Although it traces its trading roots to the Chàm era, Hÿi An (known to Europeans as “Faifo”) gained its reputation as a central port frequented by Chinese, Japanese, and European merchants in the 16th century. As the river began to silt up in the 1800s, the French moved the commercial center of central Vietnam to nearby à N{ng. Today, Hÿi An does a brisk business in the tourist trade. Ancient merchants’ mansions, ornate 18th-century assembly halls, delicious restaurants, local artist galleries, a nearby beach, and a general laid-back charm—and, most notably, over 100 quality, affordable tailoring shops—win over travelers’ hearts. Hÿi An is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as is nearby MÅ Son with its Champa ruins. Every day, especially during the full and new moon festivals each month, Hÿi An works extremely hard for the tourist dollar. Foreigners tend to stay twice as long as they’d planned, and we find it hard to blame them.
Public buses usually drop travelers off on Hwy. 1 on the outskirts of town. Motorcycle taxis will take you the last 6km into the city (20,000). The city’s public bus station is located about 1.5km northwest of the center of town at the intersection of Nh¢ Tr™ng and Lˆ H·ng Phong. Buses leave for à N{ng (1hr.; every hr. 7:30am-4:30pm; 30,000), where you can transfer to a bus to Hu\ or other northern cities. To travel south to Nha Trang and Qu=ng Ngãi, flag down a bus from Hwy. 1. Open-tour buses are available at any hotel and head to: à N{ng (1hr.; 8am; US$3); Hà Nÿi (14hr.; 6am, 8pm; US$12); Hu\ (3hr.; 8am; US$4); Nha Trang (10hr.; 6am, 8pm; US$7-12). All prices are subject to bargaining. Most hotels rent cars with drivers (from US$20 per day), motorbikes (US$5 per day), and bicycles (4000-7000 per day). Taxis and freelance minibuses hang out absolutely everywhere in the city, especially at the intersection of Phan Cháu Trinh and Hoàng Di_u.
Hÿi An is 25km south of à N{ng and 102km north of Qu=ng Ngãi. HuÇnh Thúc Kháng connects Highway 1 to the city. Just before town, the street breaks into three branches. Phan ình Phùng marks the north edge of town, and it eventually becomes Tr<n H™ng åo, home to the post office and Hÿi An Hotel, and ultimately leads to the beach after 5km. The middle branch is Phan Cháu Trinh. The last branch, Nguy[nTh¢ Minh Khai, heads southeast toward the Japanese Covered Bridge and the river. After the bridge it becomes Tr<n Phú, the town’s most sight-packed road. One block south, Båch }ng runs east-west and hugs the Thu Bon River. Though the town is growing to absorb the influx of tourists, Nguy[n Tat Thánh (also called L• Th™ng Ki_t) tends to form the northernmost boundary for visitors. The major north-south streets, from west to east, are Nh¢ Tr™ng (also called Hai Bà Tr™ng), Lˆ Li, Nguy[n Hu_, and Hoàng Di_u, which leads over the C>m Nam Bridge to C>m Nam Island.
Hÿi An will never have a room shortage. Such a large number of hotels has sprouted up in the last few years that it is inconceivable they could ever all fill up; indeed, how this many remain in business is a mystery. The list below is by no means exhaustive. The center of town offers older, more convenient, and more expensive establishments. The northwest corner of town, marked by Lˆ H·ng Phong and Nh¢ Tr™ng, tends to be newer, cheaper, and only a short walk from the town center. You’ll find most backpackers here. All hotels offer different prices for rooms with and without air-conditioning.
Hÿi An has both quantity and quality when it comes to food. The city’s local culinary specialties are famous throughout the country and deserve your individual gastronomic attention. Hÿi An also offers a stunning variety of foreign cuisines to satisfy the whim of every passing visitor: Chinese, French, Indian, and Italian. The listings below are a good start, but every turn, nook, and alley in the city yields a new restaurant or cafe. The cheapest eats radiate out from the market in the center of town. A stroll along the waterfront reveals a string of slightly more expensive seafood restaurants—most have the same menu, and all claim to have the best seafood in town. Prices are lower the closer you move to the market.
Hÿi An has three specialties: white rose (tasty shrimp and frog in a crunchy flour wrapping), fried wontons, and, best of all, cao l*u (a superb thick and flat rice noodle served with sprouts, greens, and crispy fried rice paper in a light soup). Enhanced with mint, anise, and small chilis, cao l*u is both filling and flavorful.
