Dunedin Overview

The Scottish settlers who arrived in Dunedin (du-NEE-din; pop. 120,000) in 1848 would be proud to see that the city has continued to think big. With one of the largest student populations in New Zealand, Dunedin also plays host to those looking for an education in practical physics. With the steepest streets in the world, one thing is clear: it’s easy to roll into town, but it’s much harder to roll out.

Flights: The airport is 30min. south on SH1. Air New Zealand, 18 Princes St. at the Octagon (☎479 6594), flies to Auckland (2hr., $124-554) and Wellington (2hr., $118-408), often via Christchurch. Taxi companies run airport shuttles (around $30).
Buses: InterCity, 205 St. Andrew St. (☎474 8860), runs to: Balclutha (1hr., 1-2per day, $22-27); Christchurch (6hr., 2-3 per day, $37-46) via Oamaru (1hr., $20-25) and Timaru (3hr., $29-36); Invercargill (3-4hr., 1-2 per day, $33-41); Queenstown (4hr., 1 per day, $33-41). Atomic Shuttles (☎322 8883) is cheap and reliable, traveling once daily from the visitors center to Christchurch ($35), Invercargill ($30-35) and Queenstown ($40).
Public Transportation: 4 bus companies travel a variety of routes throughout the city ($1-4, depending on the number of zones traveled). Many depart from the Octagon. Citibus offers a $7 day pass. Pick up a Dunedin bus timetable from the visitors center.
Taxis: Stands at the Octagon, on High St. off Princes St., and on St. Andrew and Hanover St., off George St. Try Dunedin Taxis (☎477 7777) or City Taxis (☎477 1771).
Car Rental: Jackie’s, 23 Cumberland St. (☎477 7848). Cars from $55 per day, $0.20 per km over 200km. Unlimited km for rentals over 3 days. Lower rates Apr.-Oct.
Bike Rental: Cycle Surgery, 67 Stuart St. (☎477 7473; www.cyclesurgery.co.nz), at the corner of Cumberland St. Half-day $20, full-day $35. Discounts for 5- or more-day rentals. Open M-Th 8:30am-6pm, F 8:30am-9pm, Sa 10:30am-4pm, Su 10:30am-4:30pm.
Hitchhiking: Although Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking, hitchhikers often take a bus from the Octagon out of the city. Those heading north usually take the Pine Hill bus ($2), while those heading south take the Mosgiel bus to Saddle Hill ($4), which leaves from Countdown Supermarket on Cumberland St. A safer and widely used option is to check common room message boards in area hostels for ride availabilities.

Orientation

Dunedin is organized around the Octagon, where a statue of Robert Burns sits in front of the Gothic Revival spires of St. Paul’s. George Street, Dunedin’s main commercial thoroughfare, extends roughly north toward the University of Otago; it becomes Princes Street south of the Octagon. Pubs are mostly scattered on and southeast of George St. between the Octagon and the university. Stuart Street runs down the hill directly toward the train station and Otago Harbour. The Otago Peninsula extends from the southeastern part of the city along Portsmouth Drive.

