As one local put it, Phú Qu#c has got the whole package. From fantastic beaches to wild forests to enchanting marine life, this “Emerald Island” offers treasures to every visitor. Though tourism is not yet well developed here, the island is widely known for its fish sauce, black pepper, and unique breed of dogs (identifiable by the spots of spiral hair on their back). Roughly 70% of the island is covered in jungles, and restaurants on the island cook up over 1000 different species of seafood. It’s no wonder that Cambodia, Thailand, and Vietnam have all laid claim to it in the past. Not too long ago, the island was largely undeveloped, except for a few villages and some military bases. However, the tourist industry has since caught on to Phú Qu#c’s enormous potential, and new resorts and services are cropping up every minute. Plans are in the works to make it an international destination, and it seems only a matter of time before it loses its reputation as the best-kept secret in Vietnam—be sure to see it before it’s too late.
Phú Qu#c has three entry and exit points: D™£ng ®ng, Hàm Ninh, and An Thøi.
Phú Qu#c Island is 120km from Råch Giá, 45km from Hà Tiˆn, and covers 593 sq. km in total. The island measures 48km from north to south and an average of 12km from east to west (25km at its widest point). D™£ng ®ng, in the middle of the western coast of the island, is the main town, and most travelers choose to stay around here. The fishing hamlet of An Thøi is about 28km south of D™£ng ®ng, on the southern tip of the island. Hàm Ninh, another fishing town, is on the eastern side of the island, almost opposite D™£ng ®ng. Bai Th£m, a small collection of fisherman’s huts, is the main outpost on the northern side. Dirt and some paved roads connect smaller villages around the island.
D™£ng ®ng itself is hardly more than a few streets. The town’s two major streets are Nguy[n Trung Trc and ™ng 30/4, which snake inland from the western coast. Both originate at Båch }ng, which runs along the mouth of the D™£ng ®ng River. Two blocks inland, ™ng 30/4 intersects Tr<n H™ng åo (called L• T Trßng north of this intersection), which heads southward along the island’s edge. It becomes a dirt road before passing by the resorts on Long Beach.
An Thøi is composed of only two streets—Khu Ph# 3, which runs from the entrance of the town past the market, ending at the docks, makes a T-junction with Khu Ph# 1. There’s only one street in Hàm Ninh; the main road threads through the town and ends as a 100m long pier jutting out into the sea.
In D™£ng ®ng, H™£ng Bi€n (☎846 113), on Tr<n H™ng åo, is a hotel run by KienGiang Tourist Office, where the staff can provide you with free maps and general information. Tours and vehicle rentals are most easily arranged through the resorts. Kien Long Foreign Exchange, 41 ™£ng 30/4, does MC/V cash advances, cashes traveler’s checks, and conducts Western Union wire transfers. (Open daily 7-11am, 1:30-5pm.) The ever-reliable Vietcombank, 20 ™£ng 30/4, offers all banking services, including currency exchange and an ATM. (☎981 036. Open daily 7-11am and 1-4pm.) There’s also a 24hr. ATM inside the lobby of the Sàigòn-PhúQu#c Hotel. The hospital (☎846 074), 1km outside of town on ™ng 30/4, has emergency service. There are other hospitals in An Thøi, Hàm Ninh, B=i Th£m, and M©i D™£ng. There is a pharmacy in D™£ng ®ng at 24 Nguy[n Trãi (☎846 369) and another at 55 Ng® Quy]n. (Both open daily 7am-7pm.) Satisfy your Internet craving at 13 Nguy[n Trãi (4000 per hr.; open daily 8am-10pm). It’s also free for customers at Carole (see Food). The post office, on ™ng 30/4, has international calling and fax services. (Open daily 6:30am-10pm.)
The number of accommodations on Phú Qu#c Island is rapidly growing. Currently, the most popular places to stay are the resorts along Long Beach, just south of D™£ng ®ng. The hotels in town tend to be more expensive and less convenient than those on the beach. There are also a few resorts situated on more secluded areas of the beach. Note that hot water does not come standard with accommodations in Phú Qu#c, so you’ll need to ask for it specifically.
Many of the resorts along Long Beach have their own restaurants and bars, as well as Internet access. In most cases, guests have the option of staying in beachside bungalows (large furnished huts, often made of bamboo) or hotel rooms. The resorts don’t have numbered addresses, but they’re clearly marked by signs, and most taxi and motorbike drivers are familiar with them.
