The heart of the city is the centro histórico around Plaza Tapatía and Plaza de la Liberación. Two major streets—Calzada Independencia (known as “Calzada Independencia Norte” north of Hidalgo, and “Calzada Independencia Sur” south of Morelos) and Morelos (running west from Calzada, where it begins)—divide Guadalajara into quadrants. Note that in addition to Calzada Independencia, Guadalajara has Calle Independencia, crossing the city east-west just north of the centro, and Juárez, which runs east west just south of the plazas and becomes Vallarta west of the university. The surrounding cities of Tlaquepaque to the east, Zapopan to the west, and Tonalá east of Tlaquepaque are all joined seamlessly to the outskirts of Guadalajara. When taking a bus to Guadalajara’s centro histórico, verify with the driver that you’re going to the correct centro, and not one of a neighboring city. The poorer colonias (neighborhoods) of Guadalajara can be dangerous at any time of day; check with the tourist office before blazing new trails. Throughout Guadalajara, travelers should keep to well-lit streets and take taxis after 10pm. Women traveling alone may wish to avoid Calzada Independencia after dark, as the neighborhoods southeast of the Mina-Calzada Independencia intersection are poorly lit and primarily frequented by raucous drunken men and prostitutes. The barrio area, even as close to the centro histórico as the Plaza de los Mariachis, is dangerous despite large crowds of mariachis and bar patrons.
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