Practical Information

Visitors Center: Dunedin i-Site, 48 the Octagon (☎474 3300; www.cityofdunedin.com). Open daily 8:30am-6pm; winter M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-5pm.
Department of Conservation (DOC): 77 Lower Stuart St. (☎477 0677), in the Conservation House. Open M-F 8:30am-5pm.
Tours: Citibus Newton (☎477 5577 or 0800 244 844; www.time2.co.nz) operates city tours starting at $18. Buses generally run 9am-3:30pm. Buses depart from the visitors center. Also provides transportation to Larnach Castle, leaving the visitors center for 1hr. tours ($42) at 10am.
Budget Travel: STA Travel, 207a George St. (☎474 0146; fax 477 2741). Open M-F 9am-5:30pm, Sa 11am-2pm.
Banks and Currency Exchange: Banks dot George and Princes St., most with 24hr. ATMs. Thomas Cook/TravelEx, 346 George St. (☎477 1532), inside Broker Travel. Open M-F 8am-5pm. The visitors center exchanges money at other times.
Work Opportunities: The NZ Immigration Service, 43 Princes St. (☎0508 55 88 5), near the Octagon, helps travelers to obtain a work permit. Open M-F 9am-3pm. Adecco Personnel Limited, 110 Moray Pl., in the Carnegie Ctr. on the ground fl. (☎477 4036; www.adecco.co.nz), can provide short- or long-term placement in the commercial or industrial sectors. For information on fruit-picking jobs (available Jan.-May; mainly peaches, apricots, apples, and cherries), visit www.seasonalwork.co.nz.
Police: 25 Great King St. (☎471 4800). In emergencies, dial ☎111.
Medical Services: The urgent pharmacy is at 95 Hanover St. (☎477 6344). Open M-F 6pm-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm. Urgent Doctors (☎479 2900) is part of the same building. Open 8am-11:30pm. Dunedin Public Hospital, 201 Great King St. (☎474 0999), has emergency facilities.
Outdoor Equipment: Kathmandu, 144 Great King St. (☎474 517; www.kathmandu.co.nz), carries just about everything you need for the next big adventure. M-Th 9am-5:30pm, F 9am-7pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm.
Books: University Book Shop, 378 Great King St., (☎477 6976; www.unibooks.co.nz), has a selection of academic books, plus a discount section upstairs. Open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm, Sa 9:30am-3pm, Su 11am-3pm.
Internet Access: The Common Room, 18 George St. (☎470 1730). $4 per hr. Wireless available. Open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-9pm. Arc has 25min. of free, albeit extremely slow, access.
Post Office: 233 Moray Pl. (☎474 0932), just north of George St. Poste Restante. Open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm, Sa 10am-12:30pm.

Accommodations

Most budget choices are within a 10min. walk of the Octagon. Those within a couple blocks thrive on bus traffic and tend to offer less in way of street parking and charm than their outer area counterparts. The farther you move from the Octagon, the more you get in terms of personality, parking, and amenities. Reception generally runs until 8pm. Book in advance during peak season and during rugby games.

Central Octagon

On Top Backpackers (VIP), 12 Filleul St. (☎477 6121; www.ontopbackpackers.co.nz). Perched on an extensive pool hall behind the Municipal Chambers, the close feel of the rooms is balanced out by a large common area and balcony overlooking the city. Key deposit $10. Dorms $23; singles $48; doubles $56. $1 VIP discount. MC/V.
Central Backpackers (BBH), 243 Moray Pl., (☎477 9985; www.dunedinhostels.com). Located in the middle of it all, this hostel is hip on the inside, with a modern TV lounge and sleek kitchen. Dorms $24; singles $38; doubles $62. BBH discount. MC/V.
Next Stop, 2 View St. (☎477 0447; www.nextstop.co.nz), near the Octagon. From Princes St., turn right on Moray Pl. and then left on View St. The slightly small rooms have skylights but no windows. Excellent views from balcony. Dorms $22; doubles, triples, quads, or quints $25 per person.
Stafford Gables (YHA), 71 Stafford St. (☎474 1919). Take Princes St. up several blocks to Stafford St. In this converted hospital, finding your room is like navigating a maze, but the panoramic views from the rooftop balcony are worth the hunt. The TV lounge is in the old morgue. Dorms $26; singles $48; twins and doubles $63. $3 YHA discount. MC/V.
Manor House Backpackers (BBH/VIP), 28 Manor Pl. (☎477 0484; www.manorhousebackpackers.co.nz), 6 blocks down Princes St. Occupying 2 adjacent 1920s houses, Manor House offers ample privacy. Free pickup. Reception 9am-9pm. Dorms $22; doubles $55; triples $69. MC/V.

