The Northern Coast Hå Long Bay

With its 1969 limestone islands and 23 grottoes, this natural marvel has twice been proclaimed a national heritage site and remains under the watchful eye of UNESCO. In 1994, the international committee first considered the bay a natural wonder, simply for its overwhelming beauty. Then, in 1998, a British geologist found that the bay had rare and precious geological features. Following his report, UNESCO once more placed Hå Long under consideration, and in July 1999 they recognized the site for its geological value, as well.

The legends of the origins of the bay’s name are as numerous as the guides and locals who tell them. Literally, Hå Long means D“Dragon Descending,” a name Let’s Go thinks is pretty awesome. As one story goes, the inhabitants of Hå Long once lived in peace with a family of dragons. The mother and her children would descend over the bay to play in the waters. When a drought came, the dragons would spit rainwater to fill the bay. One day, according to the legend, a group of pirates pillaged the village and attacked its inhabitants. Hearing the cries of the villagers, the dragons rushed to their rescue, spitting fire into the bay to ward off the invaders. When the fire hit the water, it turned into the gray limestone rocks that now fill the bay. Another story claims that the bay was formed when a dragon spat out divine pearls, forming a barrier against an invading Chinese fleet. Once the enemy had been turned back, the dragon settled in the bay and its scales turned into rocky islets. A third version of the story describes a clumsier and less heroic dragon: the mother is fabled to have fallen into the sea, her body and tail carving out holes in the land during her descent. These later filled with water, surrounding the untouched land and transforming it into a network of separate islands.

Located in a tropical monsoon zone, Hå Long is at its most beautiful in the early summer and autumn, when temperatures hover around the mid-twenties and blue skies are the norm. Though summers bring heat waves, late July and August also bring heavy rain and winds. It is easiest to reach the bay by tour from Hà Nÿi. However, these tours herd visitors around to major sites, allowing for little freedom, and many guides don’t speak English. It’s also possible to skip Hå Long City altogether and explore the bay from Cát Bà Island via H=i Phòng. Large-group private tours from Cát Bà cost the same and allow for much more flexibility.

There are three ways to explore the bay. The cheapest way as a solo traveler is to go via tour from Hà Nÿi. A more thorough and independent adventure embarks from either Hå Long City or Cát Bà. Either way, you’ll have to rent a boat at some point. Tourists can arrange their own plans (though such ventures are often costly without a big group) or pay for a package deal. Below are the tour options:

From Hà Nÿi

Agencies in Hà Ni sell packages with pre-arranged hotels, meals (not including drinks), and set schedules. Options run from one to three days in the bay. One-day tours include transportation, food, and a boat tour of Hå Long that stops at two caves. Two-day trips allow visitors to stay overnight on Cát Bà Island or on the boat. Three-day tours usually include a trek into the national park. Prices of tours vary widely. The most expensive and reputable agencies are TF Hanspan, 84 Mã Mñy (☎828 1996), its sister organization Kangaroo Cafe, 18 B=o Khánh (☎828 9931), ODC Travel, 63 Trúc Båch (☎715 0789; www.odctravel.com.vn), with a smaller branch at 43 Hàng Båc (☎824 3024), and Hà Ni Tour, 23 Yˆn Thái (☎928 7978). Three-day trips, including Cát Bà, cost around US$45-55. (All-inclusive. Max. group size 16.) Cheaper tours, often in larger groups and with lower-quality transportation, are run by Queen and Sinh Cafes (; US$30-40 for 3-day trips). More expensive trips can include a night or two on the boat, single rather than shared hotel rooms, and a long trek through Cát Bà national park. The large volume of travel agencies and frequent trips make it easy to book as little as a day in advance, but these reservations are not always reliable, and long treks are often cancelled for weather or if the tour doesn’t fill up. If your plans are changed on you, you should be entitled to a partial refund. More expensive trips tend to be more reliable and get fewer complaints.

