The Central Highlands Cát Tiˆn National Park

Easily reachable from HCMC or Dà Låt, Cát Tiˆn National Park (V™n Qu®c Gia Cát Tiˆn) offers the traveler a haven from the noisy, overtouristed coast. It also provides a glance into Vietnam’s young national park system and its growing efforts at environmental conservation. Cát Tiˆn boasts a stunning array of flora and fauna, but the average visitor will need patience and persistence to see this side of the park. Songbirds and park rangers keep each other company during the day while geckos and tropical constellations lull you to sleep at night. Though you probably won’t see a the extremely endangered Javan rhinoceros, biologists—lured by the endangered animal—abound. Nightlife consists of passing the evening hours at the riverside canteen, listening to the stories of international biologists—a fate sometimes more enjoyable than partying at a big-city disco.

In 2001, UNESCO designated the park for inclusion in the World Network of Biosphere Reserves. The low-latitude tropical rainforests and jungle contain over 1300 species of vascular plants, 435 species of butterflies, 314 species of birds, and a slew of mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and fresh-water fish. Besides goofy-looking rhinos, the park is also home to one of the few remaining populations of Siamese crocodiles, which became extinct in the park in 1996 and were re-introduced in 2001. The park’s 58 endangered species also include the orange-necked partridge, the white-winged duck, and the white-shouldered ibis.

Transportation. Cát Tiˆn is located 125km north of HCMC and 175km southwest of à Låt and lies 24km off National Hwy. 20. From HCMC, take a bus directly to Nam Cát Tiˆn from Mi]n ®ng Station (4hr.; 8am and frequently thereafter; 30,000). Upon arrival, take a right out of the village bus station and walk down the road. The second building on your right is the entrance office. Two minutes more bring you to the ferry departure point.

Alternatively, take a tourist bus to à Låt (from any tour office; 4hr.; 7:30, 8:30am; 77,000). Tell the driver that you are going to Cát Tiˆn and ask to be let off at Ma u Guí Junction. If you’re coming from à Låt, use the same procedure in reverse; take an HCMC-bound bus (public or open-tour) and ask to be let off at the junction. From there, hire a motorbike to take you the remaining 24km (40min.; 20,000-50,000) to the entrance office and ferry departure point.

The easiest, most comfortable option is to take a tourist bus directly to the park. Sinhbalo Adventures, 283 Phåm Ng´ Lão, HCMC (☎8 837 6766; www.sinhbalo.com), arranges private tours to the park; contact them early, as tours fill up quickly.

Orientation And Practical Information. Foreign visitors must purchase a park entrance ticket at the brown wooden entrance office to Cát Tiˆn. (50,000, children under 15 admission 20,000. Open daily 7am-7pm.) The ferry ride is included in the cost of the ticket. Across the ong Nai river is Park Headquarters, also called “The Center for Eco-tourism and Environmental Education.” (☎669 228; fax 669 159. Open daily 7am-10pm.) Walk up the path from the ferry landing point and take a left; it’s the first large building on the left. A public telephone and a pharmacy are available; take a left out of Park Headquarters, and they will be down the path on your right, across from the Guesthouse (both open 7am-7pm). While some gear can be rented from Park Headquarters (leech socks 3000 per day; forest shoes 5000 per day; electricity generator 30,000 per hr.), there is no comprehensive store with amenities and hiking gear, so be sure to pack all necessities beforehand. Film (145,000) and camera batteries (55,000) are sold at the new canteen. A park curfew begins at 10pm.

Accommodations And Food. Staying in Cát Tiˆn is easy. The park has large but impersonal rooms for rent 2 with private baths and mosquito nets. (Doubles and triples with fan 120,000, with A/C 140,000-180,000.) There are also colorful villas 3, complete with kitchen, mini-fridge, and separate dining and living rooms. (600,000; single floors 200,000-300,000.) Private wooden huts 1 are also available, though they’re bare and basic. (Doubles with fan 90,000.) All accomodations can be rented at Park Headquarters. Check-out is at noon. Large parties should make reservations. Camping sites 1 are also available (15,000 per day), and the truly adventurous can spend a night in the Crocodile Swamp (see below). There is a small building you can sleep in at the edge of the swamp for the same rate as the rooms above, but it requires advanced booking; call Park Headquarters (☎669 228).

There are two canteens at the main compound. Giant geckos join visitors at the thatched-roof old canteen 1, to the right of Park Headquarters, where they serve decent breakfast and late-night beers. (Entrees 10,000-20,000; beer 12,000. Open 7am-late.) Lunch and dinner are served at the newer, bigger, more sterile new canteen 2. Take a left out of Park Headquarters and walk down the path; it will be on your left. (Fruits and omelets 8000-12,000; entrees 10,000-40,000; specialty meats, such as fried eel, kidney, or squid 50,000-100,000. Open daily 7am-10pm.)

Sights And Entertainment. The government recommends that all hiking be done with a guide (60,000-100,000 per half-day). If you do venture out on your own, inform the staff at Park Headquarters of your departure time, destination, and when you plan to report back. Visitors can rent pickup trucks (120,000 per hr.), engine boats (300,000 per hr.), high-speed boats (500,000 per hr.), or bicycles (10,000 per hr., 35,000 per half-day, 60,000 per day; must return by 6pm) to tour the park. Individual site visits and tours may incur additional charge; rates vary depending on time of day and length of trip. Contact park staff in advance to arrange custom tours.

Near Park Headquarters are trails that lead you among an impressive variety of flora, ranging from mango trees to trees with eight-foot-tall roots. Also nearby are the Heaven Rapids, a relaxing place to sunbathe, though not very striking in the dry season. But to have any chance of seeing large animals, you must either push deeper into the forest or head to the Crocodile Swamp, where you can rent a paddle boat (15,000-25,000 per hr.) with or without a driver. Taking a nightspotting trip (155,000) through the park might improve your chances of seeing wildlife, and the drive through the jungle under the stars is well worth the price. Volcanic landforms also abound in and near the park. Cinder cones, lava rocks, and volcanic ash can be found at Ben Cu forest guard station and at the Mo Vet rapids.

Be sure to apply lots of insect repellent. Also be sure to pack rain gear at all times, as storms can appear suddenly. During a storm, it is best to get shelter and head to the nearest guard station or back to Headquarters if possible.

Across from the new canteen is a small entertainment center, with table tennis, billiards, and karaoke. Farther down the path is a swimming pool and tennis, soccer, and volleyball courts. Visitors can also buy T-shirts (20,000) and woven bags (15,000-30,000) at the souvenir shop inside the new canteen.