For years both the primary French port in central Vietnam and a nerve center of the American war machine, à N{ng today has shifted into a low-key role. Between Hu\ to the northwest and Hÿi An to the southeast, Vietnam’s fourth-largest city is skipped over completely by most tourists. Though it’s a booming seaport and commercial center with a fairly large expat population, à N{ng itself offers little to captivate. The surrounding countryside, however, is a different story. The environs of à N{ng include mountaintop resorts with spectacular vistas, secluded beaches with fresh seafood restaurants, and rice paddies melting into jungle. All of this centers on one of Vietnam’s fastest-growing cities, which boasts the nation’s best Chàm museum, a newly rebuilt waterfront, trendy restaurants, and friendly locals who speak good English. With the help of foreign investment and resort-minded tourists, major areas of à N{ng are under construction as the city gets back on its feet after liberation. Budget travel also exists, though under the radar; streets are lined with food and beer stalls, and budget guesthouses are sprouting up next to pagodas. For any traveler wanting to get away from camera-toting tourists, à N{ng and its surroundings are worth at least a couple of days.
Almost at the center of Vietnam, 750km south of Hà Nÿi and 990km north of HCMC, à N{ng is bounded in the east by the Hàn River and in the north by à N{ng Bay. The beautiful main boulevard, Båch }ng, runs along the river’s west bank. Traffic is one-way going north above the Chàm Museum. One block inland, Tr<n Phú runs parallel to Båch }ng, with traffic going one-way south. Four blocks inland, Lˆ Li, which becomes Phan Chu Trinh south of its intersection with Lˆ Du>n, is the major north-south artery. These three streets are intersected by i_n Biˆn Ph©—also called Ly Thái T% and Hùng V™£ng as it runs east—the east-west road that branches off Hwy. 1 and bisects the city. A few blocks north, Lˆ Du>n ends in a bridge across the river. The city’s southern boundary, Nguy[n Vn Tr!i, runs east over the Hàn River and toward the Marble Mountains, China Beach, and Hÿi An.
Budget travelers usually bypass à N{ng, so most hotels tend to cater to businesspeople and the resort crowd; however, there are some cheap beds hidden around the city for expats and budget visitors.
Though the food in à N{ng lacks the luster of nearby Hÿi An and Hu\, the city is by no means a culinary wasteland. Dining options vary from the ever-present food stalls selling rice, soup, and grilled meat, to a crowd of Chinese restaurants, a smattering of Western offerings, and a growing number of expensive Japanese restaurants catering to Japanese businessmen. Fun ice-cream and bubble tea shops litter the streets. There are two markets in town: Ch Hàn, on the river by the intersection of Hùng V™£ng and Tr<n Phú, sells fruits, vegetables, flowers, and various foods (open daily 6am-8pm); Ch C®n is near the intersection of Hùng V™£ng and Ông Ích Khiˆm, focusing more on cloth and clothing (open daily 6:30am-6:30pm). Hùng V™£ng itself is lined with Western-style goods at Vietnamese prices.
Chàm Museum. This small but celebrated museum boasts the best exhibition of Chàm sculpture in the nation. Open-air galleries showcase sandstone sculptures from the 4th to the 16th centuries, organized by their recovery location (including MÅ S£n). Exquisite and well-preserved works of the Champa people have been collected from all over Vietnam and brought here. Each priceless piece of art—ranging from an “elephant-tiger” to dancing women—is labeled in Vietnamese, English, and French; tour guides and guidebooks aren’t really necessary here; just enjoy the intricate and fantastical creations of the Champa. The souvenir store offers many informative books about the religion and history of the Chàm. Likewise, Mr. Louis, a kind old Vietnamese man who speaks pretty good English and French, offers thoughtful 20-minute tours around the museum for 16,000 . This museum is especially rewarding after visiting MÅ S£n, as everything missing from there is found here. Make sure to check out the Buddha and Shiva sculptures at the back of the gallery. (1 Båch }ng, on the southern end of town past the merging of Tr<n Phú and Båch }ng. Open daily 7am-5pm. 30,000, children 5,000.)
À N{Ng Waterpark. One of the largest waterparks in Vietnam, this refreshing destination boasts six big slides, a zip line, a wave pool, and a lazy river. The tallest slide is 40m high and provides a nice view of the sprawling city. Bring water shoes if you can; the bricks around the park get remarkably hot. Go on a weekday and you’ll have the place to yourself. (Lockers 3000. 30,000, children 15,000.)
Cao Ài Temple. This is the largest Cao ài temple outside the sect’s home in Tñy Ninh. Many of the 50,000 believers in the region worship here daily at 5:30am, noon, 5:30pm, and midnight—all under the watchful gaze of the enormous and holy all-seeing eye, located in the orb behind the main altar. The central figures of several major world religions, as well as various ancient scientists, are represented in the temple. It’s worthwhile and acceptable to come at a time when people are praying, as long as you’re quiet. (63 H=i Phòng, parallel to Lˆ Du>n; just head 1 block north. Ask one of the keepers to open the temple doors.)