From Cát Bà

One-day tours from Cát Bà island are usually run by locals instead of tourist companies and tend to visit the smaller but less touristed sights in the bay. Trips run US$37-40, but the fixed price is divided among the number of passengers on board (up to 5). Most slow-boat tours begin at 8am and end around 5pm, visit two to three caves, deserted beaches, and Monkey Island. Ask around the restaurants and hotels along the beach and the main road that houses the GPO to see who offers such tours. The Hoang Hoang Restaurant, near the Flightless Bird Bar, is home to a local named Zoom, who offers various tour options and is an excellent source of information about the bay. The same goes for the Australian who runs The Noble House and has been living on the island for 12 years. Beware of flashy sales pitches that fail to deliver informed, English-speaking guides.

From Hå Long City

Due to the amount of foot traffic going through Hå Long City each day, booking a private tour from the wharf can be quite stressful. You can avoid package tours by renting boats at the Bãi Cháy Tourist Wharf. (☎846 592. Boats priced by length of tour, desired destination, and the number of passengers onboard. 4hr. tour with 10-15 passengers 300,000 per boat or 40,000 per person; 6hr. 410,000/45,000; 8hr. 520,000/60,000. Entrance tickets are another 30,000. Open daily 6am-6:30pm.) Local boats can be rented at the pier, but often for higher prices (85,000-115,000 per hr.). Overnight excursions can be arranged for around US$115, including all meals and entrance tickets.

Orientation

The limestone islands of Hå Long are littered around the bay like divine pearls from a dragon’s mouth, or perhaps like the scattered scales of a clumsy dragon. The major landmarks in Hå Long Bay span from the northern point of Bãi Cháy to Cát Bà island. Four kilometers south of the tourist wharf in Hå Long City, Thiˆn Cung (Celestial Palace) is the northernmost cave of the UNESCO Heritage Site. Situated slightly south of the Celestial Palace is <u G!, the formation’s second cave. L™ H™£ng Islet, which resembles a teapot, is just a hop southwest of the second grotto. West of the teapot is the image of the stone dog, Chó á. The famous Gà Chßi (Fighting Cocks) lie 3km farther south. A longer journey toward S¸ng S#t (Cave of Surprises) passes <n bˆn Island on its western edge and <u Ng™i, the “man’s head,” before reaching the southernmost of the Bay’s three most popular caves. The “lovers’ grottoes”—Hang Trinh N (Virgin Cave) and Hang Tr#ng (Drum Cave)—are a few kilometers farther south. From the Virgin Cave, a short 2km float leads to the Hang Tiˆn Ông and the crystalline falls that lie inside. Five kilometers southwest is Ba Trái ào (Three Cursed Peaches), 4km east of which is Ba H<m. Back to the southeast are the restful shores of Monkey Island. From here, it is a 45min. slow curve, passing the southeastern tip of Cát Bà Island, to abandoned Cát Ông beach. From the beach a hop northeast lands at the boat pier in Cát Bà town.

Practical Information

During the stormy season, boats and tours can be canceled. Visitors are advised to check with the tourist center at Bãi Cháy Tourist Wharf before heading out. The tourist center also provides free maps, as well as information about the bay and the various tours that are available. (☎847 481. Open daily 7am-4pm.) The souvenir shop near the dock sells information books (50,000) about the bay. Most hotels and shops carry a hand-drawn picture map of the bay and some of its nearby attractions (10,000). Detailed World Heritage Maps (12,000-15,000) are available at the caves. All tourist boats will also have huge maps in their cabins.

Sights

Without a good guide or map, it is difficult to distinguish between the various rocks and islands of the bay. However, even the least-informed traveler can marvel at the sheer rock faces that protrude from the waters. The towering rock formations in the distance form a panoramic range of faded mountaintops, making the bay seem like an enormous lake. Breaking up the calm horizon, they shelter the bay from turbulent waters. Passing closer to remote islets, visitors can hear the low hum of insects singing in bush-topped cliffs. While some islands rise only slightly above sea level, others jump straight into the sky, towering 25m above the water. Near the mainland, the waters remain calm as boats slowly meander through Hå Long’s labyrinth. A trip farther out in the bay reveals aggressive waves that crash into the islands, spitting foam onto the white sands. Popular for its splendid views, the bay is never free of the tourist-packed brown boats that chug through. In the evening, these boats race in and out of the bay, some passing into the burning sun as it sets behind the cliffs, while others speed away from the growing silhouettes of the rocky horizon. Within the nearly 2000 stone giants jutting out from the sea, over 20 grottoes have been discovered. Some have been “improved” with multi-colored lights for the benefit of tourists, but these tend to make for an annoyingly artificial feel. Private boats are necessary to explore the obscure grottoes, because package boat tours only stop at a select neon-lit few.

