Sharing a name with the province to which it belongs, the city of Nan was founded in 1369. Hidden amidst the mountains on the outskirts of the Lanna Kingdom, Nan developed a unique culture and history, remaining a semi-autonomous principality until 1931. During the 1960s and 1970s, the city’s isolation made it a haven for smugglers. Today, Nan’s seclusion provokes nothing more threatening than frequent shouts of “Hello” from children unfamiliar with farang. Mural-bedecked wats and colorful boat races distinguish Nan province from other regions of Thailand; Nan city is undoubtedly a microcosm of its province.
Nan is bordered on the south and east by the Nan River. All buses arrive at the station off Chao Fah Road, in the southwestern corner of the city. The downtown area is walkable and contains most of the important sights, accommodations, and food. The main roads are Anonta Worarittidit Rd., which runs east-west and connects the markets, banks, and pharmacies; and Sumon Thewarat Rd., which runs north-south and leads to the upper part of the ciy. There, the streets are less busy and less commercialized. You’ll want to rent a bicycle or motorbike to visit this area, though, as it’s a long 2-3km walk from downtown.
The guesthouses and hotels downtown are only a 15 or 20min. stroll from the bus station, and within walking distance of Nan’s major sights. The guesthouses in the upper part of the city have a more tranquil atmosphere, but their remote location will probably require a bicycle or motorbike rental if you want to spend time downtown (and you will, because there isn’t much to do in the northern neighborhoods).
The highest concentration of restaurants is near Anonta Worarittidit Rd., with some staying open until well after dark. The day and night markets are excellent places to find inexpensive rice and noodle stands (see Markets, below).
A spacious produce market, also referred to as the evening market, sets up on Jettabut Rd. just past the Honda dealership, and is active from early to late afternoon. The night market, the largest and most comprehensive market in Nan, and certainly worth visiting. Several counters feature more than 20 dishes; a simple point at the bag you wish to purchase will get you a meal for 10-15฿. The northern half of the market sells non-food items like belts, handsaws, and motorcycle helmets. The best time to go is 3-6pm.
Anonta Worarittidit Rd. hosts markets along its sidewalks in the morning and at night. The morning market sells everything from pineapples to small turtles. The night market, primarily a row of food stalls next to the road, starts around 6pm, on Anonta Worarittidit Rd. outside the 7-Eleven, and extends around the corner on Pha Kong Rd; it’s open until around 9pm.
The Nan National Museum, in the beautiful white palace at the intersection of Suriyaphong and Pha Kong Rd., features informative exhibits in English on Nan’s history and hill tribes. Upstairs, Buddha images and a black elephant tusk are on display. (☎054 710 561. Entrance off Pha Kong Rd. Open daily 9am-4pm. 30฿.)
Nan’s ornate, detailed wats are among the most beautiful in northern Thailand. All are free, and open from dawn until late afternoon. Two of the most striking wats are within easy walking distance of the downtown area. Across from the musuem on Pha Kong Rd. is Wat Phra That Chang Kham, which is famed for its walking Buddha made of gold and an elephant-supported pagoda. The 400-year-old Wat Phumin, also on Pha Kong Rd., south of the museum, contains murals depicting Lanna culture. The circular building on the right houses bizarre statues depicting humans being tortured in hell.
You’ll have to leave town to visit some of the most famous wats . Charter a songthaew or motorcycle taxi (40-150฿), or rent transportation of your own. The distinctive chedi of Wat Phra That Chae Haeng shines 2km beyond the Nan River bridge. Constructed nearly 700 years ago, the wat is the oldest in the region. Southwest of town, the serene Wat Phra That Khao Noi has a standing Buddha surveying the valley below. The tiled terraces of the wat offer spectacular views. Don’t miss the intriguing stone figures on the hillside directly below the wat, alongside the immense serpent-lined staircase to the top.
The attraction at Wat Phaya Wat is the slightly lopsided old pagoda that leans parallel to the bending coconut palm. (Go west on Suriyaphong Rd. to Hwy. 101 and turn right soon after the bus station, immediately after a green sign for Phra That Khao Noi. Wat Phaya Wat is on the plain, while Wat Phra That Khao Noi is 2km up the road, on top of a hill.)
Back in town, the Thai Payap Project sells hill-tribe handicrafts from 15 villages in the Hattasin Shop on Mahawong Rd., across from the post office. The project also arranges homestays, during which travelers may live and work with a family in one of two villages. All proceeds go to community development projects in the area. (☎098 503 567. Open daily 9am-5pm.)
The best place to purchase silver is directly from the hill tribes, but if you can’t make the trip, Chompu Phuka has a showroom with hill-tribe silverware and fabrics. Follow Suriyaphong Rd. west out of town toward Phayao for 1km; the showroom is on the right opposite PT Gas Station. There are no English signs, but look for the wagon wheels in the stone fence surrounding the parking lot. (Open daily 8:30am-5:30pm.)
