The landscape between Sa Pa and i_n Biˆn Ph©—a succession of majestic mountains, ethnic villages, and gorgeous rice fields—is simply superb, bordering on surreal. Small detours and brief treks allow for an authentic look at life in the region. Even if you don’t plan on stopping anywhere along the 300km stretch, be sure to grab a window seat. Along the road you will see a wonderful array of headwear—hats of horse hair and straw, aluminum headdresses, conical hats, and thick turbans. Travelers generally stop in one of two towns for the night: Lai Chñu (old Tam ™ng) or M™ng Lay (old Lai Chñu). The mountains and villages surrounding both of them are their biggest draw. The relatively unscathed Rte. 6 that bypasses i_n Biˆn Ph©—instead connecting M™ng Lay directly to Tu<n Giáo—is by far the most unbelievable stretch of road in the country, passing through some of the most untouched villages in all of Vietnam. Connecting Sa Pa and i_n Biˆn Ph©, Highways 4 and 12 manage to communicate the diversity and splendor of Vietnam’s various ethnic groups in a way that H’m®ng-heavy Sa Pa can not.
In the past decade, Lai Châu has suffered from some serious identity crises. Just two years ago, this concrete strip was known as Tam ™ng, and before that, Phong Th%. Today, signs and maps with all ...more
A 103km stretch of road connects the stopover points of Lai Chñu and M™ng Lay for travelers en route to Sa Pa or i_n Biˆn Ph©. Weaving across peaks and along the Na river valley by any mode of transportation ...more
The road to Sìn H· (elevation 1700m) from Hwy. 12 begins at Nam May, 4km south of Pá So, and three-quarters of the way from Lai Chñu to M™ng Lay, a distance of 100km. This 38km detour takes almost ...more
Nestled in a pastoral river valley, M™ng Lay (elevation 600m) sits in a subdued state, awaiting its watery doom. By 2012, a reservoir formed by a colossal hydroelectric dam will flood low lying parts ...more
Directly across the street from the M™ng Lay post office, a Montagnard path pretending to be a road called Route 6 eases up into the mountains. This road is an empty, scenic alternative to the ...more
i_n Biˆn Ph© (BP) is a destination for history buffs and a stopover for everyone else. Though set in a beautiful valley, this unattractive but historically significant town is easy for foreign tourists ...more
Eighty kilometers from i_n Biˆn Ph©, 75km from S£n La, and 98km from M™ng Lay, the small town of Tu<n Giáo is a centrally located and necessary stop on any tour of the Northwest Highlands. Residents ...more
Nestled among limestone karsts and rice paddies, S£n La (elevation 676m) is an attractive town used as an intermediate point between Hà Nÿi and i_n Biˆn Ph©. Political prisoners were held there ...more
Mÿc Chñu boasts some of Vietnam’s best dairy and tea products, but little else. On Rte. 6 between S£n La and Mai Chñu, its location and elevation (1500m) makes for cool temperatures around 20˚C ...more
Surrounded by steep mountains and stunning rice paddies, tiny Mai Chñu is a refreshing change of pace in a region packed with challenging travel opportunities. Just outside of town, the White Thài ...more
For many travelers, Hòa Bình functions as the gateway either to or from the Northwest Highlands. Having absorbed more of the raucous charm of Hà Nÿi than the silent beauty of the northwest, the streets ...more
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