The Northwest Highlands Lào Cai

Lào Cai is one of two border crossings into Yunnan Province, China, and is the chief point of access to Sa Pa, the northernmost stop on most open-tour routes, and B c Hà, Sa Pa’s nearly untouched neighbor to the east. Despite the booming trade between China and Vietnam, there isn’t a great deal to do here; most travelers hardly pause before speeding across the border, south to Hà Nÿi, or directly into the mountains. While Lào Cai’s main attraction may be its location, the city is a fine place to spend the afternoon before saddling up for somewhere new.

Transportation. The train station lies 2km south of the Chinese border (open daily 7:30am-5pm), and travelers report that the crossing is quick and easy. There is a 3000 charge to cross the border on foot. Most travelers arrive in Lào Cai by train from Hà Nÿi or China. Ticket stubs are collected at the gate on arrival. Trains run to Hà Nÿi (10hr.; 10:30am, 7, 8:30, 9:15pm; hard seat 75,000, soft seat 126,000, soft sleeper 223,000). Plenty of transfer options to Sa Pa await at the Lào Cai train station. Some guesthouses have minibuses (35,000) that will take you from Lào Cai directly to their hotel in Sa Pa; you are not obliged to stay at the assigned address, only to look. If you purchase tickets directly from the drivers outside instead of at the counter, you’ll pay about 25,000. Tickets cheaper than 25,000 are likely to be fraudulent. Other modes of Sa Pa-bound transport include motorcycle taxis (1hr.; 50,000), taxis (150,000 or less), or minibuses from the station. The central bus station sits between the train station and customs, immediately over the C®c Lˆn Bridge on the opposite side of the river. Buses run to: B c Hà (2-3hr.; 5:30am; 35,000); Hà Nÿi (10-12hr.; 3:30am; 70,000); M™ng Lay (8hr.; 7am; 45,000); Sa Pa (2hr.; frequently 6am-4pm; 25,000).

There is another bus station located 150m down the street in front of the train station. Prices are usually fixed, and there are fewer hawkers than in town. Buses leave for: B c Hà (6:30am, 1pm; 28,000); Di_n Biˆn Ph© (9hr.; 7am; 95,000); Hà Nÿi (4:30, 5am; 85,000); M™ng Lay (6, 6:30, 8, 9am, 3:30pm; 38,000); Yˆn Bái (5 hr.; 4:30am, noon; 45,000). The train service into China has been temporarily discontinued, but there are buses available just over the border to Kunming (9-11hr.; 7, 9am, 12:30, 7pm). Keep in mind that China is an hour ahead of Vietnam.

Motorcycle taxis will go anywhere in town for 5000. Taxis are also available.

Orientation And Practical Information. Lào Cai straddles the Red River (S®ng H®ng). Most places of interest are along the eastern bank on Nguy[n Hu_, which runs parallel to the river. Both the train station and the bank on Nguy[n Hu_ offer currency exchange between dollars, Œ·ng, and yuan. (☎830 013. Open daily 7-11:30am and 1:30-5pm.) The hospital (☎842 396) is located on the other side of the river, 2km south of the bridge on Hoàng Liˆn. There is a post office stand on the street across from the border, and behind it there is an international calling center with Internet (3000 per hr.; open daily 7am-9:30pm).

Accommodations And Food. Most hotels are clustered around the customs building and across the C®c Lˆn Bridge; those by customs tend to be cheaper and more conveniently located. While bargaining, keep in mind that none of the prices in town are set, and hotels don’t fill up. Check the room beforehand, as most hotels rent some rooms without windows.

