Fajardo Overview

Most travelers simply zip through Fajardo on their way to Vieques and Culebra and never see the real city. But Fajardo and its surrounding area deserve a closer look. In the hills above sits Las Croabas, a fishing village and informal port where fishermen wait to shuttle visitors to small islands nearby. To the north, the Las Cabezas de San Juan nature reserve offers visitors a tour of the region’s ecosystems and a glimpse of a restored 19th-century lighthouse. Additionally, the reserve’s Laguna Grande bay is one of the few places in the world to see the incredible phenomenon of bioluminescence. Closer to the city, between Hwy. 987 and Fajardo Bay, sits Villa Marina, a busy port full of seafood restaurants and yachtsmen ready to take you on a snorkeling excursion. Even the congested downtown area is full of excellent Puerto Rican cafeterías, and its beautiful, newly-renovated town square and mayor’s office may be a sign of better things to come.

It is almost impossible to get around Fajardo without a car. Getting to one sight should be no problem, but visiting multiple destinations on public transportation will be frustrating and time-consuming.

• Flights: Fajardo’s tiny airport (☎863-1011) sends even tinier planes to Culebra, San Juan, St. Croix, St. Thomas, and Vieques. Most airlines sell tickets by phone or at the airport. Reserve in advance or the flight may not leave. To reach the airport, take the main entrance to central Fajardo, then follow signs. Parking $9.10 per 24hr.
• • Air Flamenco (☎801-8256) flies to Culebra (7am, noon, 5:45pm; $30, round-trip $60). MC/V.
  • Isla Nena (☎877-812-5144) flies to Culebra (15min.; 1-2 per day; $30, round-trip $60) and Vieques (10min.; on demand only; $25, round-trip $50). Open daily 8am-5pm. MC/V.
  • Vieques Air Link (☎1-888-901-9247) sends flights on demand 6am-6pm. To: Culebra (30min.; 3 per day; $28, round-trip $54), St. Croix (45min.; 2 per day; $83, round-trip $163), and Vieques (15min.; 8 per day; $23, round-trip $42). AmEx/MC/V.
• Ferries: The Puerto Rican Port Authority (☎863-0705 or 863-4560) runs ferries from Puerto Real to the Spanish Virgin Islands. To get to Puerto Real from central Fajardo take C. Celis Aguilera (parallel to C. Muñoz Rivera) away from the plaza, then turn right on Rte. 195 (1 mi.). To avoid the traffic downtown, from Hwy. 3 take the 2nd Fajardo exit onto Av. Conquistador, then turn right onto Rte. 194, then turn left on Rte. 195. Long-term parking $5 per day. Públicos from Fajardo go to the port ($1) and are usually waiting when a boat comes in. Travel With Padin taxi service takes passengers from the San Juan airport to the ferry terminal ($60 for 2 people, $65 for 4 people). Call for reservations (☎644-3091).
• Passenger ferries go to Culebra (1hrs.; daily 9am, 3, 7pm; $2.25, ages 3-11 and 60-74 $1, over 75 free) and Vieques (1hrs.; M-F 9:30am, 1, 4:30, 8pm; Sa-Su 9am, 3, 6pm; $2, ages 3-11 and 60-74 $1, over 74 free). Cargo ferries take a few cars to Culebra (M-Tu and Th 4am and 4:30pm; W and F 4, 9:30am, 4pm; $27) and Vieques (M-F 4, 9:30am, 4pm; $26). Reservations are required for cars and should be made at least 3 weeks in advance. For passenger ferries, show up at least 1hr. in advance. When possible, buy round-trip tickets. Office open M-F 7:30am-11:30am and 12:30pm-4pm. Reservations office open M-F 8-11am and 1-3pm.
• Públicos: Públicos are based out of the Terminal de Transportación Pública Fajardo, on C. Valera between Banco Popular and the Plaza de Armas. To: Ceiba (10min., $1); Humacao (45min., $2.45); Las Croabas (5min., $1); Luquillo (15min., $0.75-1); San Juan (1hr., $3.50). If you take a público from San Juan to the ferry terminal, ask the driver to go all the way to the port. If you go to the terminal early in the day and ask around, you can find one heading to any major sight. They can also be flagged down on Rte. 194 or 195.
• Taxis: Públicos are the only vehicles that function as taxis in Fajardo.

