Central Pacific Coast of Mexico Entertainment

Guadalajara ardently keeps in touch with its cultural side, and the government actively promotes artistic and musical endeavors. To keep abreast of all the happenings, from avant-garde film festivals to bullfights, check the listings in The Guadalajara Weekly and La Gaceta, the University’s weekly newspaper. Information is also available in the kiosks and bulletin boards in places like Instituto Cultural Cabañas. Be prepared to take a taxi—buses stop running at 10pm.

The  Ballet Folklórico performs stunning intricate dances from regions throughout Mexico. The University of Guadalajara troupe, reputedly the best, performs in Teatro Degollado. Tickets are available on the day of performance and one day in advance. (} 3614 4773 . Performances Su noon. Box office open daily 10am-8pm. Tickets 80-300 pesos.) Ballet Folklórico de Cabañas, the Jalisco state troupe, performs in the Instituto Cultural Cabañas, three blocks east of Calzada Independencia. (Performances W 8:30pm. Tickets 60 pesos.)

For a dose of theater, there’s the Teatro Experimental, which despite its name performs major mainstream works as well. The theater, recognizable by the large obelisk in front of it, is nestled in a corner of the Parque Agua Azul along Calzada Independencia Sur. Shows run for several days. Check La Gaceta and other papers for what’s showing. (Tickets available at ☎3818 3800 or 1-2hr. before the show at the box office. Tickets 80-120 pesos, students -price.)

Finding a bench in the Plaza de Armas, across from the Palacio de Gobierno, can be a tricky task, as the Jalisco State Band’s public performances draw large crowds. (Performances Th and Su 6:30pm; seat-seekers should arrive before 6pm. Free.) Plaza de los Fundadores, behind Teatro Degollado, serves as a stage every afternoon and evening for clown mimes. Watch and give tips, but unless you like being the butt of jokes, keep out of the mime’s view. Every October, Guadalajara explodes with the Fiestas de Octubre, a surreal, month-long bacchanalia of parades, dancing, bullfights, fireworks, food, and fun. Each day of the month is dedicated to a different state or territory in Mexico. Information and a schedule of events can be found at the tourist office at Morelos 102 (☎3668 1600).

University facilities, scattered throughout the city, provide high culture for low budgets. The Departamento de Bellas Artes, García 720, coordinates activities at many venues throughout the city. A blackboard in the lobby lists each day’s attractions. (Open M-Sa 9am-5pm. Price depends on event.)

Cinema

Cinepolis at the Centro Magno, shows current Hollywood films dubbed in Spanish. ( } 3630 3940. Tickets 50 pesos, matinees 40 pesos, W 32 pesos. AmEx/MC/V). International films and classics show daily at the Ex-Convento del Carmen . (☎3587 7825. Movies run every day at 4, 6, and 8pm. Donations accepted.)Guadalajara has dozens of cinemas (about 30 pesos); check newspapers for listings.

Sports

Bullfights take place most Sundays (Oct.-Mar.) at either 4 or 5:30pm at Plaza de Toros, on Nuevo Progreso at the northern end of Independencia. (Take Ruta #60 or 62 buses north. ☎3651 8506. Tickets 70-520 pesos. Open M-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-6pm.)  Lucha libre, or wrestling, is a crowd favorite. Local wrestlers take on opponents who are subjected to the audience’s filthiest possible abuse and return it in kind. Acrobatics and drama are fundamental, and fights sometimes make it out ring into the seats—be prepared to clear out. (Arena Coliseo, Medrano 67 off Calz. Independencia. ☎3617 3401. Matches Su 5:45pm and Tu 8:15pm. Prices 70-110 pesos per match, about 5-6 fights.) Fútbol is enormous in Guadalajara, and the Chivas, the local professional team, are perennial contenders for the national championship. Matches take place September through May in Jalisco Stadium on Calzada Independencia Nte. in front of Plaza de Toros. (☎3637 0563. Open daily 8am-4pm. Tickets 5-200 pesos.)