The Mekong Delta Båc Liêu

The symbol of Båc Liˆu is the white heron—a fitting icon, as the main draw of this sleepy provincial capital is its nearby bird sanctuary (V™n Nhãn), 5km outside of town. Avian enthusiasts come armed with binoculars to observe the more than 50 bird species that nest here. Rainy-season visits are recommended, as this is the best time to spot the birds. Whether you’re a bird watcher or not, the  view from the sanctuary’s tall observation tower takes in the vast flats around the rivers and rice that stretch between C<n Th£ and Cà Mau. (Open daily 6am-8pm. 10,000.) Next to the sanctuary is a small fruit garden, where visitors can roam about and pick fruit straight from the trees. (Open daily 7am-8pm. 10,000-20,000.) About 4km beyond the bird sanctuary is Båc Liˆu Beach (Bãi Bi]n Båc Liˆu). Leave your swim trunks at home—it’s actually an enormous tidal flat. Locals come with buckets and spears to catch crabs, oysters, clams, and the many other small critters that make their home there. Roll up your pants, cast off your shoes, and wade around in the mud. Pagoda lovers might want to check out Xiˆm Cán, about 7km southeast of the city center. This Khmer pagoda is unremarkable on the outside, but the cavernous sanctuary, decorated in carved wood and covered in murals, makes the interior worth a look.

The classiest place to stay in the city is C®ng T Båc Liˆu 3, 13 i_n Biˆn Ph©. This “restored” French colonial villa boasts elegant rooms and a waterfront location. This may be the place to splurge—it’s rare and fun to stay in an authentic French villa. (☎953 304. Rooms 220,000-500,000.) In the budget range, Ki]u H#i 2, 28 Hòa Bình, offers cheerful rooms and a friendly staff. (☎952 185. Rooms 120,000-180,000.) Båc Liˆu Guesthouse 1, 8 L• T Trßng, has reasonably comfortable rooms (60,000-180,000). For an interesting meal, head to H™£ng Bi€n 2 at Båc Liˆu Beach. This restaurant is built right over the tidal flat, and huge windows allow patrons to gaze out over it as it stretches toward the horizon. Not surprisingly, the specialty is shellfish. (Most entrees 25,000-55,000. Open daily 7am-9pm.) Back in the city center, Ki]u H#i 1, on the ground floor of the guesthouse, offers tasty Vietnamese fare in a pleasant setting. (Entrees 8000-15,000.)

Buses arrive at the station on Tr+n Phú, about 1km from the city center, and head to C<n Th£ (3hr.; 35,000) and HCMC (8hr.; 68,000) throughout the day. Several buses also depart in the morning for Cà Mau (1hr.; 20,000) and Sóc Trng (1hr.; 35,000). Tr+n Phú is the city’s main drag; it runs southeast from the bus station through the city center and meets the Båc Liˆu River. After crossing the river, it becomes Lˆ H#ng Phong and eventually Cao Vn Láu, which leads out to the bird sanctuary and the beach. i_n Biˆn Ph© runs along the river, past market stalls and a couple of French colonial villas. Båc Liˆu Tourist Office, 2 Hoàng Vn Thƒ, has a helpful staff who can provide information on the region; several of them speak English. The office also does Vietnam Airlines booking. (☎824 272. Open daily 6am-10pm.) Incombank, 1 Hai Bà Tr™ng, handles currency exchange, does MC/V cash advances, and has a Western Union. (Open daily 7-11am and 1-5pm.) There is a 24hr. ATM at C®ng T Båc Liˆu (see above). A pharmacy sits at the corner of Tr<n Phú and Bá Tri_u. (Open daily 7am-9pm.) The post office is located at 20 Tr<n Phú. (☎824 242. Phone and fax services. Open daily 6am-10pm.)