Grottoes

There are over 20 caves in the bay, but only a few are easily accessible to visitors. The largest and most popular caves are illuminated with colorful lights and have restricted visitation hours and entrance fees. Others have been left in unadultered beauty and can be visited at leisure for free. The first three listed see hordes of tourists daily, while the others, though just as striking, are usually empty.

Thiˆn Cung (Celestial Palace).  Located 4km from the mainland and near the <u G! island and cave, this grotto, only 30 minutes from Hå Long City, is one of the most popular. The cave mouth, hovering 25m above sea level, is reachable by wooden stairs. Though the cave has been around for millions of years, its interior has been trod upon by eager tourists only for the past seven. Hidden behind overgrown plant life, the cave entrance remained secret until a local fisherman stumbled upon the majestic wonder in 1993. Tour guides proclaim that the lucky fisherman is now a very wealthy man and urge visitors to keep a keen eye out for other secret caves so that they, too, may strike it rich. Today, the cave is illuminated with red, blue, yellow, and green lights, which unfortunately detract from the cave’s natural beauty. Inside, the spacious chambers are filled with impressive stalactites and stalagmites. One of the more attention-grabbing sights is the large Buddha meditating in the middle of the grotto. Behind the Buddha there is a tiny enclosure with a miniature waterfall. On the left side of the cave wall, lights illuminate a shadow that looks like the face of a watchful man. The enclosure is named for heavenly women who are fabled to descend into the cave to shower in the gently sprinkling waters. Past the heavenly shower is a small gate. To its side is a large stone that resembles a cherry-topped scoop of ice cream to some, a woman’s breast to others. (Open daily summer 7:30am-5pm, winter 8am-4:30pm. 30,000.)

<u G! Grotto (Cave Of The Wooden Stakes).  Hidden next to the Celestial Palace, the <u G! Grotto covers an impressive 8000 square meters and is composed of three chambers. Locals believe that the cave’s name comes from its function during the 13th century, when Vietnamese fighters are said to have used it to store timber. The stakes created in the cave would then be hidden in nearby river beds at low tide. When they advanced at high tide, Mongolian invaders were left with ruined boats and captured soldiers. The cave was renamed “Grotto of Marvels” during French colonial rule. Open since 1999, the gigantic cave, with its moss-covered stones and large stalactites, is now known by both names. Yellow lights illuminate the natural grandeur of the cave’s interior. (Open daily summer 7:30am-5pm, winter 8am-4:30pm. Entrance included in the Celestial Palace ticket.)

S¸ng ST (Cave Of Surprises).  Another popular cave in the bay, S¸ng S#t was discovered in 1901 by the French and given its present name. Lying 25m above sea-level, the cave’s entrance is accessible only by a network of stairs. Inside, it is composed of three distinct chambers, all connected by narrow passages. Guides will point out a resemblance between every rock and some known object, including a turtle, lovers, and a brightly lit red canon, which others see as a phallus. Cave of surprises, indeed. (Open daily summer 8am-5pm, winter 8:30am-4:30pm. 30,000.)

Hang Trinh N (Virgin Cave).  Three kilometers southeast of S¸ng S#t, this popular cave is easily visited from Cát Bà. It is one of the most spectacular wonders of the bay, left almost unmarked by the visitors who venture into its empty belly. A smaller raft is necessary to approach the cave entrance. A short climb allows visitors to enter the protrusion, which is more like a tunnel than a cave. A second mouth flows into the opposite side of the small limestone mountain and provides a stalactite-decorated panorama of the limestone-topped waters. The cave gets its name from a rock shaped like a young woman stretching one arm into the sea, in the direction of the Tr#ng Cave, but its lack of artificial lights and painting help to keep the name a reality. (Free.)

