After the gold rush of the late 1800s, Greymouth’s timber, coal, and fishing resources facilitated its growth into the largest town on the West Coast. Today Greymouth (pop. 14,000) remains at the heart of extraordinary tramping, caving, and rafting terrain, and marks the western terminus of the TranzAlpine railroad, one of the most breathtaking routes in the world. Those voyaging through Westland should pause here to sample Monteith’s brews and stock up on groceries, cash, and gear.
From the steps of the Greymouth Railway Station, the main drag, Mackay Street, runs left to the town center and right to the Grey River, behind the massive “Great Wall” down Mawhera Quay. Mackay and Guinness Streets bustle with activity. SH6 runs south to Hokitika (40km) and north to Westport (97km); in town SH6 is known as Main South Rd., High St., and Tainui St.
While gourmet food options are limited in Greymouth, budget eats are not. Fresh Choice Supermarket, on Mackay St., behind the train station, is large and inexpensive. (Open daily 7am-9pm.)
Founded to quench the thirsts of gold rushers, Monteith’s Brewing Company, at Herbert and Murray St., produces the best beer on South Island. With only 10 full-time employees, the small brewery produces two to four 12,000-20,000L batches of of beer per week. Their informative 1hr. tour concludes with tastings of their six regular beers plus a seventh seasonal beer. After you’ve decided which one you like best, there’s a 30min. window for visitors to pour their own pints before heading to the Railway Hotel and completing the authentic Greymouth experience. (☎768 4149; www.monteiths.co.nz. Tours daily 11:30am, 2pm, 4pm and 6pm. Book ahead. $12.50, with Railway buffet dinner $20) Barrytown Knifemaking, 2662 SH6 in Barrytown, is a tour that captures the spirit of the central West Coast. You spend the day forging your own knife. Then, with newly sharpened objects and goofy grins, everyone sits around and drinks homemade “White Lightning.” (☎731 1053; www.barrytownknifemaking.com. $95, includes lunch and “White Lightning.” Tu-W and F-Su 9:30am-5:30pm.) Shantytown, 11km south of Greymouth on SH6, is a replica 1880s gold-rush town has its own post office, sawmill, working steam engine, horse and cart rides, and gold mine. The main difference between today’s Shantytown and that of the 1880s is the number of tourists strolling about. (☎762 6634; www.shantytown.co.nz. Open daily 8:30am-5pm. $12, with gold panning $18; children $8.50.) Greymouth Taxis shuttles to Shantytown, as does Kea West Coast Tours, which provides chatty commentary. (☎768 9292 or 0800 532 868. 3hr. Departs daily 10am. $60; includes admission.) In town, the Jade Country, 1 Guinness St., signals tourists’ entry into greenstone territory. The expansive complex holds a shop with expensive wares, cafe, carving studio, and the Jade Trail, which gives a brief historical overview of the significance of jade to Maori, Aztec, Asian, and modern cultures though greener jade pastures await in Hokitika. (☎768 0700. Open in summer daily 8:30am-7pm; in winter 8:30am-5pm.) In the northwest corner of downtown, the History House Museum, on Gresson St., is an intriguing jumble of old rugby photos, diving suits, and shipping memorabilia. (☎768 4028; www.history-house.co.nz. Open M-F 10am-4pm and on weekends during the Christmas holidays. $3, children $1.)
Wild West Adventures, 8 Whall St., operates several adventure activities. Their Dragon’s Cave Rafting explores the Taniwha Caves, including a 30min. rainforest walk, climbing, tubing, and glowworm sightings, followed by a dip in the spa. They can also match you with a whitewater rafting trip on one of eight rivers, ranging from a mild cruise to a heli-raft trip over Class V rapids. For a tamer cruise or paddle down the Arnold River in an outrigger canoe, try Wild West’s Jungle Boat Rafting. (☎768 6649 or 0508 286 877; www.fun-nz.com. Cave rafting $145, with optional abseil entry $210. Full-day rafting trips around $185. Heli-rafting from $95 for a half-day to $575. Jungle cruise $115. Check for last minute discounts at their office on partially full tours.)
For landlubbers, On Yer Bike!, 5min north of Greymouth on SH6, runs 4WD farm bike/ATV tours through the mud and bush on demand. (☎762 7438 or 0800 669 373; www.onyerbike.co.nz. From $75 for 1hr.) Lake Brunner, 37km inland from Greymouth, is a popular daytrip for those with their own transport. A series of walking trails from easy 20min. strolls to moderate 3hr. hikes explore the terrain around the lake. For those who prefer being on the water to walking around it, the fishing at Lake Brunner is excellent. Lake Brunner Fish ’n Trips, 34 Ahau St. (☎738 0144; LBCMotel@xtra.co.nz) rents fishing gear and runs tours.
Nikau palms and the occasional dolphins and seals can be seen along the Point Elizabeth Walkway (3hr. round-trip, tide dependent). Head inland past the rail station and across the bridge, turn left down Bright St., and right along the coast on Domett Esplanade toward the trailhead (2hr. round-trip). The self-guided 1hr. tour of the Brunner Mine Site, just north of town on SH11, past Taylorville, passes through the site of New Zealand’s worst mining disaster. The Woods Creek Track (45min.) has infoboards along with tunnels inhabited by glowworms (bring a flashlight), south of town near Shantytown. The moderately challenging Croesus Track (8hr., 18km one-way) runs from the Smoke-Ho Creek in Blackball to the tavern in Barrytown and can be done as a dayhike, though most people do it in two, stopping at the Ces Clark Hut ($10). While there is bus service from Barrytown, reaching Blackball can be tricky for those without their own transport. Though Let’s Go does not recommend it, hitchhikers report that locals are quick to provide lifts.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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