This low-key seaport town is the capital of Bình ¢nh Province and the less-touristed alternative to the beach parties of Nha Trang. In the 18th century, the Tñy S£n brothers led a great rebellion from here, ending two centuries of division between the North and South. This region, the Tñy S£n district, was also home to two of Vietnam’s greatest poets, Hàn Måc Tu (1912-1940) and Xuñn Di_u (1916-1985). Contemporary Qui Nh£n is a hectic seaport masquerading as a resort destination: the beautiful beach is also the site of a small fishing village and a shipping port. Still, Qui Nh£n has its highlights, such as the fleets of fishing boats that become ethereal points of light in the horizon after the sun sets and the untouched public beaches free of Western tourists.
Any tourist bus originating in Hÿi An or Nha Trang will drop passengers off on Hwy. 1, 10km west of Qui Nh£n. To get to the city center, pick from the smorgasbord of motorized vehicles that hover around the junction (motorbikes and taxis 3000-15,000). The airport is 34km out of town. Vietnam Airlines is the large blue building near the corner of Nguy[n T+t Thành and Nguy[n Thái Hßc. (☎825 313. Open daily 7-11:30am and 1:30-5pm.) Planes fly to HCMC (8:25am; also 3:30pm on M, W, Sa; 515,000) and Hà Nÿi (M, W, Sa 12:30pm; 1,165,000) via à N{ng (365,000). For trains, ignore the cargo transport station and head to Gà Diˆu Trì (☎822 036), 10km outside the city (15,000 by motorbike). Tickets and schedules are available at Gà Qui Nh£n, on L Th™ng Ki_t across from Quang Tr™ng Park. (☎833 255 for reservations; 834 706 for timetables. Open daily 7am-4:30pm.) Northbound trains depart daily at 6:50am and go to à N{ng (6hr.; 87,000-129,000), Hà Nÿi (22hr.; 246,000-484,000), and Hu\ (8hr.; 117,000-172,000). Southbound trains depart daily at 4:45pm and go to HCMC (12hr.; 138,000-282,000) and Nha Trang (4hr.; 69,000-101,000). The bus station, 2km west of Quang Tr™ng Park on Lam Son, runs buses to Bu®n Ma Thuÿt (9hr.; 7am; 43,000); HCMC (15hr.; 6am; 78,000); Hu\ (11hr.; 6am; 48,000) via à N{ng; Nha Trang (6hr.; every 2hr.; 28,000); Pleiku (4hr.; 8am; 20,000). Minibuses arriving in Qui Nh£n may drop passengers off along Tr<n H™ng åo on the north side of the city, rather than at the bus station. In-town taxi service is provided by Davi Taxi (☎812 812), Taxi Dan (☎818 881), and H™£ng Tra Taxi (☎847 777).
Qui Nh£n is on a triangular peninsula 220km north of Nha Trang, 180km south of Qu=ng Ngãi, 150km east of Pleiku, and 10km east of Hwy. 1. Highway 19 runs east into town along its northern edge as Tr<n H™ng åo. It eventually skirts Quang Tr™ng Park, which marks the center of town. From here, Phan Bÿi Chñu runs east past the market, Lˆ H·ng Phong runs southeast toward the beach, and L Th™ng Ki_t curves southwest, connecting to the airstrip-turned-boulevard, Nguy[n T+t Thành. The other end of this street terminates at the beachside boulevard, called Nguy[n Hu_ to the north and An D™ng V™£ng to the south.
The staff at Barbara’s Backpackers (see Accommodations) provides great tourist services; owner Barbara, a Kiwi, knows the local scene in and out. Ch™£ng Tringh Tour Agency, adjacent to Seagull Hotel, provides free maps of the region, and arranges 3-day tours (800,000-900,000) around the province. (☎747 747. Open daily 8am-8pm.) Vietcombank, 152 Lˆ Li, at the intersection with Tr<n H™ng åo, does currency exchange and has an ATM. (☎822 408. Open M-F 7-11am and 1-4pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Agribank, 44 Le Thành T®n, at Phan Bÿi Chñu, cashes traveler’s checks and has a Western Union inside. (☎892 498; www.vbabinhdinh.com.vn. Open daily 7-11:30am and 1:30-4:30pm.) The police can be found at 247 Lˆ H·ng Phong. There are pharmacies across the street from the hospital and at 345 Lˆ H·ng Phong and 264 Phan Bÿi Chñu. The central hospital (☎822 900) is located at 104 Nguy[n Hu_; there is a branch at 255 Tr<n H™ng åo in the city center. Internet access is abundant. Try Binh Dinh, 245 Lˆ H·ng Phong, in the center of town (3000 per hr.; open daily 7am-10pm), or 405A Nguy[n Hu_, at the south end. The General Post Office, 197 Phan Bÿi Chñu, has international phone service and a Vietcombank ATM. (☎821 441. Open daily 6:30am-10pm.)
