Dijon Overview

While Dijon (dee-jhon; pop. 150,000) is synonymous with the pungent mustard that it has produced for centuries, the town hardly survives on Grey Poupon alone. Now Burgundy’s regional capital, the city was once the center of secular power for all of France, and its grandeur lives on in fine museums and splendid churches. Unlike the Côte d’Or wineries nearby, which retain a rustic enchantment, Dijon is thoroughly modern, and a large international student presence makes it a great place for a night out. Though it lacks Parisian glamor, Dijon offers something for everyone—from haute cuisine to high culture, from pulsating clubs to peaceful salons de thé.

• Trains: Cours de la Gare, at the end of av. du Maréchal Foch. Ticket office open daily 5am-11pm. Info office open M-W 6:30am-9pm, Th-F 6:30am-9:30pm, Sa 6:30am-9pm, Su 7:15am-9:30pm. To: Beaune (25min.; 26 per day, fewer Sa-Su; €6.40); Clermont-Ferrand (4-5hr.; 10-12 per day, 2 TGV; €44); Lyon (2-2½hr.; 14 per day, 4 TGV; €25); Nice (6-8hr., 6-8 per day, €88); Paris (1-3hr.; 3-4 per day, 12-15 TGV; €52).
• Buses: TRANSCO, 21 cours de la Gare (☎03 80 42 11 00; www.cg21.fr), connected to the train station, left of the exit. Ticket and info office open M-Th 5:45am-9pm, F 5:45am-9:30pm, Sa 5:30am-8pm, Su 9am-9pm. Schedule posted outside the terminal. Tickets available on the bus. To Beaune (1hr., 6 per day, €6.30) via Gevrey Chambertin (10min., every hr. 6am-8pm, €1.80) and to various stops in the Côte D’Or.
• Public Transportation: Divia, pl. Grangier (☎0800 10 20 04; www.divia.fr). Office open M-F 7:30am-6:45pm, Sa 8:30am-6:30pm. Buses run 6am-9pm; limited night service until 12:30am. Tickets €1, carnet of 10 €7.40; day pass €3.20, 1-week pass €8.90. Buy individual tickets on board; carnets and passes are available at the office.
• Taxis: Taxi Dijon (☎03 80 41 41 12) or Taxi 2000 (☎03 80 54 34 54). Outside the train station. 24hr.
• Car Rental: 7 bis cours de la Gare. Hertz (☎03 80 53 14 00). From €60 per day. Under-25 surcharge €34. Open M-F 8am-noon and 1:30-6:30pm, Sa 8am-noon and 2-5pm. AmEx/MC/V. National (☎03 80 53 09 08). From €76 per day. Under-25 surcharge €24. Open M-F 8am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm, Sa 9am-noon. AmEx/MC/V.
• Bike Rental: Available at the tourist office (below). €12 per ½-day, €18 per day, €50 per 3 days; passport photocopy and credit-card deposit.

Orientation And Practical Information

The main axis of the vieille ville, rue de la Liberté, runs roughly from place Darcy (recognizable by its arch, Porte Guillaume) and the tourist office to place Saint-Michel. From the train station, follow av. du Maréchal Foch. Place de la République is the central roundabout for roads leading out of the city.

• Tourist Office: 34 rue des Forges (☎08 92 70 05 58, €0.34 per min.; www.dijon-tourism.com). Offers a free detailed map of the city and accommodations booking (☎03 80 44 11 59; www.reserver-dijon.fr). Open from May to mid-Oct. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-5pm; from mid-Oct. to Apr. M-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-5pm. Branch at pl. Darcy. Open M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-6pm.
• Tours: Tourist office organizes themed city tours, some in English (daily July-Aug; €6, students €3, under 18 €1), and vineyard tours (www.wineandvoyages.com; €55-65). Reserve in advance.
• Luggage Storage: At the train station. €4 per bag per 24hr. Open July-Aug. M-F 8am-7:15pm; Sept.-June M-F 8am-7:15pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-12:15pm and 1:45-5:45pm.
• English-Language Bookstore: Librairie Privat, 17 rue de la Liberté (☎03 80 44 95 44). Small selection of books in English. Open M-Sa 9:30am-7pm.
• Youth Center: Centre Régional d’Information Jeunesse de Bourgogne (CRIJ), 50 rue Berlier (☎03 80 44 18 35; www.crijbourgogne.com). Info on lodging, classes, grape-picking, summer jobs, and travel; mostly in French. Open M 2-6pm, Tu-F 10am-6pm.
• Laundromats: 36 rue Guillaume Tell (☎06 32 08 88 32). €4 per 7kg. Open daily 6am-9pm. 55 rue Berbisey. Wash €3.50 per 7kg, dry €2 per 28min. Open daily 7am-8:30pm.
• Police: 2 pl. Suquet (☎03 80 44 55 00). Call for the pharmacie de garde.
• Medical Services: Centre Hospitalier Régional, 2 bd. du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny (☎03 80 29 30 31). SOS Médecins (☎03 80 59 80 80, €0.12 per min.). Médecin de garde (☎03 80 40 28 28). Dentiste de garde (☎03 80 46 01 02).
• Internet Access: Cybersp@ce 21, 46 rue Mongue (☎03 80 30 57 43). €0.10 per min., €4 per hr. Open M-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 2pm-midnight.
• Post Office: Pl. Grangier (☎03 83 50 62 19), near pl. Darcy. Currency exchange. Open M-Tu and Th-F 8:30am-7pm, W 9am-7pm, Sa 8:30am-12:30pm. Postal Code: 21000.