Aside from standard restaurants, Hÿi An also offers two outstanding cafes that are great for shopping breaks or people-watching. Cafe King 1, 10 Phan Cháu Trinh, is located literally in the center of town (coffee 8000). Quán D<n Lang 1 is tourist-free and stares down Hÿi An from the opposite side of the river. To reach it, cross C>m Nam Bridge, take the first right 20m down the road, and walk 150m to the end of the residential street.
Below is a thorough list of sights in the city that have been preserved since the 16th and 17th centuries. Together, these sights give a good indication of what this ancient city looked like as far back as the Middle Ages and how it has changed with the powerful influences of its international trading partners. The city’s assembly houses date back to when Chinese merchants came to Hÿi An and formed congregations (bang) according to their native region. The halls of these houses all follow similar patterns and purposes: four open chambers surround a courtyard, providing an ornate environment for meeting peers, worshipping gods, and honoring ancestors. You probably won’t be able to see all of the sights listed here, but our favorites are the Japanese Covered Bridge, the Old Houses of Phùng H™ng and of T+n Ky, Phúc Ki\n Assembly Hall, the Museum of Revolutionary Fighting, and the Hi An Church and Orphanage. You can purchase a UNESCO entry ticket (75,000) from 6am-5pm at any of Hÿi An’s tourist booths: 81 Nguy[n Hu_ (☎862 715); 5 Hoàng Di_u (☎861 114); 37 Tr<n Phú (☎862 118); 78 Lˆ Li (☎861 982); and 19 Hai Bá Tr™ng (☎861 984). Each ticket provides access to the Japanese Covered Bridge or the C®ng Pagoda, as well as your choice of one old house, one assembly hall, one museum, and one additional sight. Government tour guides (100,000 per 2hr. tour; free for groups over 8) have a sweeping knowledge of local history.
Japanese Covered Bridge. The pink Japanese Covered Bridge, Hÿi An’s most famous symbol, is known locally as Chùa C<u (“Pagoda Bridge”). Japanese traders built it in the early 17th century. The stone piles were meant to be driven into the heart of a monster, whose pesky tail supposedly caused earthquakes in Japan. Walking across the bridge today is free; entering its inner room requires your ticket but offers little to see.
C®ng Pagoda (Chùa Ông) . This pagoda honors Quan C®ng, a general of the Han Dynasty during the 2nd and 3rd centuries. The 350-year-old temple, built in 1653, has the distinction of housing the largest deity statue in Hÿi An. (24 Tr<n Phú, across the street from the market. Opens into the Museum of History and Culture. Open daily 7am-5:30pm. Dress conservatively.)
Handicraft Workshop. “Workshop” is a misnomer—you’ll be lucky to see anyone making handicrafts. However, there’s a wide selection of goods on sale, all presumably made on the premises. In the far back you can see a working loom used for mat weaving. Every day except Monday there are traditional music shows at 10:15am and 3:50pm. If you are not planning on buying anything, use your ticket for a different, more exciting sight. (9 Nguy[n Thái Hßc.)
Old House Of Phùng H™ng. This 180-year-old building is still home to eight people from the family’s 8th generation. The spacious house stands in serene contrast to the busy street scene outside the Japanese Bridge. The two-story house used to hold merchandise, but today they exhibit a collection of arts and crafts. One of the family members may give you a personal tour of the house, pointing out the interesting vestiges of Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese architecture. Check out the trap door and removable windows on the second floor. (4 Nguy[n Th¢ Minh Khai, just west of the bridge. Open daily 8am-6pm.)
Old House Of T+n Ky. The first old house in the city to be certified as a World Heritage Sight, the old house of T+n Ky is now visited by national and international leaders. Visitors can only enter the stunning front chamber, as the 7th-generation family inhabits the back of the house and the second story. There is still plenty to see—the 200-year-old house displays an impressive fusion of Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese architecture. There are Chinese poems written in mother-of-pearl and portraits of each generation’s matriarch and patriarch, beginning with T+n Ky himself. A worthy selection for your ticket, as the owner speaks English and invites visitors to tea. (101 Nguy[n Thái Hßc. Open daily 8am-5:30pm.)
Tr<n Family Chapel. Devoted to ancestor worship, the 200-year-old Tr<n Family Chapel incorporates Chinese, Japanese, and Vietnamese design into its woodwork and beams. The 8th generation of the Tr<n family, who live next door, explain their heritage and serve refreshments to guests. On the family altar rests a group of boxes, each one containing a small personal object from the patriarch and a wooden tablet listing his accomplishments. (21 Lˆ Li, at the corner of Lˆ Li and Phan Cháu Trinh. Open daily 7am-6pm.)
