Welcome to the Nullarbor—a treeless plain running from the town of Nullarbor west into Western Australia, before ending at Norseman. The Nullarbor could contain England, the Netherlands, Belgium, and Switzerland with 7000 sq. km to spare, and crossing the Nullarbor remains a badge of pride for visitors who are traversing Australia. Commemorative crossing certificates are available for free at tourist offices at either end of the journey.
The main road, Hwy. 1, sees fairly significant traffic compared to the empty stretches up north, so it’s rarely more than 100km between roadhouses, but repair facilities are few and far between. Additionally, this is a road train route (see Australian Road Hazards), so drivers should brace for turbulence from passing trucks. See Driving in the Outback, before setting off.
Visitors crossing from Western Australia to South Australia or vice versa must pass through agricultural roadblocks where any organic matter will be confiscated. The roadblocks are located at Border Village (☎08 9039 3277), for those heading west, and Ceduna, for those heading east (☎08 8625 2108). Roadhouses and practical information for crossing the Nullarbor are listed below, as well as points of interest. Within each section, listings are from east to west.
Practical Information And Transportation. Most of the roadhouses along the way accept major credit cards. Police are located in Penong (☎08 8625 1006) and Ceduna (☎08 8626 2020). In case of emergency, dial ☎000. Cellular phones do not work anywhere on the Nullarbor; Ceduna is your last hope for even so-so reception. The highly regarded Nullarbor Traveller is a backpacker-oriented camping trip that runs from Perth to Adelaide. Travelers snorkel, whale watch, explore caves, and camp under the stars. For those with the cash and the time, this is the way to cross in style. Tour prices include accommodations, activities, and meals. (☎08 8687 0455; www.thetraveller.net.au. 10-day Adelaide to Perth tour $1450, VIP/YHA/NOMADS $1350; 9-day Perth to Adelaide $1295/1195. Itineraries vary based on the point of departure.)
Accommodations. Roadhouses are relatively frequent on the Eyre Highway and generally provide food, fuel, and accommodations. The first roadhouse coming from Ceduna, 78km west of Penong, is Nundroo Hotel Motel and Caravan Park . (☎08 8625 6120. Reception daily 7:30am-11pm. Sites for 2 $8, powered $18; backpacker beds $10 per person; motel doubles $90, extra person $12.50.) From Nullarbor, it’s 188km to Border Village , where there are cheap accommodations and a chance to pay your respects to the enormous fiberglass kangaroo, Rooey II (☎08 9039 3474).
Penong And Cactus Beach. Penong, 75km west of Ceduna, is the gateway to South Australia’s most famous surf— Cactus Beach. To reach the beach, follow signs for Point Sinclair 21km south down an unsealed but 2WD-passable road; wood-carved signs stating simply “To Beach” lead to Cactus, where you can watch top-notch surfers. The beach has bush camping has proper rooms. (☎08 8625 1050. Singles $33; doubles $44.)
Fowler’S Bay. With massive sand dunes, a fishing jetty, and a population of 10, Fowler’s Bay is one of the best-kept secrets on the Eyre Hwy. From the highway, the 21km turnoff for Fowler’s Bay is 33km east of Nundroo. The town’s sand dunes provide excellent sandboarding and 4WD tracks, and Back Beach, on the other side of the dunes, has great swimming. The town has a caravan park (☎08 8625 6143. Office open 8:30am-6:30pm. Unpowered for 2 $19; powered for 2 $25; extra person $5. Takeaway food available, as well as meager grocery options.) Fowler’s Bay also has a general store and petrol.
The Nullarbor Plain. The largest single block of limestone in the world, the plain encompasses over 250,000 sq. km in total and was formed around the same time that Australia broke away from Antarctica—about 50 million years ago. For today’s visitors, this means a long stretch of jagged cliffs looking out over the Great Australian Bight. The intrepid traveler can veer off the highway on any one of a number of unsealed roads and arrive at what is sure to feel like the end of the Earth, with land meeting water in a stark boundary stretching to all horizons—keep an eye out for whales.
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