Accommodations And Camping

• Hôtel Le Jacquemart, 32 rue Verrerie (☎03 80 60 09 60; www.hotel-lejacquemart.fr), centrally located on a side street near Église Notre-Dame. A classy lobby and winding staircase lead to tidy rooms blooming with floral decorations. Breakfast €5.90. Reception 24hr. Reservations recommended. Singles €29, with shower or bath €43-53; doubles €32/52-64; triples €59-69; quads €72-74. AmEx/MC/V.
• Hôtel Victor Hugo, 23 rue des Fleurs (☎03 80 43 63 45; hotel.victor.hugo@wanadoo.fr). Simple, impeccably neat rooms with TV. Some have garden views. Breakfast €6. Reception 24hr. Reservations recommended. Singles €31, with shower and toilet €35-39; doubles €39-49; quads €81. Extra bed €7. AmEx/MC/V.
• Foyer International d’Étudiants, 6 rue du Maréchal Leclerc (☎03 80 71 70 00). A very long walk (30-40min.) or bus #3 from Sévigné (from the train station, take a right on rue Remy and then a left on bd. de Sévigné; the stop will be on your right; dir.: St-Apollinaire la Fleuriée or Val Sully) to Billardon (20min.), on rue Moulin. Rue du Maréchal Leclerc is 1 block ahead on the right. A colorless, dorm-like hostel with an international crowd. Spacious rooms with desks, mini-fridges, and sinks. Common co-ed bathrooms, kitchen, ping-pong, tennis courts, piano, and TV rooms. Cafeteria open from Oct. to early June daily. Laundry. Reception 24hr. Singles €16; doubles €22. MC/V.
• Camping Municipal du Lac, 3 bd. Kir (☎03 80 43 54 72; www.camping-dijon.com). Take bus #3 (dir.: Fontaine d’Ouche) from the station to CHS La Chartreuse. From the stop, take an immediate right and follow the underpass to the campground. Grassy sites within walking distance of a large lake. Barbecue, restaurant, laundry and Wi-Fi. Reception July-Aug. 8am-8pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June 8:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-8pm. Gates closed 10pm-7am. Open from Apr. to mid-Oct. Reservations recommended. July-Aug. €3.40 per person, under 7 €2; sites €5. From Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June €2.50 per person, under 7 €1.50; sites €3.70. Electricity €3.50. MC/V.

Food

Dijon’s reputation for haute cuisine is well deserved but, unfortunately, reflected in its high restaurant prices. Rue Berbisey, rue Monge, rue Musette, and place Émile Zola feature restaurants that serve meals for €15-20. Pedestrian rue d’Amiral Roussin, behind pl. de la Liberté, provides outdoor dining in a 17th-century setting. A colorful market takes place in the pedestrian area around Les Halles, extending to place François Rudé (open Tu and F mornings, Sa all day). Les Halles is also host to several small specialty stores, including cheese and chocolate shops. Cheap kebab joints are located throughout the centre-ville (kebabs €3-5) and around the train station. There’s a Monoprix at 11 rue Piron, off pl. Jean Macé. (☎03 80 30 26 60. Open M-Sa 9am-8:45pm.)