Qui Nh£n accommodations can be divided into two groups: large, old, and noisy hotels frequented by Vietnamese tourists in the city center, and newer, quieter, beachside accommodations that house foreign tourists. Of the latter, it is best to stay at the southern end of the beach, where the sands are cleaner.
Qui Nh£n brings little to the table besides fresh seafood along the beach and typical rice and soup dishes in the city center. The cheapest eats, as always, are at the food stalls in the beachside fishing village and across from Quang Tr™ng Park and at the brand-spanking-new Qui Nh£n Trade Center. This Western-style supermarket is one of the first in the country and deserves a visit even without a grocery list. Drive along Nguy[n T+t Thánh and you can’t miss it. The city market, with indoor and outdoor stalls, is at 1 Tháng 4 between Phan Bÿi Chñu and Tng Båt H%. At night, the cafes along Nguy[n Hu_ bring out full drink menus and pumping music into the street, creating some semblance of a social scene.
Qui Nh£n is home to few sights besides its deserted beaches, but the museums and religious sights in town make for a relaxing break from all the sun and sand.
Beaches. Qui Nh£n’s biggest draw is its long, curved beach. With heavy fishing going on just offshore, the water isn’t the cleanest along the coast, but the sands remain clean and well-loved by locals and visitors alike. The municipal beach is at the northeast end and is bordered by a wide, palm-shaded promenade, ideal for strolling. Check out the half-submerged US tank just a meter from the beach. The central portion of the shore hosts a fishing village. At the southwest end is Genh Rang Beach, the least-visited portion of sand. Though this beach is deserted during the day, it has a carnival-like atmosphere at night.
Long Khánh Pagoda. A giant white Buddha rises from the province’s primary place of worship. Dating from 1715, this pagoda mirrors Qui Nh£n: generally unremarkable, but holding a few precious gems. Within its walls lies a bell dating from 1805, prayers printed on paper almost 200 years old, and a small memorial to the monk Thích Qu=ng c, who set himself on fire in 1963 in protest of the Di_m regime. (Turn down the dirt road next to 143 Tr<n Cao Vñn. Doors open at 5pm. Free.)
Tháp Ôi Chàm Towers. Although the shape of these towers is slightly unusual—they have pyramid tops instead of the more common, square-terraced ones—their real wonder comes from their location. Situated in the middle of a poor section of Qui Nh£n, the towers have become fully integrated with the surrounding shanty-town, a stark visual metaphor for the fluid, dynamic relationship between past and present that is common throughout Southeast Asia. (Walk along Tr<n H™ng åo away from the city center. You’ll see the towers rising above the rooftops one the right once you hit the 800s. Turn right onto Tháp ®i, then right again after 50m to access the tower grounds. Open 7am-5pm, but often closed for lunch between noon and 2pm. Free.)
Qui Hoa Leper Colony And Queen’S Beach. Strangely, tourists can’t get enough of this leper colony, taking note of its pristine medical facilities and various homages to caretakers and doctors. The seaside colony is a well-maintained village where you’ll see residents farming, making crafts, receiving visitors, or just enjoying the sea air. At the center sprawls a sizable and immaculate hospital. The beach, named for the wife of Vietnam’s last emperor, is shaded by palm trees and situated in a gentle cove. Along the beachfront are a series of busts of medical luminaries from Hippocrates to Pasteur. At the northernmost point of the beach is an interesting monolith, decorated with Christian figures. At the south end of the colony is a large cemetery, with Christian and Buddhist tombs. Stick to the main paved paths: trudging into the smaller alleyways will leave you feeling intrusive. (2km from Qui Nh£n’s southern edge, east of the new seaside road to Song Cau, and 300m from the tomb of Hàn Måc Tu. Open daily 8-11:30am and 1:30-4pm. 3000.)
Shipyards. Just offshore, stretching from Qui Nh£n to Nha Trang, are fleets of brightly colored fishing boats. These electric-blue vessels with red, yellow, and white trim form the core of Vietnam’s fishing industry, and Qui Nh£n is the center for their production. The shipyards are on the northwest end of ong a, where you can see boats at various stages of construction: some being painted, some being sealed, and some with ribs still exposed. Visitors can venture into the actual construction zone, where massive logs are turned into boats by hand under the glaring sun. Each boat takes approximately two months to build. Just past the shipyards is the official Port Authority of Qui Nh£n, full of cargo holds and huge lorries, which is closed to visitors. (Along ong a, past Phan Dinh Ph™£ng. Free.)
Bình Inh Museum. A collection of Chàm sculptures, dioramas of ethnic tribal housing, maps of local ecology, and Communist Party history are just the beginning of this museum. Recently renovated, it has signs in both English and Vietnamese. Check out the well-preserved US war machines in the entrance courtyard. (26 Nguy[n Hu_. Open M-Sa 8am-5pm. Free.)
