The Northwest Highlands Hà Giang

The capital of one of Vietnam’s poorest provinces, Hà Giang bears witness to material poverty that lies in stark contrast with its wealth of natural beauty. Though situated on the banks of the L® River and framed by limestone peaks, Hà Giang’s scenery is not its only attraction: the town also serves as the gateway to the rugged ·ng Vn-Mèo Vac road, one of the country’s most breathtaking journeys. Transportation to and around this city is painfully inconsistent, but you’ll hardly notice the delays once you hit the stunning highway. In addition to those amazing mountain views, Hà Giang itself has begun working to become a major border crossing into southern China.

Transportation. The bus station (☎866 075) is located 2km south of town on Nguy[n Trãi. A new bus station is under construction 500m north of this one on the same road. Buses run to: Hà Giang (6-8hr.; 4, 4:15, 4:30, 5am; 55,000) via Tuyˆn Quang (2-3hr.; frequently 4am-3:30pm; 25,000); Mèo Vac (6hr.; 5 am, noon, 12:30pm; 38,000) via ·ng Vn (5hr.; 37,000); and Thái Nguyˆn (6hr.; 5, 7, 9am; 40,000). Those heading to the northwest and Lào Cai must backtrack to Doan Hung, located at the junction of Hwy. 2 and Hwy. 70, 28km south of Tuyˆn Quang. Buses to Lào Cai run through this junction until early afternoon. Otherwise, catch a minibus from Tuyˆn Quang to Yˆn Bái, which is on the Hà Nÿi-Lào Cai rail line. Taxis are available for hire in Hà Giang (☎860 860).

Orientation And Practical Information. The L® River splits Hà Giang in two. Parallel to the river on the western half of town is Nguy[n Trãi (Highway 2). On the other side is Nguy[n Thái Hßc, east of which is Tr<n Phú, which becomes Anh Phú after crossing Minh Khan to the south. Two bridges connect the two sides of town: Yˆn Biˆn I (D™£ng Tr<n H™ng åo) to the north and Yˆn Biˆn II (D™£ng Minh Khan) 1km to the south. The eastern half of town is home to the market on Nguy[n Thái Hßc, north of Tr<n Húng åo, the police station (☎869 163) at 28 Anh Phú, and the hospital (☎866 411) at 11 Minh Khan. The western half of town is where most of the provincial government buildings are located. There are two post office branches in town. The southern branch is 500m south of the Yˆn Biˆn II bridge at 13 Nguy[n Trãi, where international phone calls, Internet (3000 per hr.), and Hà Giang’s best air-conditioning are available. (☎863 915. Open daily 7am-8:30pm.) Two banks are on Nguy[n Trãi; both exchange currency. Pharmacies are found throughout town; one is at 344 Nguy[n Trãi (open daily 7-11am and 1-5pm).

Accommodations. Despite Hà Giang’s small size and seclusion, the town offers a generous selection of hotels. Most cater to Chinese entrepreneurs and offer business-class amenities like elevators, air-conditioning, fans, TV, and hot water. The Th©y Tiˆn Hotel 2, 19 Nguy[n Thái Hßc, just north of the Yˆn Biˆn II bridge, has clean rooms with large bathrooms. The back rooms have views of the river. (☎875 156. Singles 120,000; doubles 130,000.) The Khách Sån Duc Giang 2, 14 Nguy[n Trãi, north of the bus station, has some of the best-kept rooms in town. (☎875 648. Singles 110,000; doubles 130,000.) Closer to the bus station is the slightly older Sao Mai Hotel 2, 9 Nguy[n Trãi, where each room comes with an office desk. (☎863 019. Singles and doubles with bath 150,000.) The Hà D™£ng Hotel 2, 300m north of the bus station, is a good value; the large rooms in front have bay windows and balconies. (☎862 555. Singles 100,000; doubles 120,000.)

