Mexico City Shopping

While most Mexican cities rely on one large, central market, Mexico City seems to have one on every corner. Each colonia has its own, and the ones downtown rival the size of a small city. Markets are all relatively cheap, but vary widely in quality and content. Shopping throughout the centro and the Alameda proceeds thematically: there is a wedding dress street, a lighting fixtures street, a lingerie street, a windowpane street, and even a military surplus street.

• Mercado de la Ciudadela, Plaza de la Ciudadela 1 y 5 (☎5510 1828), 2 blocks north of M: Balderas (Lines 1, 3) or 3 blocks south of M: Juárez (Line 3). Nonstop tourist traffic flows through the capital’s biggest and best artesanía market. Traditional clothing at low prices. Open daily 10am-7pm.
• Mercado de Artesanías San Juan, Ayuntamiento (☎5512 2790), at Buen Tono, 4 blocks south of Alameda Central, 2 blocks west of Lázaro Cárdenas. M: Salto de Agua (Lines 1, 8). From the station, walk 4 blocks up López and make a left on Ayuntamiento. 3 floors of artesanía from all over Mexico, ranging from standard tourist items to exquisite handmade treasures. Prices similar to La Ciudadela, but comparison shopping always helps. Fewer tourists, so you have more bargaining power. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 9am-4pm.
• FONART, Patriotismo 691 (☎5563 4060). Also at Juárez 89 (☎5521 0171; open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-4pm) and Reforma 116 (☎5328 5000; open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-4pm). A national project to protect and market traditional crafts, selling artesanía from all over the country. Giant tapestries, rugs, silver jewelry, pottery, and colorful embroidery. Prices are regulated, so are not quite as low as other markets. Open M-F 10am-8pm, Sa 10am-7pm, Su 11am-6pm.
• La Merced, Calle Rosario (☎5522 7249) between Anaya and Cabaña, east of the zócalo. M: Merced (Line 1). The largest market in the Americas has an enormous selection of fresh produce and more raw meat than your nose can handle—all at rock-bottom prices. Not the safest market in town; tourists are advised to exercise extreme caution if they choose to venture inside. Nearby are Mercado de Dulces (Candy Market) and Mercado de Flores (Flower Market). All 3 open daily 10am-7pm.
• Bazar del Sábado, Plaza San Jacinto, in the center of San Ángel. One of San Ángel’s biggest draws. Overflowing onto the plaza, this market tends to be pricey and touristy, but it is one of the few to which contemporary artists bring their work. Open Sa 10am-7pm.
• The Zócalo, along Corregidora, the street between the Palacio Nacional and the Supreme Court. This unofficial “market” crowding Mexico’s central square has been the subject of much controversy through the years. If you don’t mind insanely crowded streets, come here for your non-artesanía needs. Vendors overflow from La Merced and clog the street with stands and their brightly colored umbrellas. The persistent vendors have some of the best prices in town on chocolate-covered strawberries, clothing, toys, CDs, and electronics. Open daily 8am-7pm.
• Mercado de Sonora (☎5768 2701), on Teresa de Mier and Calzada de la Viga, 2 blocks south of La Merced. Attracts those who enjoy witchcraft, medicinal teas and spices, figurines, and ceremonial images, among others. Search no further for lucky cows’ feet, shrunken heads, eagle claws, black salt, and powdered skulls (for the domination of one’s enemies). Also sells more mundane goods, like household wares, toys, and pets—a very sad sight. Beware—this is a prime pickpocketing spot. Open daily 6am-7pm.