Central Pacific Coast of Mexico Sights

Guadalajara preserves its deep cultural and historical heritage while embracing the bustle and flow of modern city life in its plazas and markets. The city’s many shopping malls spill over into wide public spaces, packed with mariachis, tourists, vendors, and street performers. That said, many of the city’s finer sights are in its scattered parks and suburbs: Zapopan’s cathedral , Tonalá’s market , Tequila’s blue agave , and the picturesque towns around Lake Chapala. The tourist office offers a free comprehensive pamphlet called Puntos de Interés, complete with maps, sites, and suggested walks.

Plaza De La Liberación. Guadalajara’s cultural wealth is concentrated amid tapatía activity in this central plaza. Horse-drawn calandrias line up near the Museo Regional, waiting to cart you around the city (50-60min., 200 pesos). Surrounded by the cathedral, Museo Regional, Palacio de Gobierno, and Teatro Degollado, this spacious plaza at the corner of Corona and Hidalgo has a bubbling fountain and a large Mexican flag. Military personnel ceremonially retire the colors daily at 7pm. An enormous sculpture on the northern side of the plaza depicts Hidalgo breaking the chains of servitude above a plaque with his 1810 decree abolishing the slave trade.

Palacio De Gobierno. The palace, built in 1774, served as the headquarters of renegade governments under Hidalgo from 1810 to 1811 and under Juárez in 1858. A stairwell features one of José Clemente Orozco’s most brilliant and shocking frescos, depicting Father Hidalgo brandishing a fiery sword against the forces of the military parties and a corrupted Church. Nearby is the room where Hidalgo signed his famous decree. (Corona 31. Palacio’s General Director ☎3668 1808. Open daily 9am-8pm. Tours available in English.)

Catedral Metropolitana. Facing Teatro Degollado across Plaza de la Liberación, this Neoclassical church—the most visible symbol of the city—was begun in 1568 and completed 57 years later. After an 1818 earthquake destroyed its original towers, ambitious architects replaced them with much taller ones. Fernando VII of Spain donated the cathedral’s 11 richly ornamented altars in appreciation of Guadalajara’s aid during the Napoleonic Wars. Beautiful white stone interior arches support soaring naves, and the largest organ in Mexico, imported from France, stands at the back. Take the steps on the right-hand side to descend beneath the altar, where the tombs of three cardinals and two bishops lie. (Between Hidalgo and Morelos. Open daily 8am-8pm. Masses still take place—plan accordingly.)

Instituto Cultural Cabañas. Just past the spiraling fountains of the Plaza Tapatía lies the flat stone edifice and its gorgeous chapel rotunda. Also known as the Hospicio Cabañas, this building was constructed in 1801 to house an orphanage. It served as an art school and a military barracks before its present status as an exhibition, performance, and office space; the last orphans were transferred elsewhere in 1980. Orozco murals decorate the building’s chapel, and the Institute houses the world’s foremost collection of Orozco art. The striking El Hombre de Fuego (The Man of Fire)—a dramatic reversal of heaven and hell that tops off Orozco’s disturbing portrait of Mexican history—peers down from the dome. (Calle Hospicio #8, Hospicio and Cabañas, 3 blocks east of Independencia. Open Tu-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-3pm. 10 pesos, students 5 pesos, children 6-12 2.50 pesos; Su free. 10 pesos for camera use—no flash.)

Museo De Las Artes Populares. North of the centro, this contemporary museum houses offbeat “popular art” (not to be confused with pop art) artifacts. The permanent exhibits upstairs showcase chess sets, daggers, guitars, and photography, while mixed media pieces with tequila bottles, figurines, and a papier- mâché dragon are displayed downstairs. The cultural relics are well kept, and the warehouse is often empty, ensuring a crowd-free experience. (San Felipe 211. ☎3614 3891. Open Tu-Sa, 10am-6pm and Su 10am-4pm. Free.)