Tam B=o Pagoda. This pagoda, whose tower holds relics of the Buddha, was constructed from 1954 to 1963 and is now in the middle of renovations; locals come here to worship and occasionally to take afternoon naps. A school stands behind the pagoda. The monks who live here are incredibly friendly, and will sometimes give tours. (323 Phan Chu Trinh. From Hùng V™£ng, head south down Phan Chu Trinh for about 1km, keeping the river on your left side. Open daily 7-11am and 1:30-5pm. Free.)
H· Chí Minh Museum. A more upscale version of the generic H· Chí Minh museum, dedicated to commemorating the life and achievements of Vietnam’s most famous political leader. A small garden surrounds the entire museum. In the way back, behind a small lake, is the exhibition gallery of Uncle Ho’s life. In front of the lake is a replica of the political idol’s childhood home in Làng Kim Liˆn, Vinh province. There’s also a military museum filled with wartime photographs, with planes and tanks in the surrounding garden. Though it features many of the same photos and memorabilia as other H· Chí Minh museums, this one at least has good English captions, is in chronological order, and is pretty extensive. Then again—it’s helpful to know before going that Nguy_n Tat Thánh and Nguy_n Al Quoc are both names for the good Uncle. (☎69 775 0921. 3 Duy Tñn. Open daily 7:30-10:30am and 1:30-4:30pm. 20,000.)
à N{ng’s nightlife options are not designed for the tourist, so if you seek a night out you’ll be rubbing elbows with the locals. The traditional possibilities, karaoke and billiards, can be found everywhere. Across the southern edge of the city, and especially along Lˆ Dinh D™£ng and Båch }ng, there are multitudes of street-side beer gardens packed with young students. These open-air bars are actually just paved lots under corrugated tin ceilings; the atmosphere is created by fluorescent lights and blaring pop music. You are given a case of bottles, then you drink what you want and pay by the number of empties you have left. Even farther south on Båch }ng, about one kilometer past the Chàm Museum, is a group of large, brand-new hot spots; the older, more popular clubs and bars are in the north around the intersection of Hùng V™£ng and Tr<n Phú. The cheapest and most relaxing evening option in à N{ng is a stroll on Båch }ng, recently reconstructed into a grand boulevard. Running along the river, this wide brick walkway is lined with palm trees and French colonial buildings. The river walk meanders from the Chàm Museum in the south to the city shipyards in the north, passing over the modern Song Hàn Bridge about half-way along the walk.
The real draw of à N{ng is its surroundings: within an hour’s ride are a variety of noteworthy locales, including mountaintop resorts, secluded beaches, and caves.
Marble Mountains. The Marble Mountains are named after the five fundamental elements: the popular Water Mountain, the thin Metal Mountain, the subtle Wood mountain, the double-peaked Fire Mountain, and the Earth Mountain. All of the mountains are close together, and most offer delightful views, pleasant pagodas, and hidden caves. The Water Mountain (Ngon Th©y S£n) is the largest, with grand temples, eerie grottoes, and idols hewn from the rock, making it a tourist favorite. Most buses drop tourists off next to the limestone and marble quarries clustering around the mountain’s base. From the entrance closest to the beach, stairs lead past a white Buddha to the towering Linh ©ng Pagoda. The Tàng Chn Cave, hidden behind the pagoda in the back, contains a shrine flanked by three smaller chambers. In the chamber to the far left is a large standing Buddha with a large reclining Buddha behind it. Be careful not to go past the reclining Buddha, as there is a large drop. To the right of this chamber is another small chamber with a Chàm sculpture. The chamber to the far right has holes in the ceiling and, unsurprisingly, a large standing Buddha. In the main chamber there is a square stone platform, on which, according to legend, fairies and gods played checkers. (Why fairies and gods would play checkers is beyond us.)
Once back on the regular path, move on up to the “Simply Stunning Sea View,” Vßng H=i ài, which really isn’t so stunning. For a grander panorama of China Beach from the mountain’s highest accessible point, ascend ÿng Vñn Th®ng (Way to Heaven), a very steep 120m climb up a dirt path, which is on your left 30m past the unmemorable Vñn Th®ng Cave. Back on the path again, the Tam Thái Pagoda sports some beautiful bas-relief carvings and sits in front of the unimpressive Linh Nham Cave. To the pagoda’s right, a stone representation of Quan Âm is carved in Oa Nghiˆm Cave. The Marble Mountains’ most spectacular sight lies behind it: the enormous Huy]n Kh®ng Cave, bathed in a quiet light that pierces through large holes above. Four warrior statues at the cavern’s entrance, dating from Minh Mång’s time, protect it from evil spirits. Out of the cave, past the Tam Thái Pagoda, a path leads past two other small pagodas to Vßng Giang ài, the perfect place to take in the five-mountain view. The Marble Mountains can provide a uniquely spiritual atmosphere if you visit when the place isn’t overrun with tourists; consider visiting by motorbike in the early morning or at sunset. (17km north of Hÿi An and 12km south of à N{ng. Motorbikes and cyclos make the trip from à N{ng for 60,000 round-trip. Most tourist buses stop here for an hour. Open daily 7am-6pm. 30,000. A map with postcards inside costs 10,000. Wear sturdy shoes.)