• La Mère Folle, 102 rue Berbisey (☎03 80 50 19 76). A large painting of “the crazy mother” watches as patrons enjoy traditional bourguignon fare worth every euro. Try the rich, flavorful poulet à la Gastro Gérard (chicken in a white wine, Gruyère, and mustard sauce; €13). For a taste of the exotic, try ostrich with escargots (€14). Salads €11. Plats €11-14. 2-course menu €15. Open M, Th, Su noon-2pm and 7-11pm; W 7-11pm; F noon-2pm and 7-11:30pm; Sa 7-11:30pm. MC/V.
• La Petite Marché, 27-29 rue Musette (☎03 80 30 15 10). Above a health-food store. Organic and vegetarian fare, like the fruit-filled salade exotique (€8.50), along with some meat dishes, like steak haché (€8). Salads €6.50-8.50. Plat du jour plus appetizer or dessert €11. Tartes €5.50. Open M-Sa 9am-2pm. MC/V.
• Les Moules Zola, 3 pl. Émile Zola (☎03 80 58 93 26). As its name so subtly suggests, this popular restaurant serves heaping bowls of mussels swimming in sauces—like creamy regional mustard or the spicy Spanish tomato—with huge helpings of frites (€11-13). Huge seafood salads €6.80-10. Open June-Aug. daily noon-2pm and 7-10pm; Aug.-May W-Su noon-2pm and 7-10pm.
• Brasserie des Grands Ducs, 96 rue de la Liberté (☎03 80 30 25 30). The quiche lorraine (€5.10) is tasty, but the menu’s jewels are ice-cream sundaes like lemon sorbet and vodka (€6.80). Open M-Th and Su 6:30am-midnight, F-Sa 6:30am-2am. MC/V.

Sights

Dijon’s major sights are all contained within a few blocks in the centre-ville. The Palais des Ducs de Bourgogne is the city’s most celebrated landmark, but other sights make for more entertaining diversions. In 2004, Dijon’s mayor mandated   free admission to all municipal museums; unsurprisingly, he has proven a popular politician and was re-elected in 2008. Relish the bargain!

 Musée Des Beaux Arts. In addition to a collection of mostly 15th- to 20th- century European art, the museum’s highlight is the Tomb of the Dukes, which displays two gilded memorials for the 15th-century Valois dukes of Burgundy. The modern art wing includes a Cézanne and 20th-century technicolor paintings by Charles Lapicque. The museum also has special tours throughout the year; one focuses on death in art, while another leads visitors through the museum blindfolded. (Pl. de la Libération. Enter by cours de Bar. ☎03 80 74 52 70; www.musees-bourgogne.org. Open M and W-Su May-Oct. 9:30am-6pm; Nov.-Apr. 10am-5pm. Modern art wing open M and W-Su May-Oct. 9:30-11:45am and 1:45-6pm; Nov.-Apr. 10-11:45am and 1:45-5pm. Special tours in French; ask at the information desk for times and prices. Permanent collection free; temporary exhibitions €2, students €1. Audio tours in English, French, and German €3.90.)

Palais Des Ducs De Bourgogne. At the center of the vieille ville stands the most conspicuous vestige of ducal power, the 52m Tour Philippe le Bon, which towers over the rest of the city. Climb the 600-year-old tower’s 316 steps for a panoramic view of the vieille ville. (Pl. de la Libération. ☎03 80 74 52 71. Tours from mid-Apr. to mid-Nov. daily every 45min. 9am-noon and 1:45-5:30pm; from mid-Nov. to mid-Apr. every hr. W 1:30-3:30pm, Sa-Su 9-11am and 1:30-3:30pm. €2.30, students €1.20.)

Musée Archéologique. In the converted 11th-century Benedictine Abbey of St-Bénigne, view the evolution of the Côte d’Or’s manmade art, from prehistoric jewelry and Gallo-Roman sculpture to 17th-century pottery. For those uninspired by the museum’s collections, the courtyard offers a lovely, shaded place to relax. (5 rue du Docteur Maret. ☎03 80 48 83 70. Open M and W-Su 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-6pm. Free. Temporary exhibits €6, under 18 €5.)

Église Notre-Dame. Built over a span of only 20 years, this “miniature cathedral” has an intricately detailed and unified Gothic style. To the right of the altar, you’ll find 13th-century stained glass, among the oldest surviving examples in France. The Horloge à Jacquemart atop the church tower, one of the city’s famous symbols, was captured and brought to Dijon by Philippe le Hardi after a 1382 victory over the Flemish. As you leave the church via rue de la Chouette, remember to rub the well-worn chouette (owl) with your left hand for good luck—but don’t look at it, or it won’t work. (Pl. Notre Dame. ☎03 86 41 86 76; www.notre-dame-dijon.net. Information pamphlet available in many languages; worth the €0.50.)

Other Sights. Recognizable by its brightly colored Burgundian towers, the Gothic Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne was constructed in the sixth century over the tomb of its namesake. Don’t miss the spectacular—and enormous—18th-century organ designed by Charles Joseph Riepp. (Pl. St-Bénigne. ☎03 80 30 39 33. Open daily 9am-7pm. Crypt open M 10am-6pm, Tu-F 9:30am-6pm, Sa 9:30am-4pm, Su 2-6pm. €2 with informative brochure.) While the Église Saint-Michel has the dark, vaulted interior of a Gothic cathedral, its style changed mid-construction, resulting in a hybrid, colonnaded Renaissance facade. The church suffered severe damage during the French Revolution, and much of its stained glass and original sculpture was destroyed. (Pl. St-Michel. ☎03 80 63 17 80.) Founded in 1747, Moutarde Maille offers extensive information on the condiment that made Dijon a household name, in addition to free dégustations. This shop is serious about its mustard; in addition to the standard yellow, they offer unique flavors such as mango and melon. (2 rue du Chapeau Rouge. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm. MC/V.)

