Far from both the D.F. and the border, Durango (pop. 500,000) is norteño to the core, from its unique culture to summertime triple-digit temperatures. Declared a national monument by the government, Durango has diverse architecture ranging from colonial mansions in the centro to makeshift saloons leftover from American Western movie sets towards the outskirts. Despite ample, inexpensive food, museums, and a beautiful countryside, few tourists besides film buffs alight here—possibly because of the menacing scorpion mascot.
The Central de Autobuses is on the eastern outskirts of town. Ómnibus de Mexico (☎818 3361) send buses to: Aguascalientes (7hr., 9 per day, 292 pesos); Chihuahua (8hr., 4 per day, 388 pesos); Ciudad Juárez (18hr., 7 per day, 689 pesos); Guadalajara (10hr., 6 per day, 702 pesos); Mexico City (11hr., 8 per day, 652 pesos); Zacatecas (5hr., every hr., 202 pesos). Estrella Blanca (☎818 3061) goes to: Aguascalientes (7hr., 3 per day, 274 pesos); Parral (6hr., 4 per day, 257 pesos); Torreón (3hr., 7 per day, 182 pesos); Zacatecas (5hr., 4 per day, 202 pesos). Transportes de Durango serves smaller cities in the state. To reach the centro, exit the station and take the Ruta 2 camioneta (4 pesos), which runs from the front of the station, down 5 de Febrero to the Plaza de Armas. City buses don’t run at night; take a taxi (28 pesos).
Most establishments cluster near the Plaza de Armas and the Catedral. The main streets are 5 de Febrero, which runs east-west past the plaza, and 20 de Noviembre, parallel to and one block north of 5 de Febrero. Independencia is the main north-south street. The surrounding countryside is where most of the marijuana in Mexico is grown. If you choose to go exploring on your own, do so during daylight and stay close to major roads, as the hazy off-roads are dangerous.
Durango’s relatively inexpensive hotels are right in the centro. Scorpions can be a reality in some rooms without A/C—shake your shoes before putting them on to avoid the painful sting.
Inexpensive meals are easy to find in Durango. Taco and hot dog stands line 20 de Noviembre at night, and the tuna (prickly-pear cactus fruit) rules during the day. Vendors remove the spines and sell bags of the green, kiwi-shaped fruit (about 5 pesos) off 5 de Febrero. Durango also prides itself on its milk-based sweets and caldillo duranguense, a thick beef stew eaten at most meals.
By far the most hyped-up attraction in Durango is its cinematic history. Over 200 films, including The Wild Bunch (1968), Blueberry (2002), and several John Wayne classics, have been filmed in the dusty desert outskirts of Durango. The city recently opened Museo del Cine, Florida 1106 at Independencia and 20 de Noviembre, commemorating the city’s golden age of Westerns. The old sound-recording equipment, camera, and Victoria 8 projector give insight into how cumbersome earlier productions must have been. Most of the museum seems to be dedicated to John Wayne, although Clint Eastwood makes a few appearances. (Open Tu-Su 9am-6pm. 10 pesos, children 5 pesos.) Some of the original movie sets have been left standing and are now popular tourist attractions. Villa del Oeste, at km 12 on the Carretera Parral, is the only set that allows visitors. It has been converted into a Wild Wild West theme park of sorts, with simulated gunfights and real can-can dancers. Corny fill-in costume photographs are available upon request. (Tourist buses from Plaza de Armas Th-Sa 1, 3pm; Su 1, 2:30, 4:30pm. ☎827 3001. Open Th-Su 10am-6pm. 25 pesos.)
The Spanish colonial architecture and silver barons’ mansions occupy the centro along with pink sandstone buildings and grassy, tree-lined parks. The most resplendent of these is the Catedral Basílica Menor, on the northern edge of the Plaza de Armas. Built between 1691 and 1770, the glowing pink cathedral has frescoes, gilding, and massive pillars. Its bishop once presided over the largest diocese in the world—most of modern Mexico and a large swath of the American southwest. Be sure to check out the haunted confessional at the back of the cathedral, in the east nave to the right of the altar. In 1738, a dying Spanish don tried to gain salvation; according to legend, a beam of light struck him down. Locals have stayed away from the accursed confessional ever since. Durango’s Palacio de Gobierno was once the home of Spanish mining tycoon Juan José Zambrano. After Mexico gained its independence, the government seized the mansion for state use. The inside walls and stairwell are decorated with Benito Juárez’s golden death-mask, and murals depicting the state’s history. (On 5 de Febrero between Martínez and Zaragoza. Open daily 8am-8pm). Just west of the cathedral stands the pink Teatro Ricardo Castro, on 20 de Noviembre, which hosts theatrical productions and screenings, and is considered to be one of the best theaters in northern Mexico. Inquire at the tourist office or theater box office for shows, prices, and schedules.
The Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Ángel Zárraga displays Mexican paintings and sculptures from the past 10 years. Highlights include startling abstract paintings from Dulce María Nuñez Rodríguez and sculptures by Juan Soriano. (Negrete 301. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Free.) The Museo de Arqueología Durango dramatizes Durango’s desert cultures with cinematic tricks and fairly impressive archaeological exhibits. (At Zaragoza 315 Sur. ☎813 1047. Open Tu-F 10am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 11am-6pm. 10 pesos, children 5 pesos.)
Though most farmers are kept busy raising cattle, a select few have chosen scorpion ranches instead. Mercado Gómez Palacio, on 20 Noviembre, three blocks east of the cathedral, is full of the poisonous creatures. Thankfully, most are entombed in transparent plastic bubbles adorning belt buckles, keychains, and fabulously kitschy Durango souvenir clocks. Vendors keep aquariums full of the state arachnid on-site, lending the market a certain edge. Be careful—you never know what you’ll find in your new cowboy boots. (Open daily around 10am-9pm.)
Starting the second week of July, Durango commemorates the city’s founding with the 10-day Feria Nacional. Parades, fireworks, auctions, and carnival rides liven things up. Most of the festivities take place at the Parque Guardiana, quite a distance from the centro—you may have to take a taxi (30 pesos). Buses to the Feria leave from 5 de Febrero and Independencia (4 pesos). Admission to the festival is 15 pesos.
Unfortunately, nightlife in Durango is restricted to weekends, leaving the centro eerily empty on weeknights. The best clubs are located on the outskirts of town; it’s best to ask locals which ones are hottest in season. A variety of courtyard bars featuring live music have sprouted off Negrete behind the cathedral. The patio at Mauna Loa, on the corner of Negrete and Madero, is perfect for relaxing. Live mariachi music and local rocanrol sounds better with 15-peso beer and 22-peso tequila. (Open F-Su 4pm-midnight.) Though slightly more touristy, Country Club, 112 Constitución, is a quiet place to watch a football game with your brew of choice. (☎811 0066. Open 8am-2am. Cash only). Come sundown, get your groove on at La Covacha, Pino Suárez Pte. 500, at Madero, where locals dance to international and Latin hits. (☎812 3969. Cover 30 pesos. Open Th-Su 9pm-4am.) Slightly more upscale is El Alebrije, Serdán 309 Pte. Live romantic music (Th-Sa 9pm-midnight) echoes through the brightly painted courtyard. Learn how the pasito duranguense, a traditional dance step. (Beer 15 pesos. Tequila 30 pesos.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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