San Juan Daytrips From San Juan

From Pier 2 in Old San Juan, take the AquaExpreso ferry (10min., every 30min. 6am-10pm; $0.50) to Cataño. To get to the Bacardi factory, walk outside, turn right, and walk to the large green parking garage where públicos wait inside ($2 per person for 4 or more people or $6 alone). If driving, take Rte. 165 from San Juan and turn right after the John Deere factory; if you see the huge Bacardi sign, you’ve gone too far.

Rum’s the word on most visitors’ minds as they head across the bay to Cataño, home of the Bacardi Rum Factory. Although Bacardi originated in Cuba and now has factories in Mexico and the Bahamas, the Cataño factory is the world’s largest producer of Bacardi rum and one of the largest companies on the island. All of this combines to make the Bacardi Factory one hot attraction for families, couples, and those looking for a free drink.

Tours, which last 45min., are offered every 15min., alternating between English and Spanish. Upon arrival, visitors receive two free drink tickets. Many sanjuaneros have been known to come for the free drinks and then leave before the tour. However, Bacardi fanatics may find that the tour provides an interesting explanation of the rum-making process and the company’s history. The tour begins with a tram ride to the new Visitors Center, where guests watch an amusing film—suspiciously like a long Bacardi commercial—telling the story of “the king of rums and the rum of kings.” Next, audio tours allow visitors to explore a re-created antique distillery room (ca. 1900) and another room devoted to the Bacardi family. Guests are also given the chance to smell the various Bacardi products at different stages in the fermentation process. Then, visitors are taken to a high-tech room playing hot Bacardi commercials. Here they are allowed to dance and tape 10-second video clips to email home. Finally, another tram passes the working distillery and bottling plant before heading back to the start of the tour and the requisite Bacardi store. (☎788-1500. Open M-Sa 9am-4:30pm, Su 10am-3:45pm. Free.)

Few visitors make it past the Bacardi factory, but Cataño has more to it than rum. Just down the road, Isla de Cabras used to be an island with its own leper colony, but has long since morphed into a grassy peninsula with picnic tables and some superb views of Old San Juan. And unlike the bustling capital, Isla de Cabras is quite peaceful, making it an ideal spot for a picnic. The island also houses El Cañuelo, a Spanish fort built in the 1500s to create crossfire with El Morro. The fort looks like a miniature version of El Morro, and no one is allowed to enter, so there’s not much more than what can be seen through binoculars from atop El Morro. Unfortunately, public transportation to Isla de Cabras is difficult. A taxi from the Bacardi factory costs at least $6 each way, so the island is only worth a visit if you have a car. From Rte. 165, drive past the Bacardi factory, turn right on Rte. 870, and continue to the end. (Open daily 8:30am-5:30pm. $2 per car.)

Cerro Gordo

Take a público out of Río Piedras to Vega Baja ($3), where very occasional públicos traveling to Cerro Gordo from Vega Baja will let you off at the beach ($2). On weekdays, during daylight hours, you may be able to catch a passing público back to Vega Baja from the beach. By car from Hwy. 22, take Exit 31 onto Rte. 690 and go north all the way to the beach. From the west, take Rte. 688 or 689 to Rte. 690, which ends at the beach.

The beaches of San Juan simply cannot compare to those found around the rest of the island. Balneario Cerro Gordo has a lot to offer travelers who are looking for a short, convenient excursion to sublime sands. The Puerto Rican government has invested $3.4 million into remodeling this public beach, creating first-rate facilities in an already first-rate environment. The balneario currently boasts tiny waves of crystal-clear water, a palm-tree-lined beach, and views of the picturesque village of Cerro Gordo. The beach and the town make an ideal daytrip from San Juan. (☎883-2730. Lifeguards, picnic tables, food stands, and public showers. Parking cars $3, vans $4. Open daily 8:30am-6pm.) If you work up an appetite lounging on the beach, try some of the cheapest eats in the area at the various beach kiosks, which serve fried food and ice cream. If you decide to extend your daytrip a little, Cerro Gordo has a nice campground in the woodsy area up the hill on the eastern edge of the beach. Some sites have ocean views, but there is little privacy. Guards control access, but it’s still wise to keep valuables out of sight. Call the beach for reservations, especially from June to August. ($13 per person.)

