Connemara, a thinly populated region of northwest Co. Galway, extends a lacy net of inlets and islands into the Atlantic Ocean. Rough inland mountains, desolate stretches of bog, rocky offshore islands, and a dramatic coastline are among Ireland’s most arresting and peculiar scenery. Driving west from Galway City, the relatively tame and developed coastal strip stretching to Rossaveal suddenly gives way to the fishing villages of Roundstone and Kilkieran, with beautiful beaches, frisky wildlife, and constantly changing weather. Farther west, Clifden, Connemara’s largest town, offers the most tourist services in the region. Ancient bogs spread between the coast and the rock-studded green slopes of the two major mountain ranges, the Twelve Bens and the Maumturks. Northeast of the Maumturks is Joyce Country, named for a long-settled Connemara clan. Ireland’s largest gaeltacht also stretches along the Connemara coastline, and Irish-language radio (Radio na Gaeltachta) broadcasts from Costelloe. Connemara National Park gives a useful introduction to the region’s bogs and wildlife.
Cycling is a particularly rewarding way to absorb the region. The 96km routes from Galway to Clifden (via Cong) and Galway to Letterfrack are popular despite challenging dips and curves toward their ends. The seaside route through Inverin and Roundstone to Galway is another option. In general, the dozens of loops and backroads in north Connemara make for worthwhile riding. Hiking through the boglands and along the coastal routes is also popular—the Western Way footpath offers dazzling views as it winds 50km from Oughterard to Leenane through the Maumturks. A word of caution for those traveling outdoors: beware the midges. These mayflies are out in full force during summer. Buses serve the main road from Galway to Westport, stopping in Clifden, Oughterard, Cong, and Leenane. N59 from Galway to Clifden is the main thoroughfare; R336, R340, and R341 make more elaborate coastal loops. Hitchers report that locals are likely to stop; Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking. If all else fails, Connemara through the windows of a tour bus (see Galway) is better than no Connemara at all.
Roundstone is a one-street fishing village that, like many of its neighbors along Coast Rd., would do well in a quaint little Irish town contest. In the distance beyond the bay, a few prominent Bens ...more
Inishturk (pop. 90), a small, rounded peak rising 182m out of the ocean between Inishbofin and Clare Island, has more spectacular walks and views than either of its more populated neighbors. Lobstering ...more
Perched at the crossroads of N59 and the Rinvyle road, Letterfrack compensates for its lack of size with its bevy of exciting sights and attractions. Three pubs and a legendary hostel line the town’s ...more
Connemara National Park occupies 2100 hectares of mountainous countryside and is home to a number of curious attractions, including hare runs and roseroot. The park’s not-quite-solid terrain comprises ...more
Farther east along N59, Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only fjord, slices through coastal mountains and continues inland to the wilderness outpost of Leenane (pop. 47). Wrapped in the skirts of the Devilsmother ...more
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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