As the unofficial capital of the Mekong Delta, C<n Th£ is the most popular tourist destination south of H· Chí Minh City. The wide boulevards and elegant waterfront invite leisurely strolls among some of the best restaurants in the region. Boat tours of the surrounding canals saunter past floating markets, fruit orchards, and peaceful villages. The quiet and insular demeanor of the city conveys the sensibilities of the Mekong as a whole—bustling with its unique commercial ventures, immersed in the rhythm of day-to-day business, and full of surprising peculiarities.
From the bus station, Nguy[n Trãi leads southeast into the city center, curving a bit to the west to become Phan ình Phùng, which runs north-south through the city. Hòa Bình, the city’s main thoroughfare, branches southwest off Phan ình Phùng at a central rotary. The city center lies at the confluence of the C<n Th£ and HÆu Rivers. From this meeting point, Hai Bà Tr™ng runs south along the main waterfront, past a statue of H· Chí Minh, and into the market area. Hai Bà Tr™ng connects to Hòa Bình via east-west Chñu Vn Liˆm, which is called Nguy[n An Ninh by the river.
Aside from the standard tourist services, C<n Th£ offers film developing at Qu#c Huy, 46 Hai Bà Tr™ng. (☎825 484. 1500 per picture. Open daily 8am-8pm.)
Hotels abound in C<n Th£. Expensive options lie along the waterfront, but there are several popular budget accommodations on Ng® c Kˆ.
C<n Th£ is blessed with a number of good restaurants, ranging from typical Vietnamese fare to exotic Mekong specialties. The main market is between Hai Bà Tr™ng and the waterfront at Phan Chu Trinh. (Open daily 7am-9pm.) To stock up on snacks or booze, try C<u Tre, a minimart at 19 ·ng Khi. (☎825 609. Open daily 6am-9pm.) There is also a grocery store at 27 Phan ình Phùng, where it intersects with Tran Trào. (☎825 485. Open daily 7am-8pm.)
Exploring the network of canals around C<n Th£ by boat is the highlight of a visit to the area. The floating markets are the city’s main attraction, but they start early: the best time to visit is 6-8am. Boat operators congregate around the pier on Hai Bà Tr™ng, near its intersection with Ng® Quy]n, eager for business—you can rent rowboats for US$2 per hr., or motorboats for US$3 per hr. Boat tours also typically pass by riverside pagodas and mangrove swamps, stopping at fruit orchards, where you can sample the bounty for a small fee (10,000-20,000).
C<n Th£ Museum. As far as presentation goes, this is one of the best museums in southern Vietnam. Signs in both Vietnamese and English explain diverse and detailed exhibits, providing insight into the history and culture of the province. You can even walk through a life-size model pagoda—as if Vietnam didn’t have enough real pagodas. Special exhibitions are on display periodically. (6 Phan ình Phùng. ☎820 955. Open Tu-Th 8-11am and 2-5pm, Sa-Su 8-11am and 6:30-9pm. Free.)
Cái Rng. The city’s closest and most important floating market, Cái Rng is the most popular tourist destination in C<n Th£. The market is dominated by farmers selling fruits and vegetables in bulk, and you’ll find that the enticing smells of their goods—pineapple, jackfruit, rambutan—travel quickly to your nose. Smaller boats and canoes weave through the maze selling coffee, soda, and baguettes, just like a street market. (7km from C<n Th£; 2hr. by boat.)
Khánh Quang Pagoda. This pagoda features a peculiarly attractive young Buddha with a neon halo. The first floor serves as a meeting and dining room for the young monks who are schooled there; the main shrine is on the second floor. Take the steps up at the left end of the building. (At the corner of Hòa Bình and Nam KÇ Khi Nghæa. Open daily 7am-10pm. Free.)
C<n Th£ Church. The local Christian house of worship, built in classic French colonial style. Go in the mid-afternoon to hear the youth choir rehearse. (On Nguy[n Th¢ Minh Khai, midway between Phan ình Phùng and the bridge. Daily mass at 6:30am. Free.)
Ninth Military Section Museum. Several Russian tanks (used by the North Vietnamese) and an enormous ground-to-air missile are the best displays in this American War museum. A damaged US fighter jet and the remains of a US helicopter are also present. The museum is worth at least a walk through. (8 Hòa Bình. Open Su 8-11am and 7-9pm, Tu and Th-Sa 8-11am and 2-4pm. Free.)
Ông Pagoda. If you’re strolling along the waterfront, take a quick stop at Ông Pagoda, which stands across from the H· Chí Minh statue. This Chinese pagoda is notable for figurine-laden rafters, but what really sets it apart are the scores of enormous incense coils hanging from the ceiling. (Open daily 7am-10pm. Free.)