Piñones

San Juan city bus B40 travels from the Isla Verde bus stop, in front of the Cockfight Arena, along Av. Boca de Cangrejos to the eastern edge of Piñones. By car from Isla Verde, take Rte. 187 through the forest. By far the best way to experience Piñones is by bicycle. Bike path open daily 6am-6pm.

Although physically separated by less than 1 mi., wild and rugged Piñones State Forest and ritzy Isla Verde could not be more different. Where Isla Verde has upscale “authentic” Puerto Rican restaurants, Piñones has stands with open flames frying African-influenced Puerto Rican foods. Isla Verde’s population of wealthy Puerto Ricans and expats contrasts with Piñones’ relatively poor community. Piñones is the locals’ pick for a stroll or bike ride on the beachside promenade, a swim at more remote beaches east of the city center, and a bite to eat or a sunset drink at numerous oceanfront kiosks. Travelers who want to experience a more traditional Puerto Rico but don’t have time to stray far from San Juan should head straight for this area.

Coming from San Juan along Rte. 187 visitors will first pass Boca de Cangrejos, a small peninsula filled with restaurants and food shacks, or “kioskos.” An offshore reef makes this a bad area to swim, but a great place to stop for a snack. Keep going—it’s not until around Km 9 that you will find the nearly deserted beaches with pristine sand and rows of palm trees. Drivers can pull off on any one of the sandy roads leading to the ocean and relax. Piñones is also a popular surfing spot; surf shops in Isla Verde and Ocean Park can point out the best breaks.

Lying on the beach is nice, but the best way to experience Piñones is by riding along the  Paseo Piñones bike path. A combination of paved trails and wooden bridges, the path weaves through the forest, providing incomparable views of the flora, the small communities of houses, and the beach. A fabulous daytrip from San Juan can be spent riding along the path, swimming for an hour or two at a deserted beach, and then stopping for a snack at a food kiosk on the way home. It is possible to rent a bicycle at any shop in the city (see Bike Rental, ), and then ride along the road to the reach the path. To avoid riding down busy streets in the urban section, rent a bike at El Pulpo Loco, located on the water behind Soleil in the second cluster of restaurants, right on the bike path. (☎791-8382. Bikes $5 per hr., $20 per day. Open daily 10am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Farther inland, the forest also encompasses Laguna de Piñones and Laguna la Torrecilla. These two lakes are quite swampy and can emit a powerful smell, but it is possible to kayak on them. To reach the lake, drive to Km 9 and turn right at the sign pointing toward Bosque Estatal de Piñones. Continue all the way down the road to the parking lot and the kayak launch.

Piñones is filled with dozens of kiosks small food shacks. The best and the cheapest option is to grab some fried chicken, an empanada or a batida from one of these vendors ($1-4) and head to the beach. Those looking for more refined dining options can usually find one in each of the restaurant clusters. In addition to renting bikes, El Pulpo Loco (see above) doubles as a clean restaurant with palm-covered picnic tables and tasty Puerto Rican seafood. Specialties include octopus, but the menu also offers less adventurous options such as beef and chicken. (☎791-8382. Entrees $9-17. Open M-Th and Su 10am-11pm, F-Sa 10am-2am. AmEx/MC/V.) The Reef Bar and Grill , in the first inlet of restaurants directly after the bridge coming from San Juan, has the best view in Piñones, with crystal clear water breaking on the reef in the foreground and the San Juan skyline in the distance toward the west. The menu includes seafood entrees as well as chicken and beef. (☎791-1374. Sandwiches and burgers $5-7. Entrees $7-13. Beer $2.75-3. Mixed drinks $4-6. Open M-Th 10am-midnight, F-Sa 10am-3am, Su 10am-3am. Kitchen opens at 11am. MC/V.) Piñones also has an impressive nightlife scene. Many restaurants, including both of the above, double as bars, but the most widely advertised hot spot is Soleil. Located in front of El Pulpo Loco in the second inlet, the two-story restaurant draws the larger crowds from San Juan. One of the most modern-looking bars in the park, it boasts a gorgeous ocean view from the patio (☎253-1033; www.soleilbeachclub.com. House specialty mixed drinks $5.50-6. Appetizers $7-9. Open M-Th and Su 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-1am. AmEx/D/MC/V.)