Tomb Of Hàn Måc Tu. Qhi Nh£n is home to the tomb and shrine of one of Vietnam’s most revered poets. The commemorative house behind the tomb has a bust of the late poet, as well as relics from his past—family pictures, calligraphic scrolls, and anthologies translated into French. Exhibits are in Vietnamese. (5km south of Qui Nh£n, at the base of Hàn Måc Tu Mountain, where Genh Rang beach ends. 5000.)
The countryside around Qui Nh£n is dotted with huge Chàm towers that dwarf even the most visited Chàm site, MÅ S£n . Though these towers are impressive, they differ little from one another. Located down a maze of dirt roads, the towers can be visited via tours organized at the Bình ¢nh Tourist Office, or via motorbike. Inquire at Barbara’s Backpackers (see Accommodations) or call the excellent, English-speaking Mr. Chu Nguy[n V=n (☎091 413 0992), who gives tours for around US$10 per day.
Bánh Ít Chàm Towers. This is the best Chàm site around Qui Nh£n. Bánh Ít, built at the end of the 11th century, is a collection of four towers at the summit of a solitary hill. Interestingly, each tower has been built in a completely different style, although all four are capped with a statue of Shiva. The value for visitors is the pleasant walk up the hill and the commanding view of the coast and the surrounding countryside from the top. (20km north of Qui Nh£n, just east of Hwy. 1. Towers are visible from the road. Open daily 7:30-11am and 1-5pm.)
D™£ng Long Chàm Towers. This trip may be worthwhile only to Chàm tower enthusiasts. These towers, built in the 12th century at the height of the Chàm artistic development, are notable for their beautiful decorative carvings and large size (the largest is 24m tall). On your way to the towers, check out the cashew orchards. (50km northeast of Qui Nh£n, down a long, unmarked dirt road. Follow the tall central tower. Open daily 7:30-11am and 1-5pm.)
Cánh Tiˆn Chàm Tower (Cha Ban) . The unremarkable Cánh Tiˆn tower stands in the center of what used to be Cha Ban, a former Chàm capital. The capital has all but disappeared beneath farmland; only a sprawling cemetery and the tower remain. (26km north of Qui Nh£n, 5km west of Hwy. 1 down an unmarked dirt road. Open daily 7:30-11am and 1-5pm.)
Quang Tr™ng Museum. Forty kilometers northwest of Qui Nh£n, in the middle of the arid countryside, is a museum on the grounds of the Tñy S£n Palace. The palace was home to the three brothers who led the Tñy S£n Rebellion. The museum itself honors the middle son, who crowned himself Emperor Quang Tr™ng in 1771. In 1789, he led his forces to defeat an invading Chinese army near Hà Nÿi—a remarkable battle that’s still celebrated today. Unfortunately, the museum’s exhibits of old clothing and weapons, as well as other artifacts from the Quang Tr™ng court, are uninspiring. All signs are in Vietnamese. The grounds of the museum and palace are serene, though, and you can still see the tamarind tree and the water well that are original to the palace compound. (40km west of Qui Nh£n, about 8km north of Hwy. 19. Open daily 7am-5pm. Free.)
Birthplace Of Xuân Di_u. Bình ¢nh is the birthplace of revered poet Xuñn Di_u. A museum has been set up in the village of Túng Gi=n at the late great’s former home. (Approximately 23km north of Qui Nh£n. Open daily 7:30-11am.)
Hân Ho Cascades. Extremely popular with local Vietnamese, but completely off the foreign tourists’ radar, this is a relaxing place to spend an afternoon. You can amble down the river in a boat (30,000), take on the rapids in a kayak (40,000), or climb along the cascades and surrounding park trails. The scenery is nice and the trails are well maintained, but on the whole this place isn’t too exciting. (60km from Qui Nh£n, down several unmarked dirt roads. Open daily 7am-5pm. 5500.)
H· Núi Mÿt. Surrounded by hills, tranquil H· Núi Mÿt (First Mountain Lake) is a peaceful and romantic spot. Boatmen will ferry a four-seat boat to a waterfall upriver. (30km west of Qui Nh£n, off Hwy. 19; look for a small sign and head south. US$10.)
B=i Bao And B=i Xêp Private Beaches. B=i Bao is a brand-new beach complex. The beach itself is private, and the cleanest around Qui Nh£n; visitors can swim, sunbathe, and generally enjoy the atmosphere. The complex is complete with fountains, footbridges, and even a caged baboon. B=i Xˆp has less sand and more huge stone monoliths. The boulders are fun to scale and provide great vistas of the sea. (10-12km south of Qui Nh£n, on Hwy. 1. 5000.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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