The Northern Coast Cát Bà Island

Home of Cát Bà Island National Park , this island is a tourist trap with charm. Backpackers, families, and Vietnamese vacationers alike have descended in increasing numbers on its 350 sq. km of natural splendor. During winter, the island turns into a construction site as more and more restaurants and hotels go up for the next tourist season. Fortunately, the area between the bay and the mountains is small enough to curb this growth, and Cát Bà town may be able to maintain its small-town feel. In any case, the natural splendor of the island keeps bringing in visitors, and for good reason. Guides and locals are quick to point out that Cát Bà is not just a larger version of Hå Long Bay. The island has an impressive array of limestone mountains, overgrown with jungle and ringed by fine-sand beaches. Its fertile, rolling hills make it ideal for the cultivation of rice, maize, and lychee. Despite the hordes of Vietnamese and foreign tourists wandering through the streets, especially in July and August, Cát Bà is the ideal place for rigorous hikes and boat excursions into Hå Long Bay, or simply for relaxing on the beach.

Though some tour companies will tell you otherwise, this little island paradise can be reached independently from Hà Nÿi, as well as through organized tours. Independent travelers can take a ferry from H=i Phòng (100,000) or an inexpensive bus-and-boat deal from Hoang Long Bus Company in Hà Nÿi (leaves from Luong Yen Bus Station; 4hr.; 120,000). Another option is to hop on a tour from Hà Nÿi through Hå Long Bay and then jump ship once on Cát Bà island (usually on the third day of the tour). On the island, motorbikes and organized tours are the easiest and often only option for getting around.

• Ferries: Public ferries from Cát Bà run to Hå Long City and H=i Phòng.
• • To Hå Long City: The public ferry leaves from the main harbor (2hr.; 7am; 70,000). Alternatively, hitch a ride with an organized tour heading for Hà Nÿi (US$3-4). The tour boats arrive at and leave from the dock in the old harbor, past Cát Cò Beaches I and II. Head up the road past the GPO and veer left at the top of the hill. The road winds 1km to the old harbor and tour dock.
  • To H=i Phòng: In Cát Bà, purchase tickets at the S®ng Bi]n Hotel to the left of Sun Flower One, on the last street on the left before the road heads to the beach (☎888 671; fax 888 671; open daily 6am-8pm). Alternatively, head to the office on the main stretch, just past the corner of the last northward branch of the road. All offices have stable prices for both slow boats (2hr.; 5:45am, 1pm; 80,000) and hydrofoils (1hr.; 3:15pm; 100,000).
  • To H=i Phòng via Cát H=i: H=i Phòng can also be reached via Cát H=i (another island, closer to the mainland) by hopping onto a ferry from Phù Long, on the opposite side of the island from Cát Bà town. Ferries from Phù Long run daily to Cát H=i (15min.; every 90min. 7am-5pm; 8000 per person with motorbike, 2000 per extra passenger). Smaller ferries make the run as often as they fill up, which is about every 15-30min. Ferries from Cát H=i to H=i Phòng leave about 30min. after the arrival of those from Cát Bà and go to Ding Vuu, 6km from H=i Phòng (45min; 14,000 per person with motorbike, 2000 per extra passenger). To reach the pier on the island, go toward the national park, passing the entrance and then keeping left as the road forks. Continue along the main highway, circling around a mountain. Phù Long is 15km from the park entrance. Buses from Cát Bà town make the journey daily.
• Buses: To reach the national park, catch a tour bus (US$6-10), which usually leaves only when full. Otherwise, scope out the public buses that run from Cát Bà town to the park entrance. Bus drivers assume foreigners to be part of an organized tour and usually don’t charge anything. The official fare starts at 5000.
• Motorcycle: Due to accidents, motorcycles on the island are no longer rented to foreigners. A motorbike with a driver is probably your best bet to get to the park (US$5 per day; US$3 per half-day; 40,000-50,000 round-trip to the park).
• Boats: Chartering a boat runs US$30-40 per day. You can inquire about speedboats at any hotel, but the Noble House is the best place to design your own tour.

Orientation

Cát Bà island is 50km east of H=i Phòng and 60km southwest of Hå Long City. Cát Bà town lies at the southern tip of the island. The town’s beaches run along the eastern coast, while the old harbor and tourist-boat dock is still farther east (and then north) along the shore. Nearly 17km directly north of the town is the entrance to Cát Bà National Park. Fifteen kilometers west of the park is the town and port of Phù Long. Small villages are scattered throughout the island. Though Cát Bà’s roads sometimes have names, they are seldom used and are rarely known even by islanders. Instead, landmarks serve as the primary means of orientation. In Cát Bà, the main ferry dock is the center of the small city’s universe. Three roads branch perpendicularly off the main street. The central street houses the GPO on its eastern corner and a slew of restaurants and hotels near its southern edge. The street farther east is home to the Prince and Sunflower One Hotels, along with other housing and food options. The street that runs along the western edge of town, near the fishing dock, houses the town market and currency exchange shops. The harbor beachfront stretches for about 400m on either side of the ferry pier, while the town’s three beaches start about 300m east.

