Northern Central Vietnam Phát Di_m

The streets of Phát Di_m (Kim S£n) are worth exploring for their numerous sewing shops (c t may), a plentiful but untouristed market, and the majestic Catholic Cathedral, which illuminates the surrounding streets and canals. The center of Vietnamese Catholicism is the Phát Di_m Cathedral, one of the 30 or so churches in this area built by French Jesuits. Built between 1875 and 1899 by Vietnamese Father Sáu, it was nearly destroyed in 1972 by American bombs, but was quickly repaired afterward. The stone-and-wood edifice is an amalgamation of pagoda towers, Buddhist lotuses, and crosses laid out in a cathedral plan. Wander into the monastery grounds and ask for an English- or French-speaking guide to give you a tour of the small museum of Vietnamese Catholicism behind the cathedral, as well as a glimpse of the cathedral’s interior, where you’ll find a two-ton bell that resounds across a 10km radius. Even if you forgo the detailed tour of the one-room museum (housing clothes, pictures, and maps of the region), you can still sneak a peek at the wooden interior and the ornate golden altar through the windows next to the main entrance. A map located near the entrances at either side of the cathedral orients English- and French-speaking visitors, while plaques nearby relate the history of Phát Di_m. (From the bus station, head right over a bridge, and pass two more bridges. About 1km later, look for a sign reading “Nhà Th Phát Di_m” on the left. The cathedral is 300m down the road to your right. Mass is held daily at 5am and 5:30pm, though curious onlookers are requested to come during visiting hours only. ☎862 058. Open daily 7:30-11:30am and 2:30-5pm. Free tour, although it’s customary to give a 10,000 donation.)

The selection of accommodations in Phát Di_m is meager. However, those wanting to stop here on their way south can spend the night at Thu H™£ng Hotel 1, 53 Phát Di_m Tñy, on the main street to the cathedral. Eager to help, the Vietnamese-speaking staff offers clean doubles with air-conditioning, dark wood furniture, and clean sheets. Some rooms have private baths. (☎862 336. Singles 80,000-100,000; doubles 150,000.) While ph and c£m shops proclaim their presence with brand-new red-and-blue signs, little else is available in the way of food save home groceries and food stands. You can pick something up at the town market on your way from the bus stop, or walk up the main road past the turn to Phát Di_m until you reach the corner of L™u Ph™£ng and the small fruit and veggie stands.

You can reach the town and the Catholic Cathedral with an organized tour from any hotel in Ninh Bình, or simply by renting a motorbike and a guide for the day (US$4-5, with guide US$6-9). The town is 28km southeast of Ninh Bình. From Tr<n H™ng åo (Hwy. 1A), head east over the river, pass the bus station, and cross over the railroad tracks. Head straight into Phát Di_m (Kim S£n), then continue 1km and veer right at a blue sign with an arrow to the Phát Di_m Cathedral. Public buses to Kim S£n run frequently, though the trip will take longer, and the “hourly” buses leave only when full. Those wishing to daytrip from Hà Nÿi or simply to bypass Ninh Bình on their way south can do so. The bus station is on the north end of town on the main road, ™ng Pho. Buses run to Ninh Bình (45-90min.; about every hr. 6am-3pm; 7000) and Hà Nÿi (3-4 hr.; 20,000). To reach the Ngñn Hãng N®ng Nghiep Va Bank (Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development), head south from the bus station, pass the bridge, and veer left to pass over one street. Then make the first right before you hit the town market, and continue 100m. Though there’s no ATM, you can change cash inside. For cheap Internet access, look for ào Tåo Tin Hßc, 140 Phát Di_m ®ng, slightly to the right of the left-side entrance to the Cathedral. (☎862 219. 2000 per hr.) Next door to the bus stop is the post office, 16 Trí Chính. (☎862 101. Open daily 6am-10pm.)