Old House Of Quñn Th+ng. Built by a Chinese captain in the 18th century, this well-preserved house is said to be the oldest in Hÿi An. Quite a bit smaller and emptier than the other old houses, it is nonetheless a window into a world of almost 300 years ago. (77 Tr<n Phú. Open daily 7am-8pm.)
Phúc Ki\N Assembly Hall. This is one of the best choices for your ticket. Hÿi An’s oldest, largest, most colorful, and most complex structure, this hall was first constructed in 1697 by immigrants from China’s Fujian Province. Passing the pink columns of the Red Phoenix Gate, look down to see the symbol for longevity surrounded by five bats of happiness (as if there were any other kind of bat). The first courtyard contains stonework and a statue called “Carp Contemplating a Moon.” Above the inner archway, five bats frame the phrase “The goddess will give her fellow man favor.” This goddess is Thánh M*u, Holy Mother, Protectress of Sailors, and Goddess of the Sea. Just inside the main building, a mural depicts Thánh M*u preparing to rescue a ship from a wipeout-caliber wave. The main altar pays tribute to the congregation’s ancestors; a smaller one to the right honors the God of Prosperity. (46 Tr<n Phú. Open daily 7am-6pm.)
Qu=ng Dong Assembly Hall. This hall served the families of Cantonese merchants, who arrived during the 17th century, built the hall in the 18th century, renovated it in 1885, and added the courtyard’s colorful dragon fountain 20 years ago. A large bas-relief mural at the entrance depicts a red-faced Quan C®ng, a deified military hero from the 3rd century. The main sanctuary houses a three-dimensional image of him with the Goddess of Mercy and the God of Prosperity on either side. To the right side of the main building, a small alley takes you to a contemplative sculpture garden, where fantastical and colorfully tiled creatures twist and turn with impressive complexity. (176 Tr<n Phú. Open daily 6am-6pm.)
Tri]U Chñu Assembly Hall. Intricate wood carvings lure a select handful of visitors to this 150-year-old hall. Inside the sanctuary, a first-century Han emperor sits surrounded by tiny figures carved and painted on wooden panels. Younger than some of the other houses and at the east end of town, this hall sees the fewest visitors. The quiet courtyard provides welcome relief from Hÿi An’s bustling streets, but the interior of the house is less inspiring than that of some of the other old houses. (362 Nguy[n Duy Hi_u, the eastern extension of Tr<n Phú. Open daily 6am-6pm.)
Museum Of Hÿi An Sa Huçnh Culture. This museum displays remnants of the Sa HuÇnh civilization that were first unearthed around Hÿi An in 1993. As with Oc Eco in the south and ®ng S£n in the north, much of the history of this prehistoric, pre-Champa culture remains elusive. Most of the exhibits focus more on the archaeology that unearthed the artifacts than on the culture itself. In any case, the ancient burial jars, holding ashes of the dead, are pretty interesting. Also check out the Museum of Revolutionary Fighting, on the second story of the museum. While very few of the displays have captions in English, it is interesting to see the old artillery and the pictures of revolutionary characters, many of whom were females. (149 Tr<n Phú, opposite the Qu=ng Dong Assembly Hall. Open daily 6:30am-6pm. Free.)
Hÿi An Museum Of History And Culture. This 300-year-old museum, which used to be a Quan Âm Pagoda, provides a decent overview of the city’s history. Today, this one-room museum’s secular displays trace local civilization through the early Sa HuÇnh culture, the Champa Empire, and the åi Vi_t Era. The majority of displays have captions in English. The museum is worth seeing, but it will provide few real answers to your historical questions. (7 Nguy[n Hu_, connected to the C®ng Pagoda. Open daily 7am-6pm. Free.)
Museum Of Trade Ceramics. The front room of this museum introduces visitors to the global maritime network through rather boring displays, including a map of ocean routes, a model of a trading ship, and a 17th-century Japanese painting of Hi An. More engaging exhibits on modern-day architectural preservation efforts, along with a section of Hÿi An’s signature yin and yang roof tiles, await visitors in the back room, though it is unfortunately crowded with distracting pieces of wood and small purses for sale. (80 Tr<n Phú. Open daily 7am-5:30pm. Free.)
