Overview
One day, travelers will wise up and notice that Ninh Bình is more than just a reststop on the way to Hà Nÿi or Hu\. Until then, one of the most beautiful parts of Vietnam is yours for the taking. Dramatic scenery, historical intrigues, religious pilgrimage sites, and an endangered animal sanctuary are all within 50km of town. A slowly blossoming city, Ninh Bình itself is not overflowing with alluring sights, but instead serves as an ideal base from which to explore the region’s attractions. Accommodations here are among the best in Vietnam; an intense (and hilarious) rivalry among lodging choices keeps prices reasonable and quality high.
The bus station is on Lˆ åi Hành opposite the bridge that connects to Tr<n Hùng åo. Buses leave for: H=i Phòng (6hr.; 5:45, 6:30, 7:15am, noon, 1, 2pm; 20,000); Hà Nÿi (1‡-2hr.; every 15min. 5am-5pm; 25,000); HCMC (42hr.; 6am, 3-5 times per week; 211,000); and Phát Di_m/Kim S£n (50min.; every hr. 7am-5:30pm; 7000). Additional buses to Hà Nÿi can be flagged down anywhere along Tr<n Hùng åo. Another option is to catch one of the many tourist buses that run daily to Hà Nÿi (1‡-2hr.; 5:30, 7:30am; US$3-4) and Hu\ (11hr.; 9pm; US$8-9). Seats can be booked at any hotel, but the best seats are usually taken as part of open-tour tickets. The train station lies at the end of Hoàng Hoa Thám. From the bus station, walk north two blocks on Lˆ åi Hành and turn right; the road ends at the base of the station. Trains go to: Hà Nÿi (2-3‡hr.; 5 per day; 26,000-60,000); HCMC (40hr.; 404,000-920,000); Hu\ (12‡-15hr.; 134,000-282,000); Vinh (3-5hr.; 30,000-130,000). If traveling to Hu\ or HCMC, buy your ticket at least a day in advance. To get to Vinh, arrive no later than 15min. before the train’s scheduled departure. Train times and prices are posted on a bulletin outside the main entrance. There is also a local taxi service. (☎876 876; www.universe.fpt.vn. 14,000 per km for first 2km, 7000 per km next 3-20km, 5000 per km for the following 21-50km, and 2000 per km or negotiable for longer journeys.)
Ninh Bình lies 96km south of Hà Nÿi on Hwy. 1A. Running north to south, the narrow Van River bisects the town center. On its western bank, Tr<n H™ng åo (Highway 1A) runs parallel to the river before crossing it 2km south of town. Lˆ åi Hành runs parallel to the river’s eastern bank. Heading south on Tr<n H™ng åo, the first major intersection in town is with Lˆ H·ng Phong heading east and L™£ng Vn Tu• heading west. The next major intersection is with Vñn Giang, which goes east toward the market, and Tr™£ng Hang Sieu, heading west. Farther south, beyond the radio tower, Tr<n H™ng åo goes over a bridge and curves to run nearly parallel to Lˆ åi Hành. The bus station is across this bridge on Lˆ åi Hành. The two roads eventually merge 3km south of town. Just south of the radio tower, L• T Trßng heads west from Tr<n H™ng åo and ends in front of the hospital (☎871 030).
Hotels will exchange Œ·ng for dollars, but to exchange traveler’s checks or obtain a cash advance, head up Tr<n H™ng åo, past the Star Hotel. On the right is the brand new Industrial and Commercial Bank of Vietnam, 1 L™£ng Vn Tu•, which is housed in a large yellow building and has an ATM. (☎872 675. Open M-Sa 7-11am and 1-4:30pm.) The pharmacy is on Tr<n H™ng åo. Many hotels provide easy Internet access, though it’s slow and expensive compared with the cybercafes in town. Access is available at 58 Tr<n H™ng åo for 5000 per hr. The GPO has post, telephone, and fax services; look for the red “B™u i_n” sign two buildings to the right of the radio tower on Tr<n H™ng åo. (☎871 104. Open summer M-F 6am-10pm, Sa-Su 7am-9pm; winter daily 6:30am-9:30pm.)
