Current Politics. September 1997 brought a victory for nationalists when Scottish voters supported devolution by an overwhelming three-to-one margin. The first elections for the new Scottish Parliament in 1999 inaugurated a Labour-Liberal Democrat coalition and the SNP in the position of primary opposition. Although Scotland has a new Parliament house at Holyrood, Edinburgh , it is still represented in the United Kingdom’s House of Commons. The precise nature of Scotland’s constitutional relationship with England remains disputed, as Scottish politicians debate whether to seek incremental or immediate independence from Parliament. On the one hand, the mention of Bannockburn still stirs nationalist feeling among Scots, and the main unionist party languishes in obscurity in the Scottish Parliament. On the other, many Scottish politicians remain more closely tied to London than to their own constituents.
What’S Happenin’. Out of its post-industrial ruins, Glasgow began a cultural revitalization in the late 80s that continues today. Edinburgh , long a magnet for cultural events, has recently seen its 61-year-old International Festival (and attendant events like the Fringe Festival) make headlines around the world. Edinburgh’s festivals peak during August but fuel the economy year-round, generating millions of pounds and thousands of jobs.
Cultural tourism draws droves of heritage-seekers and Celtic devotees to the country each summer. Although industrial trades still constitute Scotland’s largest workforce, tourism employs more people than any other field in holiday spots like the Highlands and islands. On July 5, 1996, Dolly the sheep—the first mammal to be cloned from an adult cell—was “born” in the labs of the Roslin Institute. Scotland also produces a large portion of the superconductors in the UK, earning central Scotland the nickname “Silicon Glen.” In March 2006, the Scottish government implemented a smoking ban in enclosed public places, despite substantial opposition from Scottish citizens. The rest of Britain followed Scotland’s lead in July 2007.
Scotland’s cold, drizzling skies loom over some of the warmest people on earth. Life is generally slower outside the densely populated belt running between Glasgow and Edinburgh, and etiquette is somewhat less important here than in London’s urban sprawl. But this is no reason to forget your manners. Hospitality and conversation are highly valued, and most Scots will welcome you with geniality (unless you call them English). In parts of the Highlands, nationalism runs deep and strong. Here, using the technically correct “British” will win you no friends. Religion and football, and the religion of football, are topics best left untouched if you’re not prepared to defend yourself—verbally and otherwise.
A Word About Kilts. Although it’s unlikely you’ll see very many during your travels, the kilt is not a purely romanticized concept. Criminalized as Highland garb after the Jacobite rebellion, kilts were revived during the mid-19th-century nostalgia for Highland culture. Tartan plaids originally denoted the geographic base of the weaver. Today, few Scots still wear their family tartan, although many do own one for use at formal gatherings and sporting events.
The early Picts left behind almost no record of their language, but settlers in southern Scotland transported their native tongues—Gaelic from Ireland, Norse from Scandinavia, and an early form of English (Inglis) from northern England. By the 11th century, Scottish Gaelic (pronounced GAL-ick; Irish Gaelic is GAYL-ick) had become the official language of Scottish law. As southern Scotland expanded and spread its political influence, Gaelic speakers migrated to the Highlands. Inglis, a dialect of English now called Scots, became the language of the Lowlands and the monarchy.
While a number of post-1700 Scottish literati, most notably Robert Burns and the 20th-century poet Hugh MacDiarmid, have written in Scots, union with England led to the rise of the English language in Scotland. Today, standard English is spoken throughout Scotland, but with a strong Scots influence. In the Highlands, for example, “ch” often becomes a soft “h.” Modern Scottish Gaelic, a linguistic cousin of modern Irish, is spoken by approximately 60,000 people in Scotland, particularly in the western islands. Recent attempts to revive Gaelic have led to its introduction in the classroom and even on street signs in the Hebrides. (For a glossary of Scottish Gaelic and Scots words and phrases, see the Appendix.)
In a nation where stories have long been recounted by fireside, oral literature is as much a part of the literary tradition as novels. Unfortunately, most medieval Scottish manuscripts were lost in raids on monastic centers of learning, effectively erasing pre-14th-century records. John Barbour is the best-known writer in Early Scots. His epic poem, The Brus (c. 1375), preceded Chaucer and favorably chronicled the life of Robert I in an attempt to strengthen national unity.
In 1760, James Macpherson published the works of “Ossian,” supposedly an ancient Scottish bard who rivaled Homer. Macpherson was widely discredited, however, when he refused to produce the original manuscripts. James Boswell (1740-95), the biographer of Samuel Johnson , composed Scots verse as well as journals detailing his travels with the good doctor. “Scotland’s National Bard,” Robert Burns (1759-96), ignored pressure from the south to write in English, instead composing in his native Scots. New Year’s Eve revelers owe their anthem to him, although most mouth “Auld Lang Syne” (Old Long Time) without knowing what it means. Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832) was among the first Scottish authors to win international accolades for his work. The chvalric Ivanhoe is one of the best-known, if sappiest, novels of all time. Scott was also quite nostalgic, and his historic novels (such as Waverley ) helped to spark the 19th-century revival of Highlands culture. Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-94) is most famous for his tales of high adventure, including Treasure Island, which still fuel children’s imaginations. His Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde is nominally set in London, but some recognize Edinburgh’s streets in Stevenson’s Gothic descriptions. Scotland’s authorial sons also include Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (1859-1930), whose Sherlock Holmes series is beloved by would-be gumshoes across the world, and JM Barrie (1860-1937), inventor of Peter Pan.