Monkey Island. Fifteen kilometers from the city, Monkey Island (Bán D=o S£n Trà) is really a fish-shaped peninsula that juts into the ocean. Grand mountains are surrounded by gorgeous crystal-clear waters, and along the perimeter of the island, small beaches allow visitors to lounge in the hot sun. There are several beaches to choose from, all of which have resorts nearby: Ti_n Sa is to the west, and Bãi But, Bãi Nam, and Bãi B c lie on the eastern side of the peninsula. Ti_n Sa and Bãi But are some of the nicest beaches, but all are worth exploring. (From à N{ng, head past the Sÿng Hàn Bridge toward Hÿi An and China Beach, making a left when Ng® Quy[n splits. Continue straight for about 10km until you reach the intersection with L_ Van Thú street, then take a right. Continue straight until a dead end, and take a right onto S®n Trá ien Ngoc Street. Go another 10km until you reach your beach of choice. Ride your own motorbike or hire one for 30,000 each way, 60,000 with pickup.)
China Beach. Along the low-lying stretch of land east of à N{ng and north of the Marble Mountains are kilometers of deserted beach. The southernmost beach is China Beach, famous for being the location of a US Marine landing in 1965—however, it’s unlikely that it actually was. MÅ Khˆ Beach, to the north, slightly more developed but still relatively deserted, is more likely the real landing place. Along the entire waterfront are a few crumbling resorts and stalls selling outstanding fresh seafood. As of now, development has been blessedly minimal, and—though two resorts loom large—the white-sand beaches remain clean and accessible. (20,000. 7km motorbike ride from à N{ng or the Marble Mountains.) Though the beach makes for an easy daytrip, those who choose to stay overnight near the sandy shores can do so easily. Guesthouses line the thin forest near the water, and the beach’s proximity to the Marble Mountains ensures a variety of tourist-oriented restaurants 2 that provide decent meals (soups 7000-15,000; entrees 20,000-60,000). There are also many local food stalls offering c£m dishes. Hoa’s Place 2, 215/14 Huy]n Trñn C®ng Chúa (☎969 978), is a 10m walk from China Beach. The rooms are small but clean and feature private baths. (Singles with fan US$6; doubles with fan US$8, with A/C US$10-15.) A friendly, English-speaking owner prepares spring rolls (20,000) whose sterling reputation is confirmed by all, including visitors just passing through for a bite.
Ba Na Hill Station. West of à N{ng is a world far removed from the coast: the Ba Na mountaintop resort. Founded nearly a century ago by the French, the spectacular villas here fell into disrepair in the latter half of the 20th century. Today, however, the place is being revamped and resold by the government, which hopes to draw in the weary city folk. The view is fantastic—unparalleled in the region—and the weather tends to be much cooler here than in the city. On the way up the mountain, stop at the Tuong Phat Pagoda and take the path up the mountain until you get to one of the largest Buddhas in the country. At the top of the mountain, there are short hiking trails, wild monkeys, the ruins of old French villas, and a rickety cable car with a spectacular view (30,000 round-trip) . You can stay in the newer villas (around US$20) but there’s no reason to stick around for more than a handful of hours after having lunch at one of the restaurants offering panoramic views. (35km northwest of where Hwy. 1 leaves à N{ng. The best way to get here is by motorbike (60,000), because many roads are unmarked. At the foot of the mountain, you must pay an entry fee (10,000) and wait for a special bus (35,000), which leaves when full—it can be a long wait. Offering to pay 20,000 to other visitors with their own cars may be easier. Taxis can also bring you up (US$8-10). Once on top of the mountain, talk to the staff at a resort and they can usually set up a bus down the mountain for US$3 and back to à N{ng for an additional US$2.)
SuI Mo Falls. A series of small cascades around a swift river near Ba Na makes for a pleasant trek and a great way to end your day at Ba Na mountain. The spot is not heavily touristed and the hills around it are covered with forests instead of plantations or roads. (Turn right before the Ba Na entrance gate. Follow the road for 2km and then look for the “Su#i Mo” sign pointing left. It’s a rocky but not overly difficult hike from here for another 10min., but the view is worth it.)
H=i Vñn Pass (“Pass Of The Clouds”) . To move north from à N{ng and the South Central Coast to Hu\ and the North Central Coast, you must first negotiate the H=i Vñn Pass, about 30km north of à N{ng. A finger of the Tr£ng S¤n Mountain range sticks into the South China Sea, forming a very dramatic natural barrier. In the winter, the difference in climate is quite striking: north of the pass it will be cold, wet and pouring rain, while the south side will be clear and warm. The mountain pass, at a height of 500m, is the site of spectacular cloud formations and offers a view of sprawling à N{ng to the south and picture-perfect Lng C® Beach to the north. There are a couple of restaurants in this area catering to travelers. (There are 2 options to get through the pass. Buses take Hwy. 1, which goes over the summit, and many tour buses stop here in the shadow of an old French fort. Alternatively, the train winds around the edge of the mountain just beyond the spray of the breaking surf.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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