Beyond The Octagon

Chalet Backpackers (BBH), 296 High St. (☎479 2075). Take Princes St. to High St. and head uphill. Giant windows in each room wipe away trampers’ memory of basement bunks. Dorms $22; singles $37; doubles $50. $2 BBH discount. Cash only.
Ramsay House, 60 Stafford St. (☎477 6313). Across the street from Stafford Gables. This historic home has a spacious kitchen and new, nicer rooms in an annex across the street. Call ahead about closings May-Nov. Dorms $23; singles $40; doubles and twins $50. $3 BBH discount. MC/V.
Hogwarts (BBH), 277 Rattray St. Follow the white spray-painted “277” across the street from St. Joseph’s. This addition to the backpackers scene isn’t central, but the funky and well-appointed facilities up top encourage socializing in peaceful seclusion. Dorms $22; doubles $51, with bath $66. $3 BBH discount. MC/V.
Elm Lodge (BBH), 74 Elm Row (☎0508 356 563; www.elmlodge.co.nz). Head up Rattray St. to Brown St., then uphill to Elm Row. Perched high above Dunedin, the Elm offers a homey atmosphere with the added perks of a jacuzzi and wireless Internet. Free pickup and drop-off. Dorms $22; singles $34-40; twins and doubles $54. $4 BBH discount. MC/V.
Hulmes Court, 52 Tennyson St. (☎477 5319 or 0800 448 5637; www.hulmes.co.nz). Offering 1 luxurious single with phone, TV, and VCR, Hulmes makes for a great Dunedin splurge. Free breakfast, laundry, bike rentals, and Internet. Bookings essential. Single $70; doubles $105, with bath $135. MC/V.

Way Beyond The Octagon

The Asylum Lodge (BBH), 36 Russell Rd. (☎465 8123), in Seacliff, 33km north of Dunedin. Follow SH1 north from Dunedin and head east on Coast Rd. at the signs for Seacliff. Colorful group of semi-permanents make this perhaps the best-named hostel in New Zealand. Free activities include kayaking, surfing, biking, horseback riding, fishing, and the chance to cruise in a ’64 Chevy. Free Internet. Closed May-Nov. Dorms $23; singles $35; doubles $44. $3 BBH discount. MC/V.
Leith Valley Touring Park, 103 Malvern St. (☎467 9936; lvtpdun@southnet.co.nz), 2km from the city. Take the Normanby Bus (M-F, $2) or walk down George St., turn left on Duke St. and continue up to Malvern St. A small, secluded park on Leith Stream with access to trails. Reception 7:30am-10:30pm. Caravan and tent sites $12 per person; on-site caravans $35; 2-person flats $64, extra person $12. Cash only.
Dunedin Holiday Park, 41 Victoria Road in St. Kilda (☎455 4690 or 0800 945 455; www.dunedinholidaypark.co.nz). Take Princes St. south until it becomes King Edward St. and then Prince Albert Rd. Turn left on Victoria Rd. The camp is on your right. Whimsically painted cabins. Token-operated BBQ. Shop. Tent sites $14 per person, powered $18; standard cabins $36; ensuite $76. Cash only.

Food

Catering to students, Dunedin overflows with cheap eats. George Street swarms with inexpensive Thai, Japanese, Korean, and Indian eateries. For outdoor dining, choose from any number of nearby takeaways, and get a seat in the lively Octagon. Markets include Countdown Foods (☎477 7283), 309 Cumberland St., and Night ’n Day (☎477 0313), at the corner of George and St. Andrew St., both open 24hr. On Saturday mornings, the area around the Dunedin train station becomes a lively farmer’s market from 8am-1pm.