In anticipation of the town’s increasing popularity, new hotels pop up almost daily. All accommodations offer restaurants, bike rentals for US$1 per day, motorbike rentals for US$4-5 per day, tourist information, and tours of the surroundings. Guests are not obliged to rent only the services of their hotel, as those right next store may be much cheaper. Queen Mini Hotel 1, 21 Hoàng Hoa Thám, 150m from the train station, has some of the best deals in town and a helpful and smiling staff. It’s home to the excellent English-speaking guide, Luong, who organizes tours throughout Vietnam. (☎871 874; luongvn2001@yahoo.com. Tiny single with fan and no bath US$4; comfortable rooms with bath and A/C US$5-15.) The English- and German-speaking owners of Thanh Thuy’s Guest House 1, 128 Lˆ H·ng Phong, just off of Tr<n H™ng åo, have added a new wing with sparkling bathrooms and powder-white walls to join their older (but still clean) rooms. (☎871 811; fax 880 441. Sturdy Japanese mountain bikes 15,000 per day, Chinese models 8000. Internet 3000 per hr. Private massage 50,000 per hr. Laundry 10,000-15,000 per kg. Tiny attic single with fan US$2; old doubles with fan and bathtub US$5-6; new, spacious doubles with private bath and fan US$8, with A/C US$10-20.) New Guest House 1, right next door to the train station, is a family operation offering small but clean rooms. (☎872 137; fax 874 252. Doubles with bath, TV, and fan 70,000-80,000, with A/C 100,000.) Kinh ® 2, 99 Phan inh Phung, located one block north of Vñn Giang off of Tr<n H™ng åo, has some older rooms as well as newer luxurious ones, the latter of which bask in a twist of imperial culture with carved wooden furniture. (☎871 352; kinhdohotel-nb@hn.vnn.vn. Older rooms with fan 120,000; newer rooms with A/C 150,000). One of the quietest options in town is the Nhà Nghœ Qu#c Bình 2, located in a residential district away from the train station and noisy streets. From Tr<n H™ng åo, turn west onto Tr™£ng Hang Sieu and walk for 150m. Turn right onto An Thành; watch for the “Nhà Nghœ” sign. (☎881 605. Doubles with fan 120,000, with A/C 150,0000; triples with A/C 180,000.) Thuy Anh Hotel 2, 55 Tr™£ng Han Sieu, in the center of town, has luxurious rooms at hefty prices. The English-speaking staff can arrange full-day tours (US$18-22) and motorbike rentals (US$6 per day). Internet is available for 500 per min. (☎871 602; fax 876 934. Free transport to and from train and bus stations. Overpriced, tiny rooms with fan and shared bathroom US$7, with A/C US $10. Doubles with A/C and bath US$15-35. MC/V.)
For the local breakfast specialty mi_n l™£n (eel in vermicelli noodle soup; 10,000), or Vietnamese standards like canh cua (crab soup; 10,000) with cà ghém mu# (a local pickled vegetable delight), stop by C£m Bính Dñn 1, at the intersection of Tr<n H™ng åo and Vñn Giang, diagonally across from the Thuy Anh. Grab the purple paper on the table to wipe off your chopsticks and bowl like the local guests do. The most famous restaurant in town is H™£ng Mai 2, 12 Tr<n H™ng åo, just north of the intersection with L™£ng Vn Tu•. Patrons can sample a Ninh Bình delicacy: c£m cháy (deep-fried rice cakes doused in a hot soup of pork or cow kidneys and hearts; 35,000). They’re also famous for their free-range dˆ tái (30,000), boiled goat served with citronella, lemon leaf, ginger, and wrapped with rice paper. (☎871 351 Open daily 8am-9pm.) Across the street is its rival Tr™o Giang 2, offering the same fare for the same price. The tree-shaded street in front of Queen Hotel to the train station has numerous local ph and c£m shops. The one at 22 ™ng 7 Tr<n Phú, with its kitchen-turned-cafeteria look, caters to friendly young twentysomethings. (Open daily 11am-8pm. Plates of tofu, veggies, or various meats 1000-4000.) Numerous cafes line the streets off of Tr<n H™ng åo. For a cool mid-afternoon or late-evening snack, the clean and friendly Sinh T% 1, 49 Phúc L®c Phúe Thánh, scoops out sinh t% bo (guava ice cream; 7000) and blends mango or orange juice (3000). You might be served a slew of friendly questions along with your drink. (☎880 709. Open daily 7am-11pm.)