Loíza

Públicos go from Río Piedras to Loíza (30-75min., M-Sa 5am-3pm, $1.75). From the público terminal in Loíza face the grassy area, turn left, and walk 3 blocks to the plaza. By car, take Rte. 187 east through the Piñones Forest. After you cross the large bridge over Río Grande de Loíza, follow signs into the town center.

The small town of Loíza has a culture that reflects Puerto Rico’s African heritage more than anywhere else on the island, but unfortunately its tourism infrastructure is undeveloped. Nonetheless, all faults disappear during the last week in July, when the town’s annual carnaval festival is celebrated. During the rest of the year, it is a sleepy town with a few small attractions, but local artisans’ studios make Loíza a worthwhile stop on your way to El Yunque and Fajardo. Three miles south of town at Rte. 187 Km 6.6, the Estudio de Arte Samuel Lind is one of the best working art galleries in the San Juan metro area. The studio, gallery, and home of Loíza’s premier artist houses a collection of colorful geometric paintings and big bronze sculptures, both finished and in-progress. Lind’s work of over thirty years is largely inspired by the natural beauty he sees in the people and traditions of Loíza. His media vary from painting to silk screening, sculpture, and some lithography. Small reproductions are sold for as little as $25 and $50, but plastic sculptures go for $100-300 and original paintings and bronze sculptures can run $700-100,000. However, Lind welcomes people who just come to look, as he is eager to teach about the town’s African culture. Drive toward Río Grande and look for the small sign pointing to the studio, then turn left onto the small road; it’s the third house on the left. Or take a público to Río Grande and ask to be let off at the studio. (☎876-1494. Open Tu-Su 9:30am-5:30pm, when Lind is home. AmEx/MC/V.) Across the street, at Rte. 187 Km 6.6, Artesanía Castor Ayala displays vejigante masks crafted by Raúl Ayala, a second-generation Loíza mask artist. The masks ($20-400) are all for sale, from the small, ornamental ones to the head-sized masks used in festivals. (☎886-1654. Open daily 11am-6pm.) Loíza’s only other sight is La Iglesia de San Patricio, the large yellow-orange church on the plaza. Registered as a National Historic Sight, the attractive church is unfortunately closed most of the time. But the plaza itself is a shady and relaxing stop, with a fountain and a large tile mosaic focusing on the town’s African heritage. Yawa’s Café , C. Espíritu Santo 20, on the plaza, is a cafetería-style restaurant, and one of the few places to eat in the town center. Hamburgers ($2), sandwiches ($1.50-3), and breakfast combos ($1-2.50) are the standard fare. (☎886-6084. Open M-F 7am-1pm.)

Caguas

Públicos make the trip from Río Piedras to Caguas (35min., $2.50). From Caguas públicos travel to Cayey (30min., $1.25), Gurabo (20min., $0.70), and Río Piedras (35min., $2.50). If driving, take Hwy. 1 south out of San Juan, then exit onto Hwy. 52 (toll $0.70) and follow the signs to Caguas Centro (30-45min.).