Practical Information

• Tourist Office: Similar tourist services are offered at most hotels and restaurants. The excellent English-speaking owner at Hoang Anh restaurant and Mr. L£ at the M• Ngßc Restaurant and Hotel are both locals who organize and lead tours around the bay, and each can provide information about the surrounding area. The Australian owner of the Noble House sells alternative tours of the bay (led by an English-speaking captain) that are adaptable to customers’ wishes. Tour lengths can range from a few hours to overnight. The owner of the Th ng Loi Hotel is informative and organized; his tours, however, generally have no English speakers on board.
• Currency Exchange: Most hotels will exchange dollars for Œ·ng, but at damaging rates. There is no ATM on the island. Head to the V´ Bình Gold and Silver Exchange (☎888 641), on the road past the Fishing Pier and across from the market, for the best exchange rates to cash traveler’s checks (2% commission) or for MC/V cash advances and debit card withdrawals (3% commission). Open daily 7am-10pm. The Prince Hotel also offers cash advances, but with a hefty 5% charge.
• Emergency: Police: ☎888 239. Ambulance: ☎888 239.
• Pharmacy: Hi_u Th#c (☎888 896) is in the center of town, next to the Flightless Bird bar. Open daily 6am-11pm. Vang Bac (☎888 308), 500m down the National Park Highway, doubles as a foreign exchange center. Open daily 9am-11pm. For a larger selection, head to the stalls in the town market.
• Medical Services: The town hospital (☎888 239) is 1km up the road to the right of the beach, right after the ferry dock. When the road splits past the hill, hook a left.
• Telephones: Inside the GPO, and in smaller offices scattered around town. Open M-F 7am-1pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-9pm. International calls are least expensive at Ph™£ng Ph™£ng, located across from the port (around 5000 per min.).
• Internet Access: There are pricey Internet parlors along both the main beachfront road and its main artery, which shoots off from across the dock next to the GPO. Most shops charge 200-300 per min. for a slow dial-up connection. For slightly lower prices, head to the town market. A yellow sign points toward Thành åt Net (☎0912 732 489), near the edge of the market, and about 7m from where the road starts to climb. (Open daily 8am-midnight. 15,000 per hr.) Up the road from the post office, the Prince Hotel (☎688 150) has the same rate and is open 24hr.
• Post Office: GPO (☎888 566), across the street from the ferry dock and on the corner of the main road that flows from the beach into the island. M-Sa calls to Canada, the UK, and the US cost US$0.70 per min. for the first 6min., then US$0.07 per second; Su and holidays US$0.55/0.05. Open daily 7am-10pm.

Accommodations

Since the introduction of electricity in 1998, hotels have sprung up all over town, filling the main road along the beach and spreading into the side-streets. Though options are numerous, especially during the winter and the beginning of the week, Vietnamese tourists take over the island on weekends. Independent travelers should reserve ahead on these nights and be prepared to pay a hefty price. Though some hotels and guesthouses standardize costs throughout the week and sometimes even throughout the year, others triple or quadruple their prices for the summer weekends. Nonetheless, plenty of affordable and quality options remain open from Sunday until Wednesday or Thursday. But beware—while some hotels and guesthouses are happy to accommodate budget travelers during summer weeks, others expect such visitors to vacate their rooms for high-paying or pre-booked customers. Ask ahead to avoid unpleasant surprises. Keep in mind that most rooms are spacious enough for three people.

