Central Pacific Coast of Mexico Melaque

While vacationers flow into the beachfront hotels during December and the early spring, Melaque (pop. 12,000) sleeps for the rest of the year. A cool sea breeze over the golden beaches staves off what would otherwise be stifling heat, allowing for leisurely walks around the town and zócalo, quiet outdoor meals, and peaceful days on the beach.

Transportation. Melaque’s bus stations are side by side on Farías, the main drag parallel to the beach. From the bus station, turn left on Farías and walk two blocks to reach Mateos. Another left takes you to the plaza, a few blocks inland. Mateos and Hidalgo are the main cross-streets running toward the ocean. Autocamiones Cihuatlán (☎355 5003) offers second-class service. Primera Plus/Flecha Amarilla (☎355 6110) offers first- and executive-class service. The two are side by side at Farías 34. First-class service goes to: Guadalajara (5hr., 9 per day 9:15am-1:15pm, 242 pesos); Manzanillo (1hr., 8 per day 3am-8pm, 50 pesos); direct to Mexico City (5:15pm, 780 pesos); Tomatlán (2hr.; 5, 9pm; 103 pesos). Second-class service heads to: Guadalajara (6hr., every hr. 6:30am-10:30pm, 205 pesos); Manzanillo (1hr., every 30min. 5am-midnight, 41 pesos); Puerto Vallarta (5hr., 12 per day, 140 pesos); Tomatlán (3 hr., 3 per day, 90 pesos).

Practical Information. Banamex, on Farías across from the bus station, has a 24hr. ATM. (☎355 5277 or 5342. Open M-F 9am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm.) Exchange money or traveler’s checks at Casa de Cambio, Farías 27A, inside the commercial center across from the bus station. (☎355 5343. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-3pm.) Other services include: police, upstairs at Mateos 52, north of the plaza (☎355 5080 or 6090); Red Cross (☎355 2300), 15km away in Cihuatlán, accessible by the “Cruz Roja” bus (every 15min. 6am-8pm, 6 pesos) from the plaza, or by taxi (100 pesos); Superfarmacia Plaza, Mateos 48, on the southern side of the plaza (☎355 5167; open daily 8:30am-3pm and 6-11pm); Centro de Salud, Guzmán 11, left out of bus station on Farías for three blocks, then half a block to the left (☎355 5880); LADATEL phones on both Farías and Mateos; casetas, next to the bus station (☎355 6310; fax 355 5452; open M-Sa 8:30am-8:30pm, Su 8:30am-1pm); Internet access at Mundo Cibernetico, Guzmán 20, two blocks from the plaza (☎355 5061; 20 pesos per hr.; open daily 9am-2pm and 5-10pm); and the post office, Orozco 13, between Farías and Corona (☎355 5230; open M-F 8am-noon). Postal Code: 48980.

Accommodations And Food. Expensive beachfront hotels dominate the center of Melaque, but more affordable—though still pricey—options exist, clustering at the end of Farías. Rates rise during high season. Camping is feasible in Melaque if you arrange to stay next to one of the beachside restaurants. Expect to pay a small fee to the restaurant owner. Hotel Los Caracoles 5, Farías 26, offers a little luxury for a few more pesos. White stucco walls in the courtyard greet the visitor to gorgeous, immaculate rooms with fan, cable, bath, and large, soft beds. (☎355 7308; www.loscaracoles.com.mx. Reception 24hr. Singles 250 pesos; doubles 350 pesos; triples 450 pesos; quads 500 pesos; 8-bed bungalow with kitchenette 650 pesos. Call ahead in high season. MC/V.) The straw-thatched overhang of Casa Paula 4, Vallarta 6, leads to a courtyard alive with children, leafy greens, and a menagerie of random clutter. An odd paint scheme graces the medium-sized rooms, which come with refrigerator, fan, TV, and beautiful blue-tiled bathrooms. (☎355 5093. Reception 24hr. Rooms for 1-2 people 200 pesos; triples 250 pesos; quads 350 pesos. Cash only.) Bungalows los Arcos 4, Farías 2, charges similar prices. Take a right at the bus station and walk to the end of the street, and it’s on the left. Massive, spotless rooms come with fan, TV, A/C, and a cramped, private bath. Those tired of the saltwater should take advantage of the pool in the back courtyard. (☎355 5184. High season 1-3 people 400 pesos; quads 500 pesos. Low season singles 200 pesos; triples 350 pesos; quads 380 pesos; each additional person 50 pesos. Cash only.)

More traditional restaurants with antojitos and tacos are scattered around the plaza, while the ubiquitous straw-roofed seafood restaurants with cheap deck chairs cover the beach. Lonchería María Luisa 2, on Hidalgo, serves an incredible number of fruit concoctions of all flavors and consistencies. Sit on the high stool watching the blender while eating burritos (6 pesos) and other cheap staples. (☎355 6279. Jugos batidos 25 pesos. Hamburgers 25 pesos. Open daily 7am-11pm. Cash only.) Locals idle the time away at Restaurant Ayala 2. Turn left on Carrillo Puerto, the street before Mateos, and walk a block. Tasty fish (38 pesos) and burgers with fries (23 pesos) are hearty dinner options, while the eggs (23 pesos) and the comida corrida (25 pesos) are lighter options for earlier in the day. (☎355 6680. Open daily 8am-5pm.) Las Palmas 5, on the waterfront a few blocks towards the rock jetty, seats its patrons a stone’s throw away from the wake. Along with the view, it serves up shrimp and octopus (70 pesos) and enchiladas (40 pesos) as well as antojitos. (Beer 15 pesos. Open daily 9am-6pm. Cash only.)

Beaches And Entertainment. There is not much to do in Melaque except go to the beach. Toward the western end waves shrink and the beach becomes more crowded. Rent jet skis at Restaurant Moyo, the last restaurant on the far western end of the beach. (☎355 6104. 2- and 3-person jet skis 450 pesos per 30min. Small launches available 400 pesos per hr. Available daily 10am-5pm.) By night, people gather in the zócalo and drink beer or stroll casually along the shore. For a casual ambience with a young crowd, hit up Surfo’s Bar, Juárez 43 off the zócalo. Surfboards deck the walls and catchy Mexican rhythms set the mood. Pool available when the table’s open. (Beer 15 pesos. Mixed drinks 35 pesos. Open M and W-Su 8pm-2am. Cash only.) Caxcan, Mateos 48, overlooking the zócalo from above the pharmacy, offers cheap drinks along with a quiet view over the hum of conversation below. (2-for-1 drinks 30 pesos. Open daily 4pm-midnight. Cash only.) In general, don’t get your partying hopes up unless you come during December or Semana Santa, when the town fills with tourists—even then there are only a couple bars to satisfy the nightlife craving.