Catch a local #275 bus northbound on 16 de Septiembre (40min., 4.50 pesos). Ask the driver when to get off, or get off when you see the massive arch. Last bus back 10pm.
A soaring 20m arch next to the bus route is the first indication that Zapopan is an unusual suburb. The arch and its sculptures stand over the entrance of the beautiful Paseo Teopitzintli, a shady walk that leads to the stunning Basílica de la Virgen de Zapopan, at Hidalgo and Matamoros Nicolás Bravo, erected around the turn of the 18th century after a local peasant’s vision of the Virgin. The altar holds Our Lady of Zapopan, a small cornstalk figure made by indígenas in the 16th century and still venerated by locals. Her healing powers are commemorated by decades worth of ex votos, small paintings on sheet metal offering a visual testimony of the cured. During the early fall, the figure of Our Lady of Zapopan frequently moves from church to church throughout Jalisco—each move is occasion for a festive parade in honor of the saint. One of the most hallowed transfers occurs on Día de la Raza (Oct. 12), when the figure makes her way from Guadalajara’s Cathedral back to Zapopan’s church in a large procession. The late Pope John Paul II visited the basilica in 1979, and a statue of the pontiff holding hands with a beaming village boy now stands in the courtyard in front of the church. The Sala de Arte Huichol, on one side of the cathedral, offers a comprehensive display of indigenous culture, including a replica of a Huichol home. (Open M-Sa 9am-1:30pm and 3-6pm, Su 10am-2pm. 5 pesos.) The basilica faces the Plaza de las Américas, which stands at the end of the Paseo. Along the Paseo is the Museo de Arte de Zapopan, local art in a sleek, modern building. (☎3818 2515. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. 24 pesos.) Surrounding it are plenty of small shops and places to grab roasted chicken or a cheap taco.
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