Northern Central Vietnam Cúc Ph™£ng National Park

Home to endangered species like the cloud leopard, the Asiatic black bear, and the red-bellied squirrel, Vietnam’s first national park was dedicated by H· Chí Minh in 1963 to preserve the dense forest and wildlife of the area. While visitors would be lucky to see any of the park’s rare wildlife, nature lovers are drawn here for its 307 species of birds and 1000-year-old trees. Located 45km northwest of Ninh Bình, most people see the park in a day, but two- to three-day stays allow for longer treks deeper into the park and a more thorough visit of Cúc Ph™£ng’s attractions.

Orientation

Once inside, it is easy to maneuver around the park. The main road splits the park in two, with trails branching off in either direction. The Visitor Information Center resides in a white building on the right at the park headquarters. The ticket booth and entrance gate are 500m down the road from the information center. The park center and the starting point of six of its trails lies 20km from the entrance gate. The closest trail open to visitors without a park guide begins after a 10min. ride into the heart of the forest from the entrance gate.

Transportation

The best way to reach the park is on motorbike. To get there, follow the directions from Ninh Bình to Kˆnh Gà , but pass over the left turn at the post office and continue straight for another 20km. If you can’t drive yourself, a round-trip xe ®m from Ninh Bình will cost 100,000 to park headquarters and 150,000 to the park center; it may be wiser to hop on an organized tour from Ninh Bình. (Motorbike US$10-$18; 2-day trip by car US$45-70 at the Thuy Anh Hotel.) A bus from the park center back to Ninh Bình can be chartered for US$20-35. Alternatively, buses from Hà Ni’s Giap Bat bus station head to Nho Quan (2 hr.; 8, 9am, noon, 1, 3, 4pm; 27,000). A xe ®m from Nho Quan to park headquarters will cost 30,000.

Practical Information

The National Park Information Centers can be reached at ☎30 848 0006 or www.cucphuongtourism.com. Local hotels offer one- or two-day tours of the park, the latter including a night at the M™ng Village. However, only tours led by a guide and arranged through the park authorities have full access to both marked and unmarked trails. These can last from one to six days and are meant for those wishing to fully exhaust the park’s possibilities. (One-day hikes US$10-15 for groups of 1-5 people. Groups and full-day guide US$20 per day.) Entrance to the park costs 40,000 for adults and 20,000 for children under 15.

Accommodations And Food

There are four ways to spend the night in the park. The government accommodations range from luxury bungalows 3 with air-conditioning and TV (singles US$15, doubles US$20 at headquarters; US$17/25 at the park center) to rooms 3 with a simple fan and private bath (US$15/20 at headquarters and park center; US$15 at Mac Lake area, 2km from headquarters) to shabby dorm beds 1 with a shared bath at headquarters (dorms US$5, rooms US$10 at headquarters; US$6/12 at the park center). All accommodations include mosquito nets. A full listing of accommodations is available at the ticket booth. Those wishing to camp 1 with their own tent may do so in designated areas for US$2 per night. An overnight on cots in the M™ng Village, following the park tour, costs US$5 per person. An alternative to sleeping right in the park is the privately owned Nhà Nghœ Guest House 3, Th®n Ngäba X Cúc Ph™£ng. Only 1km from the park gate, the hotel provides pleasant and colorful singles with fan and private bath. (☎848 033; fax 030 848. Rooms US$10.)

Though refreshment stands greet visitors both at the head of the trail to the Cave of Prehistoric Man and at the park center, they have little to offer but water, soda, and snacks. Those staying in park accommodations can order a meal delivery ahead of time (30,000 min., or US$7-12 for three meals), or eat in the M™ng Village for similarly inflated prices.

Sights

Hidden behind a metal fence, the Endangered Primate Rescue Center lies across from the Visitor Center. Inside are 15 of Vietnam’s 25 species and subspecies of primates, which are brought to the center for rehabilitation before being released into the wild. Some of the residents have been confiscated from hunters, who sell the monkeys to restaurants where they are consumed illegally (see “Iniquitous Delicacies,”), or to China, where the primates are killed and used to make medicine. Opened in 1993, the center, once strictly a research facility, now allows animal lovers to visit its current residents. (Open daily 9-11am and 1:30-4pm. Short tours every 30min. Buy tickets at entrance gate 400m past the Rescue Center. English tour 10,000.)On the way back to the entrance stop by the Visitor Center to sneak a peek at small ecological exhibits as well. (Open daily 8am-4:30pm. Free.) Across from the ticket booth is the Botanical Garden (500 ).

Hiking

You can pick up a free brochure with a map of the park’s routes at the ticket booth. The trails open to self-guided visitors are limited to the Cave of Prehistoric Man, the Ancient Tree, the Thousand-Year-Old Tree, and the Palace Cave. The Cave of Prehistoric Man (Don Ng™i X™a) is a 30min. climb up the mountain. Once inside, crawl through small passages to reach the innermost enclosure where the tap of stalactite-like formations somehow fills the cave with sounds of drums. Don’t forget to bring a flashlight. When making your way back, take heed of the ladder to the right of the exit—those daring enough to climb arrive at a cave above, from which the ladder (or a steep climb and a somewhat difficult first drop) leads back to the cave entrance in about an hour.

Another local favorite is a walk in the forest that leads from the Park Center (to the right of the pillar house) to the monumental Thousand-Year-Old Tree. Rest along the way on tree-stump stools. After 3km along the path you can take the 10-15min. climb up the mountain to the smaller Palace Cave, then backtrack to the original trail. When you reach the tree, continue along the trail on the other side for two to three hours. With a park guide you can step off the Thousand-Year-Old Tree trail to mount the park’s highest peak, Silver Cloudy Top Mountain (650m; 4-5hr.; US$10).

Other hikes that require a guide include a difficult 450m climb to the King’s Son-in-law Cave (6-9hr.) and a spectacular view of the park. You can also take an overnight camping trip to the Ancient Tree (US$20). One popular guided walk is the 3hr. nightspotting tour, where visitors might get glimpses of civets, Samba deer, Indian Flying Squirrels, and tree frogs. You’re at least guaranteed to see lots of insects, so bring repellent. (US$15 per group, max. 5 people.) Other speciality tours, including bamboo rafting along the Buoi river or biking, can be arranged at park headquarters or by email prior to your visit.

The major road from Cúc Ph™£ng to Ninh Bình passes by Van Long, Northern Central Vietnam’s largest wetland reserve. The main attraction for visitors is the 1hr. ride on board bamboo rafts. You’ll be able to spot a lot of waterfowl if you bring your binoculars, and, if you’re lucky, one of the reserve’s 40 Delacour langurs—of only 300 alive worldwide. (From Ninh Bình, take Hwy. 1A 11km north. Turn left, heading towards Kˆnh Gà and Cúc Ph™£ng for 5km. A turn-off to the right will take you to the entrance, 2km down this road. Open daily 7am-4pm. 20,000.)