Hang TrNg (Drum Cave).  Seven hundred meters from the Virgin Cave, this grotto is named for the drum-like sound that the wind makes when blowing into the cave. The Tr#ng grotto contains a stone column in the likeness of a young man. Paired with the Virgin Cave, regional interpretation holds that the two caves contain lovers reaching out to each other. The caves are not only united by the figures of the two lovers but also by the echo that travels from one to the other. Both caves remain free of artificial fixtures. (Free.)

Hang Tiˆn Ông (Male Fairy Cave).  Two kilometers southeast of the Virgin Cave, the Male Fairy Cave gets its name from a local legend that male fairies would frequent the cave, which served as a secret enclosure where they could play chess and sometimes try on women’s clothing without fear of reprisal from a repressive, heteronormative society. It is now the best-kept secret in the bay. To visit, you must bring own flashlight, and as there is no dock, a raft is also necessary. Inside are several chambers with a few stalactites. From the main cave, two smaller ones branch inward: the passage to the left leads to empty stone formations that, when hit, make drumming sounds; the passage to the right leads to a cave wall whose sparkling material is like a waterfall of a million diamond droplets frozen in time. With a size rivaling that of S¸ng S#t, this is a worthwhile cave to visit. (Free.)

Mê Cung. Just south of S¸ng S#t, this smaller cave is equally amazing. A walk through the dark, damp interior of the cave leads to a lush mountainside. Following the narrow path farther up presents yet another inspiring view of the bay—but then again, you can never have enough amazing views. (Free.)

Islets

Of the 1969 islets that span Hå Long Bay, 980 have been named. The islands with the most distinct shapes have elicited consistent images in the minds of local fishermen; those images are the source of their names today. Many of those shapes are tough to spot, but their amusing diversity—from cannon to cat to fisherman—is entertaining nonetheless. Feel free to make up your own images and names.

L™ H™£ng (Incense Burner).  One of the first distinct islets when traversing the bay from the north, this stone extends from the ocean and resembles a Vietnamese incense burner, used in worship and wish-making. Look for two rectangular isles that appear to be splitting, but remain connected by their sides. A small tunnel runs under the schism.

Chó Á (Stone Dog).  West of the Incense Burner and the <u G! Cave, the silhouette of a dog appears to be leaning against a rocky shore, trying to climb out of the water. His back paws climb the rock and his front ones are hidden among the brush; his head stares forward, and his posture also evokes images of a seal perched on a rock or a mermaid carefully emerging from the sea.

Gà Chßi (Fighting Cocks) . Three kilometers south of the Incense Burner, small twin peaks protrude from the water. Locally, they are known to resemble two roosters with touching beaks, fabled to be fighting. Other visitors have also seen the islet as two monkeys, one crouching and one hunched over, both leaning in to grace the other with a kiss. It’s weird, we know.

<u Ng™i (Human Head) . Near S¸ng S#t Cave, a side view of this islet resembles a man’s face, albeit with feline ears surrounded by a thin layer of green bushes; extending behind that face is an awkward lump. The back of the islet can elicit images of a ponytail, blown back by the wind, the hair spreading to the shore, or can alternatively look like a  huge mutant fish.

Cám +m (Teapot) . Though locals have christened it “teapot,” this islet, composed of two limestone rocks, has also struck viewers as a swan with an arched back or a peacock flashing its tail.

Rùa (Tortoise) . Even a completely unimaginative visitor would be hard-pressed not to notice the tortoise floating in the bay. A small round islet is attached to a larger and more oval rock and greets all visitors as they traverse Hå Long Bay on their way south toward Cát Bà town.

Yˆn Nga (Saddle) . One of the more aptly named islets, the limestone is composed of two humps, one slightly lower than the other, rolling over the water and clearly resembling a saddle. Literature connoisseurs might also be graced with a lighthearted image of a French classic—the famed hat of The Little Prince.