Entertainment And Festivals

In July, Dijon’s Estivade brings revelry to its streets and auditoriums. Pick up L’Été on Continue at the tourist office for info. (☎03 80 74 53 33. Tickets €8.) The city devotes a week in late summer to the Fêtes de la Vigne and the Folkloriades Internationales, celebrations of grapes that feature over 20 foreign dance and music troupes. (☎03 80 30 37 95; www.fetesdelavigne.com. Tickets €10.)

• Grand Théâtre, pl. du Théâtre (Info ☎03 80 60 44 44, tickets 42 44 44; www.fnac.com), next to St-Michel. Presents operas from mid-Oct. to mid-May. Tickets €15-48, students €5.50-10. Office open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-4pm.
• Théâtre Dijon Bourgogne-Parvis Saint-Jean, rue Danton (☎03 80 30 12 12; www.tdb-cdn.com). Performances Oct.-June typically M and W-Th 7:30pm, Tu and F 8:30pm, Sa 5pm. Tickets €20, students and under 26 €12. Info office open July M-F 1-7pm; from late Aug. to June M-F 1-7pm, Sa and performance nights 11am-4pm.

Nightlife

Rue Berbisey is lined with bars and cafes, and brasseries stay open late around Les Halles and place de la Libération.

• Le Broque, 1 rue du Général Fauconnet (☎03 80 73 81 14; www.lebroque.com). Unpretentious 2-story bar. Dance floor stays hopping late. Patrons jive on bar tops and croon along to songs. Beer from €2. Open Tu-Sa 10pm-2am, Su 9pm-2am. MC/V.
• Le Chat Noir, 20 av. Garibaldi (☎03 80 73 39 57; www.lechatnoir.fr). Chic discothèque adorned with stylish cat decor. Cavernous ground floor plays techno and house, while a livelier basement blasts hits from decades past. Expect a line at the door. Mixed drinks from €8. Open W-Th 11:15pm-5am, F-Sa 11:15pm-6am. MC/V.
• Free Style Bar, 104-106 rue Berbisey (☎03 80 30 05 16). A student hangout that gets packed on weekends. Waiters entertain by juggling bottles and serving up flaming shots (€3-4), which come in every alcoholic combination imaginable. Drink menu boasts some creative concoctions, such as the Kamasutra (vodka, Southern Comfort, cranberry juice, blue caraçao, and banana juice; €7). Open M-Sa 6pm-2am.
• Café de l’Univers, 47 rue Berbisey (☎03 80 30 98 27). The galaxy painted on the windows of this rock-and-roll bar offers just a taste of what lies inside. Decor includes an enormous Betty Boop. A slightly older clientele sips drinks on the terrace, but students fill the basement for weekly concerts. Beer from €2.50. Open daily 5pm-2am.

Daytrips From Dijon

 Abbaye De Fontenay

To get to Fontenay from Dijon, take the train to Montbard (45min., 4-5 per day, round-trip €22) and then a taxi to the abbey (€21 round-trip). If there aren’t any at the station, call ☎03 80 92 18 57 or 92 31 49. Most passengers who head to the taxi stand at Montbard are also visiting the abbey—share a cab to cut costs. ☎03 80 92 15 00; www.abbayedefontenay.com. Open daily from Apr. to mid-Oct. 10am-5:30pm; Nov.-Mar. 10am-noon and 2-5pm. Entrance fee includes 1hr. tour in French. Most visitors choose to forgo the tour and instead use multilingual pamphlets from the info office. €8.90, students €4.20.

If ever a single location could make a traveler yearn for the seclusion of monastic life, the Abbaye de Fontenay (ah-bay du fohn-tuh-nay) would be it. Converted into a paper mill in the 18th century, it was restored in the early 20th century and now exists almost exactly as it did in the 12th century. From the majestic Romanesque church—known for its stunning Virgin of Fontenay statue—to the simple yet spacious dormitories that often hold art exhibitions and the beautiful gardens, this out-of-the-way stop is worth the time, money, and effort it takes to get there. In May 2008, the abbey inaugurated a recreation of the 12th-century forge. The whole abbey is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Adjacent to the grounds is a museum that holds the enormous papal proclamation of the founding of Fontenay.