Museo Regional De Guadalajara. The old San José seminary chronicles the history of western Mexico starting with the Big Bang and also displays works of art. Skip the paintings in favor of the enormous, complete skeleton of a prehistoric elephant and indigenous handicrafts. (Liceo 60 at Hidalgo, on the northern side of Plaza de la Liberación. ☎3614 9957. Open Tu-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-4:30pm. 37 pesos, children under 12 and seniors free; Su free.)

Teatro Degollado. Attend the Guadalajara Philharmonic for a good look at the breathtaking Teatro Degollado, named for former governor Santos Degollado. Built in 1856, the Neoclassical structure can seat hundreds beneath its gilded arches, sculpted allegories of the seven muses, and Gerardo Suárez’s interpretation of Dante’s Divine Comedy on the ceiling. In addition to the Philharmonic, the theater seasonally hosts amateur acts. Every Sunday the Universidad de Guadalajara performs ballet folklórico. (On the eastern end of Plaza de la Liberación. Office ☎3613 1115. Open to visitors daily noon-2pm. Guadalajara Philharmonic performs F at 8:30pm and Su at 12:30pm. Tickets available at the theater box office. ☎3614 4773. Open daily 10am-8pm. Tickets from 50 pesos.)

Templo De San Agustin. This unassuming church, built in 1573, stands off a corner of the Plaza de la Liberación. Built with a combination of Baroque and Neo-classical styles, it has no nave or dome, just a few altars and two sculptures of Saint Augustine and his mother. The church was once a convent, and its abutting cloister now houses the University of Guadalajara’s music school. Pass quietly through the arch to enjoy the peaceful courtyard and music. (Located at the corner of Morelos and Degollado. ☎3614 5365. Regularly scheduled mass. Open daily 6am-9pm.)

Plaza De Los Mariachis. Immediately after you sit down in this crowded plaza full of jewelry stands, roving mariachis will pounce. Most will expect a donation after their song, even if you didn’t ask for the performance. Full during the day, the plaza overflows at night as hundreds of mariachis spill over nearby streets. Beware: in early evening the plaza fills with roving unsavories, who have been known to mug unsuspecting passersby. (On the southern side of San Juan de Dios, the church with the blue neon cross on Independencia at Mina. Songs 20-35 pesos.)

Outside The Centro

Parque Agua Azul. Hidden to the south of the old bus station, this 168,000 sq. m park features tropical aviaries, an orchid greenhouse, and a butterfly garden. Couples relax in the grass as children play soccer on the park’s scattered greens. (South of the centro on Calz. Independencia. Take bus #60 or 62 south. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. 4 pesos, children 2 pesos.)

El Ex-Convento De Carmen. A venue for exhibits and film showings, the ex-convent holds an immense collection of contemporary pieces by local artists. The galleries are full of lurid, gorgeous paintings and other modern installations by talented Jalisco artists. The building is also home to the Center for Audiovisual Studies and screens international film classics. (Juárez 630, one block east of Federalismo. ☎3587 7825. Open Tu-Sa, 10am-8:30pm and Su 10am-8pm. Movies run every day at 4, 6, and 8pm. Donations accepted.)

North Of The Centro

To reach the following sights, take Ruta #60 or 62 north on Calz. Independencia.

Zoológico Guadalajara. A nice break from the grime and bustle of the centro, the zoo holds over 300 species from around the world. Other highlights include a kangaroo farm and an aquarium. The far end of the zoo affords a grand view of the 200 mi long Barranca de Huentitán ravine. (Continue north on Calzada Independencia past Plaza de Toros and walk 1.5km from the bus stop on Independencia to the entrance of the zoo. ☎3674 1034. Open in summer daily 10am-6pm; in low season W-Su 10am-6pm. 45 pesos, children 25 pesos. Call ahead 3-5 days to schedule swimming with dolphins. ☎3674 0138. Prices vary.)

Centro De Ciencia Y Tecnología. The center houses a planetarium, as well as exhibits on stars, rocks, and the history of communication. Check out the topiary garden. (A 20min. walk south from the zoo. Open daily 9am-6pm. ☎3674 4106. Museum and planetarium 12 pesos, children 6 pesos.)