Etrusco at the Savoy, 8a Moray Pl., (☎477 3737; www.etrusco.co.nz), off Princes St. Locals have even gotten married here. Delicious mains (pastas $14-22) served in a warm atmosphere that can be a festive prelude to a night in the Octagon. Most dishes come in medium or large sizes. Open daily 5:30pm-late. MC/V.
Metro, 153 Lower Stuart St. (☎477 7084). An ode to the London Tube. Relax on the torn purple couches as you munch on comforting mains ($10-15). Waffles with bacon and bananas ($10.50) make for a sweet and savory late-night snack. Open M-Th and Su 8am-midnight, F-Sa 8am-2am. Kitchen open 8am-10pm daily.
Jizo, 56 Princes St. (☎479 2692). Dark, stylized interior and slow jazz exude chic as business types and families enjoy high-quality Japanese food. The sushi main ($15.50) defines fresh. Open M-Th 11:30am-9pm, F 11:30am-9:30pm, Sa 5-9:30pm.
Apsara, 380 George St. (☎477 1628), opposite Albert Arms. The big Cambodian noodle soups ($7) warm you from the inside out, and the curry veggies with coconut milk served over rice ($6) are delicious and filling. Open M-Sa 11am-9pm, Su 3pm-9pm.
Barakah, 12 the Octagon, (☎477 3776), on the corner of Lower Stuart St. Enjoy classic tapas dishes ($5-8) in an indoor/outdoor setting on the Octagon. Open daily 10am-late. Kitchen closes 9pm. Brunch 10am-2pm.
Percolater, 142 Lower Stuart St. (☎477 5462), just below the Octagon. Crystal chandeliers add glamor to the otherwise bland decor at Percolater, which makes its mark with excellent fair-trade coffee ($3) and sandwiches ($9-10). Open M-Th and Su 9am-10pm, F-Sa 9am-midnight.
Tangenté, 111 Moray Pl. (☎477 0232), left off Upper Stuart St., 1 block past the Octagon. Settle into this aromatic, family-friendly restaurant. Brunch specials $9-17. Dinner mains from $17. Open daily 8am-3pm; F-Sa nights also open for dinner. MC/V.
Tuatara Pizza, 72 Ardmore St. (☎443 8186). The scent of baked bread and gourmet pizzas fills the air at this ski bum favorite (large pizzas $32; not-so-large $17). Also offers a healthy nightlife scene (beer $5, shots $6) around the bar and pool tables. Open daily 5-11pm or midnight; later in winter.

Cafes

Cafes cover nearly every block in Dunedin (even the McDonald’s has a McCafe).

Arc, 135 High St. (☎474 1135), 1 block from Princes St. Vegetarian, free-trade, and even vegan in a pinch, this bohemian cooperative and iconic Dunedin hangout serves coffee, wines, and beer ($4), as well as baked snacks ($4) and mains ($8-12). 25min. of free Internet. Frequent live music in the back room. Pint night Tu 8pm-midnight ($2 cover; pints $2). Open M-Sa 10am-late.
Modaks Espresso, 339 George St. (☎477 6563). Recover from the previous night’s revelry with a strong espresso ($3) at this alternative establishment. Brick walls, dim lighting, and bass-heavy beats contribute to a self-consciously chill atmosphere. Open daily 8am-6pm.
Governors Cafe, 438 George St. (☎477 6871). Midway between the university and downtown, Governor’s has been a Dunedin landmark for more than 30 years. Famous banana splits with kiwifruit $7.50. Open M-W 8am-10pm, Th 8am-11pm, F-Sa 8am-midnight; Dec.-Feb. 9am-10pm.

Sights

Speight’S Brewery Heritage Tour And Museum. A 1hr. tour takes you through the history of beer-making from Egyptian ales to modern microbrews. Judge the “Pride of the South” for yourself with free samples after the tour. Don’t miss the tap outside offering free Speight’s spring water from deep underneath the brewery. (☎477 7697. 4-5 tours per day M-Th until 7pm and Sa-Su until 4pm. Extra tours in summer. Bookings essential. $17, students $14.)

Cadbury Chocolate Tours. The barons of British chocolate have had a strong following in New Zealand for the past century. The 45min. tour ends with a surprise that will leave your inner Willy Wonka hungry for more. (280 Cumberland St., across from Countdown. ☎0800 223 287. Tours every 30min. 9am-7pm; Apr.-Dec. 9am-3:30pm. Bookings essential. $16, students $14.)

Otago Museum. This extensive museum takes an in-depth look at the culture and natural history of Otago. The “Southern Lands, Southern People” gallery provides a thorough introduction to the region. Don’t miss the giant Maori war canoe on the 2nd fl. (On the green on Great King St. between Albany and Union St. ☎474 7474; www.otagomuseum.govt.nz. Open daily 10am-5pm. Daily tours 11:30am and 3:30pm. Museum free; suggested donation $5. Tours $10.)