Clean beaches are far away, and the air smells persistently of fish in this southern port town. However, for those who feel the need to spend a night at the docks, or who prefer the shorter drive to Sao Beach, there are a few options.
For those looking to get away from it all, the resorts along Ông Lang Beach, 10km north of D™£ng ®ng, or Vòng Beach, 10km south of Hàm Ninh, offer a more remote setting. The resorts listed below have attached restaurants and bars.
The restaurants at the resorts typically offer both Vietnamese and Western cuisine. Aside from restaurants, there are a number of options around D™£ng ®ng and in An Thøi. The outdoor market on Ng® Quy]n in D™£ng ®ng has fresh fruits and veggies. There’s also a convenience store in town at 37 ™ng 30/4 and a grocery store at 5 Nguy[n Trãi. (☎847 367. Open daily 8am-8pm.) Additionally, a gourmet liquor store called Twist is at 144 ™ng 30/4, carrying an impressive array of imported wines and spirits. (☎982 165. Open daily 8am-8pm.)
There are several good eateries in D™£ng ®ng, ranging from humble bakeries to a gourmet restaurant and bar.
The seafood here comes right off the docks—try it. We know, it’s good.
Phú Qu#c’s beaches are considered some of the very best in Vietnam. The military has unfortunately claimed many of them, but ample stretches of sand still remain open. Long Beach (Bãi Tr™ng) stretches from D™£ng ®ng to An Thøi. Soft yellow sand and a smooth shoreline make it the island’s hot spot. Ten kilometers farther up the coast, Ông Lang Beach (Bãi Ông Lang) is somewhat rockier than Long Beach, making it great for marine life. But the best is Sao Beach (Bãi Sao), on the eastern side of the island. This tranquil cove, featuring crystal-blue waters and powdery white sand, is well worth the ride down a bumpy dirt road. In the center of Phú Qu#c are several natural hot springs. The local favorite is Su#i á Bán, a series of waterfalls and bathing pools. The hilly northern part of the island is dominated by lush forests, environmentally protected but open to exploration.
The best way to explore these parts is by motorbike. Riders should be careful to heed weather conditions, as the dirt roads can become very dangerous during the rainy season. The northeastern stretch, between Hàm Ninh and Bãi Th£m, is the most beautiful, but also the most treacherous. The road follows the coastline, heading into the hills and over a number of streams, which in many cases are bridged only by precarious wooden logs. The road is being developed and paved, but for now, motorbikers should consider packing rope, a sleeping bag, and a tent, just in case they get stuck in the mud. Also, be aware of your fuel consumption: gas stations are confined to the four main cities, and huts with spare gas are few and far between, especially in the more isolated eastern side.
Beyond the southern tip of Phú Qu#c are the An Thøi Islands, an archipelago of smaller islands which offer excellent snorkeling and scuba diving. Some of the resorts rent boats (US$20-30 per day), and most can arrange transportation. Fishing trips, including the illustrious night-squid trip, run from November to June.
A wealth of colorful and exotic creatures dwell in the gulf around Phú Qu#c. The wonderfully warm waters (15-27˚C) and the trail of islands that stretches southward make the area particularly pleasant for diving. Several dive shops run organized trips, offering “try dives” for newbies (US$50), “fun dives” for the certified (US$40), and training courses at both basic (US$220) and advanced (US$180) levels. Prices include all gear and lunch.
Diving in Phú Qu#c is considered second to Nha Trang in quality because of occlusion and visibility issues. However, the cities’ respective diving seasons are opposite each other, due to their different rainy seasons. Most dive shops in Phú Qu#c operate only from September through May, closing down in the rainy months (June to August), moving staff and instructors north to Nha Trang.
Most resorts are affiliated with one of the dive shops below, and can arrange excursions. Snorkeling equipment can also be rented or borrowed from many of the resorts, and dive shops run snorkeling trips as well (US$20). Daytrips for both diving and snorkeling depart around 7:30am and return around 2pm. Several of the dive and snorkel sites are near the Thailand or Cambodia’s maritime border, so take your passport onto the boat in case of checks by coastal police.
Most travelers come to the island to explore its natural features, but there are a few quirky attractions along the way that you may want to investigate.