Hi An Church And Orphanage. The church services the area’s Catholic population and supports the orphanage next door. While the church is unimpressive, a visit to the orphanage is rewarding. Visitors are more than welcome to stop by and play with the children who live there. While some children will be excited simply to practice their English, it is worthwhile to bring a gift, such as markers or bouncy balls. (See Beyond Tourism. Church located at 4 Nguy[n Tr™ng T®, and orphanage at 2 Nguy[n Tr™ng T®. Mass services: Su 5:30am and 4pm; M, W, F 5:45pm; T, Th, Sa 4:45am. Orphanage visiting hours: daily 8-10am and 2-4pm.)
Long Tuy]N Pagoda. This pagoda, whose name means “dragon’s stream,” is the largest and youngest of Hÿi An’s pagodas. Because it isn’t over 200 years old, it’s not on the tourist radar—but it definitely warrants a visit. Down a dirt path, the brightly colored pagoda towers rise above the surrounding cemetery. On the grounds, there are several unique Buddha statues and altars—the styles and stances vary wildly—as well as living quarters for the monks. At the very back of the compound is the entrance to the cemetery and a statue of a bearded white man that looks, strangely, like a traditional rendering of Jesus. (Head 1km west on Nguyˆn Tat Thánh from its intersection with Hai Bà Tr™ng. The pagoda is down a dirt path on the left—follow the towers. About a 15min. walk from the town center.)
Tr™£ng Family Chapel. A less polished house of ancestral worship, the Tr™£ng Family Chapel was first constructed in 1840 and then rebuilt in 1897. The edifice honors a family that came from Fujian, China, 10 generations ago. The central altar honors the family’s first three generations; the left altar, generations four through six; and the right altar awaits those next in line. The best time to visit is after 5pm when guide Tr™£ng Tri is home. (69/1 Phan Cháu Trinh. Open 7am-7pm.)
H=i Nam Assembly Hall. For a glimpse of amazing woodwork, visit this hall. The congregation came from the island of Hainan near the coast of North Vietnam. In 1851, 108 of their merchant sailors were wrongfully killed by local mandarins, who in turn were executed by the emperor. The assembly hall was built in the sailors’ memory. (10 Tr<n Phú. Open daily 6am-5pm.)
In a region renowned for its tailors and dressmakers, Hÿi An tops all other cities in central Vietnam. Though lower-quality US$20 suits are not difficult to find, a good suit should cost about US$40, and a pair of silk pajamas US$10. All can be made within a day and according to the shopper’s specifications. Shops are concentrated on Lˆ Li, but can be found everywhere in the city. Most have old pattern books and fashion magazines to aid the design process. The cloth market, which houses about 60 cloth stalls, is farther down Tr<n Phú toward Hoàng Di_u at 1 Tr<n Phú. (Open daily 6am-5pm.) While visiting, you will be mobbed by women trying to sell you fabric and make you clothing. To avoid some of the noise, go between noon and 1:30pm when some of the vendors are napping. The cloth market is worth exploring, as the seamstresses can use any fabric in the entire warehouse, and the prices are often cheaper than those of true tailor shops. Inside the market, Mai, stall number 7, produces superb work, and its vendors speak excellent English. But almost every tailoring shop offers great value and quality, and nearly all can be bargained down to the same price. To ascertain quality, talk to the dressmakers (not just the shopkeepers), look at their previous work, and ask other customers’ opinions. The trilingual (English, French, and Vietnamese) seamstress at unassuming Ngßc Hu_, 61 Phan ình Phùng, does excellent work at reasonable prices. Another solid option is Thu Thy, 60 Lˆ Li. Ask to see the exquisite hand-carved wood beams in the showroom in the back.
There is also the vast central market, with everything from fruit to knives to T-shirts, at the intersection of Nguy[n Hu_ and Tr<n Phú. (Open daily 6am-7:30pm.) The southern area of the market is more geared to the locals, while the northern part is for tourists. Be ready to bargain and to turn away the numerous hawkers.
Though Hÿi An makes its name with tailors, its artists and craftspeople should not be overlooked. This remarkable community produces brightly colored oil paintings. Other artists specialize in sculpture and etching—the variety of art is wide, as a stroll down Nguy[n Thái Hßc will reveal. If you show interest in something, it is not unlikely that the artist will invite you for tea and explain the process and meaning behind his or her work. Also be sure to stop by Reaching Out, 103 Nguy[n Thái Hßc, a handicraft shop that sells work made by the town’s disabled population. (☎862 460; www.tbonet.f2s.com. Open daily 8am-5pm.)
