Central Pacific Coast of Mexico Food

Guadalajara is a city that revels in its culinary identity. Hundreds of taquerías, scattered in long lines around the city, serve tacos of all sorts for a mere handful of pesos. Almost as common are local specialties like tortas ahogadas (pork rinds stuffed in a soft shell and topped with onions and salsa) and birria (stewed meat, usually pork, in tomato broth thickened with cornmeal and spiced with garlic, onions, and chiles). Estrella beer, brewed clara dorada (golden clear) right in Guadalajara, is perfect for cooling off after all the comida picante. The city caters to everyone; food from faraway places is available, too, at slightly higher prices. Mercado Libertador, at Mina and Calzada Independencia, sells every kind of food imaginable at cheap market prices. A 24hr. supermarket, Gigante, Juárez 573 (☎3613 8638), is located on Juárez and Martinez, near the “Super G” sign.

Tacos and ice cream dominate the menus of most joints in the centro, but with a little energy you can find sit-down spots with broader offerings. Mercado Libertad, on Calz. Independencia Nte., next to the plaza, is a sensory overload—find anything in this market from birria and fried chicken to live animals. (Huge meals around 26 pesos. Open daily 6am-8pm. Cash only.)

• La Chata, 126 Corona (☎3613 0588), off Juárez. The yellow walls decorated with pictures and pottery from Jalisco have complemented La Chata’s exquisite food since 1942, creating the perfect tapatío ambience. The platillo jalisciense (70 pesos) comes with a little bit of everything. Beer and wine 25-45 pesos. Entrees 40-85 pesos. Open daily 8am-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
• La Fonda de San Miguel Arcángel, Guerra 25 (☎3613 0809 or 0793). Standing in a building first completed 1694, la Fonda—once called Santa Teresa de Jesús—is the oldest convent in the city. Golden colonnades, exotic birds, and a fountain make for a relaxed mood. Breakfast specials 50-80 pesos. Mixed drinks 40-70 pesos. Entrees 90-140 pesos. Open M and Su 8:30am-6pm, Tu-Sa 8:30am-midnight. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Tacos Providencia del Centro, Morelos 86 (☎3613 9914), next to the state tourist office. This white-tiled taquería on the corner offers quick service, good food, and even better people-watching. Tacos 5 pesos. Quesadillas 7 pesos. Drinks 8 pesos. Open Tu-Su 10am-7pm. Cash only.
• Restaurant Nuevo Leon, Calz. Independencia Sur 233 (☎3617 2740), between Aldama and Medrano. Wood floors and plush orange chairs are a comfortable setting for watching Chivas games. The specialty is Monterrey-style cabrito al pastor (goat; 135 pesos). Drinks 40-70 pesos. Entrees 100-140 pesos. Open daily 11am-10:30pm.
• Restaurant Villa Madrid, Cotilla 553 (☎3613 4250). Watch as staff convert a wall of fruits into great smoothies and huge licuados (15-25 pesos). Tostadas (40 pesos), burritos (44 pesos), and other hearty dishes are served with plenty of sides. Open daily noon-9pm. Cash only.
• Restaurante Vegetariano, Hidalgo 112 (☎3658 1354), at Humboldt. Creative salads (15-20 pesos) make up for what the ambience lacks. Veggie burgers 19 pesos. Licuados 10 pesos. Open M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 10am-6pm. Cash only.
• Chan, Los Ángeles 131 (☎3619 9446). Metal chairs with green tops and a jukebox give Chan the feel of a 50s diner. Seafood is their specialty. Sopa de mariscos 60 pesos. Entrees 40-60 pesos. Laundry service 50 pesos. Open daily 7am-11pm. Cash only.

Zona Rosa

The places listed below are around the Vallarta and Chapultepec intersection or just west of it (on the “Par Vial” and #321 buses), where a few extra pesos buy excellent food and a bit more elegance. Past Chapultepec, Vallarta both a 24hr. Sanborn’s and VIPs (offering drugstore, coffee shop, and newsstand items) for those seeking a late-night refuge from their hotels.

• Santo Coyote, Lerdo de Tejada 2379 (☎3343 2265 or 2266). A Hawaiian luau with all the stars of the Mexican culinary canon. Waiters serve tropical dishes like cactus-and-cilantro-infused filete “el patrón” (147 pesos) or crema hacienda de cortez (pumpkin flower, grilled chile, and maize soup; 55 pesos). Open daily 1pm-1am. AmEx.
• La Gorda, Niños Héroes 2810 (☎3121 2126), by Los Arcos. Though slightly geared toward tourists, La Gorda cooks up large portions for the right price. Another location at Juan Álvarez 1336 (☎3825 2239). Full meals under 50 pesos. Open M-Sa 1:30pm-midnight, Su 1-11pm. MC/V.