Otago Settlers Museum. This museum is a multicultural tribute to the hardy men and women who tamed New Zealand’s frontier. Ride the giant Penny Farthing bicycle inside the Art Deco bus station adjacent to the museum. The brand-new Chinese gardens, located behind the museum, are set to open in mid-2008. (31 Queens Gardens, down Dowling St. ☎477 4000. Open daily 10am-5pm.)

Olveston. Built in 1904, this perfectly preserved Edwardian mansion still feels lived-in. The benefactor’s will stipulates that anyone may tickle the ivories of the 1906 Steinway grand piano, so feel free to play. (42 Royal Terr. Take George St. to Pitt St., then follow Royal Terr. until you see it on the right. ☎477 3320. Admittance by guided tour only. 1hr. tours at 9:30, 10:45am, noon, 1:30, 2:45, and 4pm. $14.50, students $13.50.)

Dunedin Public Art Gallery. Dunedin’s public gallery is a captivating work of modern art in itself. Rooms showcasing contemporary art open onto a minimalist foyer. The gallery houses a collection of Renaissance and Japanese works, as well as an archive and viewing area for New Zealand films. (In the Octagon. ☎474 3240; www.dunedin.art.museum. Open daily 10am-5pm. Free.)

Churches. The Gothic Revival churches established by early Scottish residents are worth a look, especially the First Church of Otago, with its rose window and vaulted wood ceiling. (Down Moray Pl. from Princes St.) St. Paul’s, in the Octagon, has the only stone-vaulted ceiling in New Zealand and organ with 3500 pipes.

Baldwin Street. The steepest street in the world. Stop by the pub at the bottom of the street to “earn” a certificate commemorating your victory in the battle against gravity ($2). The time to beat is about 2min. round-trip, as determined by the annual February “Gutbuster” race. (Take Great King St. north until it becomes North Rd. Baldwin St. is the 10th street on the right. The Normanby bus passes right by it, $2.)

Botanic Gardens. Established in 1863, Dunedin’s extensive gardens are arguably the best in the country. The annual Rhododendron Festival is world-renowned in botanic circles (usually held in Nov.). picnickers can grab a sandwich ($9.50) or a crepe at Croque-O-Dile Espresso

Outdoor Activities

Beaches. One of the best local walks, the track to Tunnel Beach is accessible only at low tide. The hike leads through a century-old tunnel onto a secluded beach. The tunnel was built by businessman John Cargill for his young daughter. Legend has it that she drowned on her first trip to the beach. But don’t let that stop you. (Take the Corstophine bus from the Octagon to Stenhope Cres., then walk down Blackhead/Middleton Rd. By car, take Princes St., then make a right on King Edward St. Then turn right on Hillside Rd., left in the roundabout, and then right onto Easther Cres., which becomes Middleton Rd. Tunnel Beach Road is on the left after about 5km. 1hr. round-trip walk from the trailhead.) St. Clair Beach, along with nearby St. Kilda, is the city’s primary surf spot. (Take the bus from the Octagon to St. Clair. By car, follow Tunnel Beach directions above until the roundabout. Follow Hillside Rd. as it becomes Forbury Rd., which leads to St. Clair Esplanade.)

Taieri Gorge Railway. The railway travels over spectacular gorges, into native forests, through tunnels, and across viaducts en route to Pukerangi. (☎477 4449; www.taieri.co.nz. Departs from the railway station Oct.-Apr. 9:30am and 2:30pm; May-Sept. 12:30pm. 4hr. Free bike transport. $67, backpackers and students $53.60. AmEx/MC/V.)

Otago Central Rail Trail. Stretching 152km between Middlemarch and Clyde, this historic trail follows the course of the now-defunct Otago Central Railway. (The trail takes 2-5 days biking or 5-7 days walking, but can be traveled in segments. Take the Taieri George Railway to Pukerangi, 15km from Middlemarch. $43.)