Although few foreign visitors make it to Caguas, the city makes a great daytrip from San Juan. Caguas has opened five small but informative  museums highlighting various aspects of island culture. Although all exhibits are in Spanish, many tour guides speak English and are more than happy to show you around. (All museums open Tu-Sa 8am-4pm. Free). Casa del Trovador, C. Tapia 18 (☎744-8833, ext. 1843), is devoted to Puerto Rico’s traditional island musicians, the trovadores. Found primarily in the central mountains, these musicians sing a popular rhythm called the décima. The museum explains the trovador through photos, musical instruments, and a full costume, while trovador music plays in the background. The special exhibit on female trovadores is particularly interesting. The Museo del Tabaco, C. Betances 87 (☎744-2960), contains artifacts and several display boards about the history of tobacco and its importance in Caguas, a major tobacco producer in the 19th century. Today the city’s tobacco farms are gone, but the art of cigar-making lives on in the second half of the museum, where several elderly cagüeños spend four hours each day making cigars by hand. Many were employed in the tobacco industry in their younger years; working in the museum allows them to preserve their artesanía while earning some extra cash. Visitors can watch them work from behind glass and even buy the finished products afterward (25 cigars $4). At the corner of C. Ruiz Belvis and C. Padial, the Museo de Arte de Caguas (☎744-8833) upholds Puerto Rico’s tradition of impressive art collections with an exhibit of primarily local work. Visitors will recognize the scene in Alejandro de Jesús’s “Jugadores de Dominó” as a familiar sight in any San Juan street. Make sure you don’t miss the huge mural hidden behind the side wall.

Continue down C. Ruiz Belvis to reach the Centro Musical Criollo José Ignacio Quintón (☎744-4110 or 744-4075), at the corner of C. Intendente Ramírez. The bright yellow First Baptist Church of Caguas was converted into a museum in 1995, and it now features displays showing how traditional Puerto Rican instruments are made and the history of various musical styles on the island. The museum becomes more engaging when local groups perform inside; call ahead or ask at the tourist office for more information. Finally, head half a block down C. Intendente Ramírez to Casa Rosada Abelardo Díaz Alfaro, C. Intendente Ramírez 12 (☎286-7640), former home of Carlos Manuel “Charlie” Rodríguez, a native cagüeño who was beatified by the Pope and continues to be Puerto Rico’s highest-ranking Catholic. The first floor is a reconstruction of an early 20th-century home, but the second floor is devoted exclusively to Rodríguez, with an explanation of his life, pictures of his beatification, and a bone held in a reliquary. There is also an altar in the museum that many Puerto Ricans visit to pray for Rodríguez’s intercession. For more information, stop by Oficina de Turismo, on Pl. Palmer next to the Alcaldía. (☎744-8833, ext. 2906. Open M-Sa 8am-noon and 1-4pm.)

While upper-end restaurants are located outside of the city center, budget travelers can find several good, affordable eateries within walking distance. Kam Ying , C. Acosta 22, serves Chinese fast food with a Puerto Rican twist. Everything comes with french fries and most patrons order fried chicken. (☎743-3838. Huge entrees with shrimp, rice, and french fries $4-7. Open daily 10:30am-11pm. MC/V.) Travelers with a sweet tooth should not miss a trip to the popular RexCream , just off the Plaza on C. Ruis Belvis 47, the local kids’ pick for fruity and sweet ice cream. Most flavors are Caribbean fruits, like parcha (passion fruit), but Oreo, pistachio, and peanut butter are also served, among over 25 flavors. (☎746-9222. Ice cream $2. Open daily 9am-10pm.) For Puerto Rican fare, try Marcelo Restaurant at the corner of Av. Mercado and Highway 1. (☎743-8801. Daily house specials $9-16. Open daily 11am-10pm.)

Bayamón

The new Urban Train travels from Hato Rey and Río Piedras to Bayamón ($1.50). If driving from San Juan, take Rte. 2 (J.F.K. Expressway) all the way into Bayamón. When you see the immense City Hall hanging over the center of the road, turn right and park in a garage near the central plaza or in the ample on-street parking.