Locals insist that no visit to Nan is complete without a trip into the area’s rugged backcountry. They’re right. Just a few kilometers away from town, the scenery is some of the most beautiful—and least touristed—in northern Thailand. However, because the area is quite rural, there is little public transportation. You’ll have to rent a motorbike or hire a songthaew . Nan province is now almost entirely safe; though some mines remain buried in the most remote areas near the border with Laos, risks are minimal, especially on roads or trails. Getting lost is actually a greater danger, as English signs are sparse. Bring a detailed regional map, which you can find at Nan Guesthouse or the tourist office. In general, the roads are well-maintained and rarely busy. Combine that with the scenery, small towns, and lack of tourists, and Nan is a paradise for independent exploration.
For those who would prefer not to rent their own transportation, there is another terrific way to see the area. Fhu Travel , in town, leads expeditions around the province. A trek with Mr. Fhu is the best way to visit the Mlabri (Phi Tong Lueng, “Spirit of the Yellow Leaves”), a tribe found only in Nan and Phrae provinces. Year-round rafting on the Nan River through Mae Charim National Park is also possible. (☎054 710 636; www.fhutravel.com. 1-day trek to Mlabri territory 1400฿ each for 2 people, 800฿ each for 5 or more; 3-day trek 3200/1800฿, 1-day rafting trip 2300/1200฿.)
Using public transportation: take a bus from Nan to Pua (1hr., every hr. 5am-6pm, 40฿), then catch a songthaew to Bor Kleua (first songthaew departs between 8 and 10am, and others leave infrequently throughout the day; 50฿). Return transportation is difficult, as you’ll have to wait for a passing songthaew to flag down. Motorbike rental available at the Yamaha dealership in city of Nan. If traveling by motorbike, leave Nan to the northeast, crossing the bridge north of the hospital. When you come to a T intersection, take a left, following signs for Rte. 1169 to Santisuk. After about 30km, you’ll reach another T intersection. Turn left to remain on Rte. 1169. After another 10km, turn right for Rte. 1081 to Bor Kluea. To get to the village, wait until you see an intersection with a well-marked sign for Rte. 1256 and Doi Phukha National Park, and turn left, leaving Rte. 1081. To return to Nan from Pua by motorbike, take a left onto Rte. 1056, at the intersection near Pua. Do not follow the large marked signs to Nan unless you want to take the highway back (60km). Follow signs for either Bor Kluea or Santisuk. Rte. 1056 turns into Rte. 1081, then Rte. 1169. In Santisuk (20km past the Silaphet waterfall), turn right onto Rte. 1169, and continue 30km back to Nan. Make a final right turn just before the bridge.
The best way to experience Nan’s scenery is to explore Doi Phukha National Park, 85km from Nan. The park is home to the Hmong and Mien tribes, and contains a plethora of waterfalls and caves. Its most prized attraction is the extremely rare Chomphu Phukha tree (Bretschneidera sinensis), which blooms in February with foot-long clusters of red-veined, hibiscus-shaped flowers. Some choose to use public transportation to view the park, while the more adventerous rent motorbikes. Either way, the views are well worth the extra baht it takes to get around.
Though public transportation may be the easier way to see the park, it severely limits a traveler’s flexibility and there is no assured return transportation. Still, the scenery from the bus as it winds through the park is breathtaking, and you can disembark at any point along the way. If you decide to get off, the best place is at the Chomphu tree, 30km from Pua. From there, it’s a 2km walk downhill to the park office and visitor’s center, with a scenic viewpoint, restrooms, campsites, and nature trail.
A much better way to explore Doi Phukha National Park is by motorbike. The 5-7hr. loop is on well-paved back roads. Be sure to bring along a detailed regional map, along with sunblock and water. Also, make sure the motorbike you’re renting has good brakes and alignment. Ask for a helmet with a drop-down visor. It’s wise to fill up the gas tank in Nan, even though there are gas stations in Bor Kleua and Pua.
Each segment of the motorbike ride through the national park showcases a different aspect of Nan province’s famed landscape. The gradual climb on Route 1169 passes smiling farmers working on the hillsides. Narrow ridgelines, surrounded on all sides by views that stretch for kilometers, characterize the ride on Route 1081, which eventually weaves down to the tiny brookside village of Bor Kluea, with food and gas facilities. While there, be sure to check out the town’s natural salt pits. Route 1256 leads to Pua (47km), runs directly through Doi Phukha National Park, and goes over a couple of mountains. Along the way, you’ll pass a large shrine (on your left 15km from Bor Kluea), the famous Chomphu tree, and a camping area (2km down the road from the Chomphu tree) with a viewpoint and nature trail. The park office, 3km past the camping area on the right, is next to the park’s main entrance (admission 200฿). Pua is 25km farther along Rte. 1256.
 |
 |
 |
 |
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Foursquare
Newsletter
RSS Feed
Overview