The Mekong Delta Trà Vinh

The principal point of interest in Trà Vinh is its sizable ethnic Khmer population, which comprises 30% of the town’s population. Although the Khmer people are indistinguishable from other residents in terms of appearance, they have left their mark on the city in the form of many Khmer pagodas. Today, you can admire the electric-colored garb of monks as they wander among the impressive sanctuaries.

Transportation. Buses arrive at the station on Nguy[n áng, near Trà Vinh’s city center, and go to: C<n Th£ (3hr.; 7am; 14,000); Cao Lãnh (3hr.; 7:30am; 20,000); HCMC (5hr.; every hr. 1am-5pm; 26,000); Sa éc (2hr.; 2pm; 14,000); Vænh Long (1hr.; every 30min. 7am-4pm; 20,000).

Orientation And Practical Information. Unlike most other Mekong cities, life in Trà Vinh is not centered around its narrow river, Long Bình, which runs north-south on the eastern edge of town. Instead, the big market, at the intersection of main avenues Pham Thái B™£ng (which becomes i_n Biˆn Ph©) and Nam KÇ Khi Nghæa, is where the action takes place. The latter street runs toward the river, while Lˆ Li, another important street, runs parallel to Pham Thái B™£ng, one block farther from the river.

Trà Vinh Tourist Office, 64-66 Lˆ Li, offers advice about the city and the surrounding province. (☎858 556. Open daily 7-11am and 2-5pm.) Trà Vinh has no ATMs, but there is a bank at 70-72 Lˆ Li with currency exchange and Western Union. (Open daily 7-11am and 1-5pm.) Surf the Internet at 83 Lˆ Li. (☎853 776. Open daily 6am-11pm.) The post office is at 70 Hùng V™£ng, at the intersection with Pham Thái B™£ng. (Phone and fax services. Open daily 6am-9:30pm.)

Accommodations And Food. Vñn Trñm 2, 6 i_n Biˆn Ph©, has clean, fresh rooms, helpful staff, and a prime location on the market square. The cheaper rooms lack windows. (☎858 034. Doubles 120,000-180,000.) Slightly farther away, Hoàn MÅ 3, 105A Nguy[n Th¢ Minh Khai, has attractive, spacious rooms with wooden floors, as well as a very small but stylish bar in the lobby. (☎862 211. Rooms 160,000-340,000.) C¸u Long 4, 999 Nguy[n Th¢ Minh Khai (actually located among the early 1000s), is a modern three-star hotel with two restaurants and a karaoke bar. (☎862 615. Rooms US$17-37.)

For food, try Túy H©òng 1, 8 i_n Biˆn Ph©, which serves Chinese dishes and has a view of the market. (☎858 312. Entrees 15,000). Tanh Båch 1, 103 Tr<n Qu#c Tu+n, makes a variety of noodle soups. (Soups 12,000. Open daily 7am-10pm.)

Sights. In the city center, Ông Mt Pagoda (on Lˆ Li, just north of its intersection with ™ng 19/5) is easily distinguished by the large Khmer inscription over its gates. Some of the buildings here are a bit run down, but they’re currently being restored to their former grandeur. Âng Pagoda, 6km southwest of the city center off Nguy[n Th¢ Minh Khai, isn’t particularly impressive, but it’s home to some very friendly monks and is located next to Ao Bà Om, a square, lily pad-covered pond surrounded by the shade of trees. There is also a little collection of Khmer cultural items opposite the entrance to the pagoda. (Open daily 7:30-11am and 1:30-5pm. Free.)  Hang Pagoda, about 6km south of the city center on i_n Biˆn Ph©, is in mint condition. The main hall boasts a brilliant multi-tiered roof. Inside, large murals depicting the life of Buddha cover the walls, and many gold statues of him adorn the altar. If you come just before dusk, especially during the rainy season, you may catch flocks of storks swooping in among the treetops. Aside from the Khmer pagodas, the only sight in Trà Vinh is the Uncle Ho Temple (D]n Th¤ Bác), about 5km north of the city center off Lˆ Li. It’s interesting how well maintained this place is when so many of the city’s houses of worship are crumbling. The temple complex includes a shrine to H· Chí Minh, as well as a small museum displaying photos of his life and of events in Trà Vinh. There are also several US Army vehicles on display outside Curiously, the closest translation we could find of the building’s name came to “Temple of Uncle Rabbit.” We don’t understand it either. (Open daily 7-11am and 1-5pm. Free.)