Muniransyarama Pagoda. This pagoda serves the local Khmer population and stands out from its surroundings with ornate, colorful flourishes. Be careful: the monks’ dormitory compound surrounds the base of the temple—don’t go in through the wrong door. (38 Hòa Bình. Open daily 7am-10pm. Free.)
H· Chí Minh Museum. Offers a look at the man and his achievements, through photos, writings, and memoirs. Just like every other H· Chí Minh museum in the country, but with a southern Mekong twist. (6 Hòa Bình. Open Tu and Th-Sa 8-11am and 2-4pm, Su 8-11am and 7-9pm. Free.)
Ph™£ng Village. Life is entirely intertwined with the waters at this serene village, built upon utter swampland with houses suspended on stilts. Every 50m or so, wooden planks form bridges over the dozens of crisscrossing canals. Take a walk or a bike ride around the village and traverse the dynamic landscape. Go in deep enough and you will reach the rice fields upon which this community thrives. (Follow Phan ình Phùng south, take a right at the T-junction, and cross the bridge. 2.5km outside of town, the turn-off is a dirt path with a small wooden sign marked “Phƒc H!i Phuÿc.” Free.)
M™i Bé’S Fruit Garden. The humble and welcoming M™i will happily show you around what has become his 30-year, post-war abode. The 10,000-square-meter plot contains everything from sour cherries to hot chilis to violet orchids to the enigmatic watercoconut (a red, spiky fruit that grows on riverside palm trees). Basically, this is the place to feed your fruit curiosity. Pick whatever you like off the trees; if you ask, M™i’s wife will even cook a homemade meal for you. The swinging hammocks, spotted dogs, and pet monkey Mai make it an excellent mid-day rest point. (32km from C<n Th£; 4-5hr. by boat. Lunch and fruit 5000-20,000.)
Phong I]N. The market in Phong i]n is a lively scene, integrating both the streets and the river. Stalls and eateries line the banks, making it a convenient rest stop along the river. The virtually untouristed area is a pleasant escape from transit-heavy C<n Th£. There is also a guesthouse 1 at 126 Áp Thi Tu (☎850 014), to the immediate left of the bridge on the main road, which offers basic hostel-like rooms for a mere 60,000 per person. There’s a post office, pharmacy, and Western Union along the same road. As for food, an unnatural number of sugarcane juice and sandwich stands populates the town—literally dozens line the streets half a kilometer past the bridge. For sit-down fare, Quàn C£m 1, 89 Áp Thi Tu, serves tofu-stuffed tomatoes, Mekong-spiced meats, and an unusual array of rice noodles for 5000-15,000. (☎850 434. Open daily 7am-10pm.) Cafe Trang 1, 155 Áp Thi Tu, whose friendly staff leave the Discovery Channel playing in the background, serves drinks (4000-6000) and some simple food. (☎850 253. Open daily 7am-8pm.) Cafe Ng<n uyˆn 1, 85 Áp Thi Tu, serves simple coffee and drinks. (☎859 570. Open daily 7am-11pm.) All in all, this quiet town is worth a relaxed daytrip or overnight. (Phong i]n is 18km from C<n Th£; 30min. by motorbike, 2hr. by boat.)
Phƒng Hi_p. Known for its trade in snakes and snake products, Phƒng Hi_p’s market (situated both on the water and in the street) is worth a stop. Snakes—from giant boa constrictors to small green gardeners—are sold live, and with some persistence. Vendors are highly conscious of police monitoring, as the sale of some species is prohibited, so be discreet and do not take photos. The snakes will either be crawling around in cages set on the streetside, or conspicuously empty cages will signal that the snakes are for sale deeper within the store. (36km from C<n Th£; 1hr. by motorbike, 4hr. by boat.)
To beat the heat, you can take a dip in the swimming pool at the Golf Hotel; admission is US$2 for non-guests. There is also the new C<n Th£ Water Park on the north side of the city with plenty of slides, inner tubes, and pools. (☎763 373; www.canthowaterpark.com. Open daily 8am-7pm. 40,000.) Travelers with children may consider the evening kiddie rides on Hòa Bình—there are some on the grounds of the H· Chí Minh Museum and some in the public park across from Chñu Vn Liˆm. The rides open up at dusk. On weekend nights, Vietnamese and foreigners alike bust out their dance moves at the Golf Hotel Discotheque, on the mezzanine level of the Golf Hotel. (Drinks 40,000-60,000. Open daily until midnight. Happy hour 5-11:30pm. Dance music starts around 9pm.) VIP2, 6 Hòa Bình, serves coffee, fruit shakes, ice cream, and light mixed drinks, and is always packed with hip Vietnamese youth in the evenings. (Most drinks under 20,000. Open daily 7am-11pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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