Like many Vietnamese businesses, Ninh Bình’s nightlife operates for the most part out of private homes, with lawn furniture arranged inside open homes and spilling onto the sidewalks. The stretch of garage pubs and lawn furniture arranged along V® Th¢ Sán, on the May Xay Lake, is especially popular. Locals enjoy cheap beer and pleasant company in the twilight. It is easiest to reach V® Th¢ Sán by motorbike; women traveling alone might feel more comfortable bringing along a companion to prevent inquisitive stares from a largely male following. To get there, turn right out of the bus station onto Lˆ åi Hành and continue until the intersection and small roundabout of Lˆ H·ng Phong. Hook the next right to reach the local pub scene. (Most open 11am-11pm, later on weekends. Beer 5000 per liter; soda 2500.) Though more expensive, Bia H£i Hà Nÿi, 31 ™ng Tr<n, bops with hungry locals late into the night. A young and friendly staff (some English-speaking and eager to practice) is ready to serve xúp gà (chicken soup; 5000), xúp luon (pea soup; 5000) for vegetarians, and tran (buffalo; 20,000-25,000) for those daring enough to try. (☎884 598. Open daily 11am-midnight.)
The best way to reach any of the local sights is to hop on a xe ®m. If you book a guide, ask to take the longer route that passes villages and majestic limestone mountains. The government is building a scenic road (to be completed in 2008) that will bring busloads of tourists to the Trang An grottoes, located in the cliff-covered landscape between Hoa L™ and Tam C#c. Until they finish, exploring the relatively quiet backroads on your own is highly recommended for those who don’t mind getting a little lost. Be extremely careful traveling alone on Hwy. 1A, as the condition of the road makes it quite dangerous.
From Ninh Bình, head south on Highway 1A for 3km. Take a right at the huge Tam C#c billboard. The boat basin is 3km farther down this road. To take a boat trip through the three caves, buy a ticket at the booth 300m before the boat basin. The 2hr. ride costs 50,000 and includes admission to the nearby temple and pagoda (open daily 7am-5pm). Arrive early to beat the crowds, sun, and boat vendors. Local merchants have umbrellas ready for rent (5000), while camera-toting locals paddle boats alongside tourists (2000).
Ninh Bình’s premier tourist attraction is an otherworldy landscape, appropriately nicknamed “Hå Long Bay without the sea.” Bamboo skiffs float to and through the caves, past towering limestone cliffs, working fishermen, and occasionally hordes of tourists. Midway through the trip, the boat stops at a small shrine. The break is often used for the female rowers to present their embroidery for purchase. Floating alongside tourists, boat vendors approach these tours and try to cajole visitors into buying drinks or food for themselves or their rower; but many times the rowers simply sell the drinks back to vendors at a lower price. Tipping the guide might be a more direct option for those wanting to thank him or her—they’ll probably ask for one anyway.
Before the first bridge, visitors can either return back to the boat basin or be let off at a landing to the right. From the landing, they can walk 500m to the Thaí Vi temple. Erected in 1273, the temple was dedicated to Emperor Tr<n Thaí T®ng and his three royal descendants. Inside, locals come to pray and leave gifts at the altar. The temple can also be explored after being dropped off at the boat basin. With your back toward the basin, take the first dirt road on the left. Continue past the hotel, crossing the small bridge as boats pass under you. The road terminates at the temple. Temple admission is included in the Tam C#c Tour.