Food. While Hà Giang is famous for its goat salad (shredded goat wrapped in a dry pancake with citronella, peppers, green banana, starfruit, and herbs), there are only a limited number of eating establishments where it can be found. Quán Hái Y\n 1, just north of the Th©y Tiˆn Hotel at 51 Nguy[n Thái Hßc, serves local dishes with local prices. The cha cha lot (minced pork wrapped in leaves; 6000) and pork cooked with coconut (8000) are recommended. There’s no menu; simply select your own dishes behind the glass case. The largest restaurant in town is Hoàng åi Gia 2, 6 Nguy[n Trãi (☎875 658), located just south of the Yˆn Biˆn II bridge in the western half of town. Beef dishes (35,000-45,000) and vegetarian dishes (30,000-45,000) both come with sticky rice. Tu L<u Trung Qu#c 3, 19 Tr<n H™ng åo, just west of the Yˆn Biˆn I bridge, has a small English menu, but the portions are equally as small. The Vietnamese menu, which includes dog, is much more extensive. Try the beef in wine sauce for 60,000. (☎860 316. Open daily 7am-10pm.) Beer gardens line the promenade on the western bank of the L® River.

Sights. Besides its scenic location, the only attraction in town is the Hà Giang Provincial Museum, located at the corner of Tr<n Húng åo and Nguy[n Trãi. While it takes a creative eye to discern the building’s metaphorical form—a “big lotus opening up its petals”—this red-and-white citadel houses the obligatory shrine and photos of H· Chí Minh on the ground floor. One floor up, you’ll find mannequins dressed in minority costumes and local archaeological finds. Highlights of the small exhibit include the bronze drum collection and a topographical diorama of the province—which may whet your appetite for the ·ng Vn-Mèo Vac road. While nothing remarkable, the museum does kill at least half an hour. (Open daily 8-11am and 2-4pm; M, W, F-Su, 7:30-9:30pm as well. Free.)

Daytrip From Hà Giang: D·Ng Vn And Mèo Vac. Though it takes several days to complete, the  ·ng Vn-Mèo Vac driving loop is best accessed from the town of Hà Giang; in fact, it’s the main reason even to go there, as it boasts some of Vietnam’s most spectacular mountain scenery. Bordering China, the region is home to many ethnic minorities and is a politically sensitive area. Beyond Hà Giang, all foreigners must bear a special permit and travel with a guide.

When the road going northeast out of town forks, take a right to head northeast. At a second fork about 40km away, turn left toward ·ng Vn. The first major site on the loop is Quan Ba (Heaven’s Gate) Pass (elevation 1000m), 45km northeast of Hà Giang. The pass offers tantalizing views of the voluptuously named Thåch Nh´ ®i (literally “Double Stalagmites,” but known also as “Two Stone Breasts”) in the valley below. Another 70km from Hà Giang, the minority village near Lang Si Pass is home to White H’m®ng who hold a market every six days.

Just 12km before ·ng Vn in the White H’m®ng village of Sa Phin is the V™£ng mansion. Designed according to Chinese geomantic principles and built by the French in 1903, the building signified the colonial government’s recognition of V™£ng Chi uc as king of the H’m®ng. Sanctioned by Nguy[n kings and the French to suppress rebellions by the ethnic minorities, the V™£ng dynasty remained loyal to the French until 1945, when Chi uc’s son pledged his loyalty to H· Chí Minh.

After another 16km you’ll arrive at ·ng Vn, a market town of little interest besides a government guesthouse (☎856 265) where you can spend the night. Alternatively, you can push on to nearby Mèo Vac and stay at the guesthouse there (☎871 176). While both villages are situated amidst limestone backdrops, the road connecting the two takes center stage. The height of the trip is at the Ma Phi Leng Pass, which overlooks the Nh® Qu] River nearly 1500m below.

Tours organized from Hà Giang to ·ng Vn and Mèo Vac are expensive. As this region is still a politically sensitive area, travelers are required to purchase a permit (technically 150,000 per 1- to 5-person group, though it can only be obtained through the travel company, which charges much more) and travel with an even more expensive guide. Foreigners are not allowed to wander on their own in the hills or villages outside of Mèo Vac and ·ng Vn.

The sole tour operator in town charges astronomical prices for the necessities: 800,000 for the permit, 200,000 per day for the guide, and 600,000 per day for private transport. You must also pay for food and accommodations for the guide and driver. A five-day tour of Mèo Vac, ·ng Vn, and B c Hà with a hired jeep and guide runs US$230-350 at more established travel companies in Sa Pa.