Phú QuC Pearl Gallery. A series of placards and showcases explain the surprisingly complex process of creating pearls. Check out the oysters that have been made to grow heart-shaped pearls. You can also purchase jewelry here for US$50-400. (On Long Beach, just south of Beach Club Resort. ☎980 585; www.treasuresfromthedeep.com. Open daily 8am-5:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.)
Cay Dua Prison. During the colonial period, the French law enforcement sent Vietnamese outcasts to this site of tropical isolation. An intimidating red fist dominates the center of the French-designed grounds. (Open daily 7:30am-4:30pm. Free.)
Fish Sauce Factories. Phú Qu#c is widely renowned for its superb fish sauce (n™øc m m), exporting six to 10 million liters each year. There are a number of fish sauce factories around D™£ng ®ng, and many owners are willing to let visitors wander around the gigantic wooden vats. (Open daily 8am-7pm. Free.)
Pepper Groves. Another common sight (and smell) on the island are the pepper groves, easily distinguished by their neat rows of wooden posts. In 2006, Vietnam surpassed India to become the world’s leading producer of black pepper. Walk through the groves to catch a glimpse of the tiny clumps of peppercorns. Again, owners generally don’t mind visitors. (Free.)
Nhà Tù Phú QuC. This liberation monument has the shape of a man cut out in the middle. Look closely and you’ll see that he’s breaking free of his chains. The monument itself is not much, but the view of the island’s hills and surrounding ocean from this point is stellar. (On the road south, between Long Beach and An Thøi. Free.)
Temples And Pagodas. There are several religious sites on the island. Among them, Nguy[n Trung Trc Temple, at the island’s northwest corner near M´i D™£ng, pays homage to the 19th-century anti-colonialist leader who raided the French warship Espérance. The Sùng H™ng Pagoda, in D™£ng ®ng, is an ornate and beautiful religious complex. (Both open daily 7am-5pm. Free.)
Dinh Cñu. While not particularly impressive, this large rock and the lighthouse on top of it provide a great view of the harbor’s colorful fishing boats. (On the end of Båch }ng in D™£ng ®ng. Open daily 7am-5:30pm. Free.)
To be pampered and primped, try the beauty salon at Sàigòn-PhúQu#c Resort, which offers everything from manicures to massages. (25,000-100,000; verify prices beforehand. Open daily 8am-midnight.) Alternatively, you can let the local masseuses come to you—they regularly roam Long Beach in the afternoons and evenings and will give you a one-hour rubdown for 50,000.
At night, head to Cung Cafe, 51 D™ng 30/4. It’s a cafe by day, bar by night, and hip place to hang at any time. The common bookshelf includes English romance novels, free maps of the island, and guidebooks. (☎982 363; cungcafes@yahoo.com. Beer 10,000-15,000; mixed drinks 30,000-50,000; non-alcoholic juices and shakes 8000-12,000. Open daily 7am-10pm.)
Th£m Island is a 1hr. boat ride from the south end of Phú Qu#c.Tours are best arranged through dive shops in Phú Qu#c and include transportation and lunch. Dive shops typically offer snorkeling and a range of diving trips. Private boats (US$20-30) can also be arranged. Because of the island’s proximity to the maritime borders of Thailand and Cambodia, foreigners should take their passports with them on the boat. The island itself is uninhabited and camping is not allowed.
Th£m Island, and the string of islands around it, offers a wonderful view into the Gulf of Thailand’s underwater life. Directly south of Phú Qu#c, the ocean floor here descends steeply, from three to 20 meters and deeper. Snorkelers can see a variety of corals, and deep divers have the rare chance of seeing sharks and sting rays when visibility is good (Sept.-May).
The south side of Th£m Island offers colorful coral beds from six to 14 meters long. Pink coral sprawls across vast portions of the ocean floor, creating tile mosaics, while green brain coral and palm-size touch-me-nots litter the landscape. Divers should be careful, as the terrain is highly variable—there are many large boulders and outcrops, so stay aware of your periphery and be careful not to hit your head. Also, be sure to avoid the thousands of black sea urchins and their long piercing tentacles. In between Th£m Island and its western neighbor, Da Island, you can find fan corals and sands filled with cast-away shells. More than the corals, though, the highlight of these waters are the big fish: manta rays, sting rays, barricudas, and baby sharks can be found at depths of around 15m. Shallow-water schools include striped tigerfish, bright blue parrotfish, giant purple angelfish, paired butterflyfish, and the ever-playful clownfish.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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