Hÿi An is chock-full of tourists, but at heart it remains a quiet riverside town. Nightlife centers around bars, billiards, and cafes. For those bent on liver destruction, rice whiskey and 8000 glasses of draught beer flow in the several bars on the corner of Lˆ Li and Tr<n Phú until 4am most nights; most other bars are hopping until 2am, with Happy hour lasting from 4 until 9pm.
Må S£n. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, the ruins of MÅ S£n were once the major religious center of the ancient Champa Kingdom. These temples reveal the ancient integration of different cultures. The walls, pillars, and pyramid-like temples rising out of the jungle are a blend of Hindu and indigenous culture. The earliest artifacts date from the 4th century, though more permanent temples were not built until the 7th century. From the 7th to the 13th centuries, over 70 towers were built. Today, the ruins are organized into groups A through H. Regrettably, there is little written description of the sights. The path from the entrance leads first to the E and F groups, then to the G group. These groups do not offer much to see and are really just a warm-up for the crown jewel B-C-D group. The C1 kalan (main tower) is the most prominent; the broad, rectangular D1 and D2 were once mandrapart (meditation chambers) for the B and C temples, respectively. Unfortunately, the best sculptures have been moved to à N{ng’s Chàm Museum. US bombs reduced the A1 tower—once a spectacular testament to 10th-century Chàm artistry—to a sad perimeter of stone. Today, A1’s best offering is a small rise which offers a picturesque view of the B-C-D group. Check out the Chàm Museum in à N{ng, too—this helps to imagine the site in its full majesty. Also, try to arrive early to beat the swarms of visitors. Being alone at MÅ S£n will allow you to appreciate the serene grace and beauty of the site. (MÅ S£n is 50km west of Hÿi An. Minibus tours allow 2hr. at the ruins (leave 8am, return by 2pm). You can book the minibus trip at any tourist office or hotel lobby for around US$2-3, usually including a tour guide. Motorbikes US$5-6 round-trip. Open daily 6:30am-4:30pm. To reach the ruins, visitors must take a brief bus ride from the entrance and proceed 300m on foot. 60,000 entry fee. English-speaking guides cost an extra 30,000 (up to 4 people) or 50,000 (5 or more); they’re rarely available on the spot, so try to book them from the tourist offices in Hÿi An.)
Cua Åi Beach. A picturesque beach 5km down Tr<n H™ng åo from Hÿi An, Cua åi warrants at least one lazy afternoon spent with its palm-lined shores and beachfront seafood stalls. A motorcycle taxi ride to the beach should cost no more than 10,000, but it’s an easy and relaxing bicycle ride. If you choose to visit around the month of June, expect tons of local children celebrating the end of the school year. Restaurants on the beach rent out beach chairs with umbrellas for 10,000. Though the beach today is bustling with pineapple and bracelet hawkers, Cua åi was once the departure point for many fleeing refugee “boat people” embarking on the 10-day passage to the Philippines.
Down on Båch }ng, boat tours depart from the dock near the market between 6am and 10pm. Independent operators, mostly local fishermen, charge 30,000 per hour for a trip on the river as the sun rises; Hÿi An Tourist’s Tours are more expensive (around US$8 for a 2hr. cruise) but better planned. Stops are made along the way at three handicraft villages: Ceramics Village (Làng G#m), Carpenter’s Village (Làng Mÿc), and Carpet Village (Làng Chieu). Staying on the beach is not cheap. Victoria Hÿi An 5, 101 Tr<n H™ng åo ( ☎861 740), is the most lavish option, and also one of the priciest (US$100 and up), but it offers a variety of watersports, free shuttle service to and from downtown Hÿi An, and a stunning US$18 buffet dinner every night. The pool is beautiful and overlooks the waves. Vænh H™ng Resort 5 offers slightly more affordable rooms, but sits on the Hoai River instead of the beach, though the beach is nearby. (☎910 577; www.vinhhunghotels.com. Head toward the beach on Tr<n H™ng åo from Hÿi An center. After about 3km, it should be on your right. Rooms US$50-100.)
When it comes to having fun at the beach, look for Rainbow Divers, 98 Lˆ Li, offering speedboat dive trips, snorkeling, and scuba diving. (☎911 123; www.divevietnam.com. $50 per dive. No experience necessary.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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