• The Noble House (☎888 363; fax 888 570), next door to the GPO. Run by a friendly Australian and Vietnamese couple, this hotel, restaurant, and bar has enormous doubles with balconies overlooking the bay. Rooms have A/C, satellite TV, fridge, homemade furniture, and new private baths. With great food and drink and a friendly staff, it’s tempting not to leave. Summer rooms US$15; winter US$10.
• Giang S£n Hotel (☎888 214; giangsonhotelcb@hp.vnn.vn), opposite the fishing dock. There are 2 kinds of rooms, both with snow-white twin beds, dark wooden frames, satellite TV, and clean but cramped bathrooms with shower. Front rooms have great balconies overlooking the bay, but their neighbors, which cost about the same, lack windows. Summer weekdays rooms US$10-12, weekend US$15-20; winter US$8-10.
• Th ng Loi Hotel (☎888 531), directly across from the dock. A great deal with great views. Clean, comfortable rooms in a newly renovated building. The English-speaking owner provides information about the island and books tours of the island and bay. Summer rooms M-Th US$10, F-Su US$17; winter US$6-7.
• Hotel Nam Ph™£ng (☎888 561), past the Flightless Bird Bar. Refreshingly steady prices for plain and slightly aged rooms, all with a bay view. A bit cheaper than other hotels, at almost the same quality. Summer rooms US$8; winter US$5.
• c Toàn Guest House (☎887 694; fax 295 489), at the end of the road that houses the market. A family-run guesthouse featuring large and homey rooms with A/C, TV, fan, and small private bath. Summer rooms US$12; winter US$9.
• Trà My Hotel (☎888 650), a few doors down from The Noble House. Yet another solid deal. Two beds, balcony, and even a vanity set for reasonable prices. Rooms have A/C, TV, and phones. Summer rooms US$12-25; winter $7-10.
• Princess Hotel (☎888 899; www.princeshotel-catba.com). Towering 200m from the water, this is the closest lodging to Cát Cò Beach. A typical Western-style hotel with generic rooms and a uniformed staff. Shiny furniture battles the dark interior of some rooms. Rents bicycles for 20,000 per hr. Smaller standard rooms US$16; deluxe rooms with double and twin beds, tub, and satellite TV US$25; suites with fridge, bathtub, and balcony US$30. MC/V.

Food

Since most visitors eat inferior hotel food as part of a tour package, Cát Bà’s restaurants see fewer foreigners than most Vietnamese tourist hot spots. Still, seafood restaurants (all with surprisingly good banana and mango pancakes) populate the island, offering the freshest fare. As always, a good rule of thumb is to follow the locals—just make sure that the restaurant is not part of a hotel. Try exploring one of the floating restaurants near the dock, though eating at one requires negotiating for a boat trip. Boatmen on the pier are willing to make the journey—you should be able to bargain their asking price down to 15,000-20,000. Otherwise, head farther down the pier along the railing. Two restaurants sit in the water and allow customers to grace their swishing floor by making the short sea-excursion on a floating walkway. More options with floating sidewalks are available at the old harbor, where tour boats dock. Keep in mind that you are paying for the ambience; you can get the same quality dishes for less along the town strip.

• Green Mango (☎887 151; greenmangocatba@yahoo.com), on the waterfront next to Ph™£ng Ph™£ng. Organic fine dining has arrived on Cát Bà. Vegetarian snacks, huge salads, and great pasta for great prices (30,000-100,000). Open 6:30am until the last bit of Egyptian shisha (60,000) is smoked.
• c Tuñn (☎888 783), on the main stretch, just down from the Family Hotel. Popular with Vietnamese weekend tourists. Friendly service and reasonable prices. The seafood is good and fresh—just point at the fish or crab you want from a big tank, and it’ll be ready in minutes. Check out the terrace seating upstairs (where most guests dine). Spring rolls 15,000. Fish 30,000. Crab 50,000. Open daily 6am-midnight.
• Hoàng Restaurant, on the waterfront strip past the Quang uc Family Hotel, has tasty seafood dishes (30,000-60,000) and large soups (8000-15,000). Same menu, same great food as everywhere else. The pineapple and banana pancakes (8000, with chocolate 10,000) easily seduces any sweet tooth. Open daily 6am-midnight.
• Cát Tiˆn (☎887 855), the second restaurant on the walk from town to the beach. Fair prices and flavorful seafood dishes. Soup 16,000-17,000. Crab 150,000-220,000 per kg. Fish 160,000-170,000 per kg. Tiger Beer 15,000. Open daily 6am-midnight.
• The Noble House Restaurant (☎888 363; fax 888 570), right next to the GPO. Praised by visitors in search of a splash of variety. The fresh fish is highly recommended over the beef. The homemade pizza is absolutely fantastic—try it with seafood toppings (40,000). The bar and terrace upstairs can make for a quiet evening or a rowdy night if a tour group stumbles in. The free pool table is an added bonus. Entrees 15,000-45,000. Breakfast all day 15,000. Fruit shakes and Tiger Beer 16,000. Open daily 6:30am-11pm or until the last customer leaves (even if that means dawn).
• Hu Düng Restaurant (☎888 407), 100m past the Princess Hotel. Pleasant ambience—like a French colonial estate transplanted to the jungle. Good seafood dishes (25,000-50,000) and Western omelette breakfasts. Open daily 6am-11pm.