Mb·Ng Con (Child-Carrying Mother) . A large base supports two distinct stone towers, mimicking a cubist interpretation of a mother, perhaps reclined in a chair, holding her child in her lap. Each figure is made distinct by a triangular protrusion. You might need to use some imagination for this one.

Ba Trái Ào (Three Cursed Peaches) . These three small islets, located near the shores of Cát Bà town, resemble—what else?—small peaches. They’re home to one of Vietnam’s few remaining coral reefs, which makes for great snorkeling. Legend claims that a fairy who fell in love with a local fisherman stole three magical peaches that would render her lover immortal. When the Jade Emperor learned of the theft, he turned the peaches into three islands and condemned the lovers never to see each other again. Oh, that wrathful Jade Emperor.

Islands

While islets remain attractions to be admired from afar, group or private tours of the bay allow travelers to visit islands, often graced with small secluded beaches.

Titôp. Though smaller than the rest, a quick climb to Tit®p’s peak is well worth the stop, offering a spectacular panoramic view. Don’t bother with the beach.

Cát Da (Monkey Island) . A popular destination for tours from Cát Bà, this island is located east of the town and is only a 45min. boat ride away. A soft yellow beach greets tourists to the mountainous island, but the major attraction of the island lies at the top of one of its smaller peaks. To the right of the guardhouse, a 60m trail runs up the mountain. At the top, visitors can spot monkeys (brought to the island as a tourist attraction years ago) who come to greet their spectators. Though locals might urge tourists to bring some snacks for the friendly animals, feeding them is strictly prohibited. Viewers should keep their distance anyway; some monkeys have been known to bite, mistaking people for food or perhaps just angry about the illegal consumption of their brains (see “Iniquitous Delicacies,”). You can’t really blame them. (Open daily 7am-5pm. 7000.)

Cát Ông Island. Directly across from the harbor at Cát Bà town, this tiny island sports a small and deserted beach. Due to its recent popularity surge, a huge resort is under construction, and its waters are becoming increasingly polluted. You can rent a room in one of the guesthouses 3 at the Quang uc Family Hotel in Cát Bà. The rooms have twin beds, electricity, fans, and bathrooms with showers. However, there is no air-conditioning or hot water. The hotel also provides transportation to the island. (20min. boat ride; 165,000 one-way, 250,000 round-trip. Local boatmen can also be hired to make the journey; settle on a price before heading out. Either way, arrange pickup in advance. Rooms US$10. For meals, bring your own food or pick your meals at the Family Hotel in advance. Breakfast 10,000-15,000; lunch and dinner 30,000-50,000.)

<n Bˆ Island. The major attraction of this island is a pagoda perched on its golden beach. Most visitors marvel at the strange juxtaposition of man-made treasure and natural grandeur from a passing tour boat, but local fishermen continue to venture to the island to worship at the pagoda. There is also an annual boat race around the island on January 20th.

Floating Village. Close to the Hang Tiˆn Ông Cave floats a community of 400 people spread out among 150 houseboats. The village supports a floating school which allows visitors as show-and-tell guests during normal school hours. You will be amazed at the writing skills of these children on the rocking boats. Seafood is for sale, but try to get there just as the catch comes in or the majority will already be packaged for export to China. Before floating away, make a quick stop at the one-room museum, which provides photos and a history of the community.

Other Formations

Ba H<m Lake (Three Shelters Lake).  This is not a sight to be missed. Ba H<m is a large ocean lake surrounded by limestone mountains, and it’s accessible from the bay only via a boat ride through three caves. The limestone itself is populated by orchids and bamboo trees that provide food for local monkeys. Inside the magnificent formation, the waters are clear and allow visitors to peek at the sea urchins and mussels that hide in the innermost enclosure. A tour of the caves and enclosed lake takes about 45min. and requires the use of a smaller rowboat or kayak that can pass into the caves. (25km from the mainland, close to Cát Bà Town.)