Central Pacific Coast of Mexico Ajijic

Ajijic’s (pop. 18,000) perfect weather and idyllic setting could not stay secret forever, and today the town supports a thriving expatriate community and tourism industry. Nevertheless, the city’s cobblestone streets and well-tended gardens of Ajijic retain the charm of old Mexico. The town’s renowned beauty has always drawn crowds of artists and writers; their efforts fill the cobblestone streets and lakeside galleries. The town’s modern amenities and natural pueblito ambience merit the hype and a visit from even the most tourist-wary traveler.

Transportation And Practical Information. From the old bus station in Guadalajara, take a “Guadalajara-Chapala” bus (1hr., every 30min. 5:30am-9:30pm, 35 pesos), which, after stopping in Chapala, will continue along the lake to Ajijic and destinations beyond. From Chapala, take a bus to Ajijic via San Antonio from the bus station on Madero and Martínez (20min., every 15min. 6am-8pm, 7 pesos), or catch it at various bus stops along Madero. Buses back to Chapala or Guadalajara can be caught along Chapala, the same route by which the bus arrived (1hr., every 30min. 6am-8pm, 35 pesos).

If you’re lost, locals are often willing to point you in the right direction. The only paved street in Ajijic is Carretera Chapala, which divides the town into north and south. West of Colón it is called Poniente, and to the east Oriente. To reach the plaza, turn left at the traffic light onto Colón. Tourist information can be found at the Lake Chapala Society’s outpost in a former silkworm nursery at 16 de Septiembre 16. (☎766 1140. Open M-Sa 10am-2pm.) Bancomer, Parroquia 2 on the plaza, has a 24hr. ATM. Other services include: Lavandería, just off the plaza at Colón 24A (wash and dry 40 pesos; open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-3:30pm); police, Colón 23 on the plaza (☎766 1760) and Red Cross (☎765 2308 or 2553) in Chapala, both reachable in an emergency by dialing ☎080; Hospital Ajijic, Carretera Chapala 33 (☎766 0662); Farmacia Jessica, Parroquia 18 on the plaza (☎766 1191; open daily 9am-2pm, 5-9pm); Copy-Top, Guadalupe Victoria 2, on the Plaza (☎766 4464; Internet 20 pesos per hr.; open daily 10am-9pm) or CiberTec PC, Chapala Pte. 9B (10 pesos per hr.; open M-F 10am-6pm); and the post office, Chapala Pte. 7A (☎766 1888; open M-F 8am-3pm, Sa 9am-1pm). Postal Code: 45920.

Accommodations And Food. Ajijic has no budget hotels, but the extra pesos bring appropriate luxuries. Keep in mind that Chapala, where rooms are cheaper, is a short bus ride away. Las Casitas 5, Carretera Pte. 20, is one of the best hotel options, with red tile floors, fans, cable TV, private baths, a kitchen, and a cozy living room with chimney. (☎766 1145. 2-bed bungalows 395 pesos. Cash only.) Rooms at Hotel Italo 5, Guadalupe Victoria 8, two blocks east of the plaza, are white-tiled with refrigerator, TV, and capacious beds. The hotel provides a laundry service, sauna, and hot tub. (☎766 2221. Singles 300 pesos; doubles 400 pesos; triples 490 pesos. MC/V.) Posada las Calandrías 5, Carretera Chapala 8, has a flower-filled garden, barbecue space, and a great view of the laguna from the terraces. (☎766 1052. Small bungalows with 2 beds, a kitchenette, and refrigerator start at 400 pesos; larger rooms 500 pesos. MC/V.) All establishments have pools.

Although expensive restaurants dominate the scene, Ajijic will not disappoint the budget traveler. For breakfast, coffee, and antojitos in a lush garden replete with exotic birds, try Cafe In Acálli 1, 16 de Septiembre 6A. (☎766 4859. Coffee 9 pesos. Regular and veggie burgers 15 pesos. Sandwiches 11 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm. Cash only.) Another cheap local favorite is Tepalo Restaurant 2, on Parroquia 10B at the plaza. Try the deep-fried shrimp sandwiches (40 pesos), fish filets (50 pesos) or enchilada plates (28 pesos). (☎766 0727. Open M-F 8am-5pm, Sa-Su 8am-6pm. Cash only.) The walls of Saint Peter’s 5, Hidalgo 17 off Colón, are studded with paintings, giving this upscale restaurant an art gallery vibe. Tapas (30 pesos) are served at the bar, and entrees run 90-115 pesos. (☎766 1919. Open M-Sa 1pm-midnight, Su 1-7:30pm. MC/V.) For organic, fair-trade coffee in a stylish setting, there’s Cafe Grano Cafe 1, Marcos Castellanos 15C, across from the church. (☎766 5684. Coffee 12 pesos, latte 19 pesos. Open M-Th 9am-2pm and 6-9pm, F-Su 9am-2pm and 5:30-9:30pm. Cash only.) At night, people of all ages head to the bar at Posada Ajijic, Morelos 1 on the laguna at Colón, which features live music Tu-F 7-11pm and Sa 9pm-1am. (☎766 0744. Beer 15 pesos. Tequila 40 pesos. Cover F-Sa 40 pesos. Open M-F noon-11pm, Sa noon-1am. MC/V.) Taberna de Garrik, at 16 de Septiembre #4, inside Hacienda Los Alcatraces, has live music on Saturdays from 8:30pm-1am. (☎766 5238. Cover 25 pesos. Open Th-Sa 5:30pm-1am. Cash only.)