• Car Rental: L&M Car Rental, Hwy. 3 Km 43.7 (☎860-6868), just south of plaza with movie theatres. Compact cars $40 per day. Insurance $16. 25+. Open M-F 8am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-2pm in El Conquistador Hotel. AmEx/D/MC/V. Another recommended local company is World Car Rental, C. Unión 466 (☎860-4808 or 863-9696), entrance on C. Cometa, about a 7min. walk from the ferry terminal. Compact cars $38 per day. Insurance $12. 21+. Open daily 7:30am-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Orientation And Practical Information

Fajardo is difficult to navigate without a car. Highway 3 runs north to Luquillo and west to San Juan. Fajardo is best described as having four parts: a bustling port and marina, a small town center, city sprawl along the highway, and a more peaceful fishermen’s port and beach in Las Croabas to the north. All of these are located to the east, between the highway and the sea. The first exit off Hwy. 3 goes to Route 194, which travels parallel to Hwy. 3 and passes the center before intersecting Hwy. 3 again. The second major exit leads to Av. Conquistador, which goes to the Wyndham hotel. The third and most prominent exit deposits visitors on Route 195, which passes the plaza then continues to the ferry dock. Route 987 originates from Rte. 195, passes Villa Marina (a major port with a shopping center), intersects Av. Conquistador, and leads to the beach, the nature reserve, and Las Croabas.

• Banks: Banco Popular (☎863-0101), on C. Garrido Morales at the corner with C. Valero. ATM. Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-noon.
• Laundromat: Wash n’ Post, C. 2 #100, Local 4 (☎863-1995), in the Santa Isidra Shopping Center in Villa Marina. Wash $2, dry $0.25 per 4min. Change available. Wash-and-fold service $0.85 per lb., min. $7. Fax 1st page $2, additional pages $1. Also Western Union and FedEx. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 11am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Police: ☎863-2020 or 863-2430. Across from the público station. Open 24hr.
• Pharmacy: Super Farmacia Libertad, C. Muñoz Rivera 206 (☎863-0810). Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 11am-5pm.
• Hospital: Hospital San Pablo del Este (☎863-0505), on Rte. 194 just off Av. Conquistador. The largest hospital in eastern Puerto Rico. 24hr. emergency room.
• Internet Access: Pizz@net (☎860-4230), in Villa Marina. Internet $3 per 30min., $5 per hr. Lunch combo with huge personal pizza and soda $5. ATM. Pool table and arcade games. M-Th 11am-10pm, F-Sa 11am-11pm. MC/V.
• Post Office: Large regional headquarters Correo Principal, C. Garrido Morales 113 (☎655-8779), next to Banco Popular. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 8am-4pm. In Puerto Real, C. Unión 477 (☎863-1827). General Delivery available. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm, Sa 8am-noon. Postal Code: In Central Fajardo: 00738. In Puerto Real: 00740.

Accommodations And Camping

Fajardo’s claim to fame as a tourist destination may be its attractive accommodations. The city is home to several guesthouses and inns that offer clean, comfortable, amenity-filled rooms for a fraction of what you’d pay in a more touristy town.

• Passion Fruit Bed & Breakfast, Route 987 (☎801-0106 or toll-free 800-670-3196; fax 801-1633; www.passionfruitbb.com), in Las Croabas between El Conquistador hotel and Las Croabas waterfront. Every morning, Gladys welcomes her guests like a member of the family with too-good-to-be-true breakfasts on the sunny pool terrace. Bright, clean rooms with queen beds, tropical plants, cable TV, and A/C. Each is named for a prominent Fajardeño. Gorgeous, clean swimming pool, poolside gazebo and bar, 2nd fl. lobby, balcony, and Wi-Fi. Doubles $85; quads $130. AmEx/MC/V.
• Ceiba Country Inn, Rte. 977 Km 1.2 (☎885-0471; prinn@juno.com), 5 mi. from Fajardo in Ceiba. When you exit Hwy. 53, turn right toward the mountains (not left toward Ceiba). On a clear day you can see St. Thomas from this quiet mountain lodge. The outdoor patio is a tranquil place to enjoy breakfast, and the indoor seating area and cocktail lounge offers TV and board games. Large, sparkling-clean rooms include phone, A/C, and fridge, as well as wicker furniture and large showers. Continental breakfast included. Singles $75, doubles $85. Extra person $10. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Fajardo Inn, Parcelas Beltrán 52 (☎860-6000; www.fajardoinn.com), off Rte. 195; look for signs pointing uphill to the Inn. With a big, white building, grand palm-lined entrance road, and manicured grounds, the Fajardo Inn looks like an expensive resort—with prices that rival those at guesthouses. All rooms with A/C and cable TV; some with kitchenette and hot tub. 2 restaurants and a bar. Puerto Rican families flock to the massive waterpark with wave pool, slide, hot tub, swim-up snack bar, mini-golf, and playground. Fitness center ($5); tennis and basketball courts. Internet ($5.35 per 30min, free Wi-Fi.) and coin laundry available. Doubles $118-135; triples $156; 6-person $189; suites $156-354. Extra person $10. AmEx/MC/V.
• Puerto Real Guest House, C. Cometa 476 (☎863-0018 or 617-8755). Homey is an understatement for this small guesthouse—the lobby is actually someone’s living room. Amazing amenities for the price: A/C, cable TV, and small fridge. Call ahead, as owner is often away during the day when guest rooms are in use. Doubles $50; quads $60. Tax included. Cash only.
• Anchor’s Inn, Rte. 987 Km 2.6 (☎863-7200; frenchman@libertypr.net). A French couple manages this small guesthouse adjacent to their nautical seafood restaurant by the same name. Rooms are worn, with antique furniture, but they supply cable TV and A/C at reasonable prices. Doubles $62; quads $73; 6-person room $97. Tax included. AmEx/MC/V.
• Balneario Seven Seas (☎863-8180), off Rte. 987 (see Beaches), has an RV park and a large field for tents. The beach and the tent area are close together, so be prepared for neighboring beachgoers during the day. $10 per tent.

