Mexico City Sports

Whether consumed by their passion for bullfighting, fútbol (soccer), béisbol (baseball), or horse racing, Mexican fans share an almost religious devotion to sports. Although charrería (rodeo) may be the official national sport of Mexico, fútbol is by far the most popular. Soccer fans rejoice—the summer league runs from January through May, and the winter league runs from July through December. In addition, countless minor and amateur fútbol leagues play throughout the year. Every fourth June, the World Cup takes Mexico by storm—even gas and water delivery stop as soccer fans throughout the country pack bars and restaurants to watch the games. Whenever Mexico scores a goal, the entire nation shakes in unison as the word “GOL!” rings from every bar, boulevard, business, and bus. If sweaty discos and endless museums have you craving a change of pace, follow the sports-loving crowds and prepare yourself for a rowdy good time.

• Estadio Azteca, Calz. de Tlalpan 3665 (☎5487 3100; www.esmas.com/estadioazteca). Take a pesero or tren ligero (trolley bus) from M: Tasqueña (Line 2). The proud home of the Águilas de America (Eagles of America), Mexico’s largest stadium packs in 114,000-person crowds for popular fútbol matches. Good luck getting tickets; start with Ticketmaster (☎5325 9000; www.ticketmaster.com.mx). Season runs Jan.-July and Oct.-Dec. Tickets 50-1500 pesos. If you can’t get tickets but still want to see the stadium, there are guided tours M-W and F-Su (5 per day 10am-5pm) and Th (4, 5pm). 10 pesos, children under 5 free.
• Plaza de Toros México, Rodin 241 (☎5563 3961). M: San Antonio (Line 7) on Insurgentes Sur. Mexico’s principal bullring, the largest in the world, seats 45,000 fans. July-Nov. novillada (novice) fights; Jan.-Feb. and Nov.-Dec. professional fights. Tickets 20-500 pesos, depending on proximity to the ring and sombra (shade) or sol (sun). Bullfights Su 4pm. Next door is the big, blue Estadio Azul, Indiana 260 (☎5563 9040; www.cruz-azul.com.mx). Home to Mexico City’s pro fútbol team, Cruz Azul. Tickets 100-200 pesos.
• El Foro del Sol, Av. Viaducto Río Piedad and Río Churrubusco, in the Ciudad Deportiva, M: Velodromo (Line 9). This “sports city” complex contains volleyball courts, a boxing ring, an ice-skating rink, soccer fields, and other assorted facilities. The Foro, at the complex’s center, hosts home games for Mexico City’s 2 professional baseball teams, the Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) and the Tigres (Tigers). Sparks fly when the teams face each other, and local papers have dubbed the match-up the Guerra Civil (Civil War). Tickets (10-80 pesos) are easy to come by and can be purchased at the gate.
• Hipódromo de las Américas, Av. Industria Militar (☎5387 0600, ext. 6309; www.hipodromo.com.mx). From M: Polanco (line 7) take an “Hipódromo” pesero. This compound houses a horse track. Races F-Su 2:30-7:30pm.