Sights

In order to visit the island at your own pace, rent a motorbike with a driver (US$5-6 per day) from a hotel or restaurant. Make sure to have a specific plan of attack in mind. For a picturesque view of the ocean and waves crashing against the steep limestone shores, ask to make one leg of the journey along the coast. Otherwise, join up with a tour and ride around in their minibus (US$5-6). Apart from the bay itself, Cát Bà’s main attraction is its lush national park .

Hospital Cave. The “Army Hospital Cave” (Hoang Sòn) is 4km before Trung Trang Cave and 5km before the entrance to the national park. Built in the early 1960s, the chambers of the cave were used by the North Vietnamese during the war. A bunker door is left unlocked to allow visitors to pass into the 17 concrete chambers; they once served as wards, operating rooms, and even recreation rooms. Small steps lead to a large enclosure that could fit 100 people and served as the army’s cinema on weekends during the war. A small rectangular hole in the back functioned as a tiny swimming pool. Though the corridors are empty, they fill with the booming voice of the cave-keeper. Dressed in army attire, he enthusiastically imparts the area’s history to willing listeners in Vietnamese. Lucky guests may get to hear a Vietnamese folk song reverberate off the cave walls. Then again—many Vietnamese will tell you that the war ended before the hospital was ever used. We won’t tell you who to believe. (Open daily 8am-5pm. 20,000.)

Cát Cò Beaches. Deserted on most weekdays, Cát Bà’s beaches become crowded in the evenings—so the locals can avoid getting a tan—and are overrun with Vietnamese vacationers on weekends. However, the beaches remain quiet in the earlier and hotter hours of the day. Heading east along the main road leads to a fork. Turning left will carry you up a hill to Cát Cò I and II, while staying flat leads to the more resort-like Cát Cò III. The beaches themselves have great views, but they’re small and occasionally dirty.

A favorite spot of most Vietnamese, Cát Cò I lies closest to the town and receives the most visitors, who jostle for space on the small and oft-crowded shore. A fairly popular waterpark has recently been built on its shores. To escape the crowds of the waterpark and first beach, sneak up the stairs at the back or follow the red-and-white walkway, which winds about 700m around a limestone precipice and leads to Cát Cò II. Accessible only by foot and the farthest beach from the town, beautiful Cát Cò II remains the quietest of the three, even when crowds rush in for a swim on weekends. A walk under the rocky overhang leads to the other half of the beach, where a partly hidden entrance leaves it the best-protected of the town shores. Though there are no guesthouses on the beaches, you can ask the beach staff for permission to set up camp. (Prices are standardized on Cát Cò I and II: lounge chairs 20,000 per day; bathroom use 1000 per day; changing rooms 2000; showers 5000; small lockers 5000. Available for rent are various sizes of inflatable inner tubes 10,000 with 50,000 deposit; beds 30,000 with 100,000 deposit; kayaks 50,000. Prices are listed by the hr. Camping on Cát Cò II 120,000 per 24hr. Open daily during the summer 6am-7pm.)

Set in front of an overpriced beach resort lies Cát Cò III, a small beach whose natural beauty has been marred by its transformation into a tropical resort with bamboo bars and giant cocktail-drink umbrellas. This party beach is a bit more expensive than Cát Cò I and II. (To reach Cát Cò III, keep right as the road from the town heads east along the mountainside. From Cát Cò I, follow the gray walkway west toward Cát Bà town, opposite the red-and-white walk that connects the Cát Cò beaches, for 15min. Bathroom use 2000; showers 5000; beach chairs with umbrellas 15,000 per hr.)

Nightlife

Nightlife can be found on the main drag that runs along the water. Beer and refreshment stalls on the dock offer outdoor seating and an almost Riviera-like ambience, as long as you can ignore the numerous outdoor TVs.

• Flightless Bird Cafe (☎888 517), past Hoàng Restaurant toward the park. Backpackers and foreign tourists gravitate to this tiny, laid-back Vietnamese- and Kiwi-owned bar. Inside, darts, games, and a book exchange provide welcome low-key entertainment after a day of outdoor adventures. Spy on the bay and the people below from the balcony upstairs. Book exchange US$1. Orange juice 15,000. Tiger Beer 16,000. Mixed drinks 55,000. Open daily 6:30-11:30pm.
• Blue Note Bar (☎888 967). Go up the street from the GPO and hook the first right; this plush bar is around the corner. Keyboards and a guitar wait on the stage for spontaneous performances, while the menu sports recipes for many mixed drinks (40,000-50,000). The “Lady in Red,” with raw egg yolk, is an interesting experiment. Happy hour 5-6pm and 8-9pm (buy 2 get 1 free). Open daily 6am-midnight.