Central Pacific Coast of Mexico Chapala

Chapala (pop. 20,000), founded by Tecuexe Indian Chief Capalac in 1510, is the first stop along the road from Guadalajara. It was here that D. H. Lawrence began writing The Plumed Serpent during the 1920s. The town now doubles as both a busy gateway to the lake’s pueblitos and larger cities and as a quiet town, with the occasional burro clacking down the unpaved streets. Although the North Shore tends to be expensive, Chapala hosts the area’s most affordable accommodations and is a great place to experience the lake and the mountains without too much of a tourist veneer.

Transportation. To get to Chapala from Guadalajara, take a “Guadalajara-Chapala” bus (45min., every 30min. 5:30am-9:30pm, 35 pesos) from the old station. The new bus station also serves Chapala (1hr., every hr. 7:45am-5:45pm, 24 pesos). From Ajijic, take any bus (20min., every 20min., 7 pesos). In Chapala, the entrance of the bus station is on Madero at Martínez. Turn left on Madero as you exit the station to reach the lake. “Guadalajara-Chapala” buses back to Guadalajara leave the station on roughly the same schedule as they arrive.

Practical Information. The lake forms the town’s southern and eastern boundaries. Hidalgo (called Morelos east of Madero) runs west to Ajijic from two blocks north of the lake. Corona runs along the southern waterfront. Madero is the main road, and runs north-south. The tourist office, Madero 407, is opposite the Palacio Municipal. (☎765 3141. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 9am-1pm.) Banamex, Madero 222, has an ATM (☎765 2271 or 2272; open M-F 9am-4pm), as does Bancomer, Madero 212. The mercado de artesanías, on the waterfront, extends four blocks east of Madero’s end, on Corona. Other services include: police, Madero 413 (☎765 4444); Red Cross, on Av. Gallo adjacent to Cristania park on the malecón (☎765 2308, emergencies 065); Farmacia Morelos, Madero 435A (☎765 4002); and the post office, Degollado 323, near Guerrero (☎765 6809; open M-F 8am-3pm). Postal Code: 45900.

Accommodations And Food. An outstanding lodging choice three blocks from the shores of Lake Chapala is Hotel Cardilejas 3, Cotilla 363, a rambling, colorful building on a hill with all the ambience of an Italian villa. Small, well-kept rooms with lace bedspreads have been known to lure the accidental tourist into month-long stays. Conveniently located one block off Madero near the bus station (look for the red-and-white sign), the hotel furnishes a great view of the lake and Chapala’s charming rooftops. (☎765 2279. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 250 pesos; triples 290 pesos.) Las Palmitas 4, Juárez 531, is across the street and two blocks away from the food market. A long, open white-tile courtyard leads to rooms with large beds. (☎765 3070. Singles 220 pesos; doubles 310 pesos; triples 415 pesos.) Hotel Villa Samary 4, Juárez Morelos 199, offers massive rooms just a block away from the malecón. (☎765 3960. Singles 215 pesos; doubles 300 pesos.)

For a town its size, Chapala boasts plenty of dining options. The many coffee and pastry shops have relaxed outdoor seating, giving the town a summery, European feel. There are also plenty of taco stands along Madero that offer tasty and filling food on the go. La Leña , Madero 236C, serves a range of seafood and carne amid old vinyl and paper snowflakes hanging from the ceiling. Try the tostadas de marlin (20 pesos) or one of the meat dishes (50-80 pesos). (☎765 2654. Open daily noon-midnight. Cash only.) For something lighter, try Coffee Break 2, Madero 415. Order a coffee (15 pesos) or an Italian soda (22 pesos) and take advantage of the Wi-Fi access. (☎765 5931. Open M-Sa 8am-10:30pm. MC/V.) For a quick bite, try Piccirilos Pizzeria 2, near the statue of Los Ausentes at the back of the plaza. In between slices (16 pesos), check out the arcade in back. (☎765 7777. Open daily 10am-10pm. Cash only.)

Sights And Entertainment. While brave weekenders may occasionally rev up their jetskis and tear through the calm waters of the lake, pollution and a receding shoreline prevent most watersports. Most prefer to satisfy their lake-side craving by leisurely drifting through the water on small boats. Many local boat owners can be found on the pier at the end of Madero offering to take tourists out to the two islands, Isla de los Alacranes and Riberas, where there are a couple of restaurants. (Piloted boats to Isla de los Alacranes 280 pesos per 30min., 350 pesos per hr.) Despite the grime, the lake remains picturesque. For the best view of Chapala, the lake, and the surrounding hills, walk up López Cotilla and turn left down the small alley. Climb up the stone stairway and continue up the roughly hewn stairs in the hillside for 15-20min., until you get to the cross.

Nightlife. After sunset, people head to Corona and Madero near the malecón for nighttime frolics. One popular place is Ever’s, Corona 6, where a young crowd sits out on the patio with drink of choice in hand. (Beer 10-15 pesos. Open M-Th 4pm-midnight, F-Sa 4pm-2am. Cash only.) Just down the street is Jony’s Place, Corona 2, with a jukebox and pool table in the back. (☎765 3182. Beer 15 pesos. Sangria 35 pesos. Margaritas 40 pesos. Open Su-Th 9am-midnight, F-Sa 9am-2am. Cash only.) El Gavilan, at the corner of Cotilla and 5 de Mayo, is full of locals singing loud mariachi songs. (☎765 2352. Beer 15 pesos. Tequila 30 pesos. Open daily 9pm-1am. Cash only.)