The Central Highlands Yok Don National Park

Yok Don is Vietnam’s largest national park. This expansive wildlife preserve now encompasses over 1000 square kilometers, stretching from 37km northwest of Bu®n Ma Thuÿt to the Cambodian border. The park is primarily a nature reserve and—like many of Vietnam’s national parks—hosts an abundance of animals, including elephants, monkeys, buffalo, and deer. Like in other parks, though, visitors are unlikely to see any of these animals. The park is officially home to five endangered species, including the panther and a rare species of wild dog, but more are still being discovered. Yok Don borders a stretch of the regal Srepok River, which flows into Cambodia and meets up with the Mekong River before turning back into southern Vietnam and emptying into the South China Sea. Yok Don, though, is not your idyllic jungle park. Besides a thin strip of rainforest along the Srepok and the inaccessible mountains along the border, most of the landscape is grasslands and sparse hardwood forest.

In addition to remarkable flora and fauna, several ethnic minorities, including the Ëdç and the M’nong, inhabit the area and its surrounds. The M’nong have made a name for themselves in  k L k Province as skilled elephant catchers and tamers: Vua San Voi N’thu Knul, also known as Khun Sa Nup (“elephant hunter king”; 1827-1937), is famed for having caught 244 elephants in his lifetime. Legend holds that he once captured a white elephant and gifted it to the king of Thailand, who coined the tamer’s nickname. Khun Sa Nup’s tomb, just outside of Ban Don Village, is worth a visit. It is built in a hybrid architectural style, the squat square building representing the heritage of his M’nong mother and the tall steeple representing that of his Laotian father. A few master elephant catchers still live in the area.

The M’nong people hold elephants in extremely high regard, treating them as they treat their human kin. Indeed, the elephant may be the only animal that does not appear as part of Vietnamese culinary fare. Elephant hunters take pride in capturing, not killing, the majestic beasts. Much of the respect for the animal comes from their utility and helpfulness. Elephants play an important role in M’nong agricultural life, pulling timber and carrying heavy loads. Accordingly, local goods made of ivory are crafted from fallen tusks, not from poaching.

Transportation. Visitors must arrange their own transport to Yok Don National Park. The park is best reached from Bu®n Ma Thuÿt, where groups can arrange transportation at Dam San Tourist or Daklak Tourist (see Practical Information). The cheapest and most convenient way to get there is to rent a motorbike or hire out a motorbike and driver (US$5-7). The entrance to the park cannot be missed from the road that continues west from Bu®n Ma Thuÿt’s Phan Bÿi Chñu. The turn-off for Ban Don Village is 2km up the road on the left. The entrance is also well marked.

Practical Information. Despite the breathtaking biodiversity of Yok Don, the sightseeing options for tourists are limited—tourist infrastructure in Vietnam’s national parks is new and still largely undeveloped. Arranged tours are, unfortunately, the only way you’re guaranteed to see anything, and even then, guides are full of disclaimers. The heavily traveled trails in the park are completely devoid of wildlife, save a few lizards, insects, and occasionally a distant herd of buffalo. Park Headquarters (☎783 049; yokdon@dng.vnn.vn) offers overpriced informational treks by elephant (US$25 per hr., US$100 per day) and foot (US$20 per hr.), as well as overnight stays, but these visits do not venture beyond the Administrative and Ecorestoration Zones, which are devoid of major fauna. For longer and more in-depth excursions (from US$200), contact Headquarters in advance to arrange a two-day tour to Yok Don mountain (482m), the only tour that penetrates the Strictly Protected Zone of the park, home to most of the endangered species. Another option for prearranged touring is to inquire at Daklak Tourist in Bu®n Ma Thuÿt, but they only deal with group tours.

The best bet for short, budget stays is to show up at Ban Don village, 2km past the park entrance. At Ban Don, motorbike or boat tours and trekking trips can be arranged. Also available are elephant rides (US$30 per hr.) and music demonstrations (10,000). If you come in late winter, don’t miss the traditional elephant competitions. Tours from Ban Don range from 3hr. to three days (half-day tours US$5). Excellent village tours are run by Mr. Vu (☎090 505 7890 or 090 783 079). You can also arrange tours in Bu®n Ma Thuÿt at Than Ha Ecotourism, 45 Phan Bÿi Chñu (☎854 903; xuanvupaulbmt@yahoo.com). If you don’t feel like exploring the forest, stay in Ban Don; the locals put on a show for tourists with traditional dress, music (cong-chieng), and rice wine.

Accommodations And Food. Yok Don Guesthouse 2 (☎853 110) is located at Park Headquarters and is serviced by a small canteen. The concrete guesthouse offers limited amenities but easy access to the park’s tourist services (doubles and tents 150,000). Ban Don Village 1 offers an ethnic alternative. Guests can stay in traditional M’nong longhouses, but share relatively close quarters with other tourists (US$5). Alternatively, more private bamboo houses with private bathrooms are available in the village (US$10). If there is a large enough group, locals will put on a traditional ceremony at night. The canteen 1 serves typical Vietnamese food (dishes 10,000-20,000).

Sights. Ban Don is a kitschy village 2km northwest of Yok Don. Near the entrance to the village is a longhouse that doubles as a museum, featuring traditional instruments, multicolored textiles, elephant lassos made of buffalo twine, and pictorial histories of the M’nong people. Most M’nong families work the land, as their ancestors have for centuries; you’ll stumble on a few fields and families if you follow the river 500m upstream from Ban Don. They are used to Westerners stopping by and will be hospitable, though most speak no Western languages and are focused on their work. Ban Don Tourist, 45 Phan Bÿi Chñu (☎854 903 or 783 079; www.bandontour.com.vn), offers tours and runs the local shop.

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More K L K Province in The Central Highlands

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