Highways quickly degrade into pothole-ridden stretches of pavement, making speeds in excess of 80km per hr. dangerous. Livestock on the highways and a lack of guardrails make driving at night impossible—if this warning doesn’t convince you, check out the huge number of roadside shrines to the deceased. The intense heat pummels cars, and repair services can be hard to find. Still, a car is the only way to get close to the more scenic and secluded areas of Baja, and the ride is probably one of the most beautiful in Mexico. Drive slowly, never drive at night, and keep your tank full. If you are planning on driving over dirt or sandy roads (there are a lot of them off the highway), you’ll be much more comfortable in an 4WD vehicle. The Ángeles Verdes (Green Angels), who provide roadside assistance, pass along Mex. 1 twice per day. Don’t pass a PEMEX without filling up, as the central section of the highway does not have many gas stations. If you are driving in from the US, obtain a vehicle permit, which is required south of San Felipe on the Sea of Cortés side and south of Ensenada on the Pacific side. If you will be driving in Baja for more than 72hr., show the vehicle’s title and proof of registration for a free permit at the border. For more information on driving in Mexico, see Getting Around: By Car.
Most buses between Ensenada and La Paz are de paso, which means that buses pass through cities, rather than originate or terminate in them. This makes it impossible to reserve seats in advance. You’ll have to leave at inconvenient times, fight to procure a ticket, and possibly stand the whole way. It is much more pleasant to buy a reserved seat in Tijuana, Ensenada, La Paz, or Los Cabos, and traverse the peninsula in one trip. For more information, see Getting Around: By Bus.
Baja has three different ferry routes: Santa Rosalía to Guaymas (10-11hr.), La Paz to Topolobampo/Los Mochis (5hr.), and La Paz to Mazatlán (17hr.). Ferries from La Paz leave from nearby Pichilingue. The La Paz to Topolobampo/Los Mochis route provides direct access to the CHEPE train from Los Mochis through the Copper Canyon. Ferry tickets, especially for the nicer cabins, are expensive and difficult to find. The bottom-of-the-line salón ticket entitles you to a seat in a large room with few communal baths. If you find yourself traveling salón-class at night, ditch your seat and stake out a spot on the floor or outside on the deck. Storage is available, but your belongings will be inaccessible until arrival. Those who plan to take their car aboard should make reservations a month in advance. For further ferry information, contact a local Sematur office.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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