Ennis (Inis) Overview

Growing quickly, the charming capital of Clare cloaks palpitating nightlife under the familiarity of a small town. Narrow, overlapping pedestrian streets run past ancient buildings and chimney stacks—reminders of the town’s medieval roots. The River Fergus snakes around much of Ennis, lassoing a large area just north of today’s town center—this is the “island” from which Ennis takes its name. Most people come to Ennis for its spectacular music, and there’s not a whole lot to do there during the day. The town is best experienced on a Saturday, when the pubs and clubs are buzzing and a produce market assembles in Market Square. While Ennis enjoys its visitors, it is at heart a local town, serving as the commercial center of Co. Clare and home to residents who commute to Galway or Limerick.

Orientation And Practical Information

Most of Ennis’ winding roads and paths curve back to the town center. O’Connell Square marks the center of town; to reach it from the bus and train stations, head left down Station Road. At the cathedral, turn right on O’Connell Street and go to the end of the street. A soaring statue of Daniel O’Connell stares down from atop a column in the square. From O’Connell Sq., Abbey Street and Bank Place lead across the river and into the suburbs. High Street, which becomes Parnell Street, runs almost perpendicular to O’Connell St. through the center of town. Market Street, running between O’Connell and High St., leads to Market Place.

Accommodations

Food

Enormous Dunnes, on O’Connell St., offers enough inexpensive food and beverages to feed all of Clare. (☎684 0700. Always open.) A small farmers market assembles in Market Sq. on Fridays (see Sights and Festivals).

Pubs

With over 60 pubs, Ennis has no shortage of nightlife options. Many host trad sessions that help uphold Co. Clare’s reputation for musical excellence. The night traditionally begins with slower tunes, but as time passes it livens up with foot-stomping impromptu solos. Musical pubs line the streets—just stop and listen. For music listings, grab The Clare Champion (€1.35) in just about any shop. To pick up strings for your fiddle or for information on lessons, head to Custy’s Traditional Music Shop, Cook’s Ln. (☎682 1727. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm.)

Sights And Festivals

A walking tour of Ennis spices up a portrait of the town as it was with local lore and political history. Jane O’Brien garners special praise for her gentle yet commanding presence and spirited stories. (☎087 648 3714; www.enniswalkingtours.com. 1hr. tours leave from the courtyard in Arthur’s Row, in front of the tourist office May-Oct. M and W-Su at 11am and 7pm or by appointment. €8.)

The Riches of Clare Museum, attached to the tourist office, traces the history of Co. Clare from the Bronze Age to its present state through concise explanations and audio-visual exhibits. Along with stone axes galore, the museum has an on-site well and a Proclamation of Independence from the early 20th century. Upstairs, learn about Irish emigration through a series of artsy photos. Ennis won an Eircom-sponsored contest designating them an Information Age Town and gave Ireland the chance to see what would happen to a little town pumped full of technology; this first-rate museum is one of the results. (☎682 3382; www.clarelibrary.ie. Open Oct.-May Tu-Sa 9:30am-5pm; June-Sept. M-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su 9:30am-1pm. Last admission 1hr. before closing. Free.) Two blocks along Abbey St., away from O’Connell Sq., rest the ruins of the 13th-century Ennis Friary, second only to the Clare hurling team in the local esteem it commands. During the Reformation, the Friary was seized and turned into a jail and a ritzy apartment complex. Be sure to check out the carvings that were discovered when restorers stripped off the plaster that hid them. (☎682 9100. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 10am-6pm; Oct. 10am-5pm. 20-25min. Guided tours upon request. €1.60, students €1.)Across from the Friary, a block of sandstone is inscribed with part of Yeats’s “Easter 1916” (see Easter Rising).

Perched nobly on his monument in the square, Daniel O’Connell watches over today’s town. A 10min. walk from the town center on Harmony Row, which becomes Mill Rd., leads to the Maid of Erin, a life-size statue commemorating one of the three Manchester Martyrs, nationalists hanged in Manchester in 1867 (also see Kilrush). The maid stands with her left hand on a Celtic cross; an Irish wolfhound at her side looks up for guidance. Saturday is Market Day in Market Sq., where all conceivable wares are sold beneath a statue of crafty Daedalus. A smaller farmers’ market operates on Friday from 8am to 2pm. A 30min. walk and sculpture trail winds along the trout-filled River Fergus; directions are posted in the parking lot between the river and Abbey St. Ennis’s beloved hurling team stages matches most weekends. Check the Clare Champion on Thursdays or ask local fanatics for game times and buy tickets at Cusack Park. (☎682 0172. Tickets €8-20.) Several kilometers north of town off the N18 lies Dromore Wood, a beautiful nature reserve centered around a lake. A pamphlet detailing a variety of hikes is available at the Dromore Wood Visitors Centre. (☎683 7166. Centre open mid-June to Sept. M-F 10am-6pm. Grounds open daily year-round during daylight hours. Free.)

While most locals enjoy the free music at pubs, tourists head to the new, state-of-the-art Glor Music Centre earlier in the evening. The venue also serves as a regional arts center and has expanded its repertoire to incorporate a diverse mixture of contemporary film, theater, and music, along with performances of traditional music and dance. Pick up a schedule of performances in the tourist office. (☎684 3103; www.glor.ie. Box office open M-Sa 10am-5pm. More performances Sept.-Apr.; call or check online for schedule. Tickets €12-39; student discounts usually available.) The last weekend in May, Ennis takes its musical inclinations for the full ride during the Fleadh Nua Music and Culture Festival, when sessions and other festivities spill onto the streets (☎684 0173; www.fleadhnua.com).