Walks And Rides. The 4km track to Mt. Cargill opens onto a view of the harbor. Another 1hr. tramp will take you to the spires of the Organ Pipes. (Take Normandy bus to Norwood St. $2. Walk to Bethunes Gully. 3hr. round-trip.) A bike path follows Thomas Burns Street, intersecting Wharf St. toward the Otago Peninsula—look for blue and white signs. ( To access the path, cross the footbridge to the right of the train station.) Hare Hill Horse Treks offers beach and hillside rides overlooking the harbor. (Take the city bus from the Octagon to Port Chalmers. $3.40. From there you can call for free pickup. ☎472 8496. Scenic Harbour Ride $50, 3hr. Beach Ride $80, Full-day $120, Overnight Escape $250.)

Entertainment

Check The Otago Daily Times for screenings or check Fink online (www.fink.net.nz) for entertainment listings. The Fortune Theatre Company, 231 Stuart St., hosts several professional acts throughout the year. (☎477 8323; www.fortunetheatre.co.nz). Box office open M 10:30am-5pm, Tu 10:30am-6pm, W-F 10:30am-8pm, Sa 4:30-8pm, Su 1:30-4pm. Tickets prices vary. The stately Regent in the Octagon is home to the New Zealand International Film Festival in August; it also hosts several traveling shows throughout the year. (☎477 8597. Box office open M-F 9am-5:30pm, Sa 10:30am-1pm.) The Metro Cinema, on Moray Pl. behind the municipal chambers, shows foreign and independent films. (☎474 3350; www.metrocinema.co.nz. $10, students $8.50; matinees $7.) For a mix of big budget and independent films, head to Rialto, 11 Moray Pl. (☎474 2200. $10-14. M-F $2 student discount.)

Nightlife

Dunedin has its fair share of rocking-until-6am student hangouts, but for a chiller evening, head to one of the many pubs or clubs in the Octagon. Info on Dunedin’s nightlife is in Fink or Deadline, both published weekly.

Pubs

Isis Lounge, 68 Princes St. (☎477 8001), in the Octagon. The house combo at this piano bar dishes out an mix of tunes on most nights. Slide into the suede chairs and enjoy happy hour from 10-11pm (cocktails $6; F also 5:30-6:30pm). House combo Tu, Th and F nights. W jazz. Sa guest artists. Open Tu-Th and Sa 6pm-late, F 5:30pm-late.
Pequeño, in the Savoy on Lower Moray Pl. (☎473 1194), under Etrusco, in the Octagon. Old-fashioned lamps and a brick fireplace lend easy sophistication to a place where many people spend their whole night. Classic mixed drinks $15. Open Tu-Sa 5pm-late.
XIIB (Twelve Below), Lower Moray Pl. (☎474 5055; www.bennu.co.nz), on the corner of Princes St. under Bennu; enter either through Bennu. This chill addition to the scene is an old-school soul lounge inside and out. W Funk, Th Soul and Reggae. Cocktails $14. Open W-Sa 8pm-late.
Captain Cook (☎474 1935), at the corner of Albany and Great King St. Near campus. Even North Islanders have stories about this varsity pub/club with pool tables and throbbing dance music (from 10pm W-Sa nights). Fans watch games on the big screens in the massive, enclosed beer garden. Open M-Sa 11am-late, Su noon-8pm.

Clubs

Bath St., 1 Bath St. (☎477 6750), across from the Common Room in the Octagon. Alternative types flock here for the leather couches and the best sound system in New Zealand, as do some of the hottest DJs (Tu-Sa). The water gets hot around 1am. Cover $5, $20 for big-name acts. Open Tu-Sa from 10pm.
The Monkey Bar, 65 Hanover St. (☎477 1637), on the corner of Hanover and Great King St. No less than 9 disco balls cast their heavenly light on the organ pipes and high ceilings of this church-turned-nightclub, which can pack in up to 1000 students on particularly sinful evenings. 2-for-1 drink card on entry. Open W-Sa 8pm-late.
10 Bar, 10 the Octagon (☎477 6310; info@10bar.co.nz), underneath Craft. Stairs behind the small entry on the Octagon lead to a 2-level underground lair, replete with pool tables, mod decor, video screens, and thumping beats. Enjoy $7.50 shooters such as “Martian Hard-On” and “Poke Both Holes.” Dress to impress, or face rejection at the door. $5 cover on F-Sa after midnight. Open Th 8pm-late, F-Sa 8pm-later.