Food

The city center is filled with countless small cafeterías where you can find filling Puerto Rican lunches for under $5, though most close mid-afternoon. Further afield, the waterfront in Las Croabas is a great choice for weekend nights, when locals eat out and most restaurants turn into lively bars. For groceries, try Grande on Hwy. 3, just east of the intersection with Rte. 195. (☎863-3420. Open M-Sa 6am-10pm, Su 11am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

• La Estación: Una Parilla New Yorican, Hwy. 987 Km 3.5 (☎863-4481), in La Croabas. This brainchild of a former Brooklyn restaurant manager and a Manhattan chef offers the best food and ambience for miles, not to mention the best prices. Patrons sit out on a cottage-like cedar terrace with tiki lamps, wicker rocking chairs and elegant patio furniture. Specials include charcoal grilled meat and seafood as well as Big Apple favorites gone Puerto Rican, like Nathan’s NY Hot Dog wrapped in bacon and avocado ($3). Whole grilled fish or churrasco steak $13. Open M and Th-F 5pm-11pm, Sa-Su 3pm-2am. Bar open 1hr. later than kitchen on weekdays. MC/V.
• Rosa’s Seafood, C. Tablazo 536 (☎863-0213 or 627-4077). Heading into Puerto Real on C. Unión (Rte. 195), take a right at the last turn-off before the archway; it’s at the end of the street, on the right. Widely acknowledged as the best seafood restaurant in Puerto Real and one of the 10 best on the island. Enjoy fresh seafood—including conch and octopus ($18) and lobster ($26)—on white tablecloths in this big, orange house. Green salad $1.25. Johnnycake $0.40. Seafood entrees $16-26. Small selection of non-seafood entrees $8.50-19. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 11am-10pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Pan de Vida Café & Pizza, C. Unión 1 (863-2437). A small bakery with mod white chairs specializing in delicious wheat bread sandwiches ($2.50-4.25) and pizzas ($3.25-4). Also sells simple breakfast items ($1-2), calzones ($4-6), and a small selection of fresh and tasty wheat bread pastries ($1). Open daily 5am-10pm. MC/V; min. $10.
• Cafetería y Restaurant del Pueblo, C. Unión 60 (☎860-2212). One the nicest cafeterías in Fajardo and one of the only ones that stays open into the early evening. Puerto Rican entrees ($5-15) are huge and delicious. Green-and-white tile tables and wicker chairs add a touch of class. Breakfast, which curiously includes cheeseburgers, $3-5. Sandwiches $2-7. Open M-F 6am-5pm, Sa 6am-3pm. MC/V.
• Lolita’s, Hwy. 3 Km 41.3 (☎889-0250 or 889-5770), is technically in Luquillo, but it’s closer to Fajardo and a welcome change from standard seafood fare. The popular Mexican restaurant serves up all the favorites, from tacos to enchiladas to fajitas. Sit at breezy, tiled booths alongside open windows, or enjoy more formal seating in the main room. Lolita’s is packed at all times, but wait staff are well prepared with microphones and earpieces. Tacos $1.75 with any meat or soy. Most burritos $3-4. Entrees $7-20. Margaritas $6. Open M-Th and Su 11am-10pm; F-Sa 11am-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
• Golden Bagel Bistro & Café, C. Unión 171 (☎860-8987), is a little out of place in Fajardo. Even the food seems more east coast US than east coast Puerto Rico, with a variety of sandwiches on bagels, croissants, and wraps ($3.50-8), and big American breakfasts ($2.50-5). But don’t worry—you can still get your entrees ($6-8) served with rice and beans. The cheerful, modern interior is a lovely place to enjoy a casual lunch. Soups and salads $3.25-6.50. Open M-F 6am-6pm, Sa-Su 6am-8:30pm.

