triples €50; quints €86. AmEx/MC/V.
• Chambres, 20 rue Pasteur (☎04 68 82 15 31), in the centre-ville. Essentially a gîte. Rooms arranged around a staircase; all with double beds and baths. Singles €32; doubles €40, with shower €43, with bath €45; triples and quads €65-72. Cash only.

Food

Local produce is sold at a market centered on place du Maréchal Leclerc and along the canal toward the Château Royal. (Open W and Su 9am-1pm.) Touristy crêperies, pizzerias, and cafes crowd rue Saint-Vincent near the port. There’s a Shopi supermarket at 16 av. de la République. (☎04 68 82 26 04. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 8:15am-8pm; Sept.-June M-Sa 8:15am-1pm and 2:30-7:30pm. MC/V.)

• Al Cantou Pizza, 19 rue Pasteur (☎04 68 82 27 79). Delicious takeout wood-oven pizzas €5-10. Open M-W and F-Su 11am-2pm and 6-10pm. Cash only.
• La Cuisine Comptoir, 2 rue Colbert (☎04 68 81 14 40). Delicious combinations to go. Cumin-spiced chickpeas and cold basil-chicken salad can contribute to an alfresco meal. Tapas by weight; a selection of 3-4 €15-20. Open daily 11am-6pm. MC/V.

Sights And Festivals 

In mid-August, the streets of Collioure fill with traditional dance and music for the Festival de Saint-Vincent. Midway through the folklore festival, a corrida (bullfight) at the arena is followed by a fireworks display over the sea. Every Friday at 9:30pm in July and August, Collioure rocks to the sounds of Vendredis du Jazz. Jazz concerts take place in the castle and throughout the streets near the harbor. Contact the tourist office for all festival info.

Église Notre Dame Des Anges. This architectural wonder, whose foundations lie deep in the Mediterranean, includes richly decorated side chapels and a monumental Baroque main altar. (Open daily 9am-noon and 2-6pm. Free.)

Château Royal. Extending from pl. du 8 Mai 1945 to the port, the hulking white stone Château Royal first sheltered the Majorcan kings in the 13th century and was later fortified by both French and Spanish kings during unending border wars. Every architectural element—from the shape of the towers to the design of the ramparts—was designed to guarantee the utmost protection. The château is worth a visit for its spooky underground tunnels and spectacular view of the harbor. In summer, the main courtyard hosts plays and occasional dance performances. (☎04 68 82 06 43; www.cg66.fr. Open daily July-Aug. 10am-7pm; Sept. and June 10am-6pm; Oct.-May 9am-5pm. 1hr. tours in French available with reservation. €4, students and ages 12-18 €2, under 12 free.)

Chemin Du Fauvisme. This trail retraces the steps of Matisse and Dérain. Masterpiece reproductions are displayed exactly where they were originally painted. The chemin begins and ends in front of the tourist office, where the staff distributes free maps and sells a catalogue with detailed descriptions and images of every stop. (Guided tours available in French July-Aug. Th 3pm. €5.50.)

Les Anchois Roque. Stop by this store for a taste of the harbor. Visitors watch anchovies being prepared and taste a series of the tiny fish preserved in vinegar and flavored with Catalan sauce and Provençal herbs. (17 route d’Argelès, on the corner of av. du Général de Gaulle. ☎04 68 82 04 99. Store open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa-Su 8am-noon and 2-7pm. Anchovies €8.90 per 350g. Free visit and dégustation for groups.)

Outdoor Activities

The Centre International de Plongée, 15 rue de la Tour d’Auvergne, offers scuba lessons and rents underwater equipment. (☎04 68 82 07 16; www.cip-collioure.com. Beginners over age 7 €39 for the 1st dive and lesson; 2nd lesson in ocean €49; 2 lessons €79. 8-session course July-Aug. €295; over 11 only. €25 per dive with scuba card, €35 per dive with scuba card and guide. Snorkeling €23. Open July-Sept. M-Sa 10am-noon and 3-6pm, Su 10:30am-noon and 5:30-7pm; Oct.-Dec. and Apr.-June M-Sa 10am-noon and 3-6pm. MC/V.)