The tour also includes admission to the Bìch ng (Blue Grotto) Pagodas. These pagodas date back to 1428, when two Buddhists, Chí Klˆn and Chí H], joined forces to search for a place where they could continue their religious studies. When they found the breathtaking sights of Ng´ Nhåc S£n, or “fire mountain,” they built the first and highest of the three Bìch ng Pagodas, which perch at varying heights on the mountainside. A stairway leads past these beautiful temples and through a grotto, yielding fantastic views of the cliffs and surrounding farmlands. They are especially beautiful during the harvest season in June, when the fields resemble a yellow sea. It’s possible to enter the pagodas from the rear, via a torchlight boat trip through the low-hanging cave, followed by a short climb over the front side of the mountain. To reach the pagodas, take the road on your left when facing the boat basin. This road curves around town, passing a memorial to veterans of the French and American Wars. Continue past Tam C#c until the road ends in a small square in front of the pagodas (about 3km from the boat basin). For the back entrance, backtrack 50m and take a right on the narrow path. Follow this for another 100m around the mountain, until you see the boats and cave entrance.
To reach the cave, follow the path leading to the back door entrance to the Bìch ng Pagodas. Take the first left on a very narrow path. This path will circle around a limestone outcrop before ending at a temple. A set of stairs to the right of the temple leads to the cave entrance. Suggested group donation 10,000.
Largely undiscovered by foreign tourists, this stalagmite-filled cavern pierces through a limestone outcropping. Locals come to the cave to pray for a good harvest and for luck in front of formations called the “money plant” and “rice plant.” While it may be hard to see the likenesses, the incense that locals burn inside adds to the mystical atmosphere. The journey through the cave is fully lit, but visitors will have to practice their Vietnamese or think of creative hand gestures to get the temple attendant to unlock the gate and turn on the lights.
From the Ninh Bình post office, head north up Tr<n H™ng åo (Hwy. 1A) 11km out of town. Turn left 400m after passing a bridge, following the sign to Cúc Ph™£ng National Park. Continue straight for another 10km. In the center of Me town look for the telecommunications tower and main post office. Turn left onto the road at the corner with the post office. After 2km, you’ll come to a cafe with a thatched roof. The ticket office is in the cafe parking lot. ☎868 560. 2-3hr. trips available daily 6am-6pm. Sightseeing ticket 15,000. Boat ride 30,000 per person (min. 2 people); 75,000 for singles.
The best time to catch Kˆnh Gà’s natural beauty is in July, the first of three months when the river floods, swallowing many village homes and leaving locals to roam the river on houseboats until the water level recedes. Still largely undiscovered, though gaining popularity with adventurous backpackers, Kˆnh Gà remains mostly tourist-free. Though its name means “chicken canal,” chickens are nowhere to be seen. Rather, the inhabitants of this small village subsist off surrounding rice fields as well as the snails, crabs, and fish that get tangled in their nets. Though the boat tour is named after the floating village, the excursion follows the Hoàng Long (DKing Dragon) River, surrounded by limestone mountains that jut out from the rice fields. Passing through the village, visitors are charmed by smiling children and the occasional mother holding a baby while paddling along with her feet, all against a breathtaking mountainous backdrop. After passing the village, boats dock to allow visitors to embark on a 2km walk to the Vñn Trình Cave entrance. The cave can be explored at leisure, without crowds or guards. As in all caves, visitors should refrain from touching the precious stalactites; human contact can do a great deal of harm by rubbing away thousands of years of mineral and rock formations. If you’re taking the route without a guide, just follow the bamboo poles that run along the embankment from the boat landing. At the entrance to the cave, a person at the small refreshment stand on the left will ask for your sightseeing ticket. A light switch rests to the right of the entrance, though visitors are best advised to bring their own flashlight; the lighting is poor and the stairs can sometimes be wet and slippery. Bring your own lunch or wait to return to the mainland, where you can snack at slightly inflated prices or try your bargaining skills at the local food stands sprinkled throughout the town.
From Ninh Bình, head north on Hwy. 1A for 6km to Thiˆn T®n, then take a left toward Truong Yen. After another 5km, take a left at the “Welcome to Hoa L™ ancient capital” sign and continue to the ticket booth and parking lot. From there, continue straight and hook a right over the bridge. The entrance to the first temple is about 30m farther. The second temple is 300m to the right. Hoa L™ can also be accessed through the beautiful backroads from Tam C#c or Kˆnh Gà; ask your hotel owner to draw a detailed map. Open daily 7am-6pm. Access to both temples and the mountain stairway 10,000, children 12 and under 3000. To catch a ferry, wave to the villagers on the opposite side of the bridge and ask for a ride. 30,000 per person.