Sights

Las Cabezas De San Juan Nature Reserve. This 316-acre nature reserve is by far the most interesting land attraction in Fajardo. The reserve contains seven different ecological zones—coral reef, Thalassia bed, sandy beach, rocky beach, mangrove forest, lagoon, and dry forest—in addition to over 40 species of fish, more than 100 species of birds, and several species of mammals. Most visitors will at the very least see tiny fiddler crab and huge iguanas. Although Hurricanes Hugo (1989) and George (1998) destroyed over 80% of the reserve, it has recovered quickly and seems to be thriving again.

The privately run Conservation Trust of Puerto Rico maintains the reserve and offers 2hr. guided tours through all seven ecosystems, including an informative tram ride through the dry forest, a 30min. stroll along a boardwalk over the mangroves, a stop at a rocky point overlooking the ocean, and a visit to the small lighthouse museum. The lighthouse, which has been in continuous operation since 1882 but was relegated to the Conservation Trust in 2007, affords views of La Cordillera, Culebra, Vieques and St. Thomas. The only other way to see the reserve is to take a kayak trip through Laguna Grande, the bioluminescent bay that occupies over 100 acres of the park. The Conservation Trust does not offer kayak tours, but it is possible to arrange your own rental (see Kayaking). Night tours of wildlife and the lighthouse, featuring a 30min. presentation on bioluminescence, are offered Thursday to Saturday; inquire about times and prices. (Off Rte. 987 just past Seven Seas beach . M-F ☎722-5882, ext. 240, Sa-Su ☎860-2560; www.fideicomiso.org. Reservations required—call at least a week in advance. Tours 2hr., Tu-Su Spanish 9:30, 10, 10:30am, 2pm; English 2pm. $7, under 11 $4. AmEx/MC/V; min. $25)

Bahía De Las Croabas. Despite its proximity to commercialized Fajardo, Las Croabas retains the feel of a small fishing village. Here local fishermen still head out every morning to catch the sea creatures that take center stage in the restaurants along Rte. 987. All of the action takes place in the morning, but in the afternoon the boardwalk becomes a serene place to walk. If you come early (before 6am), it may be possible to negotiate with one of the fishermen for an inexpensive trip to the small, raw islands of Icacas, Palomino and Palominito. (At the end of Rte. 987. Públicos from central Fajardo take 10min. and cost $0.65-0.75.)

Beaches

On a sunny day, Fajardo’s public beach, Balneario Seven Seas, Rte. 987 Km 5, glistens as one of the best on the mainland; the water really does look like it has seven different colors. However, when the camping area is full on weekends or holidays, the beach may fill with litter. There is good snorkeling on the far right side. While this is a nice beach, much more stunning stretches of sand are a $2 ferry ride away on Vieques or Culebra. (☎863-8180. Trash cans and several shelters. Lifeguards daily 9am-5pm. Parking $3. Open 24hr.)

Water Sports

Most visitors to Fajardo head straight toward the sea and La Cordillera, a series of smaller outlying islands that extend from the eastern tip of Puerto Rico to the Spanish Virgin Islands. The most popular among these are Cayo Icacos, Cayo Lobos and Isla Palominos, although the latter is owned by the Wyndham Resort and theoretically closed to visitors. These beautiful tropical islands and their surrounding coral reefs provide opportunities for snorkeling, diving, fishing, swimming, or just relaxing. Charters usually have their own favorite spots and they will take you wherever the weather looks good and the crowds are relatively small. (See “Land no!”.)

Boating

Fajardo has two enormous marinas, Villa Marina and Puerto del Rey (about 2 mi. apart). Many of the boats anchored here offer charter expeditions to La Cordillera with snorkeling, swimming, and sunbathing. Some boats are listed below; check a recent issue of ¡Qué Pasa! for the most current offerings. Most boat owners operate out of their sailboat homes—call in advance to make a reservation.