The dense population and many shopping malls of Bayamón just don’t match up with most tourists’ dreams of tropical paradise. However, one sight that does captivate visitors (mostly Puerto Rican schoolchildren) is the Luis A. Ferré Parque de las Ciencias (Science Park). This educational theme park contains over 10 museums, a trolley, a planetarium, a 500-seat amphitheater, a panoramic elevator, a zoo, a mock town square, and an artificial lake with paddle boats. Though definitely geared toward a pre-adolescent audience, the museums are interesting for visitors of all ages. The Museo de Transportación contains a collection of historical cars, including a 1907 Ford Model N and a Batmobile. The somewhat politically incorrect Museo de Ciencias Naturales commemorates the safaris of Puerto Rican Ventura Barnés and holds about 100 stuffed heads of African animals, from zebras to warthogs. Rifles, stools made from elephant feet, and tables held up by ivory tusks are also on display. The Museo de Reproducciones Artísticas contains reproductions of famous artwork from around the world, as well as some original work by lesser-known artists. The central Anfiteatro Tito Rodríguez frequently has shows that teach children, interestingly, through reggaeton songs. With the largest concentration of museums outside of Old San Juan, Parque de las Ciencias, on Rte. 167, about half a mile from central Bayamón, merits a visit. The highway is a difficult place to walk; instead, drive or take a taxi from in front of the público station. The park is mark by the US spaceships towering over the entrance. (☎740-6878. Open W-F 9am-4pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm. Ticket sales stop 1hr. before closing time. Parking $1. $5, ages 2-12 $3, ages 65-74 $2.50, 75 and over free.)

Although Bayamón is largely residential, the government has restored a historical downtown area and opened three interesting museums near the plaza behind the mayor’s office. The  Museo Francisco Oller has a slightly misleading name, as it only holds five works by Oller, who was born in Bayamón. Nonetheless it houses a respectable collection of artwork by artists and sculptors such as Tomás Batista and Juan Santos. The many sculptures, made of everything from jade to lava rock, are well preserved and depict various subjects including fish and famous Puerto Ricans. Upstairs, the museum crams a substantial body of incredible work by contemporary Puerto Rican artists into a relatively small space. The helpful guides are eager to talk about the art and answer questions. (C. Degetau 15, at C. Maseo. ☎787-0620. Open M-F 8:30am-4pm. Free.) Next door, the Museo Archivo Bayamón is neatly divided into two sections. The first floor details the history of the city and its astounding growth through pictures, city models, and maps. The second floor is devoted to plaques, newspaper clippings, and other memorabilia from Bayamón’s former mayor, Ramón Luis Rivera, who governed the city for 24 years before his son’s election in 2000. Rivera’s suit from his first inauguration sits at his desk, arranged as if he were still working. (C. Degetau 14. ☎780-0673. If the door is locked at either the Museo Archivo or the Museo Oller, go to the other one and ask them to open it. Open M-F 8am-4pm. Free.) The most unique of the museums is undoubtedly the two-story, excessively pink Museo de Muñecas (Doll Museum), C. Degetau 45, which contains an incredible collection of international dolls—including African, Chinese, and Russian nesting varieties—displayed in several fully decorated bedrooms. (☎787-895-1517. Open M-F 8:30am-4pm. Free.)

The rustic wooden sign at Nino’s Café beckons passersby to come enjoy steaming plates of comida criolla. At night, the cafe turns into a hopping bar filled with couches, pool tables, cheap drinks (piña coladas $2.50), and live music. (On Rte. 167. From C. Degetau, walk uphill past the plaza, turn left on C. Dr. Veves, and continue down to Rte. 167. Turn right and walk for 5min. Nino’s is just after the Universidad Metropolitano on the left. ☎740-5324. Criollo lunch combo $5. Entrees $7-17. F salsa classes 6-7pm, $5. Open M-Th 6am-11pm, F-Sa 6am-2am, Su 1pm-10pm.)