The Northern Coast Trá C% Beach

Stretching for 17km along the Vietnamese coast, Trá C% is a tiny, laid-back fishing village that doubles as a hot spot for Chinese and Vietnamese vacationers. Sometimes called Northern Vietnam’s best sand, the beach itself doesn’t quite fit the bill—it’s really only worth a trip on the way to or from China. Its major selling points include millions of spiral, cone-shaped shells scattered along the shore and high swells perfect for bodysurfing. Close to the beach is a French gothic church and Kilometer Zero, marking the northernmost point of Vietnam.

Transportation. Trá C% lies about 10km from the Móng Cái bus station, from which it is easily reachable by motorbike. Drivers are willing to whisk you away for 15,000-20,000. To reach the beach on your own, follow Hùng V™£ng over the bridge and into town. Continue straight until the road flows out of town and heads straight for the beach. A taxi ride from Móng Cái costs around 50,000.

Orientation And Practical Information. The village that controls Trá C%’s shore is a rural version of a beach resort, with practically every sign along the town road advertising lodging or food. The main road that leads to the beach from Móng Cái traverses the town parallel to the shore. Smaller roads branch off into the sand and sea. The drive from Móng Cái is fairly straight, but curves right when the road reaches the town. About 700m from the curve, a right turn leads to the resort entrance. The Trá C% post office stands 5m from the main road. (☎780 008. Open daily 7am-9pm.) Also along the main road are a couple of Internet cafes, all charging 3000 per hour. (Most open daily 9am-10pm.) Farther down is the official resort, with a seaside cafe and a swimming pool (10,000 to take a dip). There are showers (“Nha Trang N™øc Ngot”) on the beach walkway, at the street entrance whose corner is marked by a sign reading “Nhà Nghœ Loan Ph™£ng.” (Open 7am-6pm. 3000.)

Accommodations And Food. There are a few hotels and many guesthouses along the main road that runs through the town. Most have high prices, but the quality varies, so shop around. A few beachside lodging options cut the 10m walk from your room to the beach in half. Hotel Toàn Truy]n 2, across from the resort entrance, is the best option in town, offering high quality rooms at fair prices. (☎780 187. Clean triples with TV, large private bath, and balconies in some rooms 140,000, with A/C 170,000.) To get to Hotel Trà Long 2, follow the sign about 550m from the turn in the road. Just a few steps from the boardwalk and beach, this old hotel is the closest to the action. The rooms are well-kept, though clearly aging. (☎780 131. Doubles 120,000; triples 140,000.) Thanh Thao 2, right next to Hotel Toàn Truy]n, offers some of the cheapest rooms in town, but the drop in price is accompanied by a drop in quality. The doubles (with fan) are small and the bathrooms are old. (☎780 393. Rooms 150,000.)

While ph and c£m shops populate the village road that runs parallel to the beach, the boardwalk is lined with seafood restaurants. The food itself is undoubtedly fresh, but the restaurant menus here are identical and uninspired. Sñm Li 2 is a fancy restaurant right on the beach in front of Hotel Trà Long. There are no menus, but the staff has a listing of prices by kilogram, and some of the younger workers speak some English. (☎883 081. Soup 10,000; steamed fish 20,000; rice 5000; beer 12,000. Open daily 7am-11pm.)

Sights. The main road away from Móng Cái passes by a French church built more than one hundred years ago. Jesus greets you with his arms spread wide, as do the youngsters climbing the rocks on which he is standing. Although the church is open infrequently for special services, you can catch a glimpse of the interior through the open windows. Continuing down the road brings you to a dead-end with a marker “Km 0.” This marks Vietnam’s northernmost point, from which you can see China across the water. Supposedly, due to lax border patrol, this is also a popular point for smuggling goods in from the north.