• Caribbean School of Aquatics (☎383-5700). Captain Greg Korwek offers snorkeling trips on the Fun Cat (includes all equipment, lunch, and transportation from San Juan; $89, without transportation $69) and diving trips on the Island Safari (includes 2 dives, equipment, and picnic lunch; $125 with and $179 without certification). The mast of the boat reads “Sail-Dive-Party,” and that’s exactly what you’ll do. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Erin Go Bragh (☎860-4401; www.egbc.net), Puerto del Rey Marina, dock #1204. Guests have been known to return to the hospitality of Captain Bill and his wife Ingrid, a knowledgeable earth scientist, aboard their 50 ft. sailboat. Trips to 2 islands on La Cordillera include gourmet barbecue lunch, homemade snacks, open bar, fishing poles, and snorkel gear. 6 person max. Trips (10am-5pm) $85 per person, 2-person min. Sunset cruises (5-7pm) $75, 4-person min. Dinner cruises (5-9pm) $85, 4-person min. Also offers overnight charters to Vieques and Culebra; call for info. AmEx/MC/V.
• Getaway (☎860-7327), a 32 ft. catamaran in Villa Marina. Trips (10am-3:30pm) include soda, lunch, and a piña colada; $60 cash, $65 with credit card. Sunset cruise $45. MC/V.
• Traveler (☎863-2821), a 50 ft. catamaran (with a waterslide) operating out of Villa Marina. Trips (10am-3:30pm) include snorkeling equipment, lunch, and an all-you-can-eat salad bar. $59 cash, $65 with credit card; ages 5-12 $45. MC/V.
• Salty Dog (☎717-6378 or 717-7259; www.saltydreams.com), in Villa Marina. Sails to Cayo Icacos or Palomino Island. Trips include lunch, drinks, snorkel equipment and “Pain killers,” their rum punch and cocktail creation. $59 per person. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Ventajero 4 (☎645-9129; www.sailpuertorico.com). 52 ft. sloop at Puerto del Rey dock #1267, holds up to 6 people. Trips (10am-5pm) include beer, snorkeling equipment, and a full Puerto Rican lunch. Up to 6 guests; $550 per trip. MC/V.

Diving

• Puerto Rico Diver Supply, A-E6 Santa Isidra III (☎863-4300; www.prdiversupply.com), in front of Villa Marina Shopping Center, sends their 36 ft. boat on regular expeditions to La Cordillera (2-tank dive $85, 1-tank dive $55, snorkeling $69). Discover Scuba 1-tank dive $95. Snorkeling trip $55. Also rents snorkeling and diving equipment. Open daily 8am-5pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Sea Ventures Dive Centers (☎863-3483 or 800-739-3483; www.divepuertorico.com), at Puerto del Rey. Sends out 2-tank dives every morning ($89, with gear $99), but the location changes daily due to weather and visibility conditions. Discover Scuba package $150. Transportation from San Juan round-trip $25 per person. 4-day PADI certification course $450. Trips every morning; visit the office early to arrange dives in person. Open daily 7:45am-1pm, later if an afternoon dive is scheduled. AmEx/MC/V.

Kayaking

The Fajardo area is home to one of Puerto Rico’s three amazing bioluminescent bays. All tours are done through private companies. One reliable outfitter is Yókahu Kayak (☎604-7375 or 863-5374; www.yokahukayaks.com), which offers 2 hr. tours for $35 per person. (Open M-Sa 8am-5pm. MC/V.)

Nightlife And Festivals

Despite its size, Fajardo has no real nightlife scene. A few restaurants along Rte. 987 double as bars and stay open late on weekend nights. Racar Seafood, Rte. 987 Km 6.7, next to Las Croabas, has live music from 7pm to midnight on Saturday nights. (Beer $1.50-2. Open M-F and Su 8am-around 9:30pm, Sa 8am-midnight). For a more lively scene, head to the active Marina Liquor Store, in Villa Marina Shopping Center. A motley collection of yachters and Puerto Rican men gather at this liquor/convenience/cigar store to sit at outdoor tables and drink their purchases. Come on Friday or Saturday night for live Latin music 10pm-2am. (☎860-8112. Beer from $1. Mixed drinks $4-5. Open W-Th 8am-midnight, F-Sa 8am-2am. MC/V.) Sharky’s Sports Bar, next to the liquor store, looks like a standard sports lounge from the outside. But don’t be deceived: with a long full bar and a dance floor, this is the place to take salsa lessons on Thursday, sing karaoke on Friday, listen to live rock with a young crowd on Saturday, and slow dance to Bohemian traditional music with a more mature clientele on Sunday. (☎860-8112 or 309-6007. Beer $2-3. Mixed drinks $3-5. Open W-Th 6pm-midnight, F-Sa 6pm-2am. MC/V.)

Every Presidents’ Day weekend (mid-Feb.), from Friday to Monday, Puerto del Rey hosts the Caribbean’s largest in-water boat exhibition, with local music and an incredible display of boats and boat merchandise. (For more information, call ☎860-1000, ext. 4214. Tickets $10 per person.)