Just south of the border is Hoa Lan 2, 82 Nguy[n Hu_. Upstairs, past the large fish tank, are fresh rooms—everything in them is new. Ask for Room 203—it has an excellent view of the Red River. (☎830 126. Doubles 150,000.) Hoàng Hiˆp 2, 35 Nguy[n Hu_, offers spotless rooms with phone, air-conditioning, and flat-screen TV. (☎830 758. Doubles 100,000; triples 120,000.) Hoa H®ng Hotel 2, 40 Nguy[n Hu_, is just across the street from Bình Ming Restaurant. The rooms have similar amenities, but they’re also a bit dark, with windows looking out at a brick wall. (☎830 495. Doubles 120,000.) Nearby H®ng Ph™£ng Hotel 2, 17 Nguy[n Hu_, has cramped rooms with all the amenities, including a fridge. If you bargain hard, it can be a good deal. (☎830 419. Doubles 120,000.) The S®ng H®ng Guest House 2 is 10m down Phan Bÿi Chñu, which jogs east when Nguy[n Hu_ terminates by the Chinese border. It has big, bright rooms with everything included, but some amenities may not work. Of all the accommodations in Lào Cai, it has the most character, even if it’s the kind of character that only comes with age. Some have terraces on the Nam Thi River, overlooking China. (☎830 004. Rooms 120,000.) By the train station, Xuñn H·ng Hotel 2, 3 H· Tùng Mñu, offers quiet rooms off Nguy[n Hu_. Exiting the train station, walk to the right side of the square and continue straight down the street; it’s on your left. (☎832 670. Doubles 150,000, prices negotiable.)

For food, try Bình Ming Restaurant 2, directly off Nguy[n Hu_, around the corner from the tourist office. It has a large dining room and an extensive English menu with breakfast, lunch, and dinner options (banana pancake 10,000; fried eggs 10,000; lunch and dinner entrees 25,000-30,000). Try the sweet and sour fried pork (30,000). (☎835 577. Open daily 5:30am-9pm.) Two doors over is Chong Long 1, a simple eatery that lacks a menu, but it’s as good as Bình Ming, and cheaper, too. (☎830 769. Veggies 3000-5000; main courses 15,000. Open daily 6am-9pm.) There are several small food joints as well as Viˆt Hoa 2, located in the hotel across the square from the train station. This place is bit of a tourist trap—it has a long menu in English with listed but steep prices. (☎830 082. Soup 10,000; fried rice 20,000; fish and chicken 35,000. Open daily 6am-9pm.)

Sights. Lào Cai is starved for sights—three small temples are its main attractions. The first, ˆn M>u (Mother Temple), is next to the border on Nguy[n Hu_. The temple was originally built during the Lˆ Dynasty, but the Chinese have destroyed it twice since. Perhaps ˆn M>u’s most interesting characteristic is its proximity to China—the temple’s back gate is flush with the border. Continue down the street and bear right, passing the S®ng H®ng Guest House to Bao S¤n Pagoda. Through a gate and a garden, this humble temple hosts three small altars.

The best of the three, ˆn Th™£ng (2000) has been declared a Vietnamese historical heritage sight and overlooks pleasant surroundings from atop a hill. The walk from Bao S¤n Pagoda to ˆn Th™£ng is only 50m down a quiet street. To the left is the Nam Thi River, with China’s rolling hills on the opposite bank. The path passes a remarkable banyan tree whose shade engulfs the area. Just beyond the tree—perhaps the most impressive sight in town—is ˆn Th™£ng, and beyond it, a small memorial. The complex is quite peaceful, making for a relaxing siesta.

Daytrip From Lào Cai. To escape from the tourist photo-ops at Sa Pa and B c Hà, make a trip to M™ng Hum Sunday market. The market attracts Black H’m®ng, Giáy, Hà Nhì, Phù Lá, and Red Dao people. The journey alone, through Giáy villages and rugged mountains, is worth it. (From Lào Cai, take the northwest road 19km to Bát Xát/Nh+t Tri market, 6km past Bát Xát village. Take a left 25km later onto the road toward M™ng Vi and then to M™ng Hum. This road is in poor condition; drivers should use caution. A 2hr. xe ®m from Lào Cai costs 200,000 each way.)