Gotland Overview

Along the shores of Gotland, Sweden’s largest island, families head to beaches in the east before returning to Visby, a town that recalls the Middle Ages with its winding alleyways and historic city wall. Each May, 30 species of orchids come into bloom, transforming the island. Even though summer is busy, visitors can leave the crowds behind to stroll along the island’s cliffs and coast.

Transportation. Destination Gotland ferries (☎771 22 33 00; www.destinationgotland.se) sail from Visby to Nynäshamn and Oskarshamn. (3hr., June-Aug. 2-6 per day, Oct.-May 1-4 per day. 231-519kr, students 177-390kr. Online booking discounts. AmEx/MC/V.) To get to Nynäshamn from Stockholm, take a Flygbussarna bus from Cityterminalen (1hr., 2-4 per day, leaves 1hr. 45min. before ferry departures. 80kr, 110kr on bus) or the Pendeltåg train from Centralstationen (1hr., 90kr, SL passes valid). To get to Oskarshamn from Kalmar, hop on a KLT bus (1hr., every 1-2hr., 73kr). Gotland City, Kungsg. 57A, books ferries from Stockholm. (☎08 406 1500. Open M-F 10am-6pm, phone 8am-7pm, Sa 10am-3pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Pick up a bus timetable at the ferry terminal or at the Visby bus station, Kung Magnusväg 1, outside the wall east of the city. (☎0498 21 41 12; www.gotland.se/kollektivtrafiken. Cash only on buses; AmEx/MC/V at station.) Buses on the island are fairly expensive (39-68kr) and only three or four cover the routes each day, so be sure to plan ahead for daytrips. Cycling is a good way to explore Gotland. Extensive paths and bike-friendly roads can be supplemented by strategic bus rides, as buses will carry bikes for an extra 40kr. Bike rental shops can be found in Visby and in most towns across the island.

Visby. Passing through the medieval Ringmuren (Ring Wall) of Visby (pop. 22,500) is like stepping into another time. The wall encloses the ruins of churches, the most intricate of which, S:ta Karin (or S:ta Katarina), draws visitors with its majestic arches above a grassy floor. (☎0498 29 27 00. Open in summer M-F and Su 8am-9pm, Sa 8am-7pm. Free.) Stairs behind the Domkyrka lead to a scenic terrace. Follow the path along the cliff for a view of the town and sea, then walk left along the northern perimeter of the wall to visit the botanical gardens. Visby attracts thousands in the first week of August for Medieval Week (☎0498 29 10 70; www.medeltidsveckan.se), a festival with theater and dance performances, a jousting tournament, and wandering minstrels strumming lutes. You’ll recognize Visby Fängelse Vandrarhem , Skeppsbron 1, by the barbed wire atop its walls, remnants of the prison that preceded it. (☎0498 20 60 50. Laundry 30kr. Reception in summer 11am-noon and 5pm-9pm; low-season noon-3pm. Dorms 260kr; doubles 320kr; bed in cabin 310kr. AmEx/MC/V.) Bars and cafes line Stora Torget, Adelsgatan, and the harbor. Take advantage of lunch specials (60-90kr), or pick up groceries at ICA on Stora Torg. (Open daily 8am-10pm.) From the ferry terminal, walk left down Färjeleden, then right down Skeppsbron to the tourist office, Skeppsbron 4-6. (☎0498 20 17 00; www.gotland.info. Internet 2kr per min. Open mid-June to mid-Aug. daily 8am-7pm; low-season reduced hours.) Gotlandsresor, Färjeleden 3, near the ferry terminal, books ferries, finds private rooms, and rents bikes. (☎0498 20 12 60; www.gotlandsresor.se. Open daily June-Aug. 6am-10pm; Sept.-May 8am-6pm.) Bike rental shops surround the terminal; prices start at 70kr per day. Wi-Fi is available at the Gotlands Bibliotek (library), Cramerg. 5. (☎0498 29 90 00. Sept.-June free; July-Aug. 20kr per hr. Open Sept.-June M-F 10am-7pm, Sa noon-4pm; July-Aug. M-F 10am-7pm, Sa noon-4pm. Cash only.) Postal Code: 62101.

Elsewhere On Gotland. Use Visby as a launchpad for visiting Tofta beach at the village of Klintehamn (bus #10, 40min.), or the cliffs of Hoburgen, at the island’s southernmost tip (bus #11, 2hr). Bus #20 runs from Visby to Fårösund (1.5hr.), taking passengers to a free 10min. ferry ride to Fårö, a small island off Gotland’s northern tip. Visit Gotlandsresor (see above) for help booking hostels and campgrounds outside of Visby, or you can take advantage of the right of public access and camp by the brackish waters of the Baltic Sea.

Fårö. Filmmaker Ingmar Bergman came to this small island north of Gotland to scout locations and never left. Today, solitude-seekers and admirers of Bergman’s art savor Fårö for its wildflowers, sheep, and calm seashore. The island is also known for raukar, impressive natural pillars and arches in or by the sea. They are the remains of coral reefs, left over from the island’s days near the Equator. To see them, travel along the north-west coast to Digerhuvud and Langhammars. Bike up to Fårö kyrka (church), turn left at the sign for Lauterhorn, and follow subsequent signs. For a sandy beach, turn east to Sudersand. (Bus #20 from Visby. Check the bus schedule.) Ducks squawk near moss-softened rock shelves at the lonely pebbled beach near Fårö kyrka. There are few restaurants on the island. Two cafes are at Broa: one is near the ferry terminal, and the other is close to the church. A main road cuts across the island, and is frequented by cars as well as bikes. Since buses are widely spaced and stick to the main road, bikes are your best bet to zip about the island. (Bus #20 from Visby goes to Fårösund, and at certain times goes up to Skär, at the northern end of Fårö. From Fårösund, take the free 10min. ferry that runs every half hour until midnight. Be sure to rent a bike before boarding the ferry at Fårösund.) The tourist information center is by Fårö kyrka.