Toro Negro marks the high point of the island—literally. The reserve encompasses Cerro Punta (4930 ft.), the highest mountain in Puerto Rico, and some of the most impressive views on the Ruta Panorámica. Most visitors stick to the popular Área Recreativa Doña Juana, which contains several short trails and a public campground. Island-spanning views and solitude reward visitors who make their way to the less developed western half of the forest.
You must drive if you want to visit Reserva Forestal Toro Negro. From San Juan take Hwy. 22 to Barceloneta and then take Rte. 140 south past Florida to Rte. 141. Turn left on Rte. 144 in Jayuya and right on Rte. 149, which will run into Rte. 143. From Ponce, take Hwy. 123 north, exit onto Rte. 143, and drive east.
Almost all sights lie along Route 143, which runs directly through the forest as La Ruta Panorámica. The only other important road, Route 149, overlaps briefly with Rte. 143 just west of the Doña Juana Recreation Area and runs north-south between Manatí and Juana Diaz. Toro Negro is Puerto Rico’s most remote reserve, with only the small towns of Jayuya and Villalba nearby.
There are no hotels around Toro Negro, but several locals along Rte. 149 north of the forest advertise guesthouses, usually only available for weekend use. These are generally rustic two-bedroom cabins with enough room for large families. Most include a kitchen, a bathroom, and several beds, but no sheets or dishes. Visitors will find more options in nearby Jayuya. The most economical and idyllic accommodation in Toro Negro is a campground. The DRNA maintains Los Viveros camping area , Rte. 143 Km 32.5, just east of the office down a short paved road. This large field surrounded by Doña Juana Creek has covered picnic tables, fire pits, trash cans, and bathrooms. Several trails start here. You must get a DRNA permit ($4) in advance .
The best option in Toro Negro is to bring your own food and picnic. Almost all of the rental cabins have kitchens, and Área Recreativa Doña Juana has an attractive picnic area with fire pits and 10 covered tables. There are also a couple of comida criolla options. Despite its name, Las Cabañas de Doña Juana , Rte. 143 Km 30.5, is actually a restaurant specializing in charcoal-grilled meats. The “cabañas” are covered concrete picnic tables that allow patrons to experience the surrounding mountains. (☎867-3981. Everything on the menu under $6. Open Sa-Su and holidays 8am-6pm; summer also open F.) If Las Cabañas is closed, try Terraza y Gasolinera Divisoria , at the intersection of Rte. 143 and Rte. 149. The small comida criolla counter is also stocked with snack food, juice and water. (☎847-1073. Meals under $5. Open daily 7am-8pm. MC/V.)
On the eastern side of the reserve, Doña Juana Waterfall, Rte. 149 Km 41.5, cascades 120 ft. over a rocky cliff just next to the road. This is one of the most accessible waterfalls on the island, and after rainfall it is certainly one of the most impressive.
The western portion of Toro Negro has not been developed for tourism, but that just means you’ll have the best views on the island to yourself. West of the intersection with Rte. 149, Rte. 143 continues ascending until it follows the ridge of Puerto Rico’s tallest peaks. Almost all of the mountains have radio towers and roads leading to the top. Traveling east to west, you first pass Cerro Maravillas (3880 ft.) at the intersection of Rte. 143 and Rte. 577. Although it is by no means the tallest, this peak is well known as the site of one of the most infamous murders in Puerto Rican history (see Terror and Tragedy). Two small white crosses still mark the gravesites. Continue past two more radio-towered mountaintops to reach the road up to Cerro Punta, the tallest mountain in Puerto Rico. The mountain is distinguishable by the gravel area at the base and the incredibly steep paved road winding up the side. Get to the observation platform early (at the top, past both radio towers), before the clouds roll in, and you’ll be rewarded with the best view on the island. While signs at some of the radio stations seem to warn visitors off, the local DRNA rangers say that it is legal to visit the summits, and the workers there are friendly, if a bit surprised to see visitors.
Some of the longer and more popular trails are listed below; for a complete list, visit the DRNA office. These trails are often old unpaved roads, so they are accessible to hikers of most abilities.
Camino El Bolo. (2 mi.) This is the longest trail in Toro Negro, and viewpoints are perfect for a picnic lunch. The trail begins across the street from the Visitors Center; walk through the parking lot and continue on the rocky road leading uphill. After about 15min. you reach a flat grassy path along the ridge of the mountain with great views to the south. When you come to the paved road, turn left to continue along the path. Vereda La Torre crosses this trail and leads uphill to another viewpoint. El Bolo ends farther east on Rte. 143. It is possible to make a circle by coming back along the road, but given the blind turns and narrow roads, it’s easier to return via the same path.
Vereda La Torre. (2 mi.) The trailhead is located at the Área Recreativa Doña Juana; the path leads up to an observation tower with stellar views, and is an easy, shady climb. From the picnic tables, follow the grass path uphill past valleys full of ferns and palm trees. The trail gets slightly rougher as you progress, but the path is always easy to follow. After 20min., the trail comes to what looks like an old service road, which is actually Camino El Bolo. Turn left and walk about five minutes past the short stretch of concrete to reach the second half of La Torre, which leads to the stone observation tower.
Charco La Confesora/Camino Doña Petra. (1 mi.) From Los Viveros, take the paved road below the campsites. When you reach a bridge, turn right and follow the red mud trail through tropical vegetation and rows of orange trees. Eventually Camino Doña Petra leads back to Rte. 143, though it’s quite a walk back along the road, and it would be easier to return by the same way you came.
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