The Mekong Delta Long Xuyên

For those travelers seeking to explore the rural attractions of An Giang Province, capital city Long Xuyˆn can serve as a useful jumping-off point, with the provincial tourist office located in the city. Unfortunately, the city itself doesn’t have much to offer tourists, although a river tour is an enjoyable way to spend a few hours. Like so many other Vietnamese towns, the reason to come to Long Xuyˆn is to leave it, and there are two primary daytrips from town, both of which are Vietnamese historical sights. The first, situated across the river from the city center, is MÅ Hòa H™ng Island. The island was the birthplace of T®n c Th ng, who succeeded H· Chí Minh to become Vietnam’s second president . A memorial area on the island features the leader’s tomb, an exhibition hall with photos and remnants of his life, and the simple wooden house that served as his childhood home. Visitors can visit the island by boat or arrange a longer homestay with the tourist office. Those who stay overnight will be treated to renditions of local music and home-cooked food typical of the region. (Museum open daily 7-11am and 1-5pm. Free.) The second worthy daytrip is the more ancient Óc Eo, 40km from Long Xuyˆn. This city was once an important port at the height of the Funan Kingdom (AD first to sixth centuries), whose wealth came from controlling trade and commerce between the east and west. Its buildings were constructed on piles of stone, connected by a network of irrigation and transport canals. After the fall of the kingdom, the port went out of use, and the site lay submerged for centuries before it was rediscovered in the 1940s. Artifacts recovered from the grounds indicate that the people in this region had contact with China, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Persia, and even the Roman Empire. Among the artifacts are written accounts of the city’s activities, scrawled by Chinese emissaries and travelers. (Open daily 7am-5pm. Free.)

Long Xuyˆn has several large luxury hotels. Its budget accommodations generally hold less appeal. Long Xuyˆn Hotel 2, 19 Nguy[n Vn C™ng, has clean and comfortable rooms at reasonable prices and a very helpful staff. (☎841 927; fax 842 483. Breakfast included. Rooms US$9-16.) A more basic budget option with friendly staff is Xuñn Ph™ng 1, 68 Nguy[n Trãi. (☎841 041. Rooms 80,000-200,000.) ®ng Xuyˆn Hotel 4, 9A L™£ng Vn Cù, is the fanciest place in town, with services including sauna, jacuzzi, and massage. (☎942 260; dongxuyenag@hcm.vnn.vn. Breakfast included. Rooms US$20-45.) Although Long Xuyˆn has innumerable cafes, it is rather lacking in quality restaurants. H·ng Phát 2, 242/4 L™£ng Vn Cù, is one exception—this cheerful place has a variety of delicious Vietnamese meals. (Most dishes 20,000-40,000. Open daily 10am-9pm.) The restaurant atop ®ng Xuyˆn Hotel 2 offers elegant ambience, excellent city views, and a surprisingly affordable menu. (Most meals under 40,000. Open daily 6am-10pm.) Not far from the docking area at the end of Nguy[n Hu_ is the colorful and lively floating market, where fruits and vegetables are piled high on boats.

Buses arrive at the Long Xuyˆn station about 1km outside the city center on Tr<n H™ng åo, and head to the following destinations several times each morning: C<n Th£ (1hr.; 20,000); Chñu #c (1hr.; 17,000); HCMC (4hr.; 68,000); Råch Giá (3hr.; 27,000). Motorboats are available for hire (30,000 per hr.) at the end of Nguy[n Hu_. From the bus station, Tr<n H™ng åo runs along the edge of the city center and meets the Catholic church, whose massive spire serves as a helpful navigational landmark. Perpendicular to Tr<n H™ng åo, major thoroughfare Nguy[n Hu_ runs from the church past a T®n c Th ng statue and up to the HÆu River, whose waterfront is crowed with market stalls. An Giang Tourimex Travel Service Center, 17 Nguy[n Vn C™ng, is the best place to get information on the province. The office also books tours and homestays on MÅ Hòa H™ng Island. (☎841 036; www.angiangtourimex.com. Open daily 7-11am and 1-5pm.) The main bank, 1 Hùng V™£ng, has an ATM, does currency exchange and MC/V cash advances, and cashes traveler’s checks. (Open daily 7-11am and 1-5pm.) There is also a convenient Vietcombank ATM in the lobby of ®ng Xuyˆn Hotel. Internet can be found at 312/4 Tr<n H™ng åo. (3000 per hr. Open daily 7:30am-10pm.) There is a post office on Ng® Gia T, near its intersection with Nguy[n Vn C™ng. (Phone and fax services. Open daily 6am-10pm.)