Central Pacific Coast of Mexico Barra De Navidad

Barra de Navidad (pop. 7000) is smaller than its sister Melaque, but it attracts more tourists and expats to its shaded streets, numerous sidewalk eateries, and popular seaside bars, giving it a concentrated energy conspicuously absent in Melaque. The quiet downtown area between the laguna and the sea offers little of anything except small restaurants, and once again the beaches and the fishing boats are the destinations of choice for locals and tourists alike.

Transportation. Veracruz, the main street, runs northwest-southeast, angling off its end to meet Legazpi, which runs north-south along the beach. The bus stop is at Veracruz 226, on the corner of Nayarit. Turn left on Veracruz from the bus station to get to the centro. Primera Plus/Costa Alegre, Veracruz 269 (☎355 6111), at Filipinas, has first-class service to: Guadalajara (5hr.; 6 per day 8am-6pm; 246 pesos); León (10hr., 8pm, 485 pesos); Manzanillo (1hr.; 11:30, 11:45am, 2:30, 7:45pm; 49 pesos); Mexico City (13hr., 5pm, 718 pesos). Second-class buses go to Guadalajara (6hr.; 8:30, 11:30am, 2:30pm; 205 pesos); Manzanillo (1hr.; 7 per day 7:15am-7:30pm; 41 pesos); and Puerto Vallarta (5hr., 7 per day, 145 pesos).

Practical Information. The tourist office, at Jalisco 67, offers brochures and photocopied, hand-drawn maps. (☎355 5100 or 8383. Open M-F 9am-5pm.) Barra has no bank, but there is a 24hr. ATM at Banamex, next to the police station. Cyber@Money, Veracruz 212C, exchanges money and traveler’s checks at high rates without commission. Internet access is 25 pesos per hr. (☎355 6177. Open M-F 9am-2pm and 4-7:30pm, Sa 9am-6:30pm.) Other services include: police, Veracruz 179 at the corner of Guanajuato (☎355 5398 or 5399); Centro de Salud, on Puerto de la Navidad down Veracruz, just out of town (take a right where a traffic island divides Veracruz; ☎355 6220; 24hr. emergency service); there are no casetas, but LADATEL phones line the main streets; and the post office, on Veracruz at the plaza (open M-F 8am-noon). Postal Code: 48987.

Accommodations And Food. Lodgings in Barra are nicer, cheaper and cleaner than they are in Melaque. All prices are subject to high-season hikes. Posada Pacífico 3, Mazatlán 136, has a walkway overlooking the garden, which gives it the feel of a villa. Big rooms comes with fan and clean bath. (☎355 5359; fax 355 5349. Boogie board rentals 30 pesos. Reception 24hr. Singles 180 pesos; doubles 280 pesos; triples 320 pesos. Cash only.) The best bargain in town is Casa de Huéspedes Mamá Loya 1, Veracruz 69. Blue tile saturating the lobby gives it a smooth Mediterranean ambience. Simple, spotless rooms come with fan a soft bed, and clean white bath. (Reception 24hr. Singles 100 pesos; doubles 150 pesos. Cash only.) Hotel Caribe 2, Sonora 15, has simple rooms with big blue bath and fan. The fountain in the courtyard is surrounded by massive hanging potted plants. (☎355 5952. Singles 150 pesos, with TV 200 pesos; doubles 200/250 pesos. Cash only.) Hotel Jalisco 3, Jalisco 81, offers bike rentals in addition to its rooms with TV, fan, and slightly battered wooden furniture. Balconies offer a view overlooking the quiet streets. (☎355 8505. Bike rental 20 pesos per hr., 100 pesos per day. Reception 24hr. Singles 150 pesos; doubles 200 pesos; triples 250 pesos. Cash only.) It’s illegal to camp in Barra de Navidad: if you brought a tent, try Melaque.

Barra doesn’t offer too much culinary variety. Restaurant Bar Ramon 5, Legazpi 260, is a classy, brick-bordered joint with a semi-formal evening ambience. Consider the fisherman’s box lunch (50 pesos) if you’re going out to sea the next day. (☎355 6435. Beer 15 pesos. Seafood entrees 75-95 pesos. Open daily 7am-11pm. Cash only.) For tasty, inexpensive Mexican food in a pleasant atmosphere, Restaurant Paty 2, Jalisco 52 at Veracruz, is the place to be. The breakfast special is just 35 pesos, and there are vegetarian options. (Beer 15 pesos. Antojitos 35-45 pesos. Quesadillas 40 pesos. Meat dishes 40-45 pesos. Open daily 8am-11pm.) Felix’ Bar 4, Jalisco 48, attracts talkative old American expats to its relaxed outdoor seating. Sandwiches and chimichangas (40 pesos) are plentiful and tasty. (Beer 15 pesos. Open daily 8am-11pm. Cash only.)

Beaches And Outdoor Activities. Fishermen are available to ferry you to nearby destinations. They’ll wait as you eat in the rustic farming atmosphere of Colimilla, across the lagoon. (200 pesos for an indefinite restaurant stay for up to 10 people; 150 pesos otherwise.) Deserted Playa de los Cocos, 1km away, has larger breakers than those in Barra. Continue on to Playa Viejo, further past Cocos. If you don’t want to swim back, remember to set a time to be picked up. 600 pesos round-trip for up to 10 people. Other trips include snorkeling off Tenacatita (2500 pesos for 10 people); Isla de Navidad (150 pesos, 10 people); Tamarindo bay (1500 pesos, 10 people); or a 7hr. fishing/snorkeling trip (2500 pesos, 10 people). To arrange any of these, head down during the day to the Sociedad Cooperativa de Servicios Turísticos, on Legazpi on the lagoon. Ask about discounts—individual fishermen are likely to give them, especially for groups. You can also charter your own fishing boat at Mary Chuy Fishing Charters. Six hour trips for groups ranging from 4-14 persons cost 3000, 5500, and 6500 pesos, respectively, for the three boat sizes. (☎355 5416. Open daily 7am-7pm.) If you want to skip the expensive tours, ask around town at hotels and bait shops for fishing equipment and boogie board rentals.

Entertainment. While Barra de Navidad positively pulses during December and the Mexican vacation months, it has a small but quality selection of bars and nightspots during the low season. Trendy Sea Master, Legazpi 146, plays host to an equally trendy clientele that populate its funky plush chairs. Orange lighting, modern art, and music set the mood, as does the gorgeous ocean overlook. (☎355 8216. Beer 10 pesos. Mixed drinks 40-50 pesos. Happy hour with 2-for-1 drinks 3-9pm. Open daily 6pm-1am. MC/V.) For an earthier atmosphere, try Jarro Video Bar, on Legazpi next to the fishing co-op, featuring pumping dance music, big screen TV, pool table, plush chairs, and vulgar witticisms painted on the walls. (☎355 5540. Beer 15 pesos. Mixed drinks 40 pesos. Open M-Th and Su 9pm-1am, F-Sa 9am-4pm. Cash only.) Various establishments along Legazpi offer 2-for-1 Happy hours that make the giddy trip toward inebriation that much cheaper. At Terrace Capri, on Legazpi across from the church, hit the dance floor or relax with a drink while watching the waves. Perhaps you’ll be lucky enough to see a stunning sunset. (☎355 5217. Beer 20 pesos. Mixed drinks 40 pesos. 2-for-1 drinks during Happy hour 6-9pm. Open daily 5pm-2am.)