Hoa L™, the capital of åi C· Vi_t, the first independent Vietnamese state following a millennium of Chinese rule, lies 12km north of Ninh Bình in a valley ringed by limestone peaks. It was chosen for its location, which made it virtually impregnable to the invading Chinese, and served as the capital from AD 968 until L• C®ng U>n of the L• Dynasty, moved it to Thng Long (modern-day Hà Nÿi) in AD 1011.
While little survives of the original city, two 17th-century replicas of 11th-century temples remain. The first, on the way from the ticket booth, commemorates inh Bÿ Lænh (inh Tiˆn Hoàng), the first Vietnamese king to declare himself emperor. It is said that he had a tiger and an urn placed in the palace courtyard and declared that anyone who violated the law would be boiled and eaten. Gilt statues of inh Tiˆn Hoàng and his sons are housed in the second inner sanctuary. On each side of the temple stand two smaller structures. The one on the right is an imperial exhibit (in Vietnamese) with great views of the surrounding countryside; the other is a simple display of nearby fauna that includes 577 various species of plants. While modest on the outside, the interior of the temple is carved from dark wood and decorated with golden signs and numerous dragons. The second temple, \n Lˆ åi Hành, is dedicated to inh Tiˆn Hoàng’s successor. After inh Tiˆn Hoàng was assassinated, Lˆ Hoàn, the commander of inh Tiˆn Hoàng’s army, seized power and declared himself king. He took control not only of the deceased king’s throne, but of his wife as well, who was purportedly his lover well before the king’s death. Her statue is housed in the rear of the temple.
To visit inh Tiˆn Hoàng’s tomb, take the road to the left of the entrance to the temple gardens and quickly veer left to find over 300 steps that lead to the top of Saddle Mountain (Núi Man Yˆn). Though the tomb itself is simple, the climb reveals a panorama of the countryside. Continue past the tomb and up 2m of jagged stairs to see the view of the other side. Remember which way you climbed up—this path is unmarked. Three hundred meters past the gate of the first temple lies the garden and place of worship of Lˆ Hoàn. The site is still used for occasional village and religious festivities.
Though Tam C#c is the more picturesque and popular spot for a ride on the river and through nearby caves, Hoa L™ offers its own aquatic excursion. Before crossing the small bridge, a blue sign tells visitors of the chance to take a 2hr. ferry ride around the mountain and through its nearby caves, where national treasures were kept and prisoners punished.
On the way to Hoa L™ from Ninh Bình, 700m after turning off Hwy. 1A, is the Vestige Pagoda and Cave of Thiˆn Ton (Heaven King), just before the road makes a sharp turn to the left. Behind the main structure is the outer cave, dedicated to Buddha. An 18th-century Nguy[n Dynasty stone altar, carved with supernatural creatures, lies next to a bronze bell dating back to Lˆ Hi\n T®ng’s reign (1497-1504). In the inner cave, the altar holds a bronze statue of the king standing on the back of a tortoise. The entrance to the cave is usually locked. Ask the temple attendant to let you in; a 10,000 donation is suggested.
From Tam C#c, head back toward Hwy. 1. After 1.5km, pass a 2-story yellow building, and turn left before the small lake. Then take your first right and the first left onto a poorly paved road leading through a village. Continue straight down the road for 1.5km, and after you cross a small footbridge, you should see a big sign pointing you to the left. 20,000.
Hang Múa, the area’s newest attraction, lies on the way to Hoa L™ from Tam C#c. Five hundred steps ascend past billowing red, yellow, and blue flags and painted concrete animals to a breathtaking vista 200m above the rice paddies at the mountain’s summit. At the base is a peaceful garden with big concrete sculptures and a small man-made island; there is also is a cave at the base of the stairs, which requires a flashlight. The poor condition of the access road prohibits tour buses from getting there, for now. While the view at the top is fantastic and the gardens are quite tranquil, this mountain’s well-kept landscape feels a little out of place in its surroundings, lacking the beaten-down charm of the region. Don’t forget your camera, water, and sunblock. Shoes, rather than sandals, are a good idea.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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