Hawera Overview

Since its 1884 founding, tiny Hawera (pop. 8500), meaning “the scorched place” in Maori, has suffered four devastating fires. It is the heifer, however, not the phoenix, that has risen from the ashes. Today, Hawera’s tourism industry relies almost solely upon the dairy industry, offering farmstays and education at Dairyland for travelers eager to experience Taranaki’s rural life.

Transportation. The bus station is at the base of the water tower and is the point of departure for InterCity, which leaves daily for New Plymouth (1hr., 2-3 per day, $19) and Wanganui (1hr., 2-3 per day, $21), with continuing service to Palmerston North (3hr., $30) or Wellington (5hr., $48). Dalroy Express (☎759 0197 or 0508 465 622) heads to Auckland (6hr., 1 per day, $65) via New Plymouth (1hr., $13) and Hamilton (5hr., $44). The White Star (☎758 3338) goes to New Plymouth ($15) and Wellington ($36). Hawera Taxis (24hr. ☎0800 278 7171) has a stand on Victoria St. near High St. While Let’s Go doesn’t recommend hitchhiking, hitchers often find a ride on High St. between Argyle and Albion St. or at the junction of SH3 and SH45 (South and Waihi Rd.). Most cars head to New Plymouth or Wanganui via SH3; hitchhiking to the coastal beach communities of western Taranaki along SH45 can be more difficult.

Orientation And Practical Information. The main drag through town is High Street. At the west end of High St., Waihi Road (SH3) is the primary northern route to New Plymouth. Parallel to High St., South Road becomes the coastal route to New Plymouth (SH45) heading west and to Wanganui (SH3) heading east. The South Taranaki i-Site, 55 High St., is located at the base of the water tower and sells DOC hut passes for area tracks. (☎278 8599; visitorinfo@stdc.govt.nz. Open M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-4pm.) Other services include: ATMs and banks along High St.; the police on Princes St. (☎278 0260); the hospital on Hunter St., off Waihi Rd. (☎278 7109); Internet access at Hawera Library, 46 High St. ($4 per hr.; open M, W-Th 8:30am-5:30pm, Tu 9:30am-5:30pm, F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm); the post office, 162 High St., in Paperplus (☎278 7197; open M-F 8am-5:15pm, Sa-Su 9am-4pm).

Accommodations And Camping. Fifth-generation farm and entrepreneur Gary Ogle gives backpackers hands-on experience at the The Wheatly Downs Farmstay (BBH) 2, 7km out of town on Ararata Rd. To get there on your own, head to the Tawhiti Museum, and continue 3km on Ararata Rd. Enjoy views of Mt. Taranaki from the front lawn, take a dive in the lake, or ask about flights around the mountain. (☎278 6523; www.taranaki-bakpak.co.nz. Linen $5. Book in advance. Dorms $25; singles $38; doubles $55, with bath $85. Tent sites $12.) For those not quite ready for an encounter with nature, King Edward Park Motor Camp 1, 70 Waihi Rd., reigns over a kingdom of communal showers, kitchens, and toilets. (☎278 8544. Linen $3. Tent sites $8 per person, powered $9. 2-person cinderblock cabins from $28, 4-person $48, $10 per extra person; 2-person caravans $20, $10 per extra person. Cash only.)

Food And Nightlife. If you don’t mind eating off the floor, Morrieson’s Cafe and Bar 2, 60 Victoria St., might work for you. The tables here are floorboards from the demolished home of local novelist Ronald Hugh Morrieson (1922-68). The menu features a medley of delectable mains ($13-21) and traditional brews for $3.60. (☎278 5647. Open M-F 11am-1am, Sa-Su 9:30am-10:30pm.) Though the name may conjure images of a smoky dive, Rough Habits Sports Bar and Cafe 3, 79-81 Regent St., has a well-groomed look. Try one of the light meals ($9.50-15) and wash it down with a $3.50 handle. (☎278 7333. Open daily 11am-late. Kitchen closes around 10pm.) For a “kwik” bite, Kreative Kebabs 1, 135 High St., offers savory kebabs ($6-10), burgers ($4.50-9), and more. (☎278 5552. Open Tu-Sa 11am-8:30pm, Su 4-8pm.) Buy groceries at Countdown, at the corner of Union and Nelson St. (☎278 0026. Open daily 7am-11pm.)

Sights And Outdoor Activities. The decaying water tower, a response to Hawera’s frequent fires, is the most prominent landmark in town. Climb its prison-like structure for views of Mt. Taranaki, the coast, and acres of dairy farmland. (Open daily 10am-2pm. $2.) Nigel Ogle’s Tawhiti Museum, near the corner of Ohangi and Tawhiti Rd., displays his subtle sense of humor and surprisingly realistic fiberglass figures encased in dioramas. (☎278 6837; www.tawhitimuseum.co.nz. Open M and F-Su 10am-4pm; Jan. daily; Jun.-Aug. Su only. $10.) For a taste of Maori history, Turuturu Mokai, 2km northeast of town off SH3 on Turuturu Rd., displays the scant remains of a 400-year-old Maori fortress. Use the Hawerea i-Site brochure as the key to the historic kingdom as there are very few signs explaining the otherwise rock-riddled field. Fans of the King will rejoice at Kevin D. Wasley’s garage-turned-Elvis Presley Memorial Record Room, 51 Argyle St. Although the King himself is not in the building, you can feast your eyes on a collection of rare recordings, valuable memorabilia, and even Wasley’s own Elvis-esque haircut. (☎027 498 2942; www.digitalus.co.nz/elvis. Visits by appointment only. Donation recommended.)

The closest Hawera gets to extreme sports is Dam Dropping. Plunge over an 8m dam, followed by 3hr. of “whitewater sledding” on the nearby Waigongoro River. (☎0800 338 736; www.damdrop.com. 1hr. $70, 3hr. $89. Book ahead.)