Scotland’s literary present is as vibrant as its past. A series of 20th-century poets—most notably Hugh MacDiarmid and Edwin Morgan —have returned to the language of Burns, fueling a renaissance of Scottish Gaelic, particularly the Lowlands (“Lallands”) dialect. Neil Gunn (1891-1973) wrote short stories and novels about Highland history and culture. More recent novelists include Alasdair Gray, Tom Leonard, James Kelman, and Irvine Welsh.
Scotland has produced fewer famous visual artists than it has writers, but the extrordinary galleries and museums of Glasgow and Edinburgh display a rich aesthetic history. Eighteenth- and 19th-century portraitists like Allan Ramsay and Sir Henry Raeburn and genre painter David Wilkie have international reputations, while James Guthrie and others from the Glasgow School reveal the influence of Impressionism in their works. As a participant in both the Arts and Crafts Movement and the Art Nouveau scene, Glaswegian artist and architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh (1868-1928) boosted Scotland’s artistic prestige with his elegant designs, many of which can be found around Glasgow.
The Gaelic music of western Scotland has its roots in the traditional music of Irish settlers. As in Ireland, ceilidhs (KAY-lees)—spirited gatherings of music and dance—bring jigs, reels, and Gaelic songs to halls and pubs. The clarsach, a Celtic harp, was the primary medium for musical expression until the 16th century, when Highlander bagpipes and the violin introduced new creative possibilities. Ballads —narrative songs often performed unaccompanied—are a significant Scottish musical heritage. The folk tradition is evident in Scottish pop music, including The Proclaimers, folk rockers Belle and Sebastian, and Britpop entries Texas and Travis. Glasgow has been an exporter of talent since the 80s, generating bands like Simple Minds and Tears for Fears. Today, Glaswegians are proud of their stylish guitar rock revival band Franz Ferdinand.
B&B regulars will encounter many a Scottish breakfast, consisting of beans, fried eggs, potato cakes, fried tomato, and a rasher of bacon. In general, Scottish cuisine greatly resembles English food. Although buttery shortbread will please everyone, only adventurous travelers are likely to sample more traditional dishes, which include Scotch eggs (boiled eggs wrapped in a sausage meat mixture, breaded, and fried) and haggis, the infamous national dish made from sheep stomach. Those courageous enough to try it will be rewarded with a zesty, if mushy, delicacy. Scotland’s most deliciously foul specialty is the fried Mars bar. While the fad may have peaked in the 1990s, many chip shops will still make you the crispy, gooey treat.
If many visitors are disappointed by the fare, few can find fault with Scotland’s whisky (spelled without the “e”). Remember: all Scotch is whiskey, but not all whiskey is whisky. Scotch whisky is either “single malt” (from a single distillery) or “blended” (a mixture of several brands). The malts are excellent and distinctive, with flavors and strengths varied enough to accommodate novices and lifelong devotees alike. Raise a glass yourself at the distilleries in Pitlochry (p.), the Speyside area , or on the Isle of Islay . Due to heavy taxes on alcohol sold in Britain, Scotch may be cheaper at home or from duty-free stores than it is in Scotland. The Scots know how to party: they have the highest alcohol consumption rate in Britain and, no surprise, are more generous with their licensing laws than England and Wales—drinks are served later and pubs are open longer (often until midnight or later).
The Scottish are as passionate about football as their English neighbors. Glasgow is particularly devoted to its two main clubs, Celtic FC and Rangers FC. Scottish rugby takes a close second to football, with three professional teams drawing crowds in the thousands. Golf, the “tyrannizing game” that continues to dominate St. Andrews , was first invented in 14th-century Scotland. The over 400 golf courses in Scotland testify to the persistent influence of this sport. Traditional Scottish or Highland games originated from competitions under English military oppression, when participants could use only common objects such as hammers, rounded stones, and tree trunks to compete. Although “tossing the caber” may look easy, it actually requires a good deal of talent and practice to chuck an 18 ft., 150 lb. pine trunk. Weekend clan gatherings, bagpipe competitions, and Highland games occur frequently in Scotland, especially in summer; check for events at TICs and in local newspapers. Each year, a spate of festivals celebrate Scotland’s distinctive history and culture. June and July’s Common Ridings in the Borders and the raucous Up Helly Aa in Shetland on the last Tuesday in January are among the best known. Scotland is also famous for its New Year’s Eve celebration, known as Hogmanay . The party goes on all over the country, taking over the streets in Edinburgh and Glasgow. The granddaddy of all events is the Edinburgh International Festival , one of the largest in the world. The concentration of musical and theatrical events in the space of three weeks is dizzying, and Edinburgh’s cafes and shops stay open all hours as pipers roam the streets. Be sure to catch the Fringe Festival , the much less costly sibling of the International Festival. There are literally hundreds of performances